Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Replaced Evap Box, Heater Doesn't Work
Sep 21, 2014
I just replaced my evap box along with most everything connected to it (had some bad servos and replaced other stuff for good measure). AC works great now, but the heater still doesn't work. I've had this car 4 years and the heater has never worked. When I took the box apart, the doors were naked (no foam). Heater core looked ok, but thought it would be stupid not to replace it while I was there.
So, I was hoping this may cure my heater issue, but was really only looking to get the AC going. So, the car had been running for 30-45 minutes and while the heater was on, I went to check the heater core hoses, the pass side hose was hot, the driver's side wasn't. Driver's side goes to axillary pump and bottom of coolant reservoir. Not too long ago, I replaced the mechanical pump and t-stat along with other stuff (crack pipe, etc.). Thought I'd get everything while I had the system drained. Didn't work then, either.
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I was 4 hours into a 6 hour trip (on the way home) and my air stopped working! when i press the AC button, it lights up on settings 1,2, and 3 but NOTHING blows from the vents (whether the AC button is pressed or not, nothing comes out!) however... when I turn it to "4," air blows full blast but the AC light turns off and only blows warm air.
thinking I need to check my compressor!
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I recently changed my battery and now my auxiliary doesn't work. I have read that it's simply changing a code with program. Vagcom-(VCDS)
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I have searched up and down and i can only see people complaining about the reverse of my situation.
Is the Horn and the Alarm beep the same unit? Maybe a fuse?
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I don't know what is this.. Before 30 mins everything worked fine, I installed a new LED panel to the interior light centre and happened this!
The dome lights doesn't work with any door. Can be the relay?
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I bought my car and I can't use the key to lock my car from distance, change the battery on my key, but it's not it. How I could fix it? It has to be the main car why my remote doesn't work..
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So the other day i hit something on the road and all of the sudden when im coasting in gear i hear a "thududududududd" noise from mid engine.. you cant hear it when the windows are down, only when they are up and it doesn't happen in neutral or when the clutch is pressed in. also after i shut the car off and turned it back on i had a CEL for the A range vehicle speed sensor which i replaced yesterday but still the speedo doesn't work and the gas gauge is moving around bends. when letting off the gas to shift the car stops almost like hitting the brakes and shifts kind of hard. It also backfires like a shot gun in 4th gear only. I recently had a stage 2 south bend clutch put in but everything was fine after that installation.
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So I have an 05 MK4 GLI, my alarm has not worked since the day I got it. Hold the alarm button on the fob, no luck. when I lock or unlock the car, the lights don't flash and the horn doesn't beep. My ex had an 03 GLS 2.0, alarm/lock/unlock worked without a problem, so why mine doesn't work.
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I'm having some sort of electrical malfunction on the back of my Mk4 Gti. The right rear tail light, license plate light and back windshield wiper doesn't work. I replaced the bulbs several times and they keep blowing.
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Okay, so the car in question is a 2003 Escort ZX2 with roughly 110k on the clock. It's run like a champ up until now. My wife was driving it home from work the other day and said that there was a burning smell coming through the vents, then the coolant temp gauge on the dash went all the way to hot and stayed there, and the heat simultaneously stopped working.
She got it home and I quickly found out that the car IS NOT overheating. Something screwy is going on with the gauge and it will sit at cold for 10 minutes, then go all the way to hot, then sit in the middle, and it's just all over the place. However, the engine fan works fine and comes on at the appropriate time, the engine does not overheat at all, and other than the gauge acting weird and the heat not working, the car runs as it always has.
So, just a as a measure of preventative maintenance I replaced the thermostat, thermostat housing, and both clip-in coolant temp sensors on the thermostat housing. This seems to have fixed nothing, but oh well.
Next, I let the car heat up and checked the two hoses going to the heater core in the firewall. One hose is just slightly warm (even at full operating temperature) and the other is completely cold.
When you get in the car and attempt to turn the heat on, all the blower motor speeds work. When you turn the dial from cold to hot you can see under the dash that the cable that opens the blend doors is working fine as well. However, no heat at all, it's just cold air that comes from the vents even on the hottest setting.
The heater core isn't leaking at all, this has been confirmed.
So, I'm unsure where to go from here. The wacky coolant temp gauge seems like maybe it's the actual gauge itself that's gone south (in which case I'd need a new gauge cluster I suspect). The heat though perplexes me. Sure, the heater core could be plugged but that seems rather unlikely considering the coolant has always been regularly flushed and when you open up the radiator there's no gunk or rust or anything in the system at all.
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I am not sure if they are related or if they happened at the same time but my wife said her heater/ac fan wasn't working. So I figured it was a fuse, but after visually checking all the fuses and I mean all, none appear to be blown. After checking all the fuses I turned the car on, only to find out I put a couple fuses in the wrong locations and re-installed according to the diagram on the back of the cover. Turned car back on and heater fan as expected did not turn on. Then I noticed the Trac light on, not blinking or beeping just "on". After looking on the forums and web this means that it is turned off. If it is just off how do you turn it back on?
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I'm trying to delete the EVAP system on my 24v to clean up the bay. I tested the purge valve and it comes up as 25ohms so i was wondering if I could remove it and wire in a resistor to the connector in order to trick the car into thinking that it was still there.
Next question is in the picture listed below, would i be able to cap off # 11 and where the lines go into the intake manifold or would i have to delete the hoses going to #10 and #13 as well?
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Got a CEL tonight while driving. Originally I was driving and the light came on saying that my gas cap was loose. I corrected the problem when I got home and tightened again. The light stayed on however. I ran a scan with the OBDII and it gave me a code for EVAP- Very Small Leak .
I was reading around and some people suggested the MAF. Which would make sense because I recently had all of that stuff off and gave the engine a deep cleaning while it was exposed. I just don't see how the MAF could relate to the code my car is pushing?
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My wife and I bought two 2014 Jetta TDI's. What a great Turbo engine. We like a lot about the cars. There is a problem with both cars, the same problem. The voice command doesn't work well at all. When I say call Volkswagen, for example, it doesn't understand the command. On rare occasion, it will recognize a name.The dealer put in a new voice module, but it still doesn't work. My wife's car has the same issue.
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so my girls car is throwing an evap code (P0442) small leak detected. I bought a new oem gas cap and replaced the purge valve solenoid under the hood. that didn't work, CEL still comes on about 100mi after clearing the code.
I have checked the rubber hoses that were attached to the purge valve solenoid when i replaced it and they are fresh, no dry rot or cracks that i can see. The hose on one side goes to a hard line that runs under the car to the back, the hose on the other side of the solenoid runs under the intake to the throttle body. That hose was fine as well. Connections were tight and i even put better clamps on the hose ends that attach to the solenoid. So I have ruled out that portion of the system (under the hood).
I also removed the rear seat to access the fuel pump. All those connections seem nice and tight, I don't smell any strong gas fumes indicating a leak so i don't think the fuel pump gasket is the problem either. Finally, i checked out the hard lines running under the car front to back and I see no apparent or obvious damage. I assume my next step is to pull off the rear passenger wheel well liner and asses the charcoal canister and the LDP connections, correct??
The last thing I will mention is, Idid notice the 2 fuel lines that attach to the fuel regulator are in pretty rough shape, however not leaking any fuel. Are both of these lines actual liquid fuel lines? I am thinking one of them is a vapor return which may be part of the EVAP system. If it's dry-rotted and leaking vapors could that be the culprit??
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I have a 2005 1.8 TJetta GLI owned for about 2 months now. Gas cap warning pops up then goes away when I turn off the car then check engine light comes on. I've change the gas cap to new oem one changed the purge valve [URL] .... After a couple of weeks same issues again brought it to my mechanic he ran a leak detector and told me that there are Evap leaks. I read somewhere that I might need a need charcoal canister and a fuel tank.
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Okay, so a few weeks ago, my tire blew out on the freeway. Of course my spare wasn't in there and when I got one I couldn't get the lugs loosened. My 4way was too big on all sides. It was late, I am a single mother of two young kids so I had no choice but to drive slowly to get it off the freeway. The next morning I came back fully prepared, got my car in to get a new tire. I have been driving with ONE code for my CEL, but at the shop (where I use to work) I used the scanner and it threw 5 codes.
P0300 Random misfire
P0442 Small EVAP leak detected (this one was already there)
P0420 Catalyst system below threshold bank 1
P0301 Misfire cyl 1
P0303 Misfire cyl 3
My beautiful love is an 02 Jetta 2.0 4 Cyl. Now, since 4 of these codes popped up AFTER my first blowout (I turn 30 next month, knock on wood)
Did driving my car at 5 mph about a mile and a half (everywhere up until the gas station was NO PARKING) do something to my car? All of a sudden, any in town driving ESP IDLING makes my check engine light blink and my car has no power I just have to pull over wherever I am. I checked the car out myself on the side of the road and my cat was glowing. After this I do not drive my car.
So, what should I do. I did a tune up. Should I replace the 02 sensors then the cat?
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I have always on my vcds this fault 17881 - EVAP Leak Detection Pump: Open Circuit P1473, what is this? I have golf iv 1.8t ...What is this and what problem to my car. I have got this fault more than one year....
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AC on a R32 TURBO with fmic is working and cold. blowing around 55* in the shop, idling outside for a long time. everything works great.
drive it about 20 minutes or so.... get hot and doesn't work anymore. pressures are good, fans both work, car doesn't heat up past where it should be.
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My AUX doesn't seem to work (had the IPOD plugged into the M-M cable and the other end plugged into the AUX in the glovebox). When I hit CD nothing happens, when I hold it down, I get CD-MIX. When I hit SAT multiple times it cycles through SAT1, SAT2, SAT3, but never shows AUX. I don't see anything regarding AUX in the manual either.... I have recoded my instrument panel to UK among a couple other vagcom mods. Can I fix this with the VAGCOM? Can I upgrade the firmware via a CD?
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Owner of a 2012 GTI here. So for some reason that I have yet to re create, my passenger map light doesnt work sometimes. It seems to work sometimes but only when I do a full close and re-open of the car. When my doors open, they both should light up, but one doesn't. Even if I press the button.
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