Golf IV R32 :: Code For Misfires In Cylinders 1 And 2
Jul 16, 2014
My girlfriend's MkV Jetta 2.0T is throwing a code for misfires in Cylinders 1 and 2. I've already switched out the plugs and coilpacks with no change. I'm going to try re-positioning the coilpacks to see if the code follows. In doing some research, someone mentioned that it could be fouling on the injectors, which led me to BG44K. She has >215K miles. I figure she's gotta have some fouling that could be cleaned up. I have ~110K miles on my R32 - I figure it wouldn't hurt to do some cleaning in my own car.
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I have a 2001 1.8T Passat. I bought it used recently and have had tons of problems. I have been getting a lean air code for some time now and I think I recently resolved that. I had to replace a few vacuum lines, MAF, exhaust flex pipe (it was broken), fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator. The car was still running bad and throwing a lean air code (Bank 1) so I finally changed the O2 sensor and I think that did the trick. Now every time I start the car I get misfires until is warms up. I get misfires on all cylinders along with the multiple misfire code.
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So I have never worked on the 2.5 before, I have an 01 A4 1.8T so I am used to VAG products though. The other day my neighbor had a CEL light, when I read the code it was a misfire in cylinder 2. Since it was a single cylinder I told him it was most likely a coil pack but asked if he had ever done plugs. He bought the car with around 60k and it now has 90k but he didn't think they were ever done. So I suggested swapping them out with the new coil pack. So he bought a (5) plugs and (3) coils since that is all they had local. Initially he just replaced the one coil and said the car was running great. Then when he had time he threw the new plugs in (Autolite Iridium don't recall #) and put the other coils in. After doing this the car went into limp mode and is showing random misfires in all cylinders. He pulled one of the new plugs and noticed that the dimensions of the plug appear different than the OEM plug.
The OEM plug has a longer threaded section so it would project into the cylinder further and the insulator on the new plug appears to have several rubber seals on it. Since he is getting misfires on all cylinders I would think it is plug related especially since the plugs are dimensionaly different, but he even checked the manufacturers website and they say these are a direct replacement. Did they change the plug design or is this a known issue with some cross references?
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I am getting random misfires on cylinders 4, 5, and 6. Mostly on 6, less on 5, and even less on 4. Cylinders 1-2-3 show ZERO misfires. I am using vag-com to monitor these. Mostly doing it on idle, cruise seems fine but occasionally when shifting I feel it when engaging the next gear. It doesn't buck but I feel a little hesitation. Cruising and accelerating I do not feel it. Its very strange. A couple times during extended idling I have even gotten a flashing CEL. Fuel mileage has been pretty bad ever since I got the car in December. Average tank gets me 250-270.
I tried swapping coils with 123, and the problem stayed on 456. Coils are all new since I got the car. Plugs are fairly new (under 5K) and I pulled a couple to check, they looked fine and gap was about .028. I might try a new set but my gut is telling me the problem is some where else. I would like to verify/test grounds but I don't know where the harness grounds out.
I also want to get a vacuum gauge on the FPR, or check fuel pressure at idle. I replaced one cracked vacuum line, i am thinning there might be others since there seems to be miles of vacuum line on MK4's. Also have a new fuel filter to install, mine appears to be OEM and the car has 97K.
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I'm getting random misfires on all 5 cylinders on my 2013 2.5L with ~4200miles. Sometimes the CEL will stay on other times it just flashes and goes away. I've gone to multiple dealers and none of them has done anything but clear the codes because "we couldn't replicate the issue," or "It's just rev hang/drive by wire."
What are the known causes of a brand new car misfiring? And what should I have VW look at?
When I mentioned that our family has a 2007 Eos all three dealers were chomping at the bit for me to bring it in for recalls I didn't even know about. This really rubbed me the wrong way. I've got one car that I KNOW is malfunctioning that VW won't do any work on, but the other VW is volunteering to work on!
I've got another appointment set for tomorrow after I get off work. How to push the right buttons or say the right words?
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Ok so I'm having weird issues with my big turbo R. I thought I was having misfires in low rpm range. Car was stumbling and just not firing on all cylinders ( just an expression but that's what it felt like) realized it was because of the esp. Ok no the main issue. Vacuum was sitting around 14hg. When I come up to a light or stop sign or just put in neutral while moving it revs it self ad vacuum will go to almost 0hg until I come to a full stop.
The rev is not a big rev only like 100-150 rpm increase. Also the throttle response is not there if I go to rev match down shift. Here's the weird part. If I unplug the Maf it runs super smooth 19-20hg vacuum amazing throttle response clutch chatter almost goes away. There are no cel with or without the Maf plugged in I have logs for both...
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I have a mk4 1.8t Gti. Recently I have been having issues with idle and boost. I read the codes and multiple random misfires in all 4 cylinders came up, idle control and the crank, knock, and o2 sensor came up. Shows that system is running to lean as well. I changed the spark plugs and wires, check the coil packs they where done about 1k miles so I expect them to be perfectly fine. When I clear the codes it idles below 9-8k rpms. I also noticed the breather hose coming out of the valve cover into the EGT has a hole melted into it, could this cause any of my issues?
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OK. I have a 2005 Passat 1.8t fwd. Tiptronic. 105k
The symptoms i am having is random cylinder misfires on all 4 cylinders. I have scanned with vagcom multiple times and get the same codes. However, I have cleared the codes, and wen fpd a 60 mile drive on the turnpike. Not a single code. So everything is perfect as long as the car dissent have a chance to idle.
I have also driven the car while logging misfires and only get misfires at idle. Never while driving.
So much has been done to the car that is so hard to decide where to start. Ill try to go in order of events.
All this in the past 4 weeks by the way.
Took car to very experienced VW tech. Found out.timing was off by 3 degrees. So new timing belt, water pump and all. Started car, still had misfires. Noticed wetness on head gasket. And did a compression test. Very bad results. (I can't remember the numbers but they were way off from each other) So he removed the head. He said there was a crazy amount of carbon buildup in the combustion chamber. Everything was cleaned, head inspected for bent valves and everything looked perfect after cleaning. (this car has NEVER overheated by the way) He said it is very rare for a head gasket to fail on 1.8t's . So he did a leakdown test and turned out the piston rings were shot. So engine was rebuilt. All components cleaned of carbon, replaced all parts, bearings with new OEM parts. Pickup tube cleaned along with other oil lines. Turbo was inspected, and I was told it is on its way out but still has life. So that was let go for now. All reassembled and all hoses checked, combi valve cleaned, new k&n filter in stock airbox. So he told me the car is finished after all that. I was excited! Drove the car home 15 min drive, ran great. Parked in my driveway, put it in park and misfires came right back. Called him the next day and brought the car back. He looked over it and replaced the fuel pressure regulator with new. He said it seemed like a fuel starvation issue. Tested fuel pump and it was towards the low end of the proper operation value. So I had a high flow pump sitting at home brand new and I brought it down and put it in. Still misfires but a lot less than before. Also fuel filter was replaced. So next he disconnected the cat And found it was clogged. Replaced with my old Audi one, and it ran fine. And this is the first time the car idled good enough to get all the monitors set for emissions testing. So he was convinced it was fixed. Room it for a test drive and came back, parked And began misfiring again. So I was so sick of this thing at this point, I told him to replace the Turbo with brand new OEM unit. And it still misfires.
He swapped a known good throttle body into it and no difference. He also said that he started going around and unplugging sensors and the more sensors he unplugged, the better the car ran. He was curious whether the ECU was faulty. So he put an ECU from his Audi in it which had a ko4 file in it. He said it ran amazing!! So he modified an ECU from a stock Audi and that's what I am driving with now. Still same symptoms. But not as often. Also brand new bosch mass air sensor was installed as well. So this is as far as we have gotten with it and I am so sick of this car right now. But we are both determined to get this thing fixed! And after all the money I have just spent, I can't even get rid of it or I will lose a lot of money. It really sucks because I love the car and so does my wife. And out of the three 1.8t's that I own, I have never had any major issues like this.
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Just replaced all 6 plugs after getting p0300-p0306 codes. Still getting all codes, always starting with p0305. Was told coil was bad cause the shop only was getting p0305, but I have all misfire codes. We have over 95k on it, have owned since 2008. Its the 2.7 in it.
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Okay vortex here's what's happening in my 20th. About a month or so ago a CMP sensor went out, so I replaced that with a OEM sensor, on my way home my car started to misfire. So I took it easy the rest of the way home. The next day I started my car up and there were no misfires, drove to school, still no misfires but the check engine light was still on from the night before, after school on my way to get the codes ran it started to misfire again but then it stopped a few min into the drive.
Ever since then it has misfired but not all the time but maybe 1- 2 times a day then it would stop misfiring after a few min/seconds. My and my friend did the coil pack test and all the coil packs were good, yesterday (10/14/10) I replaced my plugs with NGK BKR7E plugs gapped at .028, my car is chipped with unitronic stage 2 tunning and it still misfired. I am going to clear all the codes and restet my ECU, but can you till do that with a unitronic ecu?
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I have 11 tiguan 2.0T. When I start it up is runs rough below 1200 rpm. The check engine light starts flashing. The codes are all 4 cylinders for random cylinder misfire. When I go drive it around the roughness calms down but doesn't go away and the idle will start jumping up and down. It goes to 1500 back to 800. Then 1700 back to 800. It had even hit 2400 once. I have changed the pcv about 2 months ago. I checked it and it looks fine. One place said maf. I cleaned it and no change. Running out of options.
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My 2000 Excursion, 6.8L V10 misfires when I try to start it, after a rain storm, and for the longest time, I could not figure out what was going on. After much use of a garden hose, to make rain, I found the rear two cylinder wells, on passenger side fill with water, due to a design defect in the engine hood that causes run off down that side of the engine. I visited with a mechanic, and was told that the hood design is common to a lot of the F series trucks, and the 8 and 10 cylinder engines are prone to the water buildup in the passenger rear spark plug wells. I am going to try to put a shield of some sort, around the two cylinder wells, to divert the water.
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I'm getting Codes: P0300-306 (Misfires) and P0356.
I have researched the definitions of these codes and see that P0356 indicates an ignition coil failure on coil "F" (which would be Cylinder 6?)... but how is it possible only one coil is failing but I'm getting multiple/random misfires on all cylinders?
I've looked at the wiring diagrams and the only place that I can see a "single point failure" that can cause such a thing, would be the ECM itself...
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I have a 2006 Chrysler Sebring Convertible 2.7L engine. Replaced water pump and spark plugs. We triple checked the alignment on the chain and are sure the timing is fine. Car started right up. Now running rough idle and engine light comes on. Codes read misfires on 1, 3, and 5 cylinders.
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I recently bought my 2010 gti used with 62k miles on it about 3weeks ago. The car had an carbonio intake stage 1 and a stage 1 tune from Apr when I had bought it. On the test drive and for the first two weeks I had it I did not have any problems. A few days ago on a cold start my car threw an MIL and it was flashing. When I got to school I plugged it into the obd2 scanner. Code read P0303: misfire cylinder 3 detected.
My teacher and I went over possibilities of the misfire. Coil pack, plugs , injector, valve float( even tho this should not occur at 1300rpm cold start) we also thought that maybe because the car is direct injection the valve was not closing all the way due to carbon build up on the top of my valves which in this case I'm glad I don't have an interference head. I moved around the coil packs. What is the cause of this? I'm only misfiring at start and when the engine isn't warms up to operating temp.
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I have a 2004 Jetta 1.8t 6speed, I recently bought it from a person(my first VW ever) so just trying to fix some things on it, One thing that I'm stuck at is My CEL, it keeps flashing the code P0501 and some random misfire on my cylinders, I have reset it and they keep coming back.
when I put about 10-15% throttle it revs up fine, no misfire or hesitation until the fuel gets cut off around 5500, which is 1k below factory red line, does not hit a thing like the rev limiter where it pegs off the top multiple times just fuel cuts off.
If i put anything above the said pressure the car then begins to misfire and lots of hesitation and that's what causes those codes to go off.
I've been reading many things pointing towards the engine speed sensor or the wiring. Occasionally my fuel/temp gauge quit working but I believe that is a separate issue all together.
So really trying to narrow down what is actually causing my engine to hesitate at low rpm.
Also i might note when I'm in neutral I can go wide open throttle and the car revs fine until the cutoff and only does the bog down when it's under full load. It sorta feels like the possible misfire is due to bad air/fuel but really do not know.
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I have an 02 Civic EX. Engine light has been on for over a year, runs just fine. Reading misfires on 3 cyl, and cat code. I have since: changed all plugs and coils, changed both front and rear o2 sensors....switched coils around to see if code misfires changed (yes).
I see this is a common problem but no one has a solution..? I'd rather NOT change the cat converter and pay for that only to find out the light stays on. Need to smog so I can sell!
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I am trying to get a 2009 Sonata NF with a 3.3L V6 to run correctly and i have tried everything that i can find and still get the problem. The car runs very rich with a strong gas smell. The engine runs rough but doesn't stall. The car has has period where it runs fine and then the issue returns but is in more frequent and steady now. The car will run for the first 5 minutes great if it is cold and it also runs good at full throttle and the check engine light went off during hard acceleration which seems consistent with getting too much fuel. I bought a BlueDriver to read the codes and I love the data it provides but I am learning all the features.
For a little history the car has 95,250 miles. At 81157 miles the check engine light came on and an independent shop replaced the downstream O2 sensor and the light has been off for 2 years until coming back on recently. The code showing was a P0300. The shop replaced spark plugs and the manifold gasket with and oil change for $775. The check engine light stayed off for about a month and 550 miles. The car was taken back to the shop and they replaced the rear O2 sensor for $429 . The check engine light was off for a couple of days and then returned with the P0300. It might go a couple of days without a problem and then it would return.
This is when I got the car and started reading all the forums i could for possible causes. I saw the Tech Bulletin on the Variable Valve Timing Oil Control Solenoids so i replaced both valves. The check engine light returned with a P0303 for cylinder 3 misfire so i figured it was a coil so i replaced all the coils. The P0300 code returned. I check fuel pressure after seeing a post about fuel pressure regulators causing the problem but the pressure was correct. I changed the Mass Flow Sensor figuring it was getting too much gas but no improvement. I bought the BlueDriver so I could see more than just the codes. The O2 sensor looked erratic so i changed the front upper O2 sensor.
I found the Tech Bulletin about the O2 sensors fuel trim readings and realized there was an upper sensor on the back manifold and it was reading -18% so i changed it and now I don't know which way to go. I currently have the P0303 code confirmed and P0300 pending. With the live data the items that looked strange at idle were O2 Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2 steady at 99.2% and Calculated Engine Load a 21.6%. The freeze frame data from when the light came on has all the short fuel trim at 0.0% and long term at -0.8% for both banks. Calculated Engine Load was 45.9% even though I was trying to drive slowly at 29 mph. Mass Air was 21.71 g/s, I had been running 3 minutes from a slightly warm start, Absolute engine load was 44.3%. Anything else to check or data I should look at?
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I have a 2008 model 2.7 v6 with 80000 Km, and I would like to share my experience with several issues:
- Random misfire: brought the car to Hyundai, very bad response. I bought online the wiring of the spark plugs (according to them that was the reason of the misfire) and they installed it, did not improve. The car was still showing error code after clearing, and the fuel consumption at an average of 23L/100km.
- I then decided to change all the 6 spark plugs, no difference. The workshop told me the coils were in perfect condition. Still having a message like this: "ignition error on 2 or more spark plugs".
- I did a complete cleaning with contact spray of the MAF sensor.
- I bought online a couple of ignition coils, being original Hyundai ones, and changed them. When installing them i realized the existing ones were not original Hyundai and had a small marking, making me think they were recycled or chinese stuff.
- Having done that, the OBDII shown two more error codes: P341: error on camshaft position sensor, P2189: fuel idle (too much air, maybe caused by the first one). Changed both camshaft position sensors and then big change in the behaviour, more response, throttle, better gear switching.
- I so concluded that the 4 remaining coils have to be changed and ordered another time 4 of them online. OBDII showing now only one error code: random misfire. The engine going much better than all i got before.
- I have decided to take advantage of this order and also ordered a new TPS (seeing here that it was a common problem) and a Crankshaft position sensor (in order to prevent any other issue).
- I also changed previously 2 downstream o2 sensors that were giving an error related to emission. Emission here are not strictly controled so it is not a big issue.
My question is, what in all that sensors can more likely make my car burn 23L/100km??? Asian cities are quite similar to american cities, lots of highways. This consumption compared to what you describe is way over the normal one isn't it? I was assuming the ignition problem was the responsible, am i right?
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My accent 2006 has the check engine code p0171. AT mornings I have to start the car like 5 times until it revs up and do not stall. Also when the car is running, If I press the gas too much it starts misfiring and have really slow acceleration. I have already change the 02 Sensor, spark plugs, TPS and maf sensor, and PSV valve, cleaner the throttle. I really don't know what else to look for.
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A few months ago I had multiple misfires due to a failed coil. When it happened I drove it enough to get to an Advance auto to have the code checked that came up. After I replaced the coil the car ran fine, but then the engine light came on with the P0422 bank 1 code. Does this mean the manifold cat converter is shot? The car runs fine except for what feels like the transmission trying to decide where it wants to be around 40mph (like it's shifting back and forth, don't know if it's related). I have a flex pipe that is leaking and needs replaced. I haven't noticed any loss in MPGs (consistently 26mpg city since I started checking). I have 133k miles.
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