Golf IV R32 :: Check Engine Light On And Off When Driving On High Speed
Sep 6, 2011
I was driving on a high speed highway (70 limit) doing 80 on cruise control and about 10 mins into my drive the car disengaged itself of the cruise control and the check engine came on for about 5 seconds while the car was forcefully slowing down by itself and then the check engine disappeared and I accelerated back to 80 and set it again for the rest of my hour drive. It wasn't just disengaging of cruise control it was like the engine shut off for a few seconds and then came back on.
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My truck is a 1997 nissan pickup with. 254,000 miles. Check engine light come on. Only when I am at highway speed. As long as I am in city traffic, nothing I have a code scanner code (PO302) number 2 cylinder misfiring. I change spark plugs and wires and dist cap. But check engine light came back on. I put in shop they claim that they can't find nothing wrong. I guess I need to find a new mechanic.
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I have a 2004 Sebring my check engine light is on and the RMP's are really high while Im driving. What could be going on?
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2015 gti 6mt. Just after car wash today engine light came on, then I noticed the gauge was running at 270 just below redline.
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I have a 93 3000gt VR4 with 214,000 miles on her at the moment. As I am cursing at a speed of 55 the check engine light comes on and stay on for a while then as sudden as it came on it goes off still driving at 55 or less depens on traffic. My question is why is this happening? I took it to AMMCO to have the code check but they could not because the check engine light is not constantly. I do not have a code sxanner for the car to read the codes if any. The engine runs strong I tried to see if I could get the check engine light to come on but to no avail. Could it be a sensor going bad or the ECU I had trouble with it before and had the dealer replaced it.
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I recently got a 2001 Mk4 GTI from carter Volkswagen in Seattle with 113k on it last friday (it did come with the car fax). I drove it back home to Wenatchee and it ran fine and is still running fine... I think. Today as i was coming home from school the check engine light came on when i was in 3rd gear and the car just wasn't driving as smooth as it was the first day (it felt as if i was driving over really really small bumps or like something was loose and was moving around a lot).
When I would get to a red light and be in first gear the light went off but it came back on as i would shift into 3rd and stayed on when i got into 5th. It recently had its oil changed at 112,000 miles. Also when the car is just idling the tachometer is going up and down a little bit, it is idling at about 600-700 rpms. I got this car because i didn't want to have a car with problems any more (I had an 88 Isuzu Trooper before).
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My 04 GTI 1.8T got the infamous codes P0300, P0303 and P0301 yesterday morning. The check-engine light flash when I drive it. It is a little rough when the check-engine light flashes, but it is drivable and nothing major. When the car idle or when it come to a complete stop for 15 seconds or so, the check-engine light goes away and it comes back after 15 seconds or so after took off from stop.
I cleaned the MAF last night, but the check-engine light still acts the same way as yesterday on the way work this morning. The codes refer to miss-fire. This is my first VW.
Since I can easily get sparkplug from Checkers, I'll try it first. Checkers carries Autolite, ACDelco, NGK and Champions. Which brand do you prefer for VW engine? I hope that it is not the coil pack. It is expensive for $30 each at ECS Tuning.
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2004 Golf, manual transmission. The yellow check engine light comes on when it's driven on the highway for more than 10 miles or so (60-70 mph).
The light goes off on it's own after about 36 hours of suburb driving - 1-2 miles at a time on suburb roads, lots of lights and not going over 40 mph.
1) Why the light is coming on? No other signs of trouble occur - oil looks good, temp stays fine, no smells, etc.
2) Why the light goes off after 4-6 miles/36hours?
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2013 Elantra (40k miles) just started having intermittent high engine rev while driving at low speeds (30-40 MPH). The rev last 1-3 seconds no engine codes showing up. The transmission does not feel like it is slipping.....
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I have a 2005 honda accord. When I was driving today it started to rain, so I turned on my wipers, at first they were ok, but later I noticed the wipers speed went down, and then the check engine light came on, I was still able to use the wipers and everything looked fine. I just had someone changed my oil on Tuesday. I got a new car and I only drove less than one hour per week using this old car. Is it possible the battery or alternator is bad? I will read the code tomorrow.
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I just completed my move from Pennsylvania to Denver CO, and my check engine light is lit up (orange) today. It wasn't on for the drive, but came on this morning when I started the car, after a few days in the parking spot.
I heard it might be a gas tank pressure thing, but the light is still on after filling up today. I'm sure it's a result of the thinner air up here, but should I be worried? Does this warrant a trip to a dealership? Or should I just stick it out until my next oil change (in maybe a month or so)?
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Went to the dealer because my idle was running both too low and/or too high, check engine light came on.
1) Replace air intake manifold because air flow flap is faulty.
2) Oil leak out of upper and lower timing belt covers - need to replace gaskets.
3) Missing!!! the high note horn
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My check engine light came on today and while driving, the idle (RPM's) were very high. At about 80KMs, it was about 3500 and when I accelerated, the engine would race along with the RPMs. While stopped, idling seems fine. I couldn't get over 80KMs/Hr without the idle going too high.
What it could be? Haven't had time to check codes as it is long weekend and garages are now closed till tuesday.
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For the past couple weeks my check engine light has come on due to the code reading high purge flow sensor. I checked my gas cap, lines that run from motor to the gas tank and the purge flow that's under the intake. Can't figure out what is exactly going on. And it has 53k miles and runs just fine...
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While I am driving the car it will start to die and skip. Happens randomly. Today I was driving up a small hill and it went quits on me started lurching with check engine light coming on and off. The car will turn over and start, but only for a few seconds before dying again.
Seems to happen when the car is running for a while. Also the ABS light flashes on then off randomly while driving sometimes although It hasn't been an issue. Will be checking tomorrow to see if it starts.
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I've just done an engine swap to my 2000 GTS Celica. The new engine seems to run nice and tight and smooth and everything but I can't seem to bring the idle down. It stays revving at about 2000 RPM and the check engine light is on. The engine is from Japan and only has 35,000 kms. on it.
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1995 Cadillac DeVille 4.9 L Check engine soon light comes on, battery voltage high. When I increase speed the head lamps get brighter when I decrease speed the head lamps get dimmer. I changed the alternator because that's what a mechanic said I needed but I still have the problen battery voltage high. Will this damage the battery or other components? Should I stop driving the car.
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My Prius just reached 200000 km this week. I bought it at 180000 km 2 years ago, I don't drive it that much simply because I work from home.
Today, a sunny day, 0 degrees, the check engine just lit-up. I opened the hood and checked fluid levels, all OK. I started it and listened to the engine, running as usual. However, when the motor stopped (hybrid ON), I can hear a high frequency noise. I don't remember hearing this noise, but I don't think I ever opened the hood with the engine Off but powered On.
How can I get the check engine code ? I assume I need a connector, right ?
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My check engine light just came on while driving home tonight. And there seems to be a weird rattly engine noise on the passenger side.
Just took the car to the mountains (800km round trip) all highway and got back Thursday night. Didn't drive yesterday, and today I took it out for a bit and it felt sort of loose... I don't know how else to explain it. Throttle didn't seem as responsive. I've only just hit the 6000km mark on it, and had the flash done at 4000km.
What in the world is wrong with my car? And now I can't even take it in til Tuesday because of the holiday.
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So, for the first time in 6 years and 82K miles, the engine light (malfunction indicator light) came on while driving and stayed on (no blinking... knock on wood). This is about a week after passing the emissions test. I turned the gas cap three ticks, so I'm hoping that the light will go off in a few days.
The manual seems to say that if it blinks you should proceed at reduced power and get it checked out immediately. Do I have to drive slow if it's not blinking? I'm a good two hours from home and I'd prefer to drive at my normal pace. This is probably nothing, right?
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I have a 2009 model with 99980 miles. Just this morning while driving to work, the CEL came on, yet no noticeable difference in how the car drives/sounds.
Question: Is the CEL set to come on just before the car reaches 100K miles? I plan to have AutoZone read the codes today, but just wondering if this is a sw program for routine maintenance at the 100,000 mile mark.
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