My battery frozed because I never take it and it just doesn't charge enough when I do.
Now I took it in, charging. When I took it in it was in good condition, no cracks, no frost/ice
Now, after about 1/2 hour of charging it's all frosted and the connectors of the battery also...it is inside in my room at about 19C and charging at 6 amps.
I've got a problem with the girlfriends golf. Last month she tried to start it and the battery was flat. Didn't think much to it as it was a very old battery and the car had been sitting idle for a few weeks. Swapped the battery for a new one and it started fine. She's been driving it since then until Yesterday when the battery went flat again. The car will start if bumped and when it does the battery light goes out on the dash and the headlights etc. work at full brightness but it doesn't seem to charge the battery. I checked the Battery voltage when it wouldn't start and it was just under 12. With the engine running it only goes up to about 12.6 which I know is too low. I've read a few posts about one of the wires from the back of the alternator causing it not to charge but I can't understand why the battery light would go out when it starts?
View 3 Replies2002 VW golf with monsoon radio, 150,000miles. Was driving, volume went out and smoke came out of tape player. next day battery was dead. had car jump started and battery was dead by end of day. tried to jump start again but battery did not charge. took to mechanic and said it was bad battery. battery replaced and car worked fine for 2 days (stereo still dead). car didnt start on 3rd day, mechanic now says alternator is fine but car had multiple short circuits and need new dashboard and other parts. looking at over $1100 in repairs, asked if i could just unplug stereo and run car and he said no. am I better off junking this car?
View 5 RepliesFirst time owning a VW (Nissan guy but got love for the VW). So I am having 3 issues
1. This is the major issue. My battery is not charging. I have replaced both Alternator and Battery so i know the issue isnt there. I took it to an import shop (I can't diagnose electrical issues to save my life) they told me the positive terminal cable needs to be swapped out. Before I put down money for the part and swap it out I wanted to know if this sounds correct (or at least like a possible solution)
2. While driving the turn signal clicking sound will randomly come on from 5 seconds - 2 mins and then turn off. Some days its worse some days it's not.
3. I think this is a solenoid issue but maybe I am wrong. For about a week the car would not shift to the next gear unless RPM's hit 6k. I mean I would have to floor it to get the thing to shift to the next gear. It shifts down fine. I haven't had the issue in a few weeks but I would rather take care of it if possible.
These are all electrical issues and it would be awesome if they all were related but i'm honestly only concerned about the first one as I can deal with the annoyance of the second 2. This is my first VW and so far me and my family love it.
I've noticed on a few recent cold mornings that there is frost on the INSIDE of my windshield as well as on the outside. I've had this car a couple of years, and this has never happened before with it.. or for that matter with any other car I've ever had. Why is this happening, and what can I do to prevent it from happening again? And if it does, how best do I get the frost off the inside of the windshield? The scraper doesn't work on the slight curvature.
View 14 RepliesI just got a 2004, it did have a bad 12V battery which I did replace, still not charging.But First it is making a loud noise under the hood sounds like towards the right side.when I accelerate starts at 18 to 20 miles per hour. Tried sitting still with car in gear and pushing accelerator can not get it to make the noise that way, without the wheels rotating.
View 17 RepliesI don't own a Prius, but my parents own two identical 2002 models (each with 120k miles).
My mother's car wasn't driven for nearly a month (hip replacement), and when they tried to start it last week, the ready light would blink 3 times - but no cranking.
After taking it to the dealer, they were quoted $4600 to replace the traction battery and ECU. We did the mandatory research on rebuilt batteries, but with only a vague diagnosis from the dealer, we were not convinced that this was the (only) problem.
So, my brother and I decided to swap the ECU, then the battery from my father's working Prius to my mother's - thereby proving the issue. Upon removing the 'dead' battery from mother's car, I decided to open the module, and check each battery. We measured anywhere from 3.0 to 6.4V on the individual cells - and 7.0V to 11V on the paired cells. It was clear that the batteries had discharged unevenly. The total charge remaining was about 151V - still above the 40% SOC minimum I'd read about.
We then bought 5 x 10A chargers from Walmart, and connected each to a pair of modules. Set the charge to rapid (10A) and waited 30 minutes (or until the charger indicated full). After 2 hours, all 19 pair were charged fully - with each reporting 15.7V +/- 0.5V. The total power was about 295V.
We reassembled the battery, re-installed it, and the car started immediately. We let it sit running, until it cycled off on its own. About 5 min later, the ICE fired again to charge the 12V battery - but it threw a P3006 error code. It showed a PS + MAIN + battery icon on the MFD. Using an OBDII scan tool, we cleared the error, and drove the car for a few miles. The error code did not return during that drive - but did one more time after letting it cycle off/on automatically. After clearing the code a second time, it never repeated again.
My assumption is that the 300V HV charge was above the 80% SOC and it didn't like that. But after a few cranking cycles, and the tendency for the battery to discharge back to it's rated output, the error no longer repeated.
Is there anyway to charge a couple of batt cells by running the car.
Just replaced 2 packs and there voltage is 2-3 volts lower than the rest of the batt packs? the ones replaced are at 14.5 to 15 where the others are at 17-18 volts.
Have a 2009 with 25K on it, purchased in April when they were practically giving them away. Recently did an oil change and got snow tires, then left my husband in car with heat on for 20+ minutes, and now mileage is in the 30's and the battery isn't charging itself or regenerating. What could be going on?
View 6 RepliesI have got Prius 2004. I have got a problem. With MFD. It's showing the screen where it should show that the battery is charging but it's not showing the charging at all. Car is running fine and starts as normal. I have changed the 12V battery but it's still not showing the charging.
View 6 RepliesRight now my husband and I are driving from San Luis Obispo Ca to LA and back in a day. We noticed right before the grape vine on the I5 that the engine was really working, even on flat ground. Looked at the battery and it was purple. We have been driving for about 2 hours averaging about 70mph on mostly flat land. The battery finally charged itself on the big downhill of the grapevine (I5) but we're noticing we're running right through it again unless we start to break more. So, it's not getting any recharge during driving, just breaking. Can it be the generator? What causes this?
View 5 RepliesRecently we went on trip requiring a 3 hour ferry ride. Decided to keep it in READY to listen to the stereo and maintain a minimal level of heat. I noticed the engine kicking on and no arrows from or to anywhere. The HV battery gauge was mostly down to 2-3 bars but still no arrows. There were times that it kicked on and the arrows showed the batteries being charged too. Was the engine kicking on without charging just to maintain the engine coolant temp to provide heat for the cabin, or what?
View 4 RepliesMeant to post this for a while but on both the Prii C's I have owned, I mostly only see the arrow on the HSI going towards the battery and not the other way to assist the engine. My wife watched it while I drove the last 2 days and it never went to the engine except when driving in EV.
On my regular size Prius I had, I saw it going to the engine way more than the C,
I was wondering how I would charge my gen 1 battery cells and balance them with my IMAX b6 lipro battery charger. Every time I try to charge it or hook it up the thing keeps saying "input vol error". Now I don't know if that means I need a different ac adapter since I'm now using a 19.5 v laptop charger and most of the time they use a 12v ac adapter.
Most of the cells have a reading under 6v but we have 38 new cells coming in today. How we can balance them with this charger because I know it has a balance charge setting for the lithium batteries. That has a separate plug though. Should we just put the cells closest to their voltages and have them balanced that way?
My 01 Prius is not charging the 12V battery and I have error code P3001. Everyone on here said P3001 is the HV battery ECU. (which I replaced with one from the Junk Yard and still get the error code)
I charged the 12V battery over night and Autozone says that its ok. They tested it with a little machine. The only other thing I can think of is that the Inverter DC-DC converter part is bad. How I can test that? (is there a way other than replace the inverter?)
My dad's Gen III has been sitting garaged for almost a year now, and of course the 12 volt battery is dead. Firstly, it's sitting in a one car garage, and secondly I have a Gen II so a straight jump isn't possible. I have a trickle charger that should be able to bring the 12 volt back up in 15-19 hours, but here's my question:
Maybe I'm being lazy, but I'd rather not deal with climbing in the back to release the hatch and running an extension cord so I can get the charger close enough to hook straight up to the battery..
I have an 05 prius with 108k miles that I bought about 3 months ago. I had noticed some times during phase 1 warm up where prius is in park and ice is charging the battery there will be mildly violent jerking of the car.
I was messing around the other morning, after driving the car about 30 minutes then letting it sit for about an hour in 40 degree f weather. I readied the car and it started charging the battery. While still in park i pressed the gas pedal to see what would happen. The mfd showed no arrows which I assume is normal. But when I let off the gas pedal there was a abrupt jerking as the mfd showed power flowing from the ice to the battery again.
Experienced jerkiness while in phase 1? After phase 1 is complete I do not notice any more of this behavior.
As I'm not driving my car, will leaving the engine idle for an hour:
1. charge the battery sufficiently each few days?
2. run the battery down
3. cause problems as no revving/load bearing on engine
First a little background on the car , it has 217,000 miles. The battery was just replaced with a used one. While taking it through the carwash, she put it in neutral and a minute or two later she got a warning that the battery was not charging and to put it in gear. Sounds like the battery is having issues to me. She has a 60-day warranty.
View 10 RepliesI just bought a 2012 Prius c. There are oftentimes when I don't drive my car for a few days. When this happens, I have heard that the car might not start, especially in the winter. Is this true?
View 7 RepliesBattery symbol light appeared on dash, After determining battery was good, I removed alternator and took it to have it bench tested at the parts store. It tested bad so I purchased a rebuilt alternator and had it bench tested before I left the store and it tested good. I installed it and it won't charge the battery. Tried a new battery...same thing. I tested the voltage at the battery and it reads 12.3 and the same with engine running. Engine runs until battery is drained. I removed the alternator and took it to a different store and they bench tested it good also!
View 8 Replies