Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2001 - Random Door Locking / Window Appears Crooked
Jul 27, 2016
I recently picked up a 2001 MK4 jetta and Have some issues with door locks. Upon searching I'm thinking I may have a faulty door lock module.
Symptoms are that the doors will randomly lock for no reason when I unlock the door and sit inside for a min or two. PO broke the drivers armrest control and glued them in place and I think some glue seeped into the lock button as it is very stiff and no longer works. Going to replace the door card and controls but wondering if the problem may be due to typical burnt out soldering points?
For my window issue, passenger window appears to possibly be crooked in the window clips as it stops 3/4 of the way up and will reverse back down as if stuck. I have to keep pressing it to get it to go up. Does this sound like typical broken clips and glass is about to fall? Would I just undo clips and reattach?
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Just got the girlfriend a 2002 Santa Fe and the front passenger door locking is a bit random! Sometimes it unlocks and unlocks ok from the key in the drivers door or the lock/unlock buttons, other times it half locks / unlocks (the lock button on the door panel half moves!) and other times it just ignores me all together! The cabling and cable boot from the body to the door seems in good condition (my audi A4 had that problem and you really dont wanna know about the wiring nightmare i had to fix that!!! bloody Germans!!). My feeling is that its a worn actuator.
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2001 Jetta 2.0, manual trans
I've been having problems with intermittent P0420 cat below efficiency code. Everything else is fine, no codes, runs great. I tried spacing the post cat sensor back w/ extender bung (after replacing post cat sensor..) and still get the code. I don't hear any rattling or anything to make me think cat is bad physically. I was told by dealer that a code update might resolve for $200 - which got me thinking that that if that was so, it should should be a problem which Feds should be aware.
I searched safercar.gov and found this NHTSA ID Number: 10054864
It's a service bulletin saying that VW made the limits too sensitive and it seems there was a customer satisfaction campaign to update code - pdf on site CSC-10054864-8736
It says:
May 2007
Subject: Emissions Service Action N7
1999-2002 Jetta, Golf and GTI with VR6 Engine
Update Electronic Control Module (ECM) Software for Catalytic Converter Monitoring System Dear Volkswagen Owner: We are writing to inform you of an emissions service action on some 1999-2002 Jetta, Golf and GTI VR6 engine vehicles. Our records show that you are the owner of one of these vehicles.
What Is The Problem? The electronic control module (ECM) software for the catalytic converter monitoring system is too sensitive. This can cause the MIL to come on, and some vehicles may exceed Federal and/or California emissions standards. Also, in some cases this leads to unnecessary catalytic converter replacement. What Will Volkswagen Do? Dealers will update the ECM software.
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My key when I press the button will lock all of the doors except the drivers door, I can still lock the drivers door, but only if i put my key in the lock and do it manually. I know on my brothers 02 golf gls it would lock all of the doors with the button on the key.
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Was tinkering on my car this morning, and at first noticed one side had a bigger gap than the other. Ok, I really need to change strut mount bushings, no big deal. Then I actually looked closer, and they both have some lean to them, but the drivers side is much more than the other one. Is this normal? I've never noticed any play in control arm bushings or anything. So what could be causing this? I would assume they are meant to sit flat but maybe not?
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My jetta. It is a 2001 2.0. I was wondering how to get the car to "Beep" after you lock the car. The car has never done it since I bought it...The trunk is closed so i know that is not the reason....what are some other reasons that would cause me to lose that friendly beep?
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My drivers door glass fell into the door while driving - took it to an auto glass store they want to charge me $200 to fix. I figured for that price I can buy parts needed and make the repair myself. what do I need to buy to get this working properly again?
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Our 2001 Prius has recently been having problems with the steering wheel locking (not in a position where this would be normal/expected, but in random positions--takes several minutes of wiggling and turning the car on and off to get it unlocked) and the key getting stuck in the ignition (just as if the car weren't in park, except that it is). They might be unrelated, but started occurring at the same time.
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I have a 99 Jetta mk4 and the factory alarm appears to be draining the battery. If the car sits for more than a day with the alarm set the battery light will come on.
If I don't set the alarm it seems ok. I assume it is something with the alarm but I realize there could be some other issues contributing. For example there is a light on the radio that blinks. It obviously uses some power.
I have 3 specific questions.
1. Where is the alarm located and if I disconnect it will is screw up other things? i.e. will the car start and run. Will the remote keys work etc.?
2. Is is possible for ME to disable the auto door look feature. The manual says take it to the dealer but is there a switch or similar that I can access on my own?
3. What is a good battery that people recommend in this size? I noticed the oem factory battery is 575 CCA and I have seen replacements as high as 650 CCA..
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After being all over the map, MK4 to MK5 to MK6 to Corrado to MK2 to MK6 and now back to the MK4 I am back! Long ago, almost 10 years I built a 2001 GTI VR6 turbo that I absolutely loved, but college funds forced that sale. Driving just about everything I have always wanted another 12v to play with, but they are getting harder to find that are not totally molested.
Anyways, I came across a 2001 Jetta VR6, one owner car, 100% un touched, all maintenance records, and only 79,000 miles! I had to buy it. Only a couple minor dings in the passenger door I will mend out down the road, otherwise the car is darn near mint condition.
Engine Plans:
Kinetic Manifold
Precision 6262 T4 .81
C2 # 630cc fueling
9:1
Flipside Short runner
FX400
Interior:
Full R32 seating, steering wheel, pedals (I saved this in storage in case I were to buy another MK4, glad I did!)
Maybe suede headliner/pillars
Exterior:
Bora-R front, GLI side skirts, Votex rear if I can find a nice OEM one somewhere
Undecided on Brakes/wheels/suspension, I want the car drivable, to go enjoy some canyon ripping up here in the Rocky Mountains. This car will not be slammed down just to destroy the geometry and make for a poor handling car while ruining fenders and body work
Anyways, some quick pictures for me to reference where it all started, nothing special, again only 79k on the ODO, she is CLEAN
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2001 golf interior lights don't come on if any door opens, car doesn't recognize any of the doors to be open on the dash. I read it could be bad door lock modules, but does that happen to all 4 or could it be an electrical issue?
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I have an accent 2001 saloon which I bought a few months back. Turned out to be a real bargain but the door locking feature is really irritating. It will work 2-3 times in a row then stop for the rest of the day. The next day it works first thing but may not work again for several hours. Then 2-3 times in a row .. yeah you guessed it - the dreaded intermittent fault.
Now, the door handle inside the door has broken (plastic piece has snapped) so I am fitting a new one. Thought it might be a good idea, while I am at it, to have a look inside the door. I took out the whole door lock mechanism - see photo 1. Having found I could get it out, I put it back pending a bit of advice.
I presume that there is some sort of electric-powered actuator or solenoid or whatever, that locks all the doors from the drivers side. Is the piece I am talking about, the close up in photo 2?
If so, (or not) what is the likely fault here, and what can I do about it? I have put some WD 40 spray into the locks and eased them a bit. Otherwise not sure what to change/replace.
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I have a 2003 base toyota prius. You can lock all the car doors from the drivers side or from the passenger's side. I did that today and left then had to get something from my car about 15minutes later. When I pushed the lock to open the other 3 locks for the other 3 doors they won't open. Only the driver;s side will open. When I pushed the lock to open/close all the car doors on the passengers side only the driver's side would open/close. I thought maybe I hit the child safety lock so I pushed it but it still wouldn't open the other doors even though all the windows roll up and down from the drivers side and from the actual doors they are on. What is wrong with my locks? Did I accidentally push teething and how can I get it fixed??!!
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I have a sante fe which has problems (suspect multiple) with central locking , intermittently locking itself - very annoying - even driving down the road.
Drivers door controls for central locking unlock button does not unlock the doors - button just doesn't do anything. Lock button works fine. In addition window controls on drivers door dont work - only control that works is the one for the drivers door.
Final piece of the puzzle - the red light in the drivers door does not work either nor does the drivers door button panels light up. Starting to wonder is there a fuse or quirky power supply problem somewhere.
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Starting a few days ago both of my key FOBs stopped locking the car. They both can still unlock the car and open the trunk, but they cannot lock the car. However the doors can still be locked from the button inside the door. From that I know the locking mechanisms aren't broken so it must be something electronic. What could be causing this?
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I have noticed as it gets colder, my car rattles more. I keep hearing random rattles, mainly in the door panels. Looking for remedy apart from going up to the dealership?
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00 Golf GTI MkIV 1.8T
key fob worked when i first got car a few months ago, previous owner wanted strereo so changed stereo now key fob doesnt work,
Tried so far: removed Car battery for 10 mins Checked all relevant Fuses Used VAG - Com to check Qty of Keys programmed = correct Used VAC COM to re-sync key. Car signlaed a beep to show correct programming Used VAG com to inspect convenience model, No faults found. Used VAG com to measure sensor, this displays a 1 or 0 dependant on which button is pushed,
Notes Central Locking works from Key in door and via internal push button. Dead locking works if u use key in door twice - alarm arms if Car is dead locked and unlocked with Key in door, the Alarm sounds, I have to put key in ignition and quarter turn to disarm. So in summary It would apear Central locking works as does the key as does the sensor. What else can i try?
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I have a 01 wolfsburg jetta with aw engine code .. I have replaced and gaped spark plugs all 4 coils , DV. As well as fuel filter . Sometimes it runs fine . It misfire at random times most often at WOT. ..and I've noticed almost always when fuel level is low.. installed a boost gauge .. after disconnecting battery to reset ecu it boosts 10psi and runs strong .. however 1 or 2 WOT and it will misfire and then I won't boost over 4-5 PSI .. worst of all I get no CEL not even blinking .. I have also located a leak in the brake booster line . Does this affect it at all? ..
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My girlfriend's 2005 Jetta has started intermittently leaving its lights on after she locks the car. It seems to happen with the fob OR with the keys in the lock. It started a few weeks ago with just the left rear turn signal. Now it is starting to do all four corners and the repeater on the front fenders.
The lights don't blink, they stay on solid usually after doing the normal "lock blink" and noise. This obviously drains the battery so we've had to jump it a few times.
How to fix this? To me it is obviously something electronic, but I didn't know if I should look to replace relays/fuses/wires/etc.
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It all started a few months ago.... I started my car, and it started noticeably misfiring, CEL flashing and everything. I scanned it with my vagcom and it came up Cylinder 1 Misfire and Random Multiple misfire. I popped the hood, made sure everything was seated correctly, and shrugged.
Ordered some new wires for it, since it had 80k miles on it with original wires, I figured why not. The misfire didn't come back.
A few weeks later, same thing happened. Misfires, flashing CEL, same codes. I ended up driving it the 5 minutes to work anyways and figured I'd look at it later after I got off.
8 hours later I started it up again, ran like a champ, no CEL on. The problem didn't come up again for 3-4 weeks.
So now, without fail, every month or so, I'll get the same issue. It doesn't matter if it's raining or sunny or cold or warm. But if I let it sit for a few hours, it'll act like it never happened.
Now, I haven't replaced the coil pack yet, simply because it doesn't sound like a coil problem, but I might do it just for the hell of it. New plugs and wires have already been done.
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Replaced my water pump March 2nd using the "From Below" method. Started the car after and the check engine light was on and water pump was no longer leaking. I drove the GTI to Advance (15 Mins away) it drove fine and I pulled two codes.
P0300 - Random Multiple/Cylinder Misfire
P0301 - Cylinder 1 Misfire
The car pulled and drove normally. The next day the car is misfiring badly. Hesitation and bucks when accelerating until roughly 3k then smooths out.
I will swap my coilpacks and check if the misfire moves as soon as I can get my hands on an OBD2 Scan Tool.
From what I understand about the VR6 :
-The water pump runs off the serpentine belt
-Camshaft timing is controlled by the timing chain.
-Timing chain is not affected by the serpentine belt/pulleys.
Questions :
-Can turning the Crankshaft Pulley affect timing?
-Can that be the cause of the misfire?
24V VR6
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