Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Temp Reading Shows 260 + But Car Won't Overheat
Jun 27, 2016
I've got a 2001 Volkswagen Jetta 1.8T Wolfsburg Edition.
Recently the temp gauge sits at 260* as soon as the car starts, but it's not actually overheating. Car runs/drives fine and will do so for many, many miles. Even in stop and go traffic. Was told the thermostat was replaced, but that didn't fix the issue although it doesn't sound like a thermostat issue since the car isn't actually overheating. Coolant is topped off as well.
I am thinking it's a bad sensor. Where is it located on this car?
Car is a friends and she said she took it to a shop to have the coolant checked and they were also the ones who did the thermostat.
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My engine temp indicator shows overheat to the red line, however when I stop the car I can put my hand on the radiator cap and leave it there. No signs of any leaks anywhere. The top radiator hose on the drivers side is hot. Engine runs fine. Oil on dipstick clean. I can't find anything to back up my temp indication. What else I can look for? 1987 chev caprice classic brougm ls 5.o liter.
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I have a 2006 Chevy Colorado, 5 cylinder, automatic, 4wheel drive with 62,700mi. 1st problem occurred in 2013 new thermostat was replaced then in 2015 temp. gauge shows overheating problem again. All diagnostic problems have been analyzed by mechanic and nothing further could be done. Mechanic suggests to take truck to dealer. The temp. reading still shows above normal operation and the engine compartment has signs of overheating also. If the truck driven on uphill range the temp. goes higher I refuse to drive in this condition which will surely ruin the entire engine.
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The 2007 Prius starts and runs fine with no problem. However, the 12v battery check with a multimeter shows 9.9v reading. Does this mean that the 12v Battery is coming to end of life and needs to be replaced.
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I have a 2000 vw Gti vr6. It leaks coolant smokes and starts to over heat when idling. Does fine when driving down the road. It has a new radiator. When pressure tested I can see a little stream of coolant coming out. But there's no space in the engine bay and I can't see exactly where it's coming from. Like I said it only happens when it's Idling for an extended period of time. It does fine going down the road.
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I have a vibration that shows up when I am going 70 to 75 mph. I don't really feel it much at all in the steering wheel (not shaking side to side at all). It's more the whole car like I feel it in the seat more than anything. It's definitely a fast vibration so I'm sure it has something to do with wheel speed (wheels, bearings or axles?) I thought it was a bad wheel as my rear passenger wheel was bent and out of round making that tire become cupped real bad.
So time came for new tires and I decided to get a new set of wheels to put the new tires on. Got my wheels and tires from tire rack already mounted and balanced. Put the new wheels and tires on and the vibration is still there just the same. Wheel bearings all seem good. The front wheel bearings were replaced about 4 or 5 months ago (vibration was there before wheel bearings were replaced) along with a front suspension refresh kit from ECS with new lower control arms.
I'm curious if the CV axles could cause this type of vibration even though they are not making any noise. My car is not lowered at all and I am running stock wheel and tire sizes. I'm not above trying new axles as ECS has them for a good price. Checked with Raxles first but for the 24v VR6 they only have the performance ones.
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I have a 2008 Pontiac GT, regularly maintained and all runs fine. Just one problem that has popped up over the last few weeks since the warmer weather has arrived: On the computer readout in the dash, if the "Coolant" display shows a temperature (say, 83C or what have you), then the AC works. However, much of the time the Coolant reading shows "---" (3 blank dashes), and the AC does not work. It's still been quite cool around here (Toronto area) so I haven't needed the AC much but it's heating up and I'd sure love to take care of this if possible.
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I found trunk in 2003 GTi won't lock, and new actuator(motor) didn't, either. No signal on the connector when I press key fob switch, through rear light blink. I guess there would be another connector to this wire(green and blue) somewhere inside the passenger side C pillar.
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I have a 20th GTI and the Temp light is flashing. The car does not overheat, and runs normally. The temp gauge acts normally.
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I have less than 7k miles on my new Silverado W/T. I haven't hauled anything heavy in it since I bought it, and have been using it just back and forth to work. Pretty light duty. I was parked the other night in a parking lot idling and listening to the radio when I noticed the transmission temp jumped up to 189 degrees! I also noticed the water gauge was a bit past it's mid-range temp. I immediately cranked up the heater core to try to cool things down and it worked for the main radiator water temp..but the tranny sender quickly went to 200 degrees so I shut the whole mess down.
Just before I did that, the transmission idiot light popped on. I left it there for several hours in 20 degree weather and came back to start the truck and head home..the tranny on start-up was still @ 70 degrees. I got up on the hiway and things came down to about 100 degrees at a legal speed on the hiway. Engine water temp was normal too. Drove for about 45 minutes that way. I tried sitting in my driveway a day or so later in park, and the tranny temp went from 120 degrees to 145 degrees in 35 degree weather fairly quickly.
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Okay, here's the car
AWP 1.8t mk4 GTI.
- stock DP
- Forge 007 splitter adjusted 25 clicks
- Swiss cheese stock intake with k&N high flow
- APR stage 1 93 tune.
My boost gauge is currently reading peak of about 15-16 psi. I replaces some vacuum hoses that appeared to be worn, and to no avail. I have no CEL, and no codes thrown at all. This sound like a boost leak.
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My speedometer reads accurate only till around 45 mph. The needle begins to float around gently, and the faster I go, the more discrepancy it reads. It may hang a while, floating around 60 and the speedometer app on my phone says I'm going 74.
The speed sensors were replaced for another issue a year and a half ago. The dealership initially wanted me to put a new transmission in it for $3800 after they said the trans was slipping past 45. Then they said something instead about a valve plate (could be wrong vernacular) for $1000 instead of an entire transmission.
When I finally told them that my cruise control is completely erratic, trying to track the needle movements with upshifts and downshifts, they said it's $200 in parts for the drive gears and that they were made with plastic that can wear out.
So I said I would sit on it, since the ideas about the issue seem to vary greatly, and my father set me up to go to a transmission shop to have the car checked out. They had it for two days and changed the fluid out but we can't fix your speedometer issue... take it to the speedometer shop, but btw we think your transmission is fine.
Now, do I take it back to the dealer for the drive gears, or do I take it to another specialist? I have seen people say all it needed were the drive gears replaced and a new sensor. My odometer seems to still be working. There is no issue with my gas gauge.
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I own an old 95 Ford Taurus and have been having problems with it over heating. We have replaced head gaskets, there was a small crack got that repaired. We also replaced the radiator cap. I just replaced the whole radiator. Has new radiator hose too. The needle reaches all the way to the top line right before reaching the red zone within like 5-10 minutes of driving. It will eventually go back down but maybe just to between the o and r the gauge is vertical. I don't know what else it could be and can't afford to get another car at the moment. When i get home the reservoir is full and radiator is hot. After maybe 15-20 minutes of having the car shut off the water is sucked back in to the radiator.
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My display on the MFA and Climatronic panel is really wrong (-44C now). I was taking a look at the sensor in the front left grille but the only thing that's changing into the readings with my Vag-Com is the outside temperature sensor but not the displayed temperature.
I didn't find any other sensor on my car. Nothing into the rain tray...
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I just bought a 06 F250 King Ranch and the information center on the gauge cluster just shows the current odometer reading. When I press the information button that is supposed to toggle between trip mileage and avg mpg just the odometer shows. This truck was vandalized (bought from auction) so I am wondering does it have a XL cluster so I am asking are all the clusters different between XL, XLT, Lariat, King Ranch, etc and I have the wrong one installed or maybe there is an issues with my information center.
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This past Saturday afternoon I'm out driving on the highway when the temperature gauge on dash maxes-out and the overheat warning light comes on. I get off at the next exit and stop at the nearest repair shop. (Which happened to be not too far from the exit.) During these moments of driving the car is not behaving as if it were overheating. No steam/vapor coming from the engine, it's performing okay, A/C runs cold, running heater on full-blast seems to do nothing to ease the gauge and the temperature in the engine bay feels about "normal."
So, since this is a Saturday at almost 5PM most of the repair shops are closing (it's a known fact cars don't break down past 5 o'clock on Saturdays.) So they say the'll look at it on Sunday.
I get a call on Sunday and I'm told that as near as they can tell the car is not overheating, the overheat light or check-engine lights weren't coming on and the car is behaving normally. The thermostat is "gunked up" and they recommend new coolant or a coolant flush." I just opt for new coolant, forgoing the flush, as I didn't really have the funds for it, an additional $100 or so. They say there are no codes in the system.
They do it and end up having to keep the car overnight so that the... air bubbles will work out of it? (?!)
I pick it up this past Monday evening and on the drive home the temp-gauge does as it was doing when this process began. It started creeping "hotter and hotter" meanwhile the car is behaving otherwise fine. (No overheat light this time.) Get home, open the hood, no vapor, no excess heat. Nothing.
They spend quite a bit of time running it, hooking it up to a diagnostic machine, etc. While the temp-gauge is sort of "floating around" between normal and "hot" it doesn't reach an "overheat" and the diagnostic machine registers normal temperatures. This time they find a code in the system, though the check-engine light has never come on. They recommend, again, the coolant flush so I go ahead and do it (they give me a discount), and drive the car home, again the temp-gauge "floats" around the dial, never quite getting to "overheating."
I drive to work just fine Thursday (today) morning with no real trouble with the gauge. (Though, FWIW, I had to tap on the dash to get the dash-light on that side of the console to come on.) This brings us to Thursday afternoon.
I make a couple of errands and as I'm stopped at a pharmacy drive-thru the temp-gauge is "floating." Driving home on the highway it reaches "overheating", turning the light on (again, car is not behaving in an overheating manner. A/C still cold, running heat doesn't ease gauge, no vapor from engine compartment.) When I pull in my parking spot the A/C and the car starts to "stall" some and NOW the check-engine light comes on. I shut the car off and I see vapors coming from under the hood.
I open the hood and the engine is covered in the anti-freeze/coolant and the coolant reservoir is empty. The various hoses and such that are clipped on to parts of the front engine cowling are loose (the plastic screw/"snaps" came out of their holes) and pushing on the upper-radiator some and it seems awfully loose. (Like the upper mounts aren't properly seated or something.)
Call the shop ask them what they are doing to me, they say they'll have another look at it and pay for the tow to get the car back to their shop. Awaiting word on what is going on, likely sometime tomorrow.
All of this strikes me as very, very odd and all seems to pile up quickly from taking it to this shop. With a replaced thermostat and flushed coolant I have a hard time understanding how the engine could genuinely overheat. All of the hoses and such seemed fine, and running the engine for a while at the shop the other day generated no problems to the techs working on the car. Yet, they're the only ones who have messed with it. Assumptions on their part Tuesday afternoon were something to do with the water pump (replaced at 100,000 miles with timing belt. Car is now at 145,000 miles.) Or a faulty temperature sensor (or what passes for it on the car) sending false readings to the gauge.
Car is a 2000 Ford Focus ZTS with a 4-Cyl, 16V, 2.0 Liter engine. It has 145,000 miles on it, timing belt and water-pump were replaced at 100,000 miles have had regular oil-changes on (more or less) every 5,000 miles or so. I will admit to not getting coolant changes/flushes as often as one should but the car never really had an overheating issues or problems starting in the winter.
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Why, after so many repairs and $$$$ with a AAA Certified Repair shop, the temp gauge that sooner or later shows the needle HOT? Everything accounted for - thermostat 5x, radiator 3x, computer, maintenance, etc etc etc. " It's fixed !!" and then it's starts all over again. It's got 186,000 on it, couple of minor wrecks, all maintenance kept up, still driving it but the needle goes back up again and again. Funny thing, water levels remain the same, no smoke, no red engine light, slight smell of a hot engine but nothing else so far. Still, that needle!! This has been going on a couple of years. Want to figure it out before I get rid of the car. 2003 Civic Coupe DX ....
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I have a weird problem with the AC on my 2001 Passat. Every so often, evidently at random, the computer will show an outside temp that is far below actual. It will sometimes drop to -58F, even when it is hot outside. It won't always go that far down--and it eventually returns to the true temperature. But when this happens, the AC turns off, or the heat turns up (I have the Climatronic thingy). We have to shut the climate control off altogether in order not to roast. Turning off the car is not always a fix for this, and neither is turning off the AC. I suspect a sensor of some kind has gone bad, but the dealership wants an exorbitant amount of money just to dig deep enough in the car to discover what is wrong. This has been going on for 6 months, in all weather, but with greater frequency lately.
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I have a Grand Am SE 2001 and recently, since I got home from college for break, there has been no noticeable heat, and the engine temperature gauge is reading below 100. I checked the heat of the input and output hoses near the firewall and both were warm (warmer than the air blowing in the car) but not hot to the touch and this was after 10 minutes of driving 40 mph. Right now my only ideas are the thermostat or the heating core, what to look for? I'm not sure, short of replacing both, how to progress. Also wondering if driving it in this state is bad for the vehicle, I can't seem to find anything wrong with the engine and all other parts are working fine, not much chance to fix it for a few days.
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The outside temp reading in my GX is not accurate, it's showing 70-75 when its 91 outside. What do I need to do? Just replace this sensor? [URL] .....
I'm thinking the ACDELCO at the bottom of list?
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This is kind of a strange (minor) issue, but I noticed just recently that the outside temperature reading on my 2012 Sonata GLS is registering about 10 degrees hotter than the real outside temperature. This is driving down the road, not parked in the sun. It showed 91 degrees the other day as I was driving home from work, when the actual high for the area was barely 80.
My thoughts were that something was blocking or covering the sensor for the outside temp reading, but don't know where that sensor is located to check it...or if there might be some other way to "reset" the temp reading?
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