Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Air Conditioning Almost Stalls At Idle
May 13, 2014
I had just picked my car up from the shop after getting a new 3" downpipe installed (welded to stock cat) and attached to stock catback exhaust. I mention this because I never had this problem before and have already had installed a TIP, boost hose kit, DV, larger intercooler, and breather hose kit, all for a Unitronic Stage 2 tune.
So I go to turn on the A/C and the idle drops to about 400 rpm, almost stalls, interior shudders, vacuum jumps from about 20 to 10 as the engine revs itself a bit, and then it settles back out and the car runs fine (awesome with the new tune) and A/c works great. I have used the A/C a bit since getting all other upgrades done and never had a problem, or I didn't notice, but I'm wondering why a new downpipe would make a difference. I tried turning it on and off a few more times and the same things happened at idle, but after that initial dip and near-stall the engine was just fine around town and on the highway.
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I have a 01 vw bora 1.8t and recently I let it sit for one day and now it has trouble starting when it's cold and when it does start it has a very rough idle and often stalls out of you try and press the gas. Once it has warmed up she runs fine. My check engine light is on but I have no way to take her down to a shop to get the codes read. What is wrong with my car? One of my friends told me it could be a cool pack or a sensor.
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Here's the story: was on my way downtown last night to get a new suit (I'm in Savannah, GA so it's hot) and AC was working great. The Jetta (2003 AWP) is a stock-everything-1.8T that has never had any AC work done to it from the day I bought it new. I figured it was doing just fine so just leave it alone. Anyway, leave the suit shop (bought a gray three-piece) and go back to the parking lot, start up and get ready to leave, no cold air from the vents. I get it home and do some reading on here and also in the Bentley manual and get into some preliminary troubleshooting. Here's what I have so far:
- Engine running/AC button ON/Blower on "3"/Recirculation OFF/Engine at operating temperature
- Turn blower ON - visually verified that clutch is not engaged and compressor is not spinning
- Shut car off, compressor does turn by hand easily
- With AC button on and blower on, passenger side cooling fan (behind radiator) is ON but driver side cooling fan IS NOT on - I think this indicates a problem from what I've read
- Checked cabin fuses 5, 16, & 25. All have low resistance (good continuity) and are not discolored. Just to make sure I scuffed the contacts with a scotchbrite pad and reinstalled them
- Same deal for the top-of-the-battery power distribution block. All fuses checked okay and were scuffed and reinstalled
- Moved on to the pressure switch/pressure sensor. My vehicle has the 3-pin sensor so jumping contacts is not a possibility. I need to rent/buy a duty cycle meter to check it. Any good tutorial on how to do this? Do I disconnect the connector and check it right at the switch or must I break out the wires and check it in parallel with the connector attached to the sensor?
- I grabbed a flat-head screwdriver and gave the high-pressure and low-pressure service valves a poke and got a good blast of pressure from them so I don't think the system is empty.
- Did a little more reading and found I needed to check voltage at the 3-pin connector on top of the battery power distribution block. I did this with the key ON - no power at any of the pins. Repeated with key ON and engine running with AC button ON and blower ON - still no voltage. For these measurements, the connector was DISCONNECTED. Does this matter? Do I need to have it plugged in to get voltage there (i.e., read the voltage from the rear of the connector with it installed?)
- Finally, and perhaps most enlightening, I suspected I may simply be low on R134a so I bought a can with a pressure gauge on it. Connected it to low-pressure side with engine running, AC button ON, blower on "4", recirculation OFF. The gauge read ~150 PSIG. Yes, this seems high to me too; however, the compressor is still not turning at this point. Does it need to turn to get a good pressure reading from the LP service valve? I recall from everything I read that if pressure is too low, the clutch won't engage, and if pressure is too high, the clutch won't engage
So, as far as I can tell I have a few problems...
1. The driver side fan doesn't run when AC button is ON
2. No voltage at the 3-pin connector on the battery power distribution block Incorrect methods...there is voltage there.
3. Low-pressure side of the AC system is too high Called and checked with a local mechanic...I won't receive correct pressures if the compressor is not turning.
My next steps are to check the voltage at the compressor connector for 12VDC. I suspect I'll get 0V because it's clearly not turning. I'll do this once I can figure out how to get the dang connectors apart without breaking them. 11-year-old heat fatigued plastic is brittle...
Finally got the compressor connector apart.. there is 12VDC on pin 1 and 0VDC on pin 2 (it's a ground, so there shouldn't be..ground continuity check good). Ohmed out the clutch...from what I can tell, that circuit is open. However, I am not 100% sure I was on the contacts because of how the connector is positioned. I'm going to get a dummy connector from a salvage yard and connect it up and make sure I have good contact before I call it a bad clutch.
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I have an 01 Jetta 1.8t wolfsburg eddition and the AC won't blow cold air. The AC Clutch does engage when I press the AC button on the control unit The refrigerant pressure is good The fan blows, but its hot air. the condenser is working because the pipe is cold when the ac is running I am curious if any of you know what other possible problems could be causing this. It is currently 100 degrees with 100% humidity
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How many degrees should cool the air conditioning? My Golf 4 has about 14 years and doesn't seem to cool as much as before. Measuring with the probe of a multimeter, the temperature of the air coming through the air vents drops 10 C below ambient temperature. For example at 28 C ambient temperature I can get 18 C through the air vents, but doesn't seem that low. After the air mixes inside you don't really notice a big drop.
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2001 jetta 4 dr. 2.0 gas
The other day I was driving and the air just quit. No screeches bangs or anything. I checked all the fuses and realized my main fan wasn't working.
I replaced both fans but still no air. When I push the button on the dash for recirculate my brake light on the instrument panel comes on.
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Ok here is the issue, my girlfriend owns a MK4 '99 Jetta. Through the search I was able to figure out why she is having so many issues with her door locks and how they can be fixed on the cheap..thats awesome. But here is the problem. She was driving down the road the other day, A/C working...then suddenly it stopped blowing cold. Fan is still working, just blows hot air. She said it started blowing warm suddenly and hasnt been getting warmer through out the past days or anything.
With the hood popped and the a/c on, you can see that the compressor isnt engaging. The car makes a noise like its engaging the compressor, but nothing is happening that I can see visually. Seems as if the compressor is not getting the signal to engage. It sounds like its trying to make the compressor kick on about every 5 seconds or so. Basically that initial clicking sound that your hear RIGHT before the compressor comes on when its working normally.
We have checked the fuses and no luck with those, all look good. Seems like its an electrical issue to me. What this may be? Bad pressure switch? Low pressure in the system? I know the car has had the compressor replaced before...and the clutch seems to spin freely when the car is off.
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I was at the pump getting gas. Left the engine running. Put in gas. Put the cap back. Checked to make sure it was tight. Got back in the car to find that the engine had stalled. I thought maybe just a fluke. Then it happened again a few days later. Same situation. Last night I was sitting at idle (not at the filling station) and same thing. The engine is not running rough --nor is the idle. I seems to take around 5 minutes or so before stalling. It starts right back up no problem. I had a dealer tune-up about 2 months ago. Replaced spark plugs, plug wires, coil, PCV valve, etc. It cost a small fortune. Why this is happening? 2013 VW Jetta 2.0 ....
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I have a 99.5 vr6 Jetta that I just got running, I just put a new motor in it and got all cels to go out except one because a vac hose came off and I put it back but I haven't had time to reset it. Now that I have put in ~160 miles on the new motor I felt like doing some harder pulls and racing the lights and whatnot.
Well when the car is revved up really high, like when doing a flat out start, it stalls around ~5000 rpm. It'll drive all day and pull even when I don't rev it up that high but it stalls on the way down from 5000. It stalls in neutral and while driving. It does it hot and cold.
I have put a new MAF, new crank position sensor, new output shaft, new cam position sensor. Has a new stock air filter. And an oil pump and good bearings. Has good timing too and all new timing tensioners.
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So up until a couple months ago my car was running fine. We drove to Vegas and everything was good, then on the way home from the car show, I put some cr@ppy 87 in and about an hour out of town I was going 80 on cruise and it bogged all the way out and came back when I hit like 60. Put some 91 in when I got to the next town and car stopped bogging out after every 5-10 miles.
I got home and read my codes. I've got a secondary air injection issue which has been going on for awhile. Also had a cam position sensor which I fixed.
Now I was driving my car the other day, I drove it til it was all the way warm and then when the clutch gets pushed in and around 1k rpms it stalls. I started it back up with my foot on the floor to get it back going. Right down the street I stop at a stop light and it stalls again and won't start. Had to push it to a gas station and leave it for a couple of hours to wait for it to cool way down to start back up. Was running like cr@p at first, but I made it home.
I had initially thought I needed a new fuel filter as well as a new fuel pump. Heard that it could also be a crank position sensor?
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This has been happening for awhile now, but whenever the gas gets to 1/4 tank and below (about 2 ticks from the red tick on the gauge) the car will stall for about 3 seconds then come back to life. If it happens while I'm stopped it will completely die and I'll have to restart it.
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When you give it a decent amount of acceleration it starts to hesitate and kind of jump, the engine light flashes it kinda sounds like it want to stall. I'm not to good with the turbo motors. The car is a 2000 golf.
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Once I reach highway speeds on cruise control, I would feel my car to start slowing down, then a second or two later the car jerks and starts accelerating again. A few times I beat it to the punch and pressed the clutch pedal. The RPMs just dropped and the car died. This happens ONLY after a quarter tank of gas is left. I get no lights, No check engine; nothing... Where should I start looking. BTW I have a 2002 Jetta GLI VR6 24V.
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I have a VW 2003 VR6 jetta and lately I need to turn my key 2-3 times to start the car. Then while driving during daytime hours its stalls after 30 - 40mins. With EPC light on. I also have an engine light on.
Code P1151. I noticed a small exhaust noise coming from my middle pipe and my engine is very hot after driving for 30 -45 mins after it stalls. It does start back up after 10 minutes but stalls later.
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So I am having this weird electrical issue when connecting VCDS. Every time VCDS begins to scan, the door seems to receive an unlock command and then the car will stall and shut off. I have tried doing different things but no luck. Possibly a bad ground somewhere? Also, when the car stalls out, VCDS then picks up a few codes. I can clear the codes just fine but every time this happens, the codes return. Here are the VCDS codes:
Address 01: Engine
Labels: 06A-906-018-AEG.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 06A 906 018 J
Component and/or Version: MOTRONIC M5.9.2 AT V06
Software Coding: 00001
Work Shop Code: WSC 00066
VCID: 2959A211D3043F762A-4AE4
8 Faults Found:
17633 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 1 (N30)
P1225 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
17634 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 2 (N31)
P1226 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
17635 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 3 (N32)
P1227 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
17636 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 4 (N33)
P1228 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
17859 - Secondary Air Injection System
P1451 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
17829 - Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve (N112)
P1421 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
17833 - EVAP Purge Valve (N80)
P1425 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
17880 - EVAP Leak Detection Pump
P1472 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
It seems that only the engine controller is being affected. Assuming that the car doors run under the same controller?
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The car starts well every time even though the revs go up then down for just two seconds before stabilizing at normal rev count. Sometimes while driving the car would just stall and loose power even though my foot will still be on the accelerator, if I pump the accelerator it will wake up and move on nicely like nothing ever happened. I've had this problem for the past two months now and it happens atleast 5 - 6 times a week randomly. the problems is beginning to get worse. The car has an automatic transmission. I've changed the fuel filter and air filter only in the last 20000kms. the MAF is ok because when i unplug it the car switches off and won't start again. every time i open the hood and rev the car a bit i can hear what sem to be huge suction of air somewhere next to the throttle body.
2011 Golf mk4, 1.8L...
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I drive a 2003 Golf 2.0 manual. I've had this problem happen to me four times in my year-and-a-half of ownership -- once about three months ago and three times today.
Whether at highway or city speeds (60+ MPH or 30 MPH, respectively), power to the accelerator cuts out without warning. The engine briefly sounds like it's working overtime (but it could just be my foot on the accelerator pedal) and the tachometer needle struggles to stay at the RPMs. In a matter of seconds, the engine stalls and the needle gradually starts to fall. I can't tell you how dangerous of a situation this is to be in: 65 MPH on the highway with vehicles all around you, your car chokes, and you're losing speed.
The first time this happened to me three months ago, I had to hit my emergency lights and pull over to the highway shoulder. Turning the ignition off, then on, and attempting to start the car didn't work. I thought I was in trouble. Then I removed the key and tried it again. It was successful. I got to my destination (my parent's home) and they recommended I go see their regular mechanic for an inspection. He told me that the problem could be low fuel in the tank, as I did at the time. When the car's fuel tank is at a certain angle, the fuel pump doesn't pump fuel properly, messing up the whole combustion, and causing the car to stall. This explanation fit the situation I was in perfectly, as the fuel indicator had just come on when it occurred.
Today, the fuel indicator was just above the last 1/8 -- no fuel warning light -- and the car stalls three times (once on the highway to work, once on the highway home with no shoulders to pull over, and once on city road). I had prior experience about this and drive a manual, so I have attempted each time today to re-start the car while at speed. It was a scary situation the second time today: 9:30pm, dark, modest amount of cars on the road, on a twisty highway with no shoulders (California Highway 110 between Downtown and Pasadena) where each time you turn the ignition off, the headlights go out, the steering wheel goes stiff, and you're decelerating. Fortunately, I dropped only 25 MPH to 40 when I got the car running again when I remembered to remove the key first before re-starting.
Needless to say, rather than wait two days to get cheap gas at Costco (b/c I work tomorrow as well), I went to the 76 near my home and filled her up . Hopefully, this situation will not happen again, as I will be a lot more diligent about keeping gas in my tank.
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Recently my 01 Jetta 1.8T has started to not start like it should. Say every 4th or 5th start it cranks and cranks, I see the tach eventually flick a couple of times and then it finally fires up. It's also stalled while I'm driving, say when I stop at a light but will usually start up again ok.
After the not so good start I get the impression the car is kind of surging while driving - like a fuel supply issue although maybe the fuel pump has nothing to do with supply after starting?
So anyway my thought is perhaps fuel pump issue? I decided to try and search for my issue or fuel pump issues but it talks about things that happen when you open the drivers door which in my case isn't working properly (i.e., I believe it is a DLM as my windows sometimes all go down and I don't get any chime or door light when the door opens).
So just wondering if based on what I'm experiencing if fuel pump sounds likely and perhaps what further tests I should run. My battery is new and the engine does crank pretty good if that eliminate it. I guess I should be thinking fuel filter perhaps also.
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When the weather gets cold, (lower than 45 deg. F) my Jetta does not want to stay running. It turns over and starts just fine but it does not like to stay on. When I turn the key to the #2 position I can hear the fuel pump fire up and pressurize the system. I always attempt to start it after that, and after 1-2 seconds of running, it seems like it chokes itself out. I have the new coolant temp. sensor (green top), my MAF has been replaced, all spark plugs are new with the correct gap (approx. .030"), new air filter, I run 93 octane fuel.
The worst part is, once the car is warmed up (After forcing it fuel and starting it over, and over, and over again) it runs awesome! I have had this problem since I bought the car (about 2 years ago). The owner told me about it and mentioned that he has never been able to figure it out either (trips to the dealer included). I have been dealing with it for 2 years, but it is getting much worse. Over the past 2 days I have not been able to get my car to stay on long enough to get it to move.
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2000 Jetta, 2.0 AEG engine with 220k miles, recently started intermittently stalling (about 15-20 minutes into my trip) while driving mostly on city streets but has also stalled on the freeway at 65mph. Fuel level is always > half full, verified against my tripometer. When it stalls, engine completely cuts off, all dashboard lights are all lit, and no power steering.
I have VCDS but know only enough to be dangerous My mechanic has no answers and I don't want to randomly throw new parts at this the car, hoping to resolve the problem. It's becoming seriously dangerous to drive, knowing it will die at least once on every trip. What's the chance the oxygen sensors need to be replaced ?
Symptoms
(1) Most of the time the engine just turns off, as if I turned off the ignition. Other times, I can catch the engine RPMs drop to ~300 and just hit the gas, which sometimes saves car from stalling.
(2) Immediately after it stalls, there is is rotten egg smell.
(3) Once stalled, the engine won't start back up again for at least 5 minutes. (turns over, but doesn't start)
(4) Confirmed error codes from VDCS: misfires on all cylinders and random
(5) Took it to my mechanic for diagnosis. They were unable to duplicate on a road test. Smoke test showed no vacuum leaks, road test monitoring data did not capture any additional faults, and found no faults running it heat soaked and parked. They captured sensor signal data and found no abnormal patterns. They feel replacing the O2 sensors is an expensive guess.
(6) Replaced the crankshaft position sensor after the car would not start at all, one morning. (discovered that the CPS tested at a faulty ~50k ohms). Bought a new one, installed it and it turned over immediately but the stall issue continues)
Fault Codes
Code:
18057 - Powertrain Data Bus
P1649 - 35-10 - Missing Message from ABS Controller - Intermittent
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 35-10 - - Intermittent
16685 - Cylinder 1
P0301 - 35-10 - Misfire Detected - Intermittent
16524 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S2
P0140 - 35-10 - No Activity - Intermittent
seen separately
Code:
16517 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S1
P0133 - 35-10 - Response too Slow - Intermittent
Note that I have been ignoring the ABS-related errors for 4+ years. (not a concern or priority). On the short list are ignition coil or crankshaft sensor. Both of which require my mechanic to replace, I think.
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I have an '01 gti glx that I just swapped a motor into. I got the motor out of an '01 jetta glx, exact match AFP engine code.
I get cylinder 2 misfires mostly (high number) but I also get 5 and 6 intermittently as well as a P0300 code.
Sometimes I also need to hold the gas down just to get it to start even after the crank sensor.
The engine idles sometimes at 600 rpm but drops and nearly stalls after revving at all.
What I've tried so far:
working cam sensor from my old vr
brand new crank sensor
brand ned wires/plugs
new fuel filter
swapped injectors of misfiring cylinders from old motor
lined up the timing 3 times now and its still perfect
I know the coil pack works because it was on my old motor, which ran fine, just leaked oil.
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