Golf IV / Jetta IV :: MK4 GTI Exhaust Leak Or Possible Bolt Missing
Sep 23, 2014
Brief back story, a year ago my timing belt went and had to replace the cylinder head and all associated parts. No problems since then, until now. Recently the check engine has come on, and got the code for an exhaust leak. Can't remember the exact code number, but the leak wasn't causing a lean condition or causing the engine to act weird so I left it until I had to time to find the leak. On the way home today I noticed an exhaust leak that got increasingly worse to the point where at a stop light I'd go to accelerate and it would pull away very sluggishly. Got home, opened the hood and tracked down the exhaust leak to somewhere around the manifold/downpipe/turbo area. I took off my cover and noticed what could be a bolt missing, and upon further inspection a bolt that may be coming loose.
Here's what I'm referring to:
- Missing bolt?
- Loose bolt missing bolt?
- Loose bolt?
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While changing the oil on my car I noticed that a bolt was missing from the steering or suspension assembly (not really sure what its for. I was wondering what it is for and how important it is. I went to the store to get a replacement and found that the threads in the hole have all rusted out so I can't get a new bolt in. Is this something I should definitely fix before driving again or is it not too serious.
Here is link for the pictures: [URL] ....
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So i noticed i am leaking oil, not much but enought that i will have to top it up before the next oil change. The drip comes from the drain bolt, and drips off the bottom of the oil pan right under it. I have replaced the bolt and it still continues to leak. What could be the cause of this?
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Just got off the boat (offshore boat captain) and my wife has been using my truck while I was gone so it doesn't sit for forever. I made a quick trip to the hardware store for some materials and back to the house. Total drive time was about 20min. Noticed that I had a terrible shake like a weight got thrown off a wheel. When I got home and started looking at my tires I was on the passenger side front tire and noticed oil on the driveway. That's when I saw the drop.
Now I climbed under the truck and looked around and found oil all over the passenger header and starter and basically all down the passenger side of the motor. I popped the hood and and the valley was clean. Then I felt around the passenger valve cover and found a lower valve cover bolt missing. Second from rear on the bottom. My question after that long description is, can one missing bolt cause a leak bad enough to completely clean the oiled areas and start the truck and in about 1 min have clean oil dripping down? If so, when I get a bolt should I go ahead and replace the gasket?
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I'm working on a 2003 Jetta GLI 1.8t (MT and 140,000m if it matters). The CEL has been on for a couple of weeks because of an exhaust leak throwing a catalyst efficiency code. After I make this post I'm going to run down to the advance auto I used to work at & see if I can borrow the scanner to see if there's anything new, but as of right now I don't know. I'll update the thread if I find anything.
The car started yesterday AM perfectly fine. Started again when I left work around noon. No problems with the start, idle, acceleration.. it's all good.
3 hours later I tried to start it to go pick up my kid from school but it just cranked without firing and would not start. I took care of business with the kiddo and then started trying to pin down the problem.
1. Opened the door & listened for the fuel pump to prime.. No sound.
2. Noticed the dome light is on.
3. Checked ALL of the fuses on the side of the dash.. All are fine. Turned key to listen for secondary prime.. no sound.
4. Bought Fuel pump relay & replaced.. no change.
5. Cursed.. a lot
6. Bought fuel pump.. replaced.. no change.
7. Cursed a lot more.. and cried a little too.
8. Noticed the fuel pump was now priming with the key being turned, but still not when I open the door.. Dash indicates the known CEL, but now I notice that the EPC light is on too (this could be from all the fruitless cranking drawing down the battery charge)
9. Figured I'd throw in a new crank angle sensor cuz of the EPC.. no change.
10. Shot starting fluid down the intake.. didn't hit a lick.
I feel like I'm at a dead end.. It's acting like a bad ignition control module, but there's no such thing on a vw 1.8t.
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My 18" Austin alloys come with black Volkswagen-branded bolts with 9-point "starburst" openings in the center. They look pretty common based on photos I'm seeing on the Web.
Thing is, I don't see anything in the tool kit that looks to match up with these bolts should I, or a mechanic or roadside service, need to remove a wheel(s).
I have the standard tool kit and it has all the tools shown in the manual EXCEPT the "Adapter for anti-theft wheel bolt (if equipped)." Should I have one, or am I missing something else obvious here?
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So I did the seafoam trick and I came to the conculsion that my exhaust leak is coming from either the manifold or the flex pipe. There was no smoke coming from under the car only a mist of smoking coming up from the back of the engine, probably by the manifold or the flex pipe. I do not see any visible cracking per say. I have attached a picture of the end of the flex pipe and it almost looks like someone may have tried to seal it before? I don't know if that is normal or not as seen in the picture.
2002 Volkswagen Golf 2.0 ...
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My '03 Jeep Liberty developed a quite audible hole in the exhaust system overnight (sound is coming from engine compartment) and at the same time has begun missing. The missing occurs most often in the low end of gears - once through the gears (in 4th or 5th) and at highway speeds it smooths out again. My question is are these two problems related?
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I'm in the middle of replacing my VC gasket and while I was removing one of the hex bolts that holds it in it started sparking like crazy and turned the tip of the hex wrench glowing red. It didn't do this for the first bolt I took out. I also forgot to disconnect the battery before I started, could that have had anything to do with it?
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The other day when i wanted to start the car, I found out my battery was death so i decided to ask my buddy to push me and crank it on gear. Car shakes as normal and engine started, but then i heard a weird noise like if something was rubbing. I turned it off and popped the hood. I found my engine leaning forward and toward the passenger side.
So the next morning, I checked the bay again and i found out that it wasn't the motor mount. Motor mount is ok, but then i found a broken bolt that holds the bracket to the block; the one that goes right next to the water pump to be more specific. Also in the back of the block there is a bolt that hold bracket to the block again and the thread whole was enough weak to break when the other bolt failed. So I did some research and i found that there is a solution for the bolt in back of the block.
What I am concerned is for the on the goes right next to the water pump. It seems that it broke the whole thing including the part where the bolt threads go. I just had a shop install I.E connecting rods, new piston rings, and rebuilt the heads. They put a new timing belt kit and all its job required. I think they might have a bit of fault on this since it had to be removed when they did the timing belt kit. Anyways I don't want to think my block will be a junk now because engine is running like a champ, and that would be a bummer.
-Bolt that is broken in two pieces.-
-And where it is attached to the block-
-Part of the engine where this all goes.-
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I was looking around under the hood and I'm pretty sure I'm missing a bolt and maybe a nut too. The bolt hold the fuel line I think. Is there supposed to be a nut holding the fan shroud on here?
I know I could go to the hardware store and eventually find something that works, but that is a headache and they don't like me test fitting until I find the right size. What is part number?
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I have an 09. I heard a rattle on a rough road and crawled underneath the engine. The right front skid plate bolt is missing. What size bolt belongs there.
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I bought myself an 06 MK4 GTI and loving it!!!!!! But, now to the problem. OBD2 port is not in its designated spot. I believe the previous owner had an aftermarket radio in the vehicle and put the stock one back in before selling it. Is it possible they could have pushed on the wires and pulled the port out of its little cubby hole? If I remove the radio should I have access to the obd2 wires/port? IF so is there a trick for removing the stock headunit or do I really need the special tab tools?
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Today while driving I noticed a knocking when turning right or going over bumps in the road. I finally got to look under the truck and noticed that I'm missing the nut on the top side of the front stabilizer bar link bolt assembly on the passenger side.
It's a '99 Ranger XLT 4x4. Is this unsafe to drive? Is there a bushing on the top?
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Looking at my circle track car when they told me my air intake temperature sensor was missing this is a picture online I found: [URL] ....
The hole is filled with a bolt and some epoxy. I don't see where the cable is for it. What will this do to my car? It is a track only car.
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I just acquired a 01 wolfsburg jetta 1.8t and first time vw owner.
I just got the car and found that all the pcv ventilation hoses were crumbling and broken down. I replaced everything under the intake up to the y at the valve cover. All was in stock at the dealer was the oil cooler elbow, tee and pcv valve. From there, i made my own hoses using 3/4 hose and couplers.
Before this, it ran fine but sometimes at idle the idle would jump up and down but not die. I also had a couple codes, can't remember what the number was. One was O2 bank 1 sensor 1 lean and i think the other was O2 related.
Now, after trying to fix the leaks. CE light went out but idle still does the same but my boost improved from like 5psi to like 9psi wot. That's not an issue but coming home tonight when i went to second, it felt like it was dragging or not wanting to accelerate or accelerate and like stall for a second. If you blip the throttle it back fires while in second when its doing this.
Only mod on the car i know of is it has a forge DV/blowoff i guess is the correct name. It can be used as a dv or both.
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I'm just curious, I have milltek catback and lately, i feel like I can hear a very small exhaust leak somewhere under the car. I could be way wrong because I get super paranoid once I hear an odd noise, so anyway would a small leak light up the CEL?
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I did some searching and found someone with the same dsg rattle chatter noise I am getting from my R (check link below)
My R has 102,000 miles, runs excellent but the dsg makes a noise mostly when I am in gear stopped with my foot on the brake. While I was under the car checking out the chatter noise I noticed a faint exhaust leak somewhere in the headers near the flex pipe. I want to fix it and I plan to put on a cat back exhaust very soon but I really don't want to spend the money on a set of headers.
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So, I recently picked up mt 2000 vr6 has 200k on it runs great well taken care of. I was just driving not getting crazy or any sort of thing. it has ground in 2nd a little from when I got it. I put it in neutral then went to put it in 2nd and it went but nothing there. it will go into 2nd but won't stay and when I hold it in 2nd gear it just revs no noise or anything just sits and rolls. tried doing the reading but all I fold was 1st and 2nd I just have no 2nd.
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I own a 2002 GTI and my sunroof was damaged beyond repair.
A local headliner shop had a used 2004 Jetta sunroof which he sold to me. The shop owner said everything was in working order with the sunroof except the wire harness that runs to the sunroof was missing the plug since it was cut. He recommended just taking the plug from my GTI sunroof motor and soldering it onto the Jetta motor since it may throw off the "timing" of the sunroof motor and would need to be recalibrated if removed. Keep in mind he is an authorized Webasco dealer so I took him at his word.
I cut my plug off of my GTI sunroof motor harness and began to solder it onto the Jetta sunroof.
I quickly noticed the Jetta sunroof motor had one extra wire (Brown). I didn't think it would be a big deal since my GTI doesn't have 6 wires and only requires 5 so I mounted the new sunroof with the Jetta motor onto the car.
The sunroof retracted back into the "fully open" position and would close but would not go into the "vent" position. Each time I would turn the dial to the "vent" position, the sunroof would slide back into the "fully open" position.
I thought this was a bit strange and now I am beginning to wonder if I need to swap the GTI sunroof motor on my car due to it not have the extra wire or is the Jetta sunroof motor going to work fine but another issue is causing this to happen?
Below are the differences in the two sunroof motors. Both are Bosch products.
Jetta Sunroof Motor - Part Number : GDO 849 696 564
This part has 6 wires that connect to it.
White, Green, Gray, Blue, Purple, and Brown
Where as the GTI has only 5 wires on it.
GTI Sunroof Motor - Part Number : GDO 849 696 566
White, Green, Gray, Blue, and Purple
The difference between the two is the additional BROWN found in the Jetta sunroof motor.
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Have to do a replacement and if so.. is removed the intake the only way to get at those stubs on the ex manifolds.
I thought it was the flex-pipe.. but after listening to the sound and getting an engine code for b1 s1 the leak has to be before the o2 senor for it to pop a code..
It sounds like a standard header leak from backing out bolts or a faulty gasket leak..
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