Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Losing Boost / Power At High RPMs In High Gear
Nov 11, 2014
2003 jetta gls 1.8t 5spd - gts stage 1 tune(gonzo stage 2)
tt 2-1/2" downpipe with high flow cat
turbo smart splitter valve(set to divert only)
turbo inlet pipe
homemade intake with k&n filter
stock n75 valve (f)
So in first through 3rd gear my car gets 20psi of boost then at 3,500 ish rpm smoothly starts to lower down to 15psi. but in forth and 5th gear the boost drops faster, enough so the diverter valve actually opens. then the boost will bounce up and down, around 15psi. the car still accelerates but with obvious power loss.
Is my diverter valve not "firm" enough? it is adjustable, so I've tightened it as much as it can. it doesn't seem to change anything. it came with spring spacers to make it tighter, but I haven't tried that yet.
Is it something with the tune? not enough fuel, need bigger injectors? The problem is only at about 100mph, so its not a big deal. I would like to get it straightened out if possible.
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I have a 2002 gti with an apt software tune. Whenever I'm on the interstate in 5th gear for a while. And I'll start to speed up. Once 4k kicks in. My boost no longer works when it normally pushes like 22psi. Then after slowing down. No matter what gear I'm in. It limits back to 10psi of boost and once I hit 4k. It goes super slow and boost won't work. I'm not sure what else I should get to restore my car to perform fully.
I'm currently on the factory ko3 turbo and the previous owner had nitrous hookups and lines to the motor.
I'm already 3k into fixing it. Needed new shift cables and a fresh transmission
I'm hoping to push about 250hp maybe 300hp
The boost problem is fixed once I turn the car off and back on. I just want it to work again without having to spend an arm and leg on parts and labor. My mechanic works at Volkswagen dealership. But isn't allowed to work on my car due to dealership policies about working on vehicles older than 10 years old. The guy who tuned my car professionally at an apr shop told me that I should get a smoke test done (idk where or how to do that) for my vacuum lines and that I have a cylinder 4 misfire. It may be a bad coil or spark plug. But I'd like to get some performance out of my car and I don't know what else or where to start.
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I have a 2002 gti with an apt software tune...
Whenever I'm on the interstate in 5th gear for a while. And I'll start to speed up. Once 4k kicks in. My boost no longer works when it normally pushes like 22psi
Then after slowing down. No matter what gear I'm in. It limits back to 10psi of boost and once I hit 4k. It goes super slowe and boost won't work
The guy told me that I should get a smoke test done (idk where or how to do that)for my vacuum lines and that I have a cylinder 4 misfire. It may be a bad coil or spark plug. But I'd like to get some performance out of my car and I don't know what else or where to start. I am new to this.
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I have a golf mk4 1.8T AGU, about one week after i had my k04-023 turbo on and all the Stuff that comes along it started "stall" (don't know if its the right word??) in the High gears, most 5th gear but it first start doing it when i hit boost (3000rpm)
I runs on Stock n75 valve.. I though i could be a boost problem, maybe the Stock system cant handle it? I did install a boost gauge to see if it was the was the problem, and it dont Seem like it. In first it runs from 1.4 bar and drops to 1.2. Same in second and third. But in 4 and 5th it goes to 1.7 bar and drops to 1.4.. I did wonder it maybe the n75 valve cant handle 1.7 bar??
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I'm having a strange, very high-pitched, noise that seems to be coming from my turbo or (possibly) somewhere else in the engine bay. It sounds very screechy, and it may be paranoia, but I believe it also may have a slight metallic sound to it.
It all started yesterday after changing the thermostat housing for the third time in 2 days (autozone sold me a faulty, warped, housing that leaked after install). During this repair the engine never overheated (it did however leak fluid and go a little low) and the main point for replacement was a stuck thermostat. After finally getting it fixed I took it for a test drive and noticed the horrid noise after hitting a good amount of boost (no gauge installed). The noise occurs when boosting and doesn't happen when spooling in the 3k-4k range. I had no hint of the noise before this.
There doesn't seem to be any drop in performance and it still pulls hard. Hoping this to be a loose exhaust connection or boost leak. May be spooling sound escaping.
Mods:
- short ram air intake with an aem filter
- 3" turbo-back exhausted
- revo chipped
- 4 bar fpr
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I'm having a misfire issue on my 1.8t. When I go into high boost I'm getting bogged down and misfiring.
I plugged in my obd2 adapter and it gave me a misfire on cylinder 3. I since cleared the code to try and see if it was a coil pack by switching it to another cylinder, but now the cel won't come back on although the problem persists.
I have recently changed the plugs and the car was fine. I then added a fuel injector treatment and the misfire started shortly afterwards. (coincidence perhaps). It's frustrating as I can't rule out coil packs as my cel won't come back on and my code reader is not displaying any faults.
I did previously have a cel with something about fuel trim bank 3? I am also sure I have a boost leak as the car whistles pretty loud under boost.
Also worth mentioning I have a bit of white smoke sometimes but I'm not using oil or coolant and they are not mixing either. I'm at the end of my tether with this car and just want to try get it back to normal.
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I understand how the waste gate is supposed to work at high rpms / boost.
I believe that as long as I keep the max boost down, that I can run with the waste gate plugged in order to goose the power a little in the 2000-28000 RPM range. Since the truck is stock and there's no intention of running higher RPMs, it seems like plugging the waste gate is a good idea. I just want to make sure that I'm not missing something.
It appears that the wast gate also opens when at idle and possibly when you let off the throttle. Are these important functions of the waste gate as well?
Here's a chart showing waste gate operation...
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2011 6.7 with 3.55 gearing. Just got the truck. And it seems when its cold the truck will rev high in 3rd gear and then sort of fall into 4th gear sort of losing power for a split second. If I gas it hard, its not as bad. Usually only happens like I said when its cold. Check the trans fluid its full and looks clean. My guess is some sort of sensor or the computer???
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I have a 3inch cat back exhaust, cold air intake, and a stage 1 apr tune. I just installed a front mount intercooler. When I spool my turbo in 1st gear the car loses all power at 4 grand and just bogs out after that. Rpms keep climbing but the speed doesn't move. What's going on?!
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I have been looking around for some boost information. I have come across a few threads that have boost graphs, but the images are no longer available. I have tried to get a hold of some of the posters, but no luck.
I only recently hooked up a boost gauge and have been monitoring my boost more. I had a slight feeling before I hooked it up that I was losing a little boost at higher rpms. Between 4500-5000 my boost drops from 18 to 15 and then from 5000-6000 it drops to about 10. I know it's sometimes normal for boost to drop at top end, but I'm not quite certain it's supposed to be that much.
I installed the Spulen Boost Pipe Kit hoping it may make some type of difference, but it's the same. What it might be? I have checked all my pipes as best as possible, but couldn't find anything.
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I got vw golf 2000 tdi , I never had a problem with it, the other day I was driving on high speed just about to over take my car slow dawn it was feel like there no turbo, in low gears is fine but if u go over 70 mph it won't go, but soon is u switch off the engine and start again it will come back to normal ??
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I don't own a VW, but my friend does, and she knows absolutely nothing about cars. She drove me home from a friend's house today, and I noticed her car was sitting at insanely high RPMs, even though we were only going like 60-65. The car was ranging from like 4500-5200rpms the entire way home, and the engine sounded like a lawn mower.
Don't know many details on the exact model of 2002 jetta it is (I'm a subaru guy) but it's an Auto. I was convinced she had it in 3rd the entire way instead of drive. I asked and she said it was in drive, but I was sitting in the back so I couldn't quite tell. Not sure how being in 3rd works on an automatic, but she could still come to a full stop. The car was pretty much constantly sitting at above 3k whenever it wasn't at a full stop though. Like, after letting of the brake at a stop light, and pressing the gas, it'd pretty much immediately flick up to 3k and never go below.
So, not sure if this is normal for these cars, but I thought it'd be worth asking since it would suck for her if this could have been fixed earlier. My subaru sits at 3k when I hit 60, and only hits 4k if I'm going like 80, so I just thought this seemed pretty weird.
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My 2005 Jetta gli 220k miles just spurred going down the road now every time I accelerate and get into high Rpms the Ac vents start to blow harder and feels like loss of power. It's fines at idle and first gear but 2nd and up its does it I'm stumped....
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My buddies Jetta won't shift into high gear. I am going to take a look at it this saturday to find more out.
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I have a buddy with a 2006 Sonata, 3.3. It has about 138,000 miles on it.
When it gets hot, it will LEAP into gear. As if when you put it in gear, the throttle is pushed open 10% or something. Kinda like you would do with an old Ford or Chevy (like the 70's) that stalls when you put in gear. When it gets really hot, like after driving it for 30 or 40 miles, when you come to a stop, you lose the vacuum boost on the brakes, and the engine just goes on the pre-detonating rampage! It literally sounds like Dodge with Cummins diesel in it! It's fighting you while you struggle to keep it from LAUNCHING off the line. The strange thing is, as it is put back into N or P, it returns to normal instantaneously as if nothing was wrong in the first place.
My bud took it to the dealer, here is what they think it could be:
1. Clogged cats (nope, no back pressure, already checked)
2. Wrong spark plugs (it does not have the OEM direct replacement, it has some kind of dual electrode deal in it, but the part number crosses as an acceptable replacement)
3. The dealer did say that the ecm is up to date and that the throttle body is calibrated. That's what I thought it was in the first place.
In my professional opinion, I think it might be a ragged out timing belt. But I'm a domestic mechanic, not so strong with the imports (not trolling here, seriously, I work with fleets 99% of the time).
And there are no codes either.
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Purchased my 2013 Elantra GT a few months ago and have been having a problem that had stumped everyone at the dealership. Thought I'd see who else is having it and what the thoughts are. To start, this is a 6SPD Manual Transmission.
Problem: Say you're at a stop and begin accelerating in 1st gear and then shift into neutral because you have to come to a stop again. When operating normally, the RPMs immediately wind down to idle. Well for me, about 15% of the time or more, the RPMs will take up to 10-15 seconds to wind down to idle. During this time, you cannot really shift into 1st gear because the RPM are too high.
The dealership has been working on this issue since last month. They replaced some parts and it is still doing it. They got diagnostic data and told me the throttle was sticking. No one could figure it out. Engineers got involved from regional, and it got pretty heavy as far as time. After several attempts at figuring out the problem and replacing things (which didn't resolve the issue), the engineers drove another new GT and found it was also doing it. So all of a sudden they said "it's normal" and closed the case.
Chances are, if other new ones are doing it, so is yours. I got second opinions from other auto shops who said it is not at all normal and that there may be a defect in the design. I've owned 4 Manual Transmission cars and I have never seen this before. If you're curious and have the 6spd manual version of this car, the easiest and quickest way to see this happen is accelerate in 1st gear to about 4000RPM and shift into neutral. Eventually, it'll get stuck and take a significantly longer time for the RPMs to return to idle. Usually when it finally happens, it'll keep doing it for several subsequent acceleration cycles.
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I recently noticed that my Golf R was making a strange high pitched whine and it seemed like there was no boost. I took my car to the dealer, and it turns out that part of the CAI broke off (a mounting component) and made its way into the turbo, effectively destroying it.
My dealer was initially intending to cover the turbo under warranty (prior to investigation), but now that it is clear that a failure in the CAI caused the issue, they cannot (obviously) cover it under VW warranty. Unitronic CAI failure led to turbo failure.
The serviced manager did some research prior to getting back with me, and was somewhat puzzled since the Unitronic CAI displayed on their website looked slightly different from mine in that the component that failed was not there. The service manager called Unitronic and learned that the failed component was a known issue (it had apparently failed before), and thus they modified the design - hence the picture of the revised version did not match the older version that was installed on my Golf R. The Unitronic rep offered to replace the CAI - but did not mention anything about the failed turbo (when he spoke to the service manager).
I found the following thread which illustrates that this was a known issue: [URL] .... I just wish I had found out about this before it failed.
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Car started to do some weird stuff today. Misfiring under high load, as I get into boost.
Idle is around 1000-1100 RPMs. Cold start is fine, idle is normal in terms of going higher a bit, but then it sits at 1kish. This started last night after the car sat for a couple hours. Totally normal running and driving prior to this.
I've seen all the MKV threads about it that suggest everything from battery, to alternator, to grounds, to vacuum leaks, to intake leaks, to MAF.
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The symptoms are as follows.
-No change in performance, functionality, or spooling.
-Loud intermittent screeching noise when building boost above 3500 RPM
-Can only describe the sound as air escaping from a tiny hole, VERY similar to warn brakes, that kind of screech. The intermittent part I would describe as if you were tapping your brakes (and they were screeching) rapidly, so on off on off very quickly.
-Also happens when I let my foot off the gas (Also above 3500 RPM)
-Car has CTS Turbo Intake, 42DD Downpipe, and APR stage 2 software.
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I am currently stage 2, drive my car kind of aggressive on a regular basis, and now I hear a squeal under high boost, sounds like air escaping. Boost is not acting any different, I've come to the conclusion that the problem is most likely my revision D DV.
-What does failing REV D sound like???
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I have a 2000 GT with over 120K miles on it. The car works perfect, just a minor issue with O2 Sensor that I am going to replace soon
My question is, when I'm on the highway going around 70 to 90 miles on fifth gear, her RPMs are about 4K to 5K, is that normal??
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