Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2001 - Engine And Computer Is Dead
Jun 26, 2015
I'm posting as a last ditch effort to try and rescue my 2001 Vw golf here's some quick details about the car then I'll go into the situation.
2001 Golf 1.8t 5speed
Euro customs stage 2 Aftermarket intake and downpipe
Still have front and rear O2 sensor and probably cat. Maybe..
Otherwise stock
201k miles
Okay so pretty much here's the rundown.. I was driving my car to work one day, then all the sudden lost complete throttle response to my car but was about to cruise at about 5-8mph to get to work and avoid towing. What is going on besides the EPC light was on and CEL was on. After work I discovered that the rear O2 sensor was hanging down and frayed.
Apparently from what I was told, that fries your ecu and put the car into a similar mode as mine. I then replaced the ecu with the euro customs ecu, I replaced the throttle pedal, and the throttle body since all I was getting was throttle codes. I am still not able to get rid of either EPC or CEL lights. The codes showing are p0638 and p2101. Yes I have tried to get the throttle body realigned or whatever you call it. However the vag com will not let you realign with the codes still in the computer which have been deleted but come back immediately.
The rear O2 is still unplugged and I still have little to no throttle response.
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2001 1.8T Wolfsburg
Started it this evening and went to the store, on my way there the car was right messed up. No lights, wouldn't go over 500 rpm (no throttle response), eventually was stuck on the side of the road. Reset my throttle back to OEM and everything went back to normal, car hasn't shown any trouble since but it's only been a couple hours. I don't want to end up stranded somewhere so I'm wondering if my computer is possibly failing or should I try replacing the throttle body if it does it again?
Car is not chipped and was OEM throttle before (to my knowledge).
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I am absolutely stumped and so are two mechanics I've been to. Randomly when I go to start the car the battery is so dead it won't start. Car is an AWD 2001 1.8T Jetta.
Replaced battery and alternator at my regular mechanic, all ground wires look great and couldn't find any shorts. There is a 11 Amp draw from my battery, took it to a shop that specializes in VW/Audi and they hooked it up to Vagcom and it showed absolutely nothing wrong. He left the meter hooked up and pulled every single fuse in the car and there was only like a 0.01 drop, nothing significant. When he went to take my car out of the shop, wouldn't start. So he put a battery pack on it, still wouldn't start. Took off both terminals on the battery, put them back on, put on the battery pack, and car started.
The aftermarket deck in it is just a JVC single din, doesn't seem to have any issues.
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I have an 01' 1.8 t. We had a Pioneer touch screen Bluetooth deck installed and it was fine for months. All of a sudden it started having battery problems. If it sat for 6+ hours it was dead. We got a new battery from pep boys and once again it was fine for months. They tested my charging system and all components and everything was good. Then it started dying again. We'd charge it and after about 10-20 min it would start. Now the sit time is sporadic, sometimes it will sit all day and start right up and sometimes it sits for 10 min and won't start. Now its not taking a charge. We've once again checked the terminals, charging system, alt. Etc. And its all good. I don't know if it has anything to do with the stereo. We've checked all the wiring and its how it should be, I'm at a loss with this car. It occasionally throws a check engine light but we've hooked up the OBD and there's no codes. When I run the ac the car acts super sketchy, and starts throwing lights. (Brakes, air bag, wipers, engine, asr, doors). Fuses checked out all good, we haven't been able to find a single diagnostic explaining wtf is going on. I love my car too much to give up on her.
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is locking in 4m but is too high, suppose to be ~2200rpm.When I checked with vagcom the speed shown on computer show a speed with 20km/h higher than the real speed (shown at speedometer)
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I putting a bit newer engine in my truck. from what I know there have been few changes in the middle of 1999. Do I need to replace the computers too or are they the same. what about the wiring harness.
My truck : 1999 (11/1998 production date) 7.3, zf6 trans, 1 alternator, 315k
Donor truck : 2001 7.3, zf6, dual alternator, 110k
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My girlfriend's mk4 Jetta is having some sort of electrical issue and she's about ready to sell it. It keeps going dead after sitting. We got her a new battery a few months ago after she bought the car because it kept going dead. So it ran fine for a bit then started doing it again. Tested alternator, checks out, tested battery, bad battery, took it to local vw specialist, they confirmed bad battery, so two weeks ago, we had a new battery put in. Ran fine for a week then started going dead again. All lights turn on, just a weird clicking noise coming from inside the cabin. She also has an hid kit in it that was just redone by a different shop here. 1.8t motor.
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I have a 2001 1.8t beetle and doing some research to buy parts I came across two different engine codes. My trunk says I have a AWV engine but the cylinder head says AWM. This is really confusing as looking them up I get three entirely different options for this car.
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I recently traded my mk1 for a 2001 jetta vr6 and though it was running fine the first few days, it now seems to die when the engine heats up. The check engine light and battery light turn on when it dies but turn back off when it cools down. I ruled out the battery variable by getting a brand new one (old one was 5 years old anyway) and the alternator is reading healthy voltages.
I've seen a lot about the crank position sensor (engine speed sensor) and I suspected that was my problem so I took it to an auto parts store and waited for it to die to pull the codes. The codes were P0201, P0205, P0203, P0206, P0444, P1473(?), P0418, and P0413.
The first ones said "fuel injector open circuit" and the others were all saying something about the evap system. I was wondering if these codes related to the crank position sensor or if there's something else I need to worry about. I may have stepped a little bit out of my league with this car and I'm at a dead end.
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2001 Jetta GL, 2.0L, 170k miles.... It won't start and it's not likely the fuel pump. After the car has sat for a while, I hear the fuel pump spin up when I open the door. It turns over just fine. I pulled a spark plug, attached it back to the wire, held it close to the head, and when the engine turned over, no spark. Is that still a valid test for spark? I haven't had to diagnose a spark issue for so many years, I don't know whether that has changed.
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Engine will overheat unless I turn the AC on. The engine fan only operates with the ac on it seems.
Will not overheat unless in traffic for a while.
Would it be radiator thermo switch or the Fan Control Module?
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So, my brother has an 01' VW Jetta 2.8 VR6 with a 120k miles on it. He was recently driving around 50mph when the engine cut out, he lost all power and all the lights on the dash came on. He didn't get any loud bang when it happened, it just cut out. He tried to restart the car but heard the starter try and nothing else.
He got it towed to a garage who said they suspected it might be a timing chain but they couldn't say for sure until they started poking around. He doesn't recall getting the loud "marbles in an" noise when the chain is about to go. They were quoting around $4k to replace the engine. Being as my brother is a poor student this isn't something he can do, plus he'd already replaced the radiator, tires and all that and I want to verify what is wrong with it.
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So pretty recently the battery in my MK4 GTI went bad and when I put in a new one everything went back to normal except for my radio. The stereo doesn't turn on at all, no power goes too it period. The security light doesn't blink, the buttons don't light up when I switch on my headlights. It didn't ask for a radio security code or anything. I'm not sure how to troubleshoot or what to do at all and when I asked my local stereo shop to fix it they informed me that it would cost $70 an hour for them to "investigate".
I have the stock premium Monsoon radio, the typical double DIN one. Before I changed the battery I tried jumping it and all it did was heat up the jumper cables, not sure if that blew the fuse in the radio.
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The issue: Check engine light on. Codes pulled, and he's getting O2 sensor codes (aftermarket exhaust has caused that since he bought the car) and 17705 Pressure Drop Between Turbo and Throttle Valve. The car barely accelerates, and you can hear the turbo spooling, and the engine has small surges. I had VCDS going and went for a drive and noticed his N75 Valve duty cycle was stuck at 5.1% no matter what throttle position he was in. So we're going to the wreckers this afternoon and will pull an N75 valve? The DV is stock and appears to be in good condition, but if changing the N75 doesn't work then that's the next spot I'll look.
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My girlfriend has a jetta and I work at a DODGE dealership in service. I recently replaced the water pump and flushed the coolant twice and replaced the coolant with G13 coolant from the local VW dealership. After I finished burping the coolant system of air bubble. After I finished I took it for a spin and being the speed demon I am, I don't hold back on the throttle. I noticed immediately the engine lagging and being extremely sluggish. I ran my shops snap on code scanner on it and I came up with cylinder 1 fuel injector open circuit. Cylinder 6 fuel injector limited power. And last but not least o2 sensor 1 open circuit. If your facing the motor I undid the left motor mount from the frame, lifted the car on a hoist and took the bottom side motor mount off of the motor. I took the cv shaft off of the transmission and lowered the car and jacked the motor up by the oil pan to expose the water pump for removal and replacement. I'm wondering if possibly the o2 sensor could cause the ECU to seize power to two of the cylinders to ensure no engine damage or if its 3 separate problems.
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So my gf's check engine light on her 01 Golf flashes once in a while, and it misfires. But the thing is, it doesn't stay on, and it's once in a while (like once or twice a week). She has new spark plugs, and new wires. I have a feeling it's the coil pack, but I really don't know if it needs to be replaced until the check engine light actually stays on.
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Just a few days ago I was driving and I noticed as I went over 35 mph my car would stutter and the check engine light would start flashing. And when I slowed back down the car drove fine. I'm wondering what the problem could be? Feels like the car is losing power. Car is currently at 119k miles.
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I've had this car for awhile now and it's always had this weird whining sound coming from the engine.I had the transmission serviced thinking maybe that was the sound and it wasn't. I've taken off the serpentine belt and spun all the pulleys. I can't figure it out, I'm thinking maybe timing chain but I'm not sure.
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Is my screen fried? Cold weather came in and the screen died and the fuel icon showed up... Even tho I recheck if the guy lid is open...
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01 jetta vr6 5 speed. Alright so earlier today I pulled out the driveway. (Hard) was in 1st gear around 3 or 4 grand and I stomped it. Got to 6 grand and hit 2nd. Took 2nd to 6 grand and let of around 60 mph. After that I short shifted into 3rd, 4th, then 5th. I noticed going into fith was hard. Had kinda rev match to get it. I stayed in 5th till I got to my destination roughly 4 miles. When I came back out to leave I had a hell of a time getting it into reverse. On my way home it was extremely hard to shift and now when the car is running I cant get it into any gear. This is what I did.
Car shifts fine with car off.
Car will not shift with engine running.
When started in gear with clutch depressed I can still let the clutch out and stall the car.
When starting car while in gear with the clutch NOT DEPRESSED the car jumps forward.
I can figure it out ove tried re adjusting the linkage. Nothing.
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I have an '01 gti glx that I just swapped a motor into. I got the motor out of an '01 jetta glx, exact match AFP engine code.
I get cylinder 2 misfires mostly (high number) but I also get 5 and 6 intermittently as well as a P0300 code.
Sometimes I also need to hold the gas down just to get it to start even after the crank sensor.
The engine idles sometimes at 600 rpm but drops and nearly stalls after revving at all.
What I've tried so far:
working cam sensor from my old vr
brand new crank sensor
brand ned wires/plugs
new fuel filter
swapped injectors of misfiring cylinders from old motor
lined up the timing 3 times now and its still perfect
I know the coil pack works because it was on my old motor, which ran fine, just leaked oil.
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