Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2004 GTI VR6 24V With Codes P0016 And P0018 Now No Start
Nov 19, 2014
I have been driving my car with a known P0016 and P0018 codes for quite a while. I know, I know.... Car was not worth sinking a lot of money into so we decided to run it till it died. It has run great for about a year but now it finally has problems. Day before it ran great. First thing in the morning it tried to start and then stalled. It will try and start and putt, putt two or three times and die. I think it has jumped timing. Before I trash it I would like to make sure that is the problem. My question is, can I check for a jumped timing chain at home without doing a major disassembly? I don't have access to a VAGCOM. If that is what happened I will get rid of it and move on but I would like to verify that is really what happened. There is no valve clatter so I don't think it jumped enough to damage the heads.
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Replaced my Crankshaft position sensor and cleared my codes but I'm still getting a P0016 and P0018 error. Car runs fine at the moment. Can't smog and therefore register it till I figure it out. Next step is replacing the Camshaft position sensor.
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My mechanic (also my Brother - certified dodge mechanic) says he might have put timing belt in backwards (as in the side that is supposed to be facing left, is facing right and vice versa). I dont want him to have to do the whole job over again unnecessarily.
I do have the codes P0016, P0018 (Camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position sensor correlation) and of course a check engine light. Otherwise the vehicle is running great, no timing issues that I can notice.
This is a 2006 GX470 4.7L V8 2UZ-FE engine.
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Yesterday I purchased an 04 Jetta 2.0 with 179k. It was super cheap and pretty clean. Needs work but I bought it to fix it and daily it. Anyway. When I initially went to look at the car, It started right up. after test driving it, I turned it off to make a deal with the guy. Then started it back up to pull on the trailer. Towed it home, Started right up again to get off the trailer. All was good.
This morning I go out, scan the codes (with an obdII scanner, not vag-com), get the codes, then erase them. Just to get a fresh start at the issues. I go to start the car, and it wont start. Turns over but doesn't fire. Could erasing the codes have done something?
Here's the codes that popped up in case they're important to this situation. P0043, P0102, P3081, P0113. I did scan the codes again after I erased them and it wouldn't start. P0043 is still there.
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I just bought a 2007 f250 5.4 V8. It has the codes P0018, P061b, and P2106. The truck seems to run fine but has the codes. Tried clearing but they came back. Also, there's a small howl sound in the rear end. What a solution may be.
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Throwing 2 codes -
P0172: too rich
P1176: post cat 02 reached limit
Last time it turned on it had horrible air flow, it felt as though it was choking. definitely not a misfire. occasionally after spirited driving the engine would die after I came to a complete stop then worsened to cutting off when I put the clutch in at high rpms. also have a slight loss of power. I also recently added a 3" tbe and changed coil packs.
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I was driving down the road when my car (02 GTI 12v VR6) suddenly died. I pulled off and tried to restart it. It sounded weird, kind of metallic like maybe the clutch went out. It seemed to be firing, but would not turn over so I stopped trying for fear of damaging something. I thought the timing chain may have come loose, however I didn't hear anything catastrophic like valves breaking so if that's the case then hopefully it only jumped a tooth or two. I scanned it and a bunch of codes came back. I did have the battery out for a while before scanning so I'm not sure if some of the Central Convenience codes are due to that or not.
Here's the full scan:
VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-S
Chassis Type: 1J - VW G/J/B Mk4
Scan: 01,02,03,08,16,15,17,19,22,35,46,56
[Code] .....
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Bought a 2004 Jetta GLI about two weeks ago. Has 80,100 miles. Ran great for about the first week then the check engine light came on for no reason. It is spitting out two codes.
1) P3081
2) P2181
The car still was running good even with spitting these codes so I continued to drive it for another week. Today I was sitting in the parking lot of a store and the car was idling for about 25 minutes while I ran into the store and I come outside from the store and there was a huge lake under my car and the engine was running hot and smoking.
I let it cool down and poured some water into the over flow bubble looking thing and it didn't look like any water was leaking out.
When the water was leaking out it looked like it was coming from the left middle side of the engine.....
Also I would like to add that the car seems to always run a little cold.....it never runs just in the middle like most cars do...
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I have a 2008 MK4 2.0 with only 53,000kms. At 40,000Kms I put new OEM spark plugs.
Just recently, every morning when I start the engine is sputtering and rough running. The engines want to die but I give a little gas, and run rough like it is only firing on two or three cylinders.
When it gets to the normal operating coolant temperature it runs without any problem and I can use the AC. Its only give me this problem on the first start of the day.
Does not have any MIL light on the instrument panel. I scan it with VCDS-Lite and do not found any fault codes. The only thing that's come to my mind is to change the Green Coolant Sensor.
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The vehicle is a 2004 Jetta MK4 1.8t.
Last thing I had replaced about 2 months ago was the Solenoid valve, the MAF and Solenoid hose. Car ran fine for about a month, and bam...engine light came back on, along with the ASR light. At first it was saying "cat converter" so I researched that, and what a surprise, it spoke about being a $1k piece to replace. NOTHING HAS BEEN CHEAP ON THIS CAR, and I'm losing my mind.
The latest adventure happened today coming back from the gym. Car started jerking (which has been normal since every now and then the ASR light will come on, which I'm told is the traction control light. Causing the car to jerk. Simple fix is pulling over, shutting the car off, and turning it back on. That always clears it, and then I'm back on the road.) but instantly it lost power. It wont shift, but the traction control light didn't come on. I plugged my OBD2 tool up, and came back with these fault codes:
P0420: Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
P0753: Shift Solenoid "A" Electrical
P2637: Torque Management Feedback Signal A
I'm going to go to these guys tomorrow, but I would just like to get an educated guess on what might be going on, so I don't look like a lost dog while they're figuring out what to do next. These guys seem knowledgeable, but they're missing something since I've been in and out of their shop several times and still getting my traction control light on at random times, and now all 3 of these codes.
Does that Solenoid code have anything to do with the Solenoid valve they put in? I was told that cleaning the throttle body and the cat converter might work. Would those be cheaper options to consider, and see if that works?
I also read that unplugging the alternator and plugging it back in, then cleaning the male and female with electrical cleaner might work. I was told about a month ago that my battery barely passed. Could this be causing any of my issues? I also did a log while I was driving, but all that's showing up is a google map document.
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My cel is once again starring me in the face ... P0018 is the code I got followed by "engine coolant - high input". Where I can buy a book/chart that explains these codes. I'm assuming it is some sort of sensor gone bad but not sure exactly.
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I have a mk4 r32 with 110,000 miles and I'm throwing a p0016 code witch I believe is cam position sensor my timing chains and guides were changed at 90k car runs good and if I erase the code it doesn't come on right away maybe every 200-500 miles:confused could this just be a bad cam sensor there is also no oil leaking from them and they are tight.
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So about six months ago I bought a used 2010 mkvi gti from a small dealer. Now here's my problem. The other day i started my car and it was a rough start. And the car ran rough. I stalled twice trying to back up. Then the car threw a light. I didnt drive it at all. Shut it off and left it. Read the code that night. P0016
Now I know the timing tensioner thing has been beaten to death. So that's my first thought. However, there was never a rattle or a noise. Nothing like that. Is it possible? All four cylinders have compression. About 210psi. I don't know if that is good or bad. Plugs are worn but look good enough. Not too much junk on them. Coil packs look "newer" and they are the "upgraded" versions. Other than the tensioner what else could cause a p0016 failt?
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I have a 2004 Jetta, 2.0L. I was pulling out of stop light and the car sputtered for a second and shut off, and now will not start. I thought I heard a clicking noise coming from under the dash or the engine bay right before it shut off. The engine turns over and cranks fine, I replaced the fuel pump relay and checked the fuse(28) and both are good, I can hear the fuel pump run when the key is in the on position. I swapped out the coil pack and checked the injector fuse(32), both are also good. I pulled the line off of the end of the fuel rail and it's getting gas to the rail. The immobilizer light is not on but the EPC light is lit when I turn the key on, I can't remember if it was lit or not before starting when the car is running normal.
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I have a 2004 mk4 GTi 1.8t and this has happened to me a few times now, I came home from work shut my car off and like 2 minutes later went out to go out to eat and before I left my neighborhood I stopped at a stop sign and my car just died wouldn't start back up so I push started it and then stopped again and the same thing so I tried to jump start it nothing happened so I push started my car got it home came home like 2 hours later and my car ran just fine, the second time it happened I was on my way to work and-and I was coming up on a red light and right before my car shut off my oil light came on so I checked my oil and it looks like I had oil and it was never ticking or anything but the first thing I tried was adding oil and it started up right away and today I went to school to drop papers off and when I came back out my car wouldn't start so I just sat there for like 20 minutes and it finally started and then once again on my way home my car died as I was pulling into my driveway.
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I went to check out a TDI. Got there and it had to be jumped (45F) The glow plug harness was bad. but even after we got it started and drove it for several miles to get it to operating temp, it was still difficult to start after shutting it off. Shouldn't it start up easily after being warmed up even if the glow plug harness was bad?
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This morning i went to start my car and threw a flashing engine light. common sense says its a misfire. i know it's probably smart to check my spark plugs first but here's my dilemma. if it isn't the plugs and turns out to be my ignition coil, where the hell is that even located? I have an 04 Jetta 2.slow engine
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2004 PD TDI. been a little hard to start these days, hot or cold, and suddenly dies on me in middle of the road. Tank pump is working, new fuel filter so lots of fuel. Replaced engine speed sensor as there was no tach function. Glow plug light comes on, so ECU has power. Not a hiccup. Don't have the advanced VW diagnostic software, just generic scan tool. No engine codes.
I checked the wiring diagram in my manual and it shows 3 wires to speed sensor, one of which should be ground. getting various resistances across all 3 to ground (measuring through the ecu end of the connector, sensor unplugged), but no direct to ground which seems strange, but I'm not sure I trust the Haynes manual as the colour codes listed aren't the same as in my car - I've got white brown and black, and none show direct ground. Not sure if it matters as it's only a shield anyway.
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So this weekend my Y-fitting for the coolant hose (coming out of the reservoir) broke, literally after arriving at my friends house about 50 miles from home.
I "mended" it, and decided to try to take it home, as it is my daily. Temperature would get high, but not into the red, and drop back down. On the final rise, it got a bit too close to red for comfort. I drove about 25 miles, and my coolant light was on the majority of the time. The last 3-5 miles, my oil light came on. When I went to pull off the road, I pushed in my clutch and my car died. My first assumption was a head gasket (as I have been there before.
I open the hood and coolant is pouring out of my "mended" y-fitting. I check under the car - no oil, just coolant. The oil didn't seem to be "milky," but there seemed to be some sort of condensation on the filler cap. I checked the dipstick - not milky, just liquidy. I added some oil to the car, and had a friend bring some distilled water, and did a little bit better job of mending my fitting. I poured the distilled water in, and it started boiling almost immediately. I let the car cool for a couple hours and tried to start it, but nothing.
There's no white smoke, but the car just "puts" for a few cranks, and then it goes back to cranking. Looking around the engine housing, there doesn't seem to be any oil; but my car has a lot of grease on the block, so it's hard to say.
I did some searching, and it seems that it could be the oil cooler? I don't have the tools for a compression test, and the car was towed to a gas station, which is about 30 mins from my house.
The car is a 2004 Jetta, 1.8T Manual with the 5-speed.
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After timing belt change code P0016 with Check engine light trac off and VSC light on.
Put on the entire kit...timing belt,tensioner, idler, and water pump. When I took it apart to put the new cam crank sensor I inspected everything and all looked good.
Changed the sensor and reset code, a few hours later back on. Car seems to run fine. I didn't think the sensor was bad. Car was running great...just due for timing belt.
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My brother-in-law brought me his 2004 Trailblazer that had an extremely rough idle and would die if ya thought about the air conditioner and all! So he had replaced the cam sensor, didn't work. He replaced the spark plugs didn't work. He replaced the fuel filter didn't work. So he asked me about it and ran across a fella talking about the CAM ACTUATOR SOLENOID and explained all about what to look for and such and low and behold new solenoid later purrs like a new one!!! It is look right above the power steering pump there is a plug in the side of the engine there with electric wires running to it.
One of the signs of being bad is oil inside that 2 wire plug just pull it off and look in it. Now to remove it you will have to take the power steering pump loose so it will move back out of the way so you can pull the solenoid out of the engine if ya get it out look on the end there are grooves running around it with little screens on them see if any are gone or coming apart, this usually sets a P0016 code which is stuff interfering with the sensors inside. If there is any oil in the plug or any screens missing then it will have to be replaced.
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