I need to have my DSG checked out.. Extremely jerky starting out in first gear when very hot out and engine warmed up --most noticeable when just easy on the accelerator. Need to get the ok for mechanotronic replacement. Who to trust for a reliable job and evaluation of the problem.
View 3 RepliesMy beloved Treg is marooned at the dealer again, having been towed there this morning. Transmission is all over the place...shifts into 5th and stays there, or extremely jerky shifts - especially downshifts. Gear position indicator is highlighted in red and no longer indicates which gear I'm in. Check engine light is on; no message in MFI...
Incidentally, it appears that the dealer and/or VWOA is starting to understand how to treat luxury vehicle buyers. Roadside assistance was very responsive and courteous. Dealer set me up with a rental from Budget...made a point to have me pick something similar to the Treg (not a POS econobox). I'm driving a Ford Exploder...a far cry from the Treg, but at least it's an SUV and has similar seating and hauling capacity.
I have been noticing that my GTI seems jerky (head bobbling) at low CONSTANT speeds on the highway during my morning commute. For example if I leave it in first and get the speed constant at 10-15km at 1,000 - 1,500 rpms I feel the car to be jerky. Even at low speed/rpm gear changes (1'st - 2nd). Anything past 2,000k RPM is fine though.
Is this normal? Or should I bring this up with my dealer and have them take a look at it. It's just annoying because I don't notice this in the city, just only in bumper to bumper highway driving at a constant low speed in 1st/2nd.
So I've upgraded to K04, and also have put in a DXD Stg2 clutch/flywheel. The issue is that when it engages in 1st gear, it's jerky. No other gear does this, 1-2, 2-3 etc is fine. It's when I'm slowly engaging the clutch from a stand still, it's not a smooth event. Under WOT in all gears it holds just fine too, no slipping or anything else. Slight chatter at idle when the pedal is out, but it's what is to be expected w/ a single mass. I'm very sure that everything was installed correctly. Is this a symptom of an upgraded clutch? I've driven Dave's GTI w/ a STG 3 clutch, and it didn't do that?
View 17 RepliesWhen I come to traffic and slow down, I have this jerky feeling when I'm coming to a stop. It's not from my brake or transition from gear changing. It's repetition of jerky feeling, not like one jerk from second to first gear.
For example, I'm in my first gear and stopped on the road. If I release the brake pedal and do NOT press gas, my car slowly moves forward with this jerky pulsation. It also makes noise (well.. I can hear it through my exhaust) while it moves. It feels like car is about to move, then stops, then moves, then stops.... I don't really get this when I apply gas.
I'm completely aware a lifted truck will not ride factory and most likely ride harder. But this is ridiculous.
So I bought a 8" super lift for my F250 7.3 2000, although the price is very cheap at that shipped to my door debating if I have messed up either with the brand or somewhere because I feel like I went from a casual ride in my lovely 7.3 to feeling like a horse carriage of a few century's ago.
Lift is setup with lift leaf springs in the front, one add a leaf in the rear with a block, and 4 new shocks and all the other hardware included to do the lift.
I'm wondering if it's possible the springs are installed wrong, or the shocks are just that bad or if there a weird issue I've over looked.
Tire pressure is set to 35-40 psi all around on toyo open country mts, (which I was running before the lift so that hasn't changed) but I mean this is so stiff that when I hit a bump my steering wheel jerks and I feel like my suspension has absolutely no flex in it. Debating on returning to stock or not at this point...
So I took my car in for the recall last night and also told my service advisor that my transmission has been a bit jerky lately. Kind of felt like the clutch was slipping when you start going from dead stop, and clunk here, clunk there.
After their diagnostics it seems to be the Mechatronics unit, apparently about 50% of our cars had the issue. The part would have to be ordered from VW due to it being made per VIN and is on back order. They didn't have the reacall parts in stock so I had to leave my car there. Stuck in a bright red Jetta now.
A cold engine crank will turnover and start normally. But stop to run and errand or grab lunch...and the warm 302 2 barrel engine will turn over very sluggishly, lke the battery is dying. If you wait until the engine is cool, an easy start is assured but that takes hours! A local repair shop has rebuilt the carb, the battery & cables are new, and the starter works fine when engine is cold. My local repair shop is out of suggestions. It seems to work a little to hold the gas pedal down on the floor for a warm engine start....but engine still turns over sluggishly when trying to start when warm. Now If I drive it.....I just drive it around town a bit then back home ...unless I stay several hours somewhere while the engine cools....but that's not fun. It is a convertible, fun to drive...and this problem needs to be solved.
View 14 RepliesTruck runs great if I get it started. Here are symptoms.
-Extremely hard to start when engine is cold
- It will start fairly quick if plugged in all night
- After running there is no issues with starting unless sits over night
- Batteries good and engine cranks fast
- Tests and parts I have replaced
- Replaced GPM (Glow Plug Module) I do not have the relay as most seem to have on their engines. I did replace this unit.
- Replaced Glow plugs all 8 this morning. Since they where cheap enough it did not hurt the wallet.
- Replaced crank position sensor. Tach moves when engine is cranking.
- Checked the HPOR and it has oil about 1/2" from top.
Now what is left to check besides doing a buzz test to rule out injectors? Also if truck runs fine and does not run rough could injectors still be bad?
This morning when I started my car the RPMs were all over the place. The engine would rev to just below 2k and then drop, as it it were gonna die and right before it did, it would rev back up. Then, when I tried to move it, it would not accelerate and would hardly move and while coasting it dies if the clutch is depressed. The car does not die when idling (albeit a very rough idle) but it does when it is moving.
It flashed a check engine for a few seconds at one point but went away and has not come back on. I am running APR Stg 1 and a Carbonio intake. I switched from 93 octane mode to stock and nothing changed.
I know this issue has been posted and discussed multiple times on early Gen 3 Prius'. That said, I don't see much on it regarding the Prius v ( lowercase v for the Prius v wagon, not an uppercase ). There is also of course a TSB for earlier Prius' that had the issue.
I can readily replicate the issue in that almost every time I 'think' it may happen the next time I start the vehicle, it does in fact do so.
If I move the vehicle from the garage to the driveway or around in the driveway to clear snow, the ICE fires for a few seconds then I shut it off as the car is where I need it. Upon the next ICE start, there is a horrible knocking under the hood somewhere. Different from the previous messages and the TSB itself is that I never get an error code or MIL.
I'm to the point where if I move the car, I let it warm up completely. I figure I'm better off wasting fuel than subjecting my Prius to whatever horrible thing is happening under the hood if I don't.
Been having this problem since this past Easter when our mechanic installed new valve cover gaskets.
When the van is hot (normal operating temperature) and you turn it off just for a minute, like to get gas, and try and restart it acts like it’s not getting enough gas. It will cough and sputter and balk. It will finally start though and after 30 second all will calm down and it will run fine.
One big problem is, is that is intermittent – meaning it won’t mess up for the mechanic and putting it on the computer shows nothing wrong.
One mechanic said it was a cracked distributor. Replaced that for $400. and same problem. I’ve also cleaned the Mas Air Flow sensor and changed the fuel filter.
'92 Dynasty is a good runner, but, once the engine gets warmed up, I shut off the engine at my own risk. If the car sits for a while with the hood open, it will start again, but attempting to start immediately after shutting off will result in the engine spinning over but no sounds of attempted ignition. It seems that once the coil is cooled down to slightly more than body temp the engine will start like nothing was wrong.
View 3 RepliesIs this a warm stall issue and if so what is the actual solution to it ?
- Car is warm it will stall out at times after start . Giving it some gas will save it from stalling
- When dead cold it will have a very sluggish start
New plugs and coils. New fuel pump fuel filter & regulator . New crank sensor . Throttle body cleaned as well as maf. evap leaks all sealed up too. battery is good too
Very frustrating. Only solution would be to leave it at a shop for at least two hours so they could do live scans. But I'd rather not pay two hours of labor for nothing.
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When engine is cold it starts fine, when hot from driving (e.g. the engine's temperature display's needle is in the middle) i cannot start it unless i try 3-4 LONG keys. What can it be? Where should i start?
View 17 RepliesI had my car flashed 2 months ago with the APR software and have been loving it. Recently, about 4 days ago, I had an oil change and tire rotation and everything was fine. Yesterday, however, something strange happened. In first and second gears, I had no problem, but once I was in third gear, once over 4.5 RPM, the car started to jerk as if were having a hiccup. I then shifted and let it go over 4.5 in fourth, and had the same problem. I turned the car off for about an hour, and went back to driving and the problem was still there. This time, however, after the first jerk in third gear, the check engine light came on. The light is still there as of today. I've got a 2006 2.0T with A/T.
View 2 RepliesSo I started getting this metallic/harmonic whining sound from my GTI's engine a few weeks ago. It was barely noticeable then, but has now gotten louder and more consistent. The sound occurs once the engine has warmed up and can be reproduced by holding the revs constant anywhere above 2k. The sound does not change in pitch with engine speed. It doesn't matter if the car is parked or moving.
I've attached a video... The sound can heard starting at 00:23 and becomes constant after a few seconds. Its hard to hear at first, but if you listen carefully its definitely there.
I have an appointment with the dealer tomorrow and will update with their findings. In the meantime, any clue as to what this could be? I can't really pinpoint where its coming from, seems loudest near where the oil filter is? By the way I'm 100% stock.
I have a 2004 gls 1.8t Jetta. It has a straight piped turbo back exhaust, and a stage 2 tune. I recently had a problem with my car starting to rough idle when the engine gets to proper temp. The car starts to idle roughly, and when driving the car will bog down, if I keep my foot on the gas, the car acts like it is coasting and the rpms fall, but at some point the car will shoot off like i floored it. At lower rpms in the 1st and second gear, the car will randomly and periodically start bucking, with the same symptoms. I already replaced my coil packs and spark plugs with a kit off ecs, and when i went to change the spark plugs i had oil on the spark plugs and oil leaking from a bad valve cover gasket, so that was replaced as well. I replaced the fuel filter already.
The MAF sensor was just cleaned and didn't look too dirty. When I unplug the MAF it still idles rough. The fuel pump relay can be heard working properly when the door opens. Another problem that sometimes occurs on cold start is if I don't wait long enough for the pump to activate or sometime right after it starts, the car will start partly then stall out. When driving and the car is bucking the exhaust gives rich fuel smell. Also when 2 stepping in the car (which I don't do very often), the CEL starts to blink and the car misfires and drives rough. I figure since I don't have many parts on it yet I probably shouldn't do it anyway so I don't blow up the engine.
I have a 2006 Passat that I love but it's been doing something since it was new that has finally bothered me enough to do something about it. When the automatic transmission upshifts from 1st to 2nd, it feels really jerky - I don't know how else to describe it. It's like it surges and other times feels chunky. It seems worse after the car has sat overnight or during the day at work however it still does it even after being warmed up - just not as severely.
I called my VW dealership and spoke with a service rep and he suggested allowing the car to warm up for a few minutes before driving to let the transmission fluid 'pump' or something - not exactly confidence inspiring and even if that worked, not a good solution. The good news is that it doesn't work any better after doing that so I suspect something is actually wrong and hoping they will find it before it gets worse. I have an oil change this Thursday but based on my discussion with the service manager, I don't know that I am going to get very far with them.
So I have a 2006 Hyundai accent with 75000KM on it. I notice when it shifts from 1st to 2nd gear sometimes it will jerk. It feels almost as if it goes to neutral and then sifts, causing the whole car to jerk. It use to only do it when the car was cold (first 15 min of the day) but now it seems to be doing it all the time and getting worse. I have had the transmission fluid replaced, but it doesn't seem to work.
View 30 RepliesI just bought a brand new 2013 Elantra! I love the car, but over the past week or so I have started to feel the car's transmission (auto) jerk when it shifts from 3rd to 4th gear. I feel the car hesitate somewhat when going from 3rd and then jerk into 4th gear if that makes any sense. The car has less than 1000 miles and it never did it when I first bought it. The transmission was always smooth until recently. Also, when coasting down the road I feel the car jerk forward when I give it some gas which also feels very strange to me!?
View 37 Replies