Found some cracks in the outside of my driveshaft. 2002 Jetta 1.8T 5-Speed Manual.
Part number: 1J0 407 271 GJ
I'm guessing it's just rust/age. Honestly, I don't even know if this need to be replaced. CV boots are in perfect condition, now cracks or leaks whatsoever.
From what I've read, the procedure for removing and replacing the drive shaft involves pulling the upper ball joints and tie rod end from the steering knuckle--is it possible to put a floor jack below the lower arm (the load runs to the spring through the lower arm) and undo the lower ball joint to get the clearance required to remove the shaft?
View 9 RepliesI have a Jetta with 130,000 miles. At around 35-50mph during acceleration, I can feel a wobble that would seem to be coming from the driver side drive train. I don't hear any noise with this just the wobble/vibration.
Never wrecked, 5spd manual. If I am not accelerating or putting stress on the drive train, the wobble stops.
I am guessing it could be bad tranny mount, I've looked at it put some hand force on it and jiggled it around a bit and mount seems to have a little bit of play not sure if that's normal if i really try the mount it moves back and forth very little movement but some and if i can move it easily I am sure the engine can beat it up
ALSO my axle came out or broke recently so replaced it with one from advanced auto parts also another possible culprit.
I have a 73 F100 with a 9" rear end. I need to replace the drivers side axle shaft as the bearing retainer is starting to slide off and I'm not willing to take a chance a new bearing and retainer will do it again. They are 31 spline axles and have the ball bearings not the tapered rollers.
What year trucks can I find a replacement axle shaft? Any other thing I should be aware of in finding a replacement?
Had the common problem of ARB rubbing the drive shaft after I lowered an extra 15mm - It didn't rub before I went this extra 15mm. I got adjustable drop links on and they also didn't work. I basically told the garage to sort it out and they put standard drop links back on (not genuine) and also new wishbones because I needed them. Got my car back and the rubbing was even worse. So I raised it back up the 15mm, to where it was before the rubbing started, yet it's still rubbing like crazy. I'm wondering if the new wishbones may be causing this because of new bushings or something and it all being tighter. And also what am I supposed to do? I shouldn't have to buy a whiteline ARB because it wasn't rubbing at this ride height before the wishbones and drop links were changed.
To summarize:
>Lowered car extra 15mm, rubbing started
>Drop links and wishbones changed, rubbing is worse
>Raised back to the point where rubbing started and still rubbing just as badly.
So I was pulling out of the parking lot at work in first gear going about 10mph when I heard a loud clang and lost power to the wheels, I just had the car towed home and its dark out so i haven't gotten a chance to really take a good look.
My question is, how did this happen? the car is lowered on coils. I also Installed a B&M short shiftier about 3 weeks ago, i doubt it but could that have anything to do with this?
Car has been making da da da da da noise from the rear for the past week or 2. The noise is consistent with the wheel speed and I can heard it clearly when I am next to barrier or a truck or something the sound will pounce off it. I drop the car off, later they told me the drive shaft is vibrating a lot and it might go.
View 8 RepliesI am driving a 95 ranger xlt extended cab with a 3.0 two wheel drive with an automatic transmission. the two piece drive shaft with the carrier bearing went bad at the bearing. i separate the u-joint just after the bearing and was going to remove the nut holding the bearing housing together but cannot get the nut off. now i'm also finding out that i need a bearing puller to remove the damaged bearing from the 1st drive shaft.
Its turning into something i may not be able to finish. i saw on line an idea where a guy replaced the 2 piece shaft with a one piece. he states that a 1 piece drive shaft, 1998 or newer would work and no need for this bearing. you have to remove the cross member. it sound easier than what i'm trying to do. i looked at some old posts and galleries but did not see an article. here is a link to his website: How-To: Swapping a 2-Piece Drive Shaft for a 1-Piece in a 1983-1997 Ford Ranger
What Spicer Part #s for the rear u-joints would be? I'm not nailing down the right one. I keep finding numerous ones, 1410, 1350, 5-160....
View 8 Replieshow hard is it to replace the U-joint at the differential side of the shaft on an 04 FX4? Any special tools needed? At low speed (5-10mph) sounds like someone tapping on the rear end with a ball peen hammer, I guess it is the u-joints.
View 2 RepliesIs it possible to be able to Drive an R with the drivers side rear caliper bolts missing?
View 6 Repliesso my r32 recently started making a nasty popping noise. the sound seems to either be coming from something in the rear end or drive shaft. not sure why it happened. i went on a 2 hour trip. got there parked it. aired it down (bags) but then when i came back and when to drive it again. it all of a sudden it started making a horrible popping noise. i thought it was the front wheel bearing going out since i knew it need to be replaced but i did that today and its still making the noise.
The noise sound just like a RWD car with a welded diff when it turns. kinda has that locked rear end hop popping noise. i lifted the whole car off the ground and put it in first to let the tires spin in the air but of course theres no weight on them so it doesn't make any noise. i'm really stumped on what it could be. im going to take the driveshaft off and see if it still dose it. then i know its for sure in the rear end. What it could be?
i have a strange leak under my driverside, im not sure if its an oil leak or what.
View 6 RepliesGot a mk4 golf tdi 51 plate i have noticed water in drivers foot well.
Dried out the carpet and underlay siliconed the bonnet release cable gromet and the electrical box next to it. the drains on both sides under the scuttle panel are clear. 1 week later the water is back again i noticed when i washed the car that there was foam on the top of the scuff panel on the in side of the car and on the seat adjuster.
Is my door seal gone? There is no water anywhere else in the car just at the drivers side foot well. at the wear pad area under the pedals. 3 door no sun roof.....
I left my the car sitting for a week out in heavy rain and came back to find that the driver side floor was soaked. After searching around I seem to have found the entry point. It seems like all of the water is pouring in from my hood release lever area which I find strange. I put a towel down last night during two hours of rain and came back to find the towel almost fully soaked through. I read other threads on this but the results were inconclusive. Could it be the lower or upper windshield seals? Door seals? Another problem I'm having is water leaking from my dome light buttons after a heavy rain. I assume this is a problem with the sunroof seal, but whenever I search around it feels dry?
View 8 RepliesAs I was loading a bag into the back of my GTI, I noticed water running down the drivers side. It seems to be coming out of where the driver's side back seat belt holder is. It's leaking down into the little compartment as well. Don't know the extent of the damage yet as I haven't had any time to look, The interior ceiling of the car is dry. Leaking into the side compartment as well...
View 3 RepliesI finally got rid of my 2.0 and upgraded to the Vr6 5-speed. The other day my driver side rear door just came open. I tried closing it but it just bounce back open. I tried those methods of YouTube to see if that works but still nothing. Now i had to tie my door shut and experience my car not being locked completely. My alarm would go off and everytime i drive my car, i have to deal with that annoying ding the car makes when the doors are open.
View 1 RepliesI started to notice a slight vibration coming from my front end on the drivers side last week and now is pretty loud. It increases with acceleration, fades slightly when turning left, and goes away almost entirely when turning right. Tie rods seem fine. The inner and outer cv boots are torn but have been that way for some time.
View 4 RepliesSo after the long saga of trying to get my 03gti VR6 running, I have come across the STRANGEST behavior I have ever seen in a car. Here's a little background. Two weeks ago driving in a snowstorm my car started sputtering and then died. Left me stranded on the side of the road. Towed it to my buddies house (he's a master tech for Lexus) and tried to figure out what was going on. It wasn't throwing any codes. I replaced the fuel pump relay and that didn't fix anything. Then I noticed the fuel pump wasn't priming when I opened the door. So I replaced the fuel pump. Now it primes when you open the door. Got it started, but it wouldn't stay running for more than 10 seconds, it was acting like it was running out of gas. Even tried disconnectig the battery and touched the pos and neg together. Still to no avail.
After a week of trying to figure it out, I tried starting it with the door closed. Now the damn thing runs. BUT. Here's the strange thing. It will only run if the drivers door is closed. If you open the door, it kills the power to the fuel pump. If you leave the door open, it'll eventually die after roughly 10'secs. If you get out and close the door, it'll stay running. I'm guessing when you close the door it starts sending power to the fuel pump again. Everything else works. Power windows, door locks, mirrors, ect. The local vw shop in town said it might be a bad door switch or the CCM. But the lights come on when you open the door and go off when you shut it. Fuel pump primes when you open the door.
Someone knocked off my driver's side mirror the other day. I need to replace the entire thing as the metal bracket inside is broken. The parts have already been ordered and I know that in order to replace it I have to take off the door panel, but I honestly know nothing about how to do that.
View 2 RepliesRecently my car has had a hollow clunking noise and it seems to be coming from the drivers front side. It doesn't really make the noise if I hit a pothole or something in the road. It does it when I'm driving down a bumpy road or sometimes even a smooth road. I thought it was my top strut mounts and bearings. I replaced them and the noise went away for about 2 weeks but it seems to be back. I was thinking maybe sway bar bushings? Could my new parts I just installed be bad already?
View 3 Replies