Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2005 - Oil Cooler Randomly Start Leaking?
Jul 28, 2014
I've got 149,xxx miles on my Golf TDI. Took it by a local shop for a routine oil change and since then, it's just been puking oil from the oil cooler. I took it back to the shop and the mechanic even pointed that out. Some red flags here; Timing is too shady. This happened literally the day after the oil change. He also told me that he won't use customer-supplied parts for liability reasons. Seems believable enough, but why would this part just choose to go wrong now?
This is my first time at this shop too and I've never really dealt with "bad mechanics" before but something about this isn't sitting right with me, and I'm not sure how to handle my next step properly. So what would cause an engine oil cooler to leak profusely just after an oil change?
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2005 jetta gli 1.8t automatic ( i know flanges are different from automatic to manuel) just recently found the leaking coolant flange. Can I change the flange without having to drain the coolant out of the system. my coolant is new because i recently had the timing belt/water pump etc done so its new coolant and i do not want to flush the system. also will i have to "bleed" the system if i just pull the flange of and replace it if that is possible.
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I have a problem with my 2005 gti 1.8t , I had a issue with my cooling flange leaking, I changed it yesterday refiled it with g12 and distilled water took the car for a test drive about 20 min in see the temperature go up, no steam or water leaking any where, turn on the heat notice no hot air from the vents,turn on the ac no cold air, and the fans are not turning on. Everything worked the day before I did the coolant flange, am thinking is this possible because the coolant temperature sensor broke? fans will not turn on at all even if it overheating. If I leave the radiator cap off the coolant is spiting out of the overflow expansion tank don't know where to start looking for some pointers. Would bad thermostat cause the fans not to turn on?I think is impossible that the fans and the thermostat broke at the same time with the fact that everything worked the day before..
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I am looking at a 05 GLI 5 speed with 133k miles. I drove it yesterday and it runs fine, but I smelled coolant after I turned it off. I was told by the dealer that the turbo is leaking some, it was spooling while driving and didn't seem to do anything funny. The check engine light came on and said coolant was low when we got back, when I cranked it back up the light was out. Just not sure about it.
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I am absolutely stumped and so are two mechanics I've been to. Randomly when I go to start the car the battery is so dead it won't start. Car is an AWD 2001 1.8T Jetta.
Replaced battery and alternator at my regular mechanic, all ground wires look great and couldn't find any shorts. There is a 11 Amp draw from my battery, took it to a shop that specializes in VW/Audi and they hooked it up to Vagcom and it showed absolutely nothing wrong. He left the meter hooked up and pulled every single fuse in the car and there was only like a 0.01 drop, nothing significant. When he went to take my car out of the shop, wouldn't start. So he put a battery pack on it, still wouldn't start. Took off both terminals on the battery, put them back on, put on the battery pack, and car started.
The aftermarket deck in it is just a JVC single din, doesn't seem to have any issues.
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I bought this car and I've changed out the Clutch Position Sensor, the black one on the clutch mount. Started to work and start but now it's doing the same symptoms as before. So here is what is going on.
1. Randomly doesn't start, full power comes on, and fuel system turns on, immobilizer works just fine as far as I can tell (key light turns off)
2. Cruise control doesn't work (which lead me to the CPS)
3. High revs between shift, once I push the clutch to shift it revs up high, I noticed that if I stay under 3k it doesn't do it as much, but if I go HAM on it it revs up about 1k rpm more than at shift point. But if I shift nice it revs about 2-400 rpm.
It's been tuned by C2 Motorsports, done by a certified mechanic, that's the only mod on the car, besides suspension. I bought the car and dropped 1100 to fix it to drive right, newish throttle body, and a major vacuum hose, and the tune within a month of getting the car and the tune was to mainly flash the ecu so it wouldn't pull two codes for a leak that wasn't there anymore.
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2005 saturn l300 water leak and pools driver side flooring. have removed carpet and sound cushion from flooring. used garden hose to find leak source w/o luck. it has rained twice w/o leaks.
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I noticed last week when I leave the house in the morning my car was leaving oil striped down my road. Jacked car up Saturday AFTER RUNNING TO STORE found a little oil on bottom of my car but not nowhere near what I was thinking there would be. Cleaned motor fired up found no leaks at all . However this morning after car had sat 20hrs or so I looked under car before I cranked her up clean.
Got it cranked her up and oil was streaming from the oil cooler. Not on the block side but towards the front of car side of cooler. It did this for a few seconds then stopped. I am gonna order new front and rear orings for oil cooler. I am just stumped why it only happens at a cold start and for a few seconds not consistently.
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My buddy has a 03 Jetta 1.8t and just started doing this has a ton of oil in the intercooler ....
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OK so been about 3 weeks and still cant get my car to start. So far I have installed a new crank position sensor, speed sensor located on top of transmission, new spark plugs, new fuel pump had battery tested and charged. I have tested the fuel injectors and get 13.1 ohms at all injectors tested the new crank position sensor and get 800 ohms. I just had car scanned with VCDS scanner and the codes that come up are. What else can I check.
[IMG] ....
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Been having trouble with my 2005 vw jetta gli 1.8T. On the highway from about 60-75 mph, the engine will randomly cut out (feels like my foot isn't on the gas at all even though it is). All the power in the car stays on and it will only cut out for maybe 3-4 seconds. Occasionally it will completely shut off as if the car stalled (it's a manual), which is dangerous on the highway. It will start back up and continue but will usually do it again. Funny background, I didn't have this problem all winter when it was colder, but today was a warmer day (in the 80's) and I was in stop and go traffic right before it happened too. I was thinking maybe something in the fuel delivery system, but the car idles and starts just fine. Could it be a MAF sensor? I thought a car would still run without a MAF just not very well?
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So my little brother bought a 2005 Vw gli, and it's been pretty good on him so far however, one day he was coming back from work and the car suddenly shut off on him and we haven't been able to get it to start.
(Haven't really been able to actually diagnose it fully since this is his second car)
Did the typical unplugging of the air mass sensor to see if it was that. Checked the relays to see if they clicked Checked all the fuses Checked the ignition switch Checked to see if fuel is getting to the injectors Checked some of the grounds( can't locate all of them)When I turn the key, the rpm needle moves a tiny bit
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Last Saturday I got gas on my way home from work then let my car sit all day. Sunday morning i go to start my car and it starts terribly along with a very rough idle. The ride to work was hideous as the car could barely climb a hill (max 25mph and high RPMs 3000 to 4000). Along with bad hill climbing power the car could barely get to 60mph.
I added a bottle of Gumout as I thought I might have gotten bad gas this had no result. While trying to figure out what was wrong I also replaced the air filter.
Fast forward to Tuesday I decide to inspect the fuses in the car and under the hood (all of which looks in good condition). I started the car before i went inside and it seemed the same as it has been all week. Wednesday morning I go to leave and the car refuses to start. It tries to start but immediately quits and then shakes wildly while trying to start. I have since changed the fuel filter, replaced 5 ignition coils, and given it 5 new spark plugs. The car is still doing the exact same thing it was Wednesday morning.
This is a VW Jetta 2005 2.5 Engine
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So my new problem is cold engine starts If it's mildly cold out like 30-40 F or 0-10C and has been sitting awhile the car won't start on the first couple of tries. It tries to start but I guess chokes/sputters out like its not getting enough gas. Warm engine it starts instantly.
I put a bottle of gumout regane fuel system cleaner in the tank hoping its a dirty fuel system seeing it feels like it chokes out on gas during the cold start. I'm about half way done that tank and was going to add another bottle on the next tank.
I'm worried about the cold winter approaching and found out issue 8001 today that the oil pan heater is ripped off with broken wires and missing cover.
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Crank position sensor was replaced a few months ago. After that noticed that it would not accelerate properly from a standing start. No jerking or anything, but way back it used to be able to spin the front tires a bit, but now not getting that needed acceleration. After hitting 15 or 20 mph, then it's back to normal and road and highway speeds are nice with power.
The reason the crank position sensor was replace was on account of intermittent no starts. That's gone away, but now this acceleration problem. Could it be a leaking air from the outside into the intercooler? Would a VAGCOMM show what's going on? Golf TDI 2005...
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I have a 2005 Golf GL trim 2L SOVC. For months now the car won't start on the first try. One must let off the key and disengage the starter then reengage. It always starts the second try and never starts the first. Once the engine runs for a few seconds, if you turn it off, then start it again, it immediately starts. It's never a problem en route. Only if you let the car sit for a while, say 8hrs or more, (when the fuel pressure dies) do I observe this "no start on first try" behavior.
I recently replaced the plugs and fuel filter and cleaned the throttle body. It's a little better now. It stumbles like it is going to start on the first try after sitting but doesn't.
I exposed the fuel pump and measured the voltage going to it. When you turn the key to "on" position, the engine computer put's voltage to the pump for about 1.5 seconds and that's it. So while you are cranking I guess it expects that 1.5 seconds of pump operation is enough. I put my fuel pressure guage on the port near the injectors, and, as I suspected, the pressure only builds to about 28lbs. On the second try it gets up to 40. Once running it's about at 45lbs.
Sounds like a firmware bug to me.I'm considering wiring in a switch that I can toggle to deliver more on time to the pump inititally - maybe 3 seconds? Is this normal?
I noticed that when I put the fuel pressure gauge on initially there was zero pressure. Is this normal?
Shouldn't a check valve keep it at pressure? Where is the check valve located? I'm also getting a P0171 code "engine too lean". I repaired a hole in the air hose going from the air pump to the throttle body - still get the code. All hoses look good.
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2005 1.8t gti wont start. The other day I was driving on the highway when a thin plastic type wrapping got caught in my serpentine belt. The car immediately died and I hit the gas and nothing and with no power steering i pulled over to the side.
Timing belt was done with water pump and tensioners
Spark plugs and coils are brand new
What fuel line to disconnect to test if the fuel pump works? Like I said in the title I cant hear the fuel pump priming. The engine was running 100% before this 2 techs saw it and the vw dealer i workrd at looked it over.
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So I have a 2005 GTI 1.8t and I just recently had a new fuel filter/fuel pump installed.. Now ever morning when I go to start it it starts really hard.. once it's starts it runs fine it just takes me a couple cranks to get it started....
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It is pretty common knowledge that when we start our cars they initially rev to ~1200rpm for a minute or two and slowly drop down to just below 800rpm. I generally use this as the "warmup" time for the car and try not to drive until the rpms drop. But lately in this cooler weather (<20F) when I start my car the revs do not go to 1200rpm, they start right around 800rpm and don't fluctuate. Why this might be happening?
Last winter I did not pay attention to the revs so I can't confirm or deny that this happened before. But I do notice it only in cooler temps. If it is much above 30F the car will start like normal.
Only engine mods are APR stage 1+; VWR intake and APR HPFP.
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2001 VW Jetta wagon will randomly not start it up. Jumping it or popping the clutch doesn't get it going. I've made sure there is nothing draining the power and the battery is new and clean. My mechanic has run diagnostics on it to check the codes and kept it for a week to use it when he ran errands; it never gave him any problems. He wants me to give him a call if I get stuck again so he can hear what it sounds like when it won't start. A week later, it wouldn't start for me(of course it was on a Sunday). I waited an hour and it started. It does this whether it's been sitting over night or after using it for an hour or two. I'll go somewhere, park,and return 10 minutes later and it makes that sound like there isn't quite enough power to start (starter is new).Now it does have over 382,000 original miles on original motor, timing belt replaced a few months ago and the mechanic said it's clean and strong. I would love to know what to do other then getting rid of it!
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It looks to me the tranny cooler is leaking oil. That's what I am assuming is leaking its on the drivers side in front of radiator. Its not antifreeze.
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