Golf IV R32 :: Popcorn Noise At Low Speed - CV Joint Failure?
Mar 13, 2010
Last night while driving home I had noticed a slight popping noise when starting from a stop. It got worse by the time I was 1 mile from home. Sounded like popcorn popping in my passenger wheel well. I can feel it in the steering wheel. Limped home with flashers on. Investigated this morning:
1. Wheel lugs are tight
2. No ball joint movement in/out
3. Wheel liner clearance OK
4. Sway bar, links & bushings OK
5. C/A bushings and bolts OK
6. Strut bolts OK
7. Brakes, rattle clip OK
8. CV Boots OK (hence I question a cv failure)
9. Wheel weights appear OK
10. Upper Strut mounts seem OK
11. DG skid plate and splash guards OK
12. Coilover span nuts tight
13. Subframe bolts & steering rack tight
One thing I didn't do was push down on the hood / upper strut area to confirm shock is okay. I'm running pss9 coilovers, C/A bushings replaced at 50k miles, strut mounts (INA) @ 75k. Car has 94k.
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My passenger side lower ball joint failed going 60 mph down the highway. I was able to slow the car and get it towed home. After the incident I noticed the lower control arm was on the ground. I assume it drug on the ground from 60 mph all the way til I could stop the car. I inspected it, and it 'seems' fine. Cheaper to just replace all the upper and lower ball joints and quicker, but should I err on the side of caution and bite the bullet and get a whole lower control arm with ball joints? Ever heard of Mevotech? I know nobody can actually see it, this is an internet forum, just wondering. My gut feeling says to get a new one but replacing it is not gonna be fun (coil spring, strut, etc etc).
1996 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, 77K on the clock
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The other day in our 2001 Honda Accord sedan, 4cyl, 140k miles, we were driving and the wheel became, how do you say, less attached to the car than it used to be? The wheel and the car had a nasty break-up and we were caught right in the middle of it. (see pictures) We were driving down a straight road, going straight, and boom, the wheel fell off and the car landed on one of the suspension bits . We were doing 30 and did fine. But we had literally just exited the freeway, where we were doing 70, a minute or two before this happened. Further, there was no noise, no vibration before this happened. The car was acting quite normally.
We had it fixed at a Honda dealership. We were on the road and it set us back $1070 and a full day. But there you are. So the problem is fixed, and I asked the dealership people to please inspect the other ball joints.
But...now I'm paranoid every time I drive the car. And I want to check them for myself. I read about the jack the car up and try and shake the tire trick. Is that foolproof? Is there more I can do to make certain that all the remaining bits that are supposed to be holding the wheel on are not, in fact, about to break?
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I think it is cv joint not sure. [URL] .....
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My car now occasionally makes a click (actually closer to a clunk because you can even feel it a little through the fire wall and steering wheel) when turning the wheel to the right. It doesn't matter if the car is moving or not. It doesn't do it all the time, only occasionally.
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Wife driving R with around 1,800 miles. Car build date 10/12; engine build date 10/19/12.
Car shuts off at highway speed; red steering wheel indicator is illuminated (not flashing) indicating power steering failure. No gauges, radio, other electrics work. I know about the "electromechanical" power steering set up, but is this the cause or the result of a possible water pump failure?
Car was just towed to dealer; dealer said they will diagnose in the morning.
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At 50 MPH and above, a popcorn popping sound occurs - varying fast and slow - only began after car was serviced. Can't find the source. Checked since it started and still nothing found - but new thermostat was installed, new gauge panel (due to car appearing to overheat but it was a faulty gauge), new wiper arms installed (thought they were the cause), running board rubber re-attached (thought it was flapping) - none of these were the cause because it is still occurring.
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I just pulled my axles, cleaned and regreased the cv's, and replaced all the torn boots with better ones. Now it seems as though the joints make noise when they didn't before. It's kind of a metal scraping sound, at low speed over sudden bumps, when the wheels are turned.
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Every time we turned right in our 2013 elantra, I kept hearing a clicking noise, almost like a cv joint going out. So we took it in to the dealership to look at that as well as our peeling steering wheel. They informed me I have a bent rear cross member (I coulda swore that noise was coming from the front). I'm not sure if a cross member is the right word, because its the structural piece that connects the two rear wheels together, so ill call it an axle. The drivers side rear wheel was bent in both directions; the top was bent out and the front of the wheel was bent in I think. They showed this to me, and it was definitely bent all out of wack. The thing is, neither me nor my wife can recall a time when we hit a significant enough of a pothole/curb in order to do this kind of damage! Either way, it has to be fixed.
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I noticed a clicking noise while parking my car this weekend and looked to see that indeed my CV boots were torn and grease is everywhere. I know the easiest way to go is to replace the axle....
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I was putting on the H& R sports springs tonight and was onto the last corner, front passenger when one of the 3 ball joint bolts broke off. It was so rusted that the nut didn't want to come loose. I used too much force and out came the piece. Do I just go buy a new ball joint at the local VW dealer and swap it out. I didn't touch the other two and the car is still driveable. It's the middle one, exactly as shown in this photo from the DIY.
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So I was at a track event and pushing 150 mph and heard this terrible sound. I look in rear view mirror and saw something black flying through the air. I thought it was my carbon fiber diffuser but turned out to be this.
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The '04 Camry with 72K miles is making a little of the clunking noise when the steering is hard-over to the right (have not tested left yet). My education on this site says it's the CV joint. So, how urgent is it to get this fixed? The car is getting used probably less than 8K miles/year.
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I just purchased a 2001 Accent GL, while driving at highway speed it sounds like knobby tire noise on the road, when i turn to the right the noise goes away, does this indicate left CV bad ? is there any bearings up front or is it all CV axle ?
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Had to get a state inspection this month, and originally failed due to front right outer tie rod and both control arm bushings -- i bit the bullet and had the shop do this work for me, since I am going on vacation this week and i plan on using my car.
Anyhow, got the car back, and now i can hear a light clicking or tapping noise, but i can only really hear it when i put the window down, or if im driving by one of those concrete median dividers. Its as if someone is taking the metal tip of a screwdriver amd tapping it against a hollow metal bowl -- it makes a clicking noise, not a clunking or whirring noise...
I can only hear it when i hit 20mph; any less and i cant hear the clicks. At 20mph, its a slow, faint click that seems to be closely related to the wheel spinning. At 40mph, i can hear it is much faster, but just barely louder. I hear it best at abouf 25-30 mph, before road noises begin to over power the clicks.
Turning does not seem to affect the clicking, nor does braking. Its just constant -- if the wheel is spinning over 20mph, its clicking. Whether i coast or accelerate does not matter. I checked for rocks/nails in my treads, and with the exception of quite a few tiny rocks (which i took out), there doesn't seem to be anything remarkable. I checked my CV boots, and i cant find any signs of tearing or leaking grease...
If it is my CV Joint, wouldnt the mechanic that did my inspection, who caught my tie rod and control a bushings, and who did my alignment -- wouldnt he have also noticed something odd about my CV Joint, if something is indeed wrong?
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I need to replace a cv joint on my mk4 golf and was wondering if I will need to get a front end wheel alignment done once I have completed the job...
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I hit one f-ing pothole and it blew my tire and bent the inside of my rim slightly, now this was a few weeks ago. ever since I have had this weird vibration noise going vvvrm vvvrm vvvrm when I get the car up to speed. took it to the dealer today and they are saying the wheel bearing is already bad!?!?! the car has 1500 miles on it. I hit a million potholes in my mk4 and had more than 150k on the clock before my wheel bearing went bad. I am not impressed with VW's craftsmanship if this is how its going to be. Now, the wheel is still round otherwise I would be hearing a thump thump thump while driving wouldn't I? also the tire is still holding air, no leaks since I had the new tire mounted. but the dealership is saying that the wheel is so bent its part of the problem.
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I have a 1994 ford ranger 4 cylinder manuel transmission regular cab. I am hearing a grinding noise when I push and hold my clutch down. It doesn't make any noise when my foot is off the clutch. It makes the noise off and on when i stop at a light or stop signs. I have also noticed a vibration at certain speeds around 30 and then again around 70. What is the cause of these noises? Could it be my U joint?
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2003 Golf GTI Turbo... New to VW, I'm a jeep guy and bought a GTI for my wife to try rally cross in. It had some problems that I knew about when I bought it, had to replace CV shafts, control arms, fix broken trans mount, etc. I'm on to the last piece of the puzzle now.
The expansion joint on the downpipe from the turbo is basically exploded. Not a big deal, just buy a new downpipe and biky everything together right? Not so much. Bought one the other day, it showed up and has 3 bolts on turbo side, mine has 4.
When I look at the other stock turbo downpipes, it looks like they have 3 bolts as well. What's going on? Did the previous owner put a different turbo on this? I just need the damn downpipe, but can't figure out which one to order.
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I travel highway daily at 70+mph and it's pretty annoying, nothing the radio won't fix but sometimes I like to have a conversation with passengers and find myself talking over it.
I have a 2DR Base, MFD 04/12.
I've tried the vinyl tubing thing and that did nothing. Had the dealer look at it when it was in for the service and they said it was "within spec", I stopped up there today and tried looking up any TSB's with the service advisor and most of the ones we found were for the GTI. My issue starts about 60-70 mph and gets worse the faster you go. The noise sounds like it's coming from the top of the window - almost like the window is cracked about 1/8".
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I've had my R sitting on KW variant 1 coils for about a month now. When I first installed the coils, I adjusted them WAY too low for my liking (looked flawless but wasnt practical for my driving conditions). On my first couple of drives, I noticed a "popping" sound at very low speeds (like when exiting a parking spot) when turning my steering wheel. It was as though my wheels would turn to a certain point and "pop," it sounds like something popped out of place. If I move my steering wheel back and forth to repeat the popping sound, the sound does NOT repeat (it only happens once in awhile).
With the car stationary, I have looked into the wheel wells with my friends turning the wheels and I dont see anything rubbing. I have since raised the car VERY slightly (still sits on about a 1/2 finger gap) and still, when I first get in the car in the morning and pull out of my garage, I hear this slight pop.
I am planning on doing the "tab mod" on my fenders this weekend because I am rubbing on the tab on high speed turns, but I don't think this has anything to do with the popping. The car drives fine and my friends and I have installed coils tons of times without any problems.
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