Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Auto Dimming Mirror Is Leaking Fluid Internally And Super Dark
Sep 21, 2014
My auto dimming mirror is leaking fluid internally and is super dark, If i remove the mirror and cut the wires, will a normal mirror mount on the auto dimming base? I always use a Broadway mirror, but the mount sucks and the mirror always tilts down..
So question is will the normal mirror fit on the auto dimming base (ball) or should i just use some electrical tape on the ball the prevent it from falling?
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I have a 2000 GTI VR6, and the Rear-view mirror is half dimmed and half regular. Obviously it must be a failure. Is there any recalls or any way to get hold of a new one?
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I am in the midst of wiring up the Bold Sport kit that comes with the OEM mirror with build Rain/light sensor. It comes with a nicely made wiring harness with OEM terminals already installed. The kit can be found here for reference. [URL]
Right now I am following the directions from myturbodiesel.com [URL]
It instructs to add the power source to the fuse box. No problem. Says to add the RLS to fuse pin 17 and the Mirror power to pin 7.
Here is the diagram they show.
The problem is on my '13 Golf R, 17 is already taken. I can certainly add to a different pin on the same bus. So not really an issue there.
The other issue is that there is no power bus for pins 7-11 on my R. What gives? There is a power bus on pins 1-6 but they are all taken already.
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Any opinions on adding an auto dimming mirror? I miss having homelink, and I miss having the auto dim feature. Are there even options out there? If there are- have any of you used them? Do you like it? Hate it? How hard is the install?
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Any solution for a auto dimming drivers side mirror ?
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My old flip style rear view mirror was getting a little bad looking on the bottom of the mirror, so I decided to go pick up an OEM auto-dimming one. I did not care for homelink as I have no need for it, nor do I need temp since thats on the car already, so I wasn't interested in a non oem mirror. Plus I like simplicity, so plug and play is always nice. I paid $70 for the mirror, you can expect to pay around that as well.
Anyways, from my understanding, our Camrys should come prewired for the auto-dimming mirror, or at least the sunroof equipped models should come prewired. The plug sits in the overhead console near the drivers side sunvisor taped down. It's just a little white plug with a black sheath around the wiring.
Tools Needed:
-Your hands
-A smallish hex key (I don't know the exact size) or a smallish torx screwdriver
From start to finish, this shouldn't take you longer than 10 minutes to do. Let me emphasize first that you should make sure you're prewired for the auto-dimming mirror before you go out and buy one unless you prefer to hardwire things, or return things.
Step 1: Check if you're prewired for the mirror. Start by pulling down the overhead console. Push on the sunglasses holder to drop it down, grab on with both hands, and pull down. Don't worry, you shouldn't break anything, but don't pull down insanely hard otherwise you may pull some wires out of the harness attached to it. Now check near the drivers side sunvisor and see if theres a plug taped down, if there is, fantastic!
Step 2: (if you're not prewired for the mirror, you can stop here).Push that plug through the hole near the windshield to get that out of the way. You can now put the overhead console back on.
Step 3: Behind your stock rearview mirror, theres a little screw holding it on. You'll need either a hex key, or a torx screwdriver to remove it (although you can probably use a flathead to get it out if you want). DONT LOSE THAT SCREW. Once you unscrew it, pull up on the mirror to get it to slide out of the little metal mount its sitting on.
Step 4: Now that the old mirror is out, get the new mirror. Get the plug you pushed out of the overhead console and plug it into the mirror. Now, slide the mirror back onto that metal mount and then screw it in.
Step 5: Turn your key on, or to acc, and the mirror should now turn on. Easiest way to tell is if the compass comes up.
Step 5.5: Admire your hard work and your fancy new mirror!
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I'm just doing something wrong.
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I have an 06 Treg with the heated and auto dimming mirrors. I have noticed that sometimes when you look in the mirror it gives a dual image of the cars behind you.
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Ever since I've owned my Phaeton there's been what looks like a crack in the passenger side wing mirror, when you get up close however you can see the glass is fine and it's something within the mirror itself. The 'crack' is dark blue with an orange outline which makes me think it's possibly auto-dimming fluid which has leaked out. I've had a look online and can't see anything to confirm whether the passenger mirror is auto dimming as per the other two.
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I've recently noticed that my v's auto dimming rear view mirror has stopped working, or at least appears that way. I'm not sure if it's because of the tint because I have used my iPhones led to testing it by shining the light from inside of the vehicle but it still fails to dim.
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My auto dimming rear view mirror doesn't work for squat. I've found simple replacements but didn't know if others have found for replacing, working around, upgrading, etc.
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Planning on tinting soon probably with 3M Scotchtint color stable 35% on sides and back. I was wondering about what percentage tint would effect the automatic dimming rear view mirror and what percentage would render it an expensive brick?
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I have a 99 Jetta GLS that is leaking trans fluid in possibly 1 of 2 places. one is coming out of transmission pan seal. If it's the 1st one how would that be replaced. [URL]......................................
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Looking for wiring diagram for automatic dimming rear mirror for golf 7.
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Any way to disable the auto-dimming of my dashboard due to lack of light? It seems like when I go into tunnels, the dashboard dims so much that all I can see are the needles.
I suppose I could also turn on the lights, but that seems like overkill.
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Driving my new to me 2010 Super Duty this morning in the dark and noticed that the mirror controls are not illuminated. Is this normal or are they suppose to have illumination?
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I have an 04 GLI 1.8T 6speed. It is very clear to me that the car has some hydraulic issues. I can't leave the clutch in for more than 10 seconds or it stays on the floor and I have to pull it back up with my foot. So what does this mean? (Besides the fact that I'm a double clutch king now) I couldn't wrap my head around why this was happening and thought at first it may have something to do with a hole in the Slave Cylinder that is allowing air into the lines. Neither confirmed nor denied yet.
My other problem I have is that my car is losing brake fluid at about a quart every 3 weeks. I'm no expert but that is alarmingly fast, and it is getting worse by the month. When driving I get the error message of STOP and my brake light flashes, which is how I know it is low. I can't locate the leak but I do see a drip coming from somewhere behind the drivers side front tire, relatively close to the firewall. I don't know if I have a broken brake fluid line that is dripping down, or if something else could be broken that is causing the leak.
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I have a leak in my rear wiper fluid line on my GTI. When I use the rear washer, I get a pool of fluid in the driver side taillight and under the rear seats. I'm getting some fluid in the rear driver side headliner as well so the break must be there. First step is to pull the headliner.
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I think my auto-dimming mirror is leaking its magic fluid. [URL].................................. I guess it's just a sign that the car is getting old.
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Was bleeding my brakes and clutch. Using a power bleeder and it seems as though I put a little too much pressure into the system. The Slave cylinder's green rubber boot filled with brake fluid and began leaking a little. Did I blow a seal? Is this normal with pressure like that? I feel like pushing the clutch in would give more pressure than my little hand pump gives...
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I recently have been running into some problems with my 03 jetta 2.0. Last night as I was driving home my radio start to turn off followed by ABS, airbag and battery lights coming on and then lights on the dashboard were dimming followed by headlights going out for a few secs then returning on but dim. I stopped in my drive way to open door and when I tried to press the accelerator, my car completely died.
Over the past 2 weeks or so I have had to change the fuel pump and the alternator because i thought that was the problem. I noticed when i first had problems the fuel pump wasn't charging so i changed that. then days later my car started to completely die when I tried to start it(not turning over, no lights no nothing). i tried a new battery it would still die. So I installed a new alternator. My car worked fine for about a week-week and a half before last night.
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