Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Under Hard Acceleration In 3rd - 5th Car Will Jump And Jerk
Oct 23, 2014
I just recently bought a 2001 Jetta with the 1.8t (AWD) because it had low mileage and a reasonable price. I've never owned a VW before so I know very little about them in general. This is my second vehicle with a turbo, my first was a Saab 93.
When I purchased the car it had the check engine light on and the codes were Vehicle Speed Sensor and Secondary Air Injection Pump. I was able to get it to stop throwing those codes just by cleaning off the components and reconnecting them. The only predominant problem I've been experiencing is that under hard acceleration in 3rd-5th the car will jump and jerk. Its almost like the car isn't getting enough fuel/air but I'm not entirely sure if that's an accurate diagnosis. I've ruled out transmission issues because there are no problems when driving at a slow-normal acceleration. Any insight on where I should begin to fix this issue would be welcomed because I feel as if my motor mounts will break due the force of the jerking.
My last issue has to do with what happened yesterday. My check engine light came back on randomly when I cranked my car. I had no issues the previous day (besides the aforementioned "jerking) so it seemed odd but what really worried me was when I started driving. Whenever I would release the accelerator the car would slow down suddenly as if I applied the brake. The problem continued throughout the day until I got the codes checked and they read Vehicle Speed Sensor (which I've seen has numerous issues from the factory installation) and the Bank 1 O2 sensor. Today I started my car and the check engine light wasn't on.
My car drove like normal (still the hard acceleration jerking but no dramatic deceleration when I release the accelerator). Now to my question, can an O2 sensor cause a problem like this? Maybe the MAF is bad? Not even sure if this vehicle will throw a code for the MAF ...
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1.8T ... Well, initially, engine light came on with a violent shake from the engine compartment. It was really really bad. I thought the engine mount just broke off or something...
First I looked at the coil packs and the spark plugs. The spark plugs were pretty old (I got the 02 Jetta 1.8T at ~140k miles for 1k, so no surprises). Spark plug on cylinder 2 was real bad, and that was the cylinder with the misfire code. Got a new set of spark plugs first. It worked a lot and the violent shuddering mostly went away.
The engine still idled erratically jumping and dipping at idle, even with the A/C off. So I replaced the coil pack on cylinder 2 after doing the coil pack switch test... After replacing the one coil pack, the engine idles like like it's new.
When I put the car in neutral and rev the engine to the redline, it revs nicely, very smooth. When I drive the car, when I accelerate reasonably slowly with the traffic, the car drives just fine. If I keep the car in lower gears and use light throttle to accelerate, it is smooth even past the rpm range where the turbo would be spooled up.
It is only when I dip into the throttle a bit more (no where near full throttle) to try to pass a car or accelerate just a bit harder, a little past ~2200rpm ish which is when the turbo starts spooling from the sound of it, it starts shuddering badly, and check engine light comes back on. The code shows misfire in cylinder 2.
My guess is there's something off with fuel system. My non-mechanic thought process is that maybe the injector is clogged and when it's light throttle, light acceleration, it injects little fuel and its ok, but when under heavier load / throttle, it tries to inject more fuel, but can't because it's clogged...
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2002 AVH Jetta Wagon. When I got the car back in 2012 it had 121K and I changed the wires (ngk blue 57021) and plugs (ngk platinum) and she drove like a dream. A couple of months later I started having issues with wet weather and moisture causing misfires so I did the JB WELD fix and though I'd still get the occasional misfire in hard rains it lasted me pretty much until very recently, when I decided I needed to put in a new coil because the problem was getting worse (hardly starting up after a rain and bucking wildly till things dried out). Yesterday, I replaced the BERU with a new HUCO and the car started up fine and drove fine all day. I think there was a lot of moisture in the air last night and possibly some rain but this morning, SAME PROBLEM with a new coil. Misfiring like crazy, no acceleration.
I thought the NGK wires and plugs I got were rated to last beyond 20,000 miles. At this point should I assume the wires are to blame? Split somewhere or something? It's definitely related to water and the electrical system.
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I have a 2003 Volkswagen Golf 2.0L 5 speed manual. Over the last 10,000 miles a problem started where on the highway in 5th gear, if i try to speed up by putting the pedal down, the steering wheel moves itself to the left and the car steers to the left. The wheel returns to the original position when i let off of the gas. its scary at high speeds and has become so bad that I can feel it accelerating at low speeds too.
The alignment is off and the steering wheel slightly to the right. when I put the gas down and it goes perfectly straight and when i release it goes back to the right. it has 126,000 miles on it. I know it needs tires, shocks and an alignment job but don't think that those factors are causing my problem. Could it be the motor mounts?
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So my 1998 Toyota Corrolla jumps and jerks after I switch gears. It only does it sometimes and I have seemed to narrow down that it does it mostly when the air conditioning is on and between 3rd and 4th gear if I don't have the RPMs just right. There is no smell nor any mettalic grinding. I'm thinking it's something to do with the transmission.
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I have a 06 f150 king ranch and I have had this issue before and had tran. rebuilt and motor work done for this and other issues. The jerking stopped for a while but now it is back!
The best way I can describe it is when I'm at a certain speed or have set the cruise, it feels as if it the overdrive has been pushed but it only last for a quick moment then it will continue to do this until I accelerate. Its not a steady jerk.
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Since they replaced my transmission at 40,000 miles, I've noticed that occasionally, but not always, there is an unusual quick half second jerk or jump feeling when I first crank the car on a cold start. It doesn't happen all the time, just some times, but it has to be a cold start when I do feel it. What this could be? I'm thinking maybe some bolts weren't put tight enough when they installed the new transmission?
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I have a 03 jetta 1.8t and for as long as i can remember my rpms would always fluctuate whenever ever i was idling and then there would be sometimes where i would be accelerating and i would have no power and then all of a sudden it would kick in kinda jerky like. About a week ago tho for some reason my car would just all of a sudden die when i would come to a complete stop and it did it about 5 times that day but when it died it would start right back up fine. I've been having this problem for quit awhile.
I have gotten told maybe coilpacks, n75 valve, o2 sensor, MAF i ended up buying a can of sensor cleaner and cleaned out sensor but that doesn't look like it did the trick. i have also noticed when i drive her pretty hard sometimes the rpms will fluctuate a lot more frequently than normal there also times where when ever i start in 1st gear it doesn't feel like i have all the power have than usual and I've noticed it only feel like that in 1st and second gear sometimes.
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I have an 03 vw Jetta 1.8t with around 100,000 miles and I recently ran into a problem with the car jolting, or slipping when I get on it hard. And also when I'm sitting at a stop light it will jerk forward like it wants to go. I've tried a few things like cv axels and some other things but I'm just hoping it's not the tranny.
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Here is my new to me 03 Jetta 1.8T Wagon. This all started yesterday driving down the highway at about 65, I drove over a bump and there was what felt like a jerk. I lost the radio right away and when stepping on the accelerator it didn't seem to go over 3500rpm. I got a few miles into town taking it easy and it died as I pulled up to a stop sign. I was able to get a jump and get it running again.
This was the first jump of the day...When we popped the hood to jump it I noticed that the red wire coming off the positive battery terminal to the power block was frayed and corroded, so I cut the bad end off and stripped the wire to get a good connection. Left the car on a battery tender just to make sure the battery was charged and came back after a few hours and it started right up. Problem solved right?! Wrong...
Probably 10 miles down the road the same thing happens, a jerk or clunk sound, lost power and the call stalled out. Called family that was close by and tried to jump it again 'cause that worked the first time... Got a few miles down the road and it happened again!
Here's a picture of the gauge cluster and all the lights that lit up.
Long story short the car had basically no lights, power, for the windows/radio/turn signals/headlights etc... but was putting along at about 5 mph. I was out in the country and about 5 miles from home so I was just focused on getting it in my garage. It died again and a jump wouldn't even get it going the next time. I did some reading on my phone and it seems like the power block can be problematic, I took a picture of that because there is some obvious melted plastic on the large black wire.
I have a friend with a vag com, and he was able to come out and read the faults and then clear them and the car started right up just fine off a jump pack. We did get it home, but today I'm getting the same issues. I am trying to trace that black wire to its origin to see if there is corrosion or a loose connection there but I have no clue where else to start....
I start a new job on the 21st of July and this was meant to be my commuter as my truck gets terrible mileage...
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As the title says. Last night my MKIV started this jump in the steering. No load or decelerating, the wheel does a pulse or jump, fairly violent. I drove ten miles with no problem, then a couple jumps, then fine. Pulled tires and inspected, checked bearings, tie rods, ball joints. nothing obvious. Could it be something in the power steering?
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I have 2015 GTI PP which had the APR Stage 2 with downpipe done about two weeks ago. I pretty much babied it the first week and couldn't believe how quick the car felt with a tiny little bit of throttle.
However, when I floor the car, it accelerates slower than if the throttle is slowly pressed to the floor. If I floor it and then back slowly back off the throttle as I near the upper RPMs the car starts to accelerate like it should have in the first place. The car is a total rocket if I slowly press the pedal towards the floor but if I press the pedal to much towards the floor the car slows down its acceleration that is until I start to slowly lift the pedal.
I'm at 5000ft elevation and its been pretty hot in the 80-103 F degrees. The gas out here is only 91 octane and the car has the 91 octane tune. I have tried gas from multiple stations and even tried an octane booster with no noticible improvement. I went to go log the car with my VCDS and found out that this new car uses a UDS ECU and none of the APR codes on their site match up.
Looking for a compiled list of UDS codes that actually log something useful? Or have a list that corresponds to the APR list of codes?
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I have 07 camry after having it jumped, I have no acceleration at all battery was disconnected.
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My GTI knocks everytime i acceletate hard from a full stop. The car is chipped stage 1+ from unitronic, apr intake. Everything else is stock, 80.000 km. the sound comes from the front right wheel. I believe it is a top plate, but I'm not too sure.
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I am getting a ticking noise under hard acceleration. Dealer told me the exhaust is touching the heat shield but did nothing about it. It's driving me crazy...
I may have to pull the trigger on this Borla I found for 700 shipped and new. Trying to keep my promise to myself to drive the car stock for a year b4 any major spending. That's out, I can already tell.
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I recently changed out my stock clutch for a SB Stg.2 endurance clutch. Under hard acceleration my car has developed a serious vibration. I had all four tires road forced balanced but this did nothing. It almost feels as if I have a bent wheel but had no issues prior to the install.
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I've had this happen a couple of times before on my '10 GTI - I'm on the freeway and I decide to throw the DSG into S mode and punch it, seconds after I bring it back down to D and normal engine speeds I can smell an odor that reminds me of the cat going bad - sort of like sulfur or something burning (not rubber, though). This is with my windows rolled up and A/C re-circulation turned on. What I should be checking?
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I took delivery of my GTI last Friday and I'm loving the car so far. Coming from a 2001 Miata LS, this car is so much smoother and quiet. I especially love the engine and the sound it makes, or lack thereof. It's barely noticeable until I stomp on the gas and then there's a lovely ... growl? rumble? I'm trying to think of how to describe the sound to friends who cannot hear it firsthand.
BTW, I haven't noticed the dreaded turbo wastegate rattle between 2-3K RPMs so, no, it's not that.
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Lately I've been having trouble with my car in third gear under hard acceleration while in tip mode with DSG. I have been Stage 2 since April and it hasn't really been an issue until recently.
The best way I can describe it is when you get into 3rd with your foot on the gas the car stops accelerating and kind of gets stuck. I have to completely let off the gas and before it "wakes up" again. I feel like it's been getting worse in worse, but it only ever happens when I try to push it hard.
No problems in auto mode or sport, it's just a major let down. Could the fuel pump be the culprit? It just feels like the car doesn't want to move for a second or 2, like no response from the gas pedal.
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I have a 07 20T and today when I went to pass someone on the highway I punched the throttle and the car rev'd up and it started to jerk really hard as if it was not catching the next gear. So I let off the gas and everything went back to normal. Under normal driving the car drives normal and fine, its only when you give it some hard throttle and when it hits high rpm's it jerks, it feels like the car wants to stall. I have 30k miles on it.
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Recently the car was stuttering under hard acceleration and battery voltage dropped, I have a batt gauge. Got harness replaced and symptoms are gone but this must be happening to others with or without symptoms.
Check your fuse box on top of the battery. The alternator harness wire turns silver after many years of use. Your battery volts will drop also and you can see it with a gauge. I changed this harness and symptoms went away. It's the thick gauge wire all the way to the left. This needs to be changed with a new alternator. Many people prob don't know their harness is causing high resistance affecting the quality of smoothness.
The hotter the car gets the worse it gets if you have this issue. More RPMS, is more electricity and more resistance. There is no CEL for this. The harness should be copper colored, if it turns silver it's old and needs to be swapped. If you drive low Rpms all the time you won't notice. But it's an R, who does this?
The harness is around $90 and car has to be in service mode to get to the alternator. This is my 2nd alternator and kept my original harness when replaced, bad idea.
It takes under 20 seconds to pop the hood and open the fuse box to see what color your harness cable is. I expect most to be silver not copper, but whether you have symptoms or not depends on severity.
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