Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Stuck In Park - Brake Light Switch?
Jan 31, 2016
My 1.8T with auto trans is stuck in park. I've read that the likely culprit is the break light switch but before I order the part and install it I wanted to check what else it can be because it was working fine before I fixed some coil wires. Basically I unplugged the ECU and tested continuity from the coil connectors to the ecu connectors.
I found an issues, resolved it, plugged everything back in, fire the car up, turned it off, re-installed all the covers, etc. Then I repaired a broken wire in the trunk lid wiring that was broken. But when I went to back it out of my garage I couldn't get it out of park.
If it's just happened to go while doing all this other work then it's just a coincidence, but are there other things I can check based on the ignition work I've been doing?
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2000 VR6 automatic. Yesterday my car was stuck in park couldn't move the shifter . Figured it was the brake sensor switch when the brake is engaged food pedal lights do not go out, I replaced it this morning but still won't work I've been driving it around in limp mode?
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So I have a 2010 jetta 2.5 and my key is stuck in the ignition has been for a couple weeks also don't know if it's related but when I start the car I can pull the shifter out of park without pressing shifter button just have to press brake and after I shut the car off if I take it out of park and put it in gear it just freely rolls only stops if it's in park. NOT A DSG
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The truck in my sig. makes a clicking noise when it's in the park and I press the brake pedal down. The click is coming from somewhere up high in the steering column. It doesn't make the clicking noise in any other gear only in park. Might be normal but I don't remember hearing it before?
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I was recently having some AC issues, I dropped the glove box to check the cabin filter, That's when all hell broke loose., I noticed a plug in one of the boxed was loose, I pushed it in and the car started beeping, so I shut the car off, then started it, Its park brake was stuck, so I tried everything from disconnecting 12v batt, to disconnecting the high voltage batt and then both. Now it won't run, won't do anything and throws no codes.
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Today I was leaving my buddys house when I got in my car it started fine then I let off the brake and the epc light came on and the gas is stuck wide open unless I have my foot on the brake unplugged the plug that goes to the gas pedal and it was fine but the epc light was still on plugged it back in and the same thnig so i put my gas pedal on my buddy jetta and it worked fine on his car. Its a 1.8t jetta 03 wolfsburg edition 119000miles
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Ok so this is the problem now, i went to check my fuses and pulled a #20 out to see if the cigarette lighter fuse was blown. Guess what? i start the car and all of a sudden the Electronic Parking brake failure kicked on. I tried to get the car out and now it won't get out of park! FML i heard that you can just unplug the battery for 15 min and that should reset the car but who knows... I got vw roadside coming to see what they can do it might need to get towed though
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Daughters 03 mountaineer. Have changed the brake light switch, bulbs and checked the only fuse I could find for the brake lights. She can drive it by doing the override under the column but still has no brake lights and is an accident waiting to happen. What else to check? Is there a relay or another fuse I could be missing? I'm lost.
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4 days ago, my '04 Chevy Aveo (89,300 miles) would not shift out of park and no brake lights were coming on. I had to use the shift lock release to start the car in neutral, and I took it to dealer. Dealer replaced the brake switch. One day later, the problem returned. I took back to dealer, and they showed me that the light blue "15" stop fuse (the right column of fuses, second one down) had blown. They replaced. It again worked for a day, and the problem came back. Each time I put a new 15 fuse in now, it works temporarily, but now fries either immediately or within an hour. In order to drive, I still have to use the shift lock release, which isn't great, because it means I have to drive without brake lights.
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Have been getting stuck and not releasing when brake is applied? I know there is a rod that connects and releases this for brakes or something but can it be replaced easy or just bypassed which I would prefer ?
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having problem w/ 98 f-150. first truck stuck in park. figured out how to get around that (turn key 1 position, shift to neutral, start vehicle, then engage transmission). but no brake lights! I have turn signals, driving lights, hazards, etc in rear. I disconnected harness from brake light switch. there are 2 leads, 1 hot, 1 not. i jumped them and no brake lights. i tested the switch and it functions properly (it's reconnected now). i changed my bulbs in tail lights. I unplugged the solenoid (which is impossibly located behind/beside steering column). this allowed me to shift like an old truck (without having to brake first), but doesn't solve my lack of brake lights (i've reattached the solenoid harness to remind me of my problems).
i am putting my money on a broken wire somewhere between the brake light switch (b/c that was good) and the solenoid (i am not hearing that faint click when i step on brake). but a broken wire should work by accident some of the time (unless cut cleanly and completely). there is a green wire with red stripe leaving the brake light switch and 3 wires at the solenoid harness (1 green and maybe a smaller gauge than those at the switch and 2 others which i don't recall their colors). Ford service manager doesn't think it's the solenoid but wasn't otherwise useful except to say, "hey, why don't you bring it in to me." What to look for before i plunk down for someone to perform what I already have before completing the job!
can i splice a wire from something (? brake light switch?) to something (?wire in solenoid harness?) or does that "electronic signal" get processed somewhere else first?
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My 2012 F250 6.7 once again (third time in 2k miles) got stuck in park with no brake lights or traction control. I found that removing the shroud from the steering wheel allowed me to manually activate the solenoid and get into gear but could only drive in manual shift mode.
Something is causing the brake switch fuse to blow. When I replace the fuse all is well for maybe 1k miles then it happens again! After the second time I replaced the brake switch thinking it was the cause but no deal. It happened a third time. The dealer who fixed it the first time could not find the cause.
This is frustrating and downright dangerous! What in the circuit could be causing the short?
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Just discovered today (after driving my Prius since 2006) the Fog Lights are Not on when light switch in park position. In fact, there are not any lights on in the front of the car when light switch in park mode.
North Carolina has a law to burn headlights when using windshield wipers. The HID lights seem to draw from the High Voltage batteries. So, I've been putting the light switch in the park mode .....thinking the fog lights would be on. (Yes, I have the fog light switch in the on position.)
There is not any lights on in the front of the car when switch is in the park mode. You don't know how many rain storms I've been in, thinking the Fog Lights were on. ...even meeting Highway Patrol coming at me, and they never pulled me over, adding to my thinking I was burning the Fog Lights without the HID lights on.
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I removed the rear shelf to do some reupholstering. Obviously, the third brake light is enclosed in this assy. Now every thing is back together and my 3rd brake light isn't working anymore. Probably got banged around when it was out. On troubleshooting it, it actually works but comes on so low that you can't even see it behind the glass. I even disassembled the whole thing and directly wired it to the car battery same results. All LEDs illuminate but at a fraction of what they should. I'd say maybe 1/10 of what they should. I checked continuity of the whole circuit board and every thing checks with no broken solder except for 1 diode. It's the black one on the far right that has no continuity. Why such a low illumination?
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My brake fluid is fine and fuses 5 & 9 are good. Brake lever is all the way down as well. Have read that for some simply replacing the cap worked. Car is a 2000 w/170K. BTW, A/C does not work, clutch not spinning, fuses ok there as well. I've made sure a/c button is not on nor is recirc button. Some have said probe can be related to this but that also can show up with a bad fuse # 5, but mine is good.
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So my brake light on my dash is on. The other morning when I started my car the like came on blinking with only 3 beeps. No more beeping after that just blinking. Now it has been doing this every time I start my car since (3 beeps and blinking). My abs light is also on but it has been on for years. I checked the brake fluid and it is full. I also never use my ebrake because it doesn't work so this shouldn't be the problem.
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So yesterday on my way to work the EPC light came on. Everything seemed fine. No loss of power or check engine light. Just an EPC light on the dash. So after searching around and checking the forums I decided to step outside and check the codes. I have a bluetooth OBD2 deal that talks to my phone and I have software on my phone to read and clear codes and other things. I checked but no codes. So I decided to do the clear codes function and it made the EPC light go off. On my way to grab some lunch the EPC light came back on and I noticed my cruise control would not work. Did some more research and figured it must be the brake light switch.
Went and bought one for 15 bucks and installed it. Cleared the light again with my phone and headed home. On my way home the EPC light comes back on. Once I get home I check and find my brake lights dont work at all. I checked the switch and it is functioning properly. I could even unplug the brake light switch and jump the red/brown power wire to the red/black wire and they still wouldn't light up. No power getting back to the lights. This morning I get up and head to work. No more EPC light and my brake lights are working fine. I'm thinking maybe a short in that red/black wire but I just don't know. Does that wire go straight from the brake light switch to the brake lights or does it go through any modules or connectors or anything? I would love to get a schematic of the Brake light wiring. 2002 GTI VR6.
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So my brake pads worn light came on recently on my 03 jetta...low and behold all 4 brake pads needed changing...funny though because upon buying pads with the sensor when I went to put new pads on the old ones didnt even have a sensor it was already cut at the harness and spliced together to keep the light off....so upon inspection one of the wires was black and the other copper....idk if one was supposed to be black or if its because its fried? Anyways i went as far up the wires as I could till they are harnessed in with the abs sensor wires...still one wire black....spliced together crimped and still the light comes and goes....I dont have access to the vcds or vagcom so can't turn it off that way..
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My car developed a new light on the dash. Whenever I start to drive my e brake light comes on and stays on the entire drive. It randomly started doing this? It's a 05 1.8t tri with the o2j ...
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I started the car one morning after it snowed. the red "BRAKE" light is constantly on and while the car is moving it beeps which is extremely annoying.. I have tried:
-Topping off brake fluid
- another ebrake sensor (under the center console)
- brake pads have plenty of meat on them
- brake light are working
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I have a 2000 VW Jetta GL. A few weeks ago I noticed my charging light come on followed by abs and airbag lights. Which would mean that the alternator is not charging the battery. However I kept on driving and this light would go off. However when I hit a bump on the road this light goes off meaning that the battery is being charged by the alternator. I recently installed a sound system in the vehicle which worked without problems for a few weeks before I started having this problem. Since then I have changed the alternator, battery and taken out the sound system. I now have a 125 amp alternator instead of a 90 amp alternator. The charge light doesn't come on anymore after startup but the abs, airbag and emergency brake light with a beep is now occurring.
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