Golf V R32 :: Slight Flickering In The Center Screen Between Gauges
Sep 2, 2008
So I bought my R32 at the end of this past March and the car currently has 10700 miles on it. over the last month I have noticed a slight flickering in the center screen between the gauges. its at random times of day, with random temperatures out side and random driving conditions. Now, starting about three days ago after driving in the car for about twenty minutes the screen will start to flicker a bit, and the middle climate adjustment knob shuts off. The two outter knobs are still lit up and so are the climate displays, but if you try to adjust the speed of the air flow, nothing happens until the car is restarted, and again only lasts for about twenty minutes before proceeding to shut off.
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I went to get in car today, and the driver screen, needles, and dash lighting was flicking or pulsing.. like a wave rolling through the lcd. its got 1k miles on it, jsw tdi.
i did open the trunk, without unlocking from fob, just trunk button, then it auto locked again when i shut it. have never done that before, so maybe this causes it? i let it sit awhile, and all back to normal.
on a side note, got my 20% tint on all around today and looking good need a drop then wheels.
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The screen that you see the temperature and see the the way that the AC is blowing started flickering for some time now . It's an electric problem ...I guess . Maybe the fuse is going bad ? -06 Azera ....
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My friend has a 2007 Hyundai Accent. I don't have any picture so I'll try to explain as best as I can. He has a problem with the braking light that is on the spoiler (it's an hatchback). All lights are very dim and flickering while the two bulbs on the right are solid. I believe the light assembly is dying and need to be replaced with new bulbs. The problem I have is I am not able to get to the assembly. I have the manual shop but it doesn't include instructions for the hatchback version.
There's a few black bolts/screws on the trunk lid. I removed those, but the spoiler doesn't want to move at all. I see 3 plastic trim that are beige. I believe there's more screws behind those. I don't know where the plastic holder are for the trim so I didn't try to remove them (I don't want to brake them!!). See the attached picture with the red circle for the black screws I am talking about.
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Today when I got to school and put my car in park the idle immediately went unusually rough. Then I noticed my passenger airbag light was flickering but also were all the other lights around there (Climate control, heated seat button, etc). I took a video to show it but you have to really look closely at the airbag light and even the ring around the fan speed dial. Now it gets even more interesting when I start my car to leave I notice it isn't on the average MPG screen anymore but rather trip A. So I switched it back but the average MPG had reset... but ONLY the average mpg and the time elapsed clock. Finally when I started driving it felt as if the transmission memory or the part that "tunes" the transmission to your driving habits had also reset as it was jerky, downshifting mainly (I know this because I've had it reset multiple times for various reasons and also when I disconnected the battery once). Loose battery terminal? HID's have anything to do with it?
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When I accelerate to merge onto the highway or pass my battery light blinks as well as my headlight flickering and a slight loss in power. My car has 140k miles on it, original battery which seems to test fine on my charger. I just change the spark plugs.
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Was driving today- had been on the road for about 30 mins, when suddenly the main screen above the center console went blank. It stayed blank for about 20s, and then returned to the A/C screen. I can't remember what it was on before it went blank - but it wasn't A/C. It is as though it's rebooted. It's forgotten what radio band and station it was on, but all other settings seem to have remained. No other sensations in the car - the multifunction display in the instrument cluster didn't blink.
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i have a camry xse 2015. In the center screen, where the car displays animations for door ajar and trunk open, I am wondering, is it supposed to display anything for hood open, when i pull the hood latch or open the hood. my car is not showing any thing on dash or center screen when i open the hood.
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While driving home from work today all my control functions stops working. All the steering wheel buttons, radio functions, and the center display screen all froze up. It wasn't until I restarted to car for everything to work again. What all that components have in common?
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I have on '06 V6. This slight rattle/vibration only happens during the first 5 minutes of driving, and only starts AS am driving down a slight hill from our development. It doesn't seem mechanical. It just sounds like an interior piece is loose. It seems to be coming from the center console or passenger seat area. It doesn't happen everyday. Once I am on the highway, flat area or after a few minutes it's gone. I have shuffled everything around in the center storage area, glove compartment, seat belt - nothing.
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Just started to get a vibration in the last couple days. When giving it fuel there is no problem. when i let off the fuel it begins to have a slight vibration as it slows. even does it if i pop it into neutral. took it for a ride last night when i noticed it. wife sayed been going on for a few days. after just a 6 mile ride i crawled under and tried to check the joint but when i stopped i was not on level ground so have tension on the shaft but did notice that the rear joint was warm after just that short of a drive. not hot just warm compared to the other 2. it is a 2004 F250 SD 6.0DSL 4X4
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So I've had my R for almost a year now. After a few months of ownership I thought I noticed the CEL flickering sometimes. Not terribly often, just once in a while. Enough to see this and wonder. It would always be off again by the time I looked down. Started to annoy and confuse me... then I figured if there was something really amiss it wouldn't flicker. It would just stay on. I did not realize that this was happening only at night. Just didn't notice that part.
The other evening I figured out what's been going on. It wasn't flickering at all. It was the silver button in the middle of the speedometer catching some passing light just the right way for a second. It's like half an inch from the CEL, after all.
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I just lowered my car with H&R springs and I did the flash to pass vagcom change. When the car is still and I turn on the high beams or flash it, everything is fine. Is when I start moving, and then put the highbeams or flash it when the xenons starts flickering mimicking a strobe light and is giving me an error message on the display, right or left beam dipped error.
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I moved over some interior LED's from my past cars (MKV R32 & MK6 GTI, same fitment for basically all of the bulbs) and they're flickering a lot.
From what I've seen, it's only the dome lights -- the vanity lights, trunk lights & footwell lights are all fine...
I think it's important to note that these LED's worked fine in my past cars. I've reached out to deAutoKey to see if they can replace them...
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Last night, I was driving around and noticed that my lights seemed to be flickering and dimming like CRAZY. It was really bad. Not just the headlights, but all the lights. The climatronic, radio, dash, map etc. The climatronic seemed to make things worse, but it did it even without it on.
Then I was in my buddys driveway in neutral and noticed that if i gave it some gas, the lights got brighter...it wasn't a small difference either...like when the lights dimmed, it was nearly HALF as bright! its like the car was losing juice big time...
I checked my battery cables this morning and they're tight. the car starts right up in the cold so I don't think its my battery. what other signs of alternator failure would i be noticing, or could it be something else?
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I know this is a common problem, it sounded like the coolant resevoir was the place to start so I replaced it today and I still have the low coolant light blinking, I don't know what else to do.
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I have an 03 Golf VR6 and only has 76k on it. Ive only had it a week but I have come to notice a couple peculiarities. So first off at night regardless of speed or RPMs, ALL OF MY LIGHTS have a slight flicker. Its not a huge difference, but its definitely noticeable. Engine runs fine. No battery light. Additionally, twice when I go to start it in the morning, after starting the alternator workshop light will kick on. after giving it a tiny bit of gas it goes away and doesn't come back. Everything else seems fine. no check engine lights, no trip meter resetting, and the flickering seems to be sporadically. Tonight I tested the battery and alternator and both tested good. My only thought is that it might be a loose ground. Tomorrow I plan on taking a look at the ground under the battery. I've tried searching the threads here, but Im having trouble finding any relevant info. Also, is the voltage regulator inside the alternator, a separate piece, or in the ecm?
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MKIV R
28xxx miles
So here's the deal. I first purchased the car about 2 months ago. Aside from preventative maint (plugs, coils, new fluids, oil, filters, etc.) no problems with the car whatsoever. However, I noticed at night with the lights on, the instrument cluster and every now and then the lights will "flicker". Not knowing when the original owner replaced the battery, if ever (it was an OEM battery so I wasn't positive), I figured maybe its a sign the battery was going.
So I replaced with an OEM VW battery a couple weeks ago (less than 1000 miles on it) and it appeared the problem was corrected. The instrument panel and even headlights, seemed brighter too and no flickering! Then last night, I noticed it was happening again. There is no problem with the car, except for the flickering, and I'm wondering if its not the battery, is it the alternator? What are some other problems I might expect to see if it was? Do I just get a voltmeter and test? Is there an electrical wiring issue somewhere?
Not sure if it matters but I did do a search and noticed some people have had problems after a rain storm. Im in NC and it rains almost every day or every other day, most of which I'm not driving the car but it sits outside. It did rain the other day when I noticed it happening (not while driving just prior to me driving). ALso, no CEL or Alternator Workshop.
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Just put a side post battery with top post adapters on. I drive to town the battery light was flickering with every little bump finally it turned off. Got to the house car shut off tried to turn it on and nothing no click nothing. The dash lit up half way the radio flickered on and off constantly and and the ebrake light flashed with a beep. I'm at wits end. Just bought a tire and battery and filled the tank and now this happens. 2000 jetta 2.0 GL.....
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I own a 2009 smart car with 256k miles on it (it's used primarily for work) and was having it serviced at a local shop here in Tulsa (not the dealership). I had to leave the car for some minor repairs and the owner of the shop gave me the keys to an R32 he was about to list for sale. Well, I fell in love with the car. I mulled over it for about a month but ultimately I broke down and bought it.
One question I'd like to pose. I notice the gauges are hard to read during the day, particularly the temp and fuel gauges. I'm thinking the gauges are supposed to be backlit during the day, but I can't seem to confirm that anywhere on the internet. Are the gauges supposed to be backlit during the day as they are at night?
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So I have been having issues with a cluster in a car I recently bought. Sometimes it works fine, sometimes no gauges or MFA, sometimes just no gauges. All of the dummy lights work, and the odometer has power, although it does not seem to record miles when the cluster is not working.
I checked for power, good. Looked in the Bentley for grounds, there are 3. Terminal 9&24 and a sender ground, terminal 7. 9&24 both show continuity, but I get zilch on the sender ground. Tried looking in the wiring diagrams and google but I cant figure out what a sender ground is or if it should have continuity?
Next step is to try another cluster, but I don't want to go through the trouble of switching it to a new cluster if the ground is bad.
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