Golf V R32 :: Temporary Loss Of Power And Fuel Smell Intermittently
Jul 25, 2016
I live in NM. It's been excessively hot here this summer, 95+ daily for the past 2 months.
Yesterday while I was driving I noticed a weird feel in the accelerator pedal. Almost like a mini-misfire. It was intermittent. Maybe did it 6 or so times in a 10 minute time span. My wife couldn't feel it in the passenger seat but I definitely felt it through the pedal. There was no MIL light during or after the incident.
We get home, she gets out on the passenger side and there was a strong fuel smell (tank, filler, and filter are on that side). By the time I got the car up in the air and the rear passenger tire off and fender liner out the smell had dissipated (probably evaporated due to the high temperature). There were no noticeable leaks. No dripping. Before I had it in the air I definitely smelled fuel underneath the car around the rear passenger side. I opened the hood and didn't smell or see anything in the engine bay.
I called VW customer care and they informed me this recall of the fuel tank ventilation valve was performed back in 2009 but the symptoms explained in the recall are exactly what I experienced. I verified the recall was done using my VIN number search on NHTSA's Safer Car site.
I can imagine that although the recall was done 7 years ago, it's still possible for this ventilation valve to fail. Especially because the recall states high ambient temps are a factor.
I have a legit VCDS but have not scanned it yet. Wife is off today so I took her car. I plan to go home, scan the car, and try to reproduce the issue before taking the fender liner out again. I have the means to do my own work but if I have to do something like drop the fuel tank I'll probably take it in.
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So over the past couple months when driving on the highway I would notice that sometimes my car would lose all power and slowly coast to a stop, but then the power comes back on and I'm off after a few seconds. It happened again today and I notice when I do hit the gas when it decides not to accelerate my boost gauge shows that there is vacuum building up in the engine. It just doesn't make sense to me. Would my car be getting thrown into a limp mode? Or is it something to do with fueling?
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I have a 2013 F150 with a 3.5 Ecoboost. I was pulling my 16' aluminum boat on a two lane road and pulled out to pass another truck. I stomped on the accelerator and the motor lost power. I limped back into my lane and noticed the engine light blinking. If I had to describe it, it seemed like the motor was running in some sort of "limp mode."
After about a minute or so, I let up on the accelerator and the light stopped blinking where the motor began to run normally. Although I only "stomped" on accelerator once since I had the issue, I haven't had the problem since. The truck has 44k on it..
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2001 V10 160000 miles.
1st happened Wednesday on way back. Temps all fine but had been in stop and go traffic earlier. Truck was on cruise and felt like fuel cut. I disengaged cruise. Throttle would keep it running and within 5-10 seconds it caught and ran fine.
Connected and reconnected all injectors, coil connections, tb and MAF connections. Nothing noted loose. No codes on OBD reader.
Drove around town last couple days no issues. Today towing three dirt-bikes about 45 miles. towards the end of the 45 miles. she stumbled as we crossed an intersection. Then caught and ran fine. Did it twice on way back home towards the end of the trip.
Had OBD reader in gauge mode with ignition advance, tp sensor, voltage and gallons per hour showing. None seemed to change when it stumbled.
Fuel pump is about 2 years old. Coils maybe 4 or 5 years old. Aftermarket. No codes on OBDII reader.
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My wife was driving to work today and she called me when she was almost to work and said that when she was at the red-light and said when she started from the red-light the car was fine and she hit a certain rpm and the rpm's dropped and there was a strong smell of fuel. The car was still running and would idle fine but was running almost like it was flooded or had a miss like a coil pack or spark plug. There was no check engine so I am not sure I haven't got to look at the car yet.
I forgot to mention a few months back she had a check engine for the intake manifold runner flap called the dealer and set up an appointment to take it in. Took it up and by the time we got there the check engine was off and car was running fine no issues. They said no sense in bringing it in now just set another appointment if it comes back on which it never has and still isn't on but I am wondering if this problem is related to that? I know for sure that the car is still covered under the enhanced warranty for the injectors and intake manifold.
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My dad's Camry (which I also drive), has been having a problem since a couple of months now. Whenever I floor the vehicle, you can feel the power kick in but after a couple seconds you can feel a slightly lack of power. Its not like the car doesn't accelerates, but it does feels like if you release the pedal a bit.
The car also has the following issues:
-Shifting problems: The car has been having shifting problems due to the automatic transmission fluid temperature sensor (don't know if this may cause the ecu to go in some sort of "emergency mode" and reduce the power a bit)
-Strong fuel smell after driving: After some driving, you can smell fuel mainly at the back of the car.
I'm thinking in about changing the sparkplugs as we have never done it to the car. Car has 80.000km (50.000 miles) Car is a Toyota Camry 2007 V6 3.5 2GR-FE
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For the past few weeks I have had a bizarre issue with my 2010 Sonata GLS. If you unlock all doors (press the FOB unlock button twice), get in, close the door and then turn the key and attempt to start the car, all power is lost to the the interior and with no lights, radio etc. The car is literally dead and won't start. If I open the drivers side door and then close it again, all power comes back and I can start the car. All radio stored stations are lost, the clock is reset and usually the trip odometer is reset too. Other times, if I just press the FOB unlock once to unlock just the drivers side door, the issue does not apparently seem to happen. What the issue may be?
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Changed my spark plugs and fuel filter but my fuel mileage seems to go down, used to get a average of almost 16mpg on a tank, now I'm down to 13.5mpg and also have the occasional stutter at different speeds/rpms. Is it time for new coils?
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When I turn the key all the way over, I hear only one click, and no engine sound. Playing with park or neutral positions do nothing. Battery and connections are good. I am getting a raw fuel smell out of the tail pipe after it finally starts. The check engine light intermittently comes on, by now it is mostly on.
My guesses are: fuel pump/relay problems, starter/connection problems.
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During recent trip to WITW 2011, I started smelling fuel vapor after stopping and getting out of the car. The smell was easily noticeable near right rear wheel which is obviously at the fuel filler door and neck.
Also, at one time the fuel level showed tank 3/4 full, but after filling it up I discovered that it was nearly empty with appx. 3 Gallons left. After filling the car back up to full, the fuel level went back up showing full, however the fuel vapor odor stayed the same on the way back home.
I have scanned the car and no codes.
Inspected under the car for fuel leaks and found none.
Removed access cover over fuel pump under rt rear seat and did not see any signs of leaks.
Removed rt quarter liner to visually inspect, but did not see anything unusual.
Which component could cause vapors to escape if faulty? R32 now has 31k on it.
I searched and read about possibly faulty fuel sending unit causing faulty fuel level reading, so I will be checking that next. However, no mention about fuel vapor problems.
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Had A/C go out while in Vegas almost 2 weeks ago. Dealer said compressor dead, replaced at my dealer back home, now having loss of power issue's, poor acceleration, 29mpg, & bad smell like transmission fluid or catalytic converter... Problems noticed after picked up car, then went away, now back.. No codes on the scantool, no lights etc.
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My 1992 240 wagon (injection) is intermittently stalling, and missing. The lambda light is on the dash. Last year it was doing something similar, but not as bad, and I took it to Volvo and they cleaned the throttle body and said it should be ok, and it was for a while, but now it's worse. Ignition parts are mostly new, I doubt it's that. When it stalls it nearly always starts straight away. When it's missing badly but not stalling, pressing the acc peddle does nothing, until it eventually catches on and revs properly.
I also find that when I have a full tank it's not so bad. When the tank was nearly empty it was particularly bad - it's winter and I was suspecting there was condensation in the tank.
Is there a 'backyard' way of getting the error codes? This could be a good start.
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I have owned this car for six months. The car now has 39K. The problem is getting worse.
Re: Lexus 2011 LS460 AWD
Subject: Hesitation / momentary loss of power when accelerating after turn.
When accelerating after a sharp turn with light to moderate acceleration, the car will have a momentary loss of power for about 1, 2, or even 3 seconds. This does not happen often, but perhaps once every two weeks and I cannot replicate the problem despite attempting to do so.
In all cases, I am talking about DRY pavement. It always happens after a sharp turn usually to the right. (Probably because most sharp turns are to the right actually it only happened once on a left turn that I will describe below.) Acceleration is light to moderate NOT hard acceleration.
In one case it caused a serious situation. I had just purchased gas and was entering a busy freeway. When accelerating, the engine had a total loss of power for a couple seconds as a large semi truck bore down on me with its air horns blaring.
I have a strong clue that may debug this problem. Once, when turning left, the car suffered a total loss of power. There was no traffic and I kept my foot lightly on the throttle. The car remained unresponsive. The engine did not stop, but it did not respond and remained this way for at least 5 seconds until I took my foot off the accelerator and then back on to the accelerator. During this period of suspended throttle, I noticed that on the right side of the dash an orange alert symbol was flashing I think it was a swerving car? I assume this indicated that the car was losing traction and the computer decided to cut power until traction was regained. But the pavement was dry, and the acceleration was normal. In no case did I ever sense that one of the wheels was slipping.
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As I got to work today, I took the off-ramp particularly enthusiastically. At the very end of the ramp, I got a huge red warning on my MFI saying 'Fuel Pressure Low, Engine off'. Error message was on for maybe 2 seconds. I checked my tach, no dip below 2k, throttle response was normal. Car has run fine after that.
My hypothesis of this happening: I was low on fuel. Indicated range was 40 miles. When I took that corner hard, gas must have sloshed around in the tank in a way that the fuel pump didnt 'find' any gas for a couple seconds - causing the error. As the fuel settled in the tank, got back to normal.
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I have a 04 R32 approaching 140,000 mi. The EPC came on on two separate occasions on the freeway going about 70-80 MPH, the vehicle lost power for a split second with the EPC light on. After that split second, the vehicle regain power and act normal again. I've been having minor problem with different thing and not sure if it's all related. I am high idling at 1,100 RPM in traffic and hard to start the vehicle from time to time (I noticed especially when the gas tank is approaching the red zone). Recently, the mechanic cleaned the throttle body real good and minimized the high idle problem.
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2002 Jetta 1.8t, auto tranny, 90K miles. Recently took it in and had all coilpacks replaced under VW's recall.
Sometimes when it's been sitting out in cool air for a long time (in Texas summers, this is nights-only), about 3 miles in it suddenly starts misfiring- BAD. Check Engine light comes on. Lasts about 30 sec, then goes away and doesn't come back for the rest of the drive. WTF?? I can't make it happen on queue.
I heard about the all-too-common grounding problem on the engine harness. I did find a significant resistance between the ring terminal on the head and the battery (-). I tied the 3 ground posts under the battery together with 12ga wire and crimped terminals, and ran another 12 ga wire up to the engine block ground right under the ring terminal that grounds the coils, which should have shorted past any weak spot on the harness. PROBLEM STILL OCCURS!
Scans showed:
17766 Cylinder 2 Ignition Circuit: Open Circuit
16682 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
16684 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
17658 Low Fuel light (only ~3 miles after lighting the Low Fuel warning, I don't think the fuel pump's running dry just yet here)
Seems to focus on Coil 2. But last time I did this I got these errors for Coil 3 and swapped it for a new replacement I had in the trunk in case one went out unexpected. Well now it just says Cylinder 2. Just did it again tonight after clearing codes and got these same Cylinder 2 errors again.
Actually I started to wonder... I've been running the tank close to the "low fuel" light to check my actual mpg usage (no display for it in my MK IV), but fill back up a few miles after it lights. I can think of a couple of spots on the late-night drive back that I see this, one's after a hill which might cause a fuel pump to run dry temporarily, but another's a light downhill then up a light offramp. I don't think the tank's been low every time this happened but I'm not sure. Well, a couple of times it's been mostly level in the parking lot anyhow and misfired a bit right off the bat when starting, so probably not.
Wouldn't there be some sort of "low fuel pressure" code if fuel starvation was actually the issue going on? Hmm, I went looking and I'm not sure there is one for a MkIV, there's errors for fuel trim but I don't think you get those in short-term. This is kinda scary how it just goes out while driving, and I can't do much to reproduce it or test out fixes.
So looking further, other people report what may be intermittent fuel pump issues when the tank goes low. But could that result in "Cylinder 2 Ignition Circuit: Open Circuit"? I mean the coils will still electrically read as firing. Of course if the system gets all glitch-y, the software may be making a mistake somewhere and report this wrongly.
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Here in the last week or so I have noticed what seems like loss of power in my 04 F250. When I get on the gas it doesn't seems to respond like it used to. When I turn off the truck i can smell diesel a little bit. could it just be a clogged injector, bad plugs or what?
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When smelling the oil in the filler cap, it smells a bit like unburnt fuel. Is that normal? It is not super strong but noticeable.
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I had idle travelling problem wich I solved changing AIT sensor. At the same time I cleaned MAF and TB with air sensor cleaner. Now my problem is cold start and driving 2nd and 3rd gear. Instantaneuous fuel consumption will go 20l to 50l driving 2nd and 3rd gear and if I stop values lowers like 20l...16l...10l... and finally on idle it stays in 0.8l/s. Average consumpion has increased 1l to 2l/100km.
These are the air mass readings when I drive 2nd and 3rd gear
rpm ja air mass g/s
1400 9,56
1240 9,22
1240 8,97
1240 8,64
1240 8,47
1200 8,86
1240 8,44
1240 8,31
1240 8,5
1240 8,36
1240 8,17
1240 7,67
1240 7,89
1240 7,89
1480 6,17
2600 7,03
3120 34,14
Full Throttle
2800 48,89
3320 94,11
4040 112,31
4680 135,56
5320 150,31
Turbo asked vs. actual value
1510 1290
1990 1970
1970 1980
1890 1870
1000 1180
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2000 Golf Gl AEG 2.0
My car smells of fuel in the exhaust and when checking the oil it is mixed. I have a cel and it says the o2 sensor is bad, not sure if a bad o2 would be causing all of this or not. The air filter is clean and I have done a few oil changes also. The oil is low also after so many miles but cannot seem to see any leaks.
Car also has over 200,000 miles. Is it necessary to change the gear oil in the vehicle?
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For about a week now, i've been smelling raw gas near the gas tank. Now i have a gas cap light on??
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