So my check enginr light has been on for a while saying "po411" "insufficient air flow" but dont know where the vacuum leak is coming from. But today I was working under my car and saw this "hose" that is connected to the air pump looks like it's leaking??
View 3 RepliesI recently purchased a 2000 Accord coupe v6 with 180k on the clock. I've noticed the gas mileage isn't what it should be. The check engine light was on when I bought it turns out it was a p0401 code. I was told at the dealership insufficient egr flow would cause the car to run rich. So I figured that's what is killing my gas mileage. Well after cleaning the egr port, replacing the egr valve, changing the spark plugs and changing the oil there is no improvement.
View 7 RepliesI have a 98 Honda Accord, automatic, with a 3.0 VTEC engine with 189,350 miles. It was diagnosed with cod P0401: EGR insufficient flow detected.I was told and apparently in the instructions it states the following to repair/fix the problem:
Unplug the EGR Port in the Intake, remove upper portion of Intake Manifold, drill EGR port, install Sleeve and replace EGR Valve. Instructions also indicated I need a EGR Pipe kit: 06175 P8L-A00 which contains a special tool to drill manifold and install Sleeve: Kit 07ZAO-P8AA000.
Is this a easy job? I'm also confused about needing the special tool (I believe it's a drill bit) and drilling the port. Are either one of these two Kits I mentioned really needed? What do you recommend I use to clean the port? I thought I could just clean the port (hole) and replace the manifold gasket.
1997 Ford F150. 6cyl, 4.2L 138K. Have CEL on and code reads: "P401 - EGR Flow insufficient". I replaced the EGR valve and checked the ports leading into them and they seem clean. There is one additional component called "EGR feedback sensor" which I really don't want to replace unless I can determine that this is faulty.
View 1 RepliesMy '96 4L developed the infamous P0401 insufficient EGR gas flow code 6 months ago. Rough running. Forgot to license it, now the St. Emissions Test was due before I could get new tabs issued. Finally got some warm dry weather to work on it. Started with the electrical measurements per DPFE graph of EGR flow vs electrical output to the PCM.
Showed the DPFE sensor failed, low V output max 2v. The old OEM aluminum body DPFE sensor was still in the old girl after 16 years. Corroded internally and ext., one hose nipple almost corroded off. Eureka. Put in a new Motorcraft plastic body upgrade. Same darn code.
Retested everything from the EGR vacuum valve that feeds the EGR valve to the new DPFE and then the EGR tube from the exhaust pipe. All tested ok electrically and leak wise. No fresh air leaks in the EGR V or EGR tube.
All pointed to restriction in EGR gas flow when PCM demanded it. Ran small stainless steel wire down the upper EGR tube line nipple to the EGR orifice trying to clear carbon build up, still the same P0401. Poured several cups of paint store acetone down each EGR tube hose with engine off and at 2k rpm to emulsify and dissolve the exhaust carbon out. Engine vacuum sucked the acetone up thru the EGR valve also cleaning it internally.
Let set overnight and took out for test drive. Still P0401. Almost ready to drive the green beast to the crusher of death.
Poured more acetone in the EGR and let set for 2 days prepared for the emissions station test failure then repair at emissions cert. shop with a shop waiver for no effective repair. Decided that the EGR tube or EGR valve were leaking fresh air, rusted and corroded. The end nuts on the tube were rusted away. EGR tube NLA from any source.
Went to the emissions test today and passed flying colors. NO P0401, drove all day on business. Got relicensed.
The old girl runs and drives like a dream, she's actually parked and sleeping in the garage tonight all pretty and shiny with a wash and wax job, got a reprieve from the Jaws of Death
I just got a Check Engine light on yesterday. I went to Autozone and got an OBD-II Trouble Code: P0401, Insufficient EGR Flow Insufficient. The Autozone guy showed me an EGR valve for $164 and said it maybe blocked or something. I also checked with a friend who says that as long as the engine is not overheating it should be okay for driving for now.
So the far the car runs just fine, I haven't experienced any issues out of normal. Does the code mean the value need to be replaced?
1997 F150. 6Cyl, 4.2L, 139K miles. The truck threw a P401 code(EGR Flow insufficient)and won't pass emmisions here (due by the end of March). So far this is what
I've done : Replaced EGR, replaced DPFE, replaced EVR solenoid, removed throttle body manifold under EGR and cleaned all ports (they weren't even dirty), cleaned and checked all vacumn lines from the DPFE to the main EGR tube from exhaust. Also cleaned the main EGR exhaust tube.
Everything is squeaky clean. All voltages going to the DPFE/EGR are spot on and the whole system seems OK. But the P401 code literally comes on almost immediately (less than 2 miles) after clearing the code (I hooked up my scanner to see how long).
EGR insufficient flow. EGR valve was pretty bad looking seemed a bit sticky when opened so I replaced it along with gasket. Reset the computer but check engine light came back on code p0401 again. I know you can test by pinching the yellow striped hose at the throttle body to see if the solenoid is bad. The engine will stumble a bit when you pinch it closed, or so I am told. However when I pinch the hose, nothing happens. I do notice that the car does idle kind of roughly.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 Ford Ranger 3.0L engine, 2 wheel drive, with automatic transmission. Check engine light came on about 3 months ago. checked with scanner and P0401 EGR flow insufficient came up. cleared it and it came back. truck seems to be running fine. I didn't take autoshop as a kid, so i probably will need a little hand holding on this one.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2002 F-150 that is showing a code indicating "EGR insufficient flow". I replaced the EGR valve and cleared the light/code, but the "check engine light" keeps coming back on and code indicates the same problem. What may be causing the light to keep coming on, even after replacing the EGR valve?
View 14 Replies1996 Toyota camry le 4 cylinders has code po401 does it damage engine what will it do. Insufficient exhaust flow...
View 3 RepliesMy 2001 F-150 came up with this code and I changed the EGR valve cleared the code and it returned 15 miles later. The truck only has 30K miles and the warranty expired 24 May.
View 14 RepliesDreaded insufficient EGR flow. I've read I should clean the EGR ports.
I can't really find where these are? I took the throttle body off.
What I should do with this thing? I also get a hesitation on initial take off.
1999 F150 4.2 V6 ... 160k miles on it. Runs good otherwise.
Has a P0401 code EGR unSufficient flow. Ive read several things that it could be, from a DPFE sensor to the EGR valve it's self our that the port going into the TB could be plugged. Truck drives fine does not have a miss or anything noticeable when driving other than the CEL, trucks a 4.6 with 200k on it. Forgot to mention it sometimes gets a P0455 code but i assumed that is gas cap. or could it be related?
View 7 RepliesI got an 0401 EGR Flow Insufficient last week. I cleared it and it showed up again after a couple of days. I replaced the EGR Valve and the 0401 reappeared. I replaced the DPFE and the code did not reappear. Great!
About a week later, I got an 0402 EGR Flow Excessive. New EGR Valve. New DPFE. The hoses to and from the DPFE to the tube look decent. They don't appear to have any build up inside. Code 0401 or 0402 to the tube?
My first instinct is to replace the EGR valve again, assuming the one AutoZone gave me is stuck open. Is there any servicing I can do to it first? Like maybe soak it in carburetor cleaner? Or spray it with WD-40?
I just bought a 1997 ford f-150 4x4 with 4.6 motor. the check engine light came on. My diagnostic tool reads code 401 (egr insufficient flow). I've replaced on the parts on the egr side of engine. light still on. could it be a leak in the vacuum lines. I don't see any wear.
View 4 RepliesI am preparing to combat the old P0401, Insufficient flow issue. While looking at the steps in Alldatadiy the very first decision essentially forks on "EGR System Module" or "Others".
I am just guessing that, since the choice is there, some engines will have one and some will have the other. But I thought I'd come here and see if I could learn a little more about it.
How can I tell what my truck has? I'm sure there is some difference...
02 Jetta GLS ... 1.8 Liter Turbo ... 5 speed manual
Threw a lot of codes I don't know the #s but I can get them tomorrow, but I know there was a throttle pedal sensor, cam sensor, MAF, turbo, and a computer one.
I've had the car 2 weeks and its driven fine every day until today I backed out of my drive way after doing some driving earlier in the day and popped it into first and she fell on her face, no power rpm's were near 300. shut it off start it back up idles a little rough and I have a traction control light CEL and EPC lights all on. when I first take off it chugs and is hard to even get going and then it takes miles to get up to speed. I can put the pedal to the metal and my rpms barely budge and the car ever so slowly gains speed, she eventually will top out around 70. but that's after quite a stretch.
This happened one other time and after a few minutes everything went back to normal for nearly a week , this time no such luck.
Possibilities to shoot down maybe?
-fuel filter/system
-Cat. converter
-MAF sensor
-Coil packs
-computer something??
-throttle body
-turbo
-electrical
The truck in question is a 2004 6.0L Excursion, stock original turbo, no tunes, and EGR cooler delete done 1 year ago. Scanned for codes and none were found except for EGR insufficient flow P0401 code which is due to the EGR cooler delete.
Upon startup (no issues there) the VGT reads 67-70, now once the truck goes to high idle to warm up (1150 or so RPM) the VGT slowing climbs to 85 and stays there. If I blimp the throttle or step on the brake it goes back to 67-70 at normal idle. This has been happening for a few months now on a regular basis. I have checked the MAP, BARO, and EBP readings at KOEO and they are all within 0.6 of each other (14.4-15.0). The EBP tube was checked and cleaned (no buildup present)..
I am having a overheating issue with my 1.8t AWP gti, it goes as fallows, start the car, engine warms up go for a drive (short 5-8 mi), park the car and temp gauge starts to rise, (turns off car)... I began to check some things with the system, I checked both rad hoses bottom is hot top is a bit hotter and fans work when ac is on; here is where it gets interesting i took off the coolant return hose on the reservoir (cold start) and nothing was flowing ...water pump?... So i turned the heat on and air full blast and all of a sudden coolant starts to flow.
It also seems like air is being spat out as well. Soon after the flow beginning my coolant in the reservoir starts to fluctuate (rising and dropping) with air bubbles and beginnings to over flow so i shut the car off. Now I know what the possible issues are its either the water pump, air in the system or bad autozone thermostat. Here is some history of the car TB was replaced at 70,000 by Previous owner, i bought the car had the belt inspected and was told it was good, about 2 months ago i had a coolant leak and had it misdiagnosed as a thermostat housing leak; it turns out it was a coolant bypass hose that was leaking so i ended up fixing it. I lost a lot of coolant but topped it off with g12+. My mechanic doesn't think its the water pump and recommended changing the thermostat for an VW one another mechanic recommended to bleed air of the system.
The Symptoms: Car decided not to turn over for my son one morning, when I came home I tried with my key and the engine did turn over but immediately died.
Turned on key to power and watched for lights like the immobilizer/key but that came on and went off no problems there, did the same with both keys and the immobilizer/security key light went off fine.
Read for codes and there was a P0320 which pointed to Crankshaft Position Sensor. Order the part from good old Rock Auto and 2 days later it came, installed, cleared out the code, tried to start, did not start.
Decided to spray some starter fluid into the throttle body to get it to turn over in hopes a new code would come out.
It did fire up for a few seconds and did throw another code, this time P0321. That code points to the same sensor I just replaced.
Figured I would check to ensure the fuel pump and relay were working so I wired from positive and negative battery terminal to the outer plug clips at the fuel pump and I heard and felt it click. Not sure if it should prime and make more than just a click.
In my other cars you can clealy hear it prime for more than a second so not sure if the fuel pump is really the culprit here.
The car has 125K and the pump is original I can see.
I did check the relay fuse under the drivers side dash and I can feel/hear it click when I turn the ignition on.
I also did check all of the various fuses in the side compartment that have to do with the engine, they all look good and tested with multimeter as well.
So now I did order a new fuel pump, what else to try out? I did change the fuel filter at 100K so do not believe that is causing the issue. Not sure if the fuel regulator by the rail could be an issue.
It seems like all of a sudden fuel is not being delivered and with faulty injectors or plugs, they throw a code for misfire etc. Also starter seems to be fine, no griinding/smoke etc but was thinking about taking it out and over to Advance to have them check as well.