Golf VI R :: Cannot Start Due To ESP Error
Sep 13, 2015
I have experienced ESP error when trying to start the car. When I turn the key, the engine does not crank, instead, the ESP error shows up on MFD. I have to wait for several minutes until the EPC light is on. Then I can start the car with the ESP and EPC light off.
Here is the video: [URL] ....
From the forums, I have already had my battery replaced and still the problem persists. I take my car to local garage which cannot troubleshoot the cause. They just say it might be the relay or even the ECU. So, wonder if there is any clue?
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I was trying to install my MDI in a parking lot where I could get some space. I thought the radio fuse was inside the panel by my drivers side door. I pulled those fuses out one by one, the I realized it was under the hood. I'm not done swapping pins, but I need to drive the car and it won't start. I didn't put the radio back in. My MFI says ESP error when I turn the car on. I have a micro can with me, but it's having a hard time finding the interface.
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Last month, I started my gti up and a "Start System Faulty" code appeared. The car started normal and drove perfectly fine.
I immediately took it in to the dealership and they could not diagnose the problem or turn off the damn warning! They released my car and said to come back in a few weeks.
So, two days later, the warning disappeared and I thought it was just an electrical glitch.
Fast-forward to last week, the warning light came back on and took it in again. I suggested that they take a look at the ignition switch and sure enough, they fixed it for me over the weekend by installing a new ignition switch and the problem is gone.
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My car has ~102,000 miles, though I replaced the motor at 95,000.
Yesterday, I experienced these symptoms: My car just stalled in the parking lot going from R to D. Took me several tries to even get it to crank, double checking transmission in park, foot on brake, etc.
Then I had to crank on it a bunch of times to get it to light.
The BT-1 I have on me says I have a P0321 medium generic code. Googling that seems like it's related to a crank position sensor.
Runs OK for now, but I'd like to locate that sensor (is it G28?) to make sure the wires look OK. Happened again the next time I ran it, so taking it off the road for now as unreliable.
Is this the G28 crankshaft sensor location? I figure it's the plug hiding behind the angle bracket to the right of the oil filter in this photo.
I'm trying to figure out if this is within my abilities, or if I should farm it out. As I think about it, I'm guessing the sensor and related harness are not "new" with my motor, they transferred over from the old one.
Still looking for input if I have the right location for the sensor and any input on DIY.
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I have a 2005 Jetta 1.8t and the thing will not start! The battery is fine, and has been recharged 100%. The fuel pump is pumping. It cranks all day, but just won't start. The only error code i'm getting is a P0411 which I understand is a leak in the vacuum system somewhere.
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2002 Jetta 1.8L Turbo running fine. Then one day driving on the freeway at about 70, I try to pass someone and notice when I push the gas the engine lulls. I back off the gas and accelerate slower and I can get up to speed. Drive it all the way home and its fine a t low speeds. Turn the car off and try to restart it and it wont start. Turns over but wont start. No CEL or anything else, I check the codes and I have a P0171 (Lean fuel Bank 1). Where do I start? Also car is parked in an underground garage. No chance of a tow out of this place, it may soon be a Jetta tomb.
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Picked up a GTI Autobahn yesterday. Was pretty hyped that my sales rep was able to get me the last car in my configuration in all of California. It had to be driven 150 miles to my dealer though so there were more miles on the odometer than I would have liked but I got such a good deal that I let it be. Drove home and all was fine. Went out later that night and while driving home it all started.
Car was just cruising at regular freeway speeds (65 - 70) and suddenly all the gauges go out and error lights galore. Strange part is the car is still working otherwise at this point. We were able to exit and park it safely. Here's a video of exactly what we were seeing: [URL] ....
After parking and shutting off the car we try to start it back up. It turns over fine but a second later it kills itself - much like it would if you shut the car off manually. Warning lights galore again and eventually an error about the braking system shows on the display. Here's a video on this part: [URL] ....
Gas tank is full. Car was not being driven hard whatsoever. And even if it was it shouldn't do this right?
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I have a '95 bmw 325i. After leaving overnight, as the weather gets cooler (live in PA) on startup I get an EEP-2 error across my dash and none of my dash electronics work. My speedometer dial works only. It seems as the weather or the car warms up, upon restart all functions return. Needless to say it never works in winter but I drive it rarly then anyway. My local dealer wants $130 just to put on diagnostics machine then start charging or replacing my dash. Dash was replaced by that dealer 10K miles ago by previous owner. Dealer says (on phone message) he doesn't know what the error means. I used to write diagnostic code for jets and know somebody wrote that code for some error. That it works fine when warm and dry (kind of like me) makes me think a capacitor or relay is sticking (like every other contact has in this car). The internet crowd hasn't cracked it and most others have ended up spending $1000 or more to replace.
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So tonight I took apart my glove box and center console in hopes of relocating the TPMS button...Once I put everything back together the MFD says airbag error and when i sit in the passenger seat the airbag icon in the center console is flashing and a 2 and a X. Also the airbag icon is on the dash.
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Car is at the dealership now and they said that the sensor is being stretched out from being too low. I'm only dropped on a h&r sport cup kit, nothing drastic.
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So I bought my first VW as a used car. It's a 2011 GTI and already running into some problems. During the test drive at the dealership, the problem didn't occur. The car was sold as "as-is".
So on the way home from the dealership, the car threw an error about low oil pressure (I'm not sure what the wording was exactly at this time). I drove normally. I did not hit red-line or do any hard cornering on the way home. I got freaked out so I stopped, turned engine off and checked oil level. It's at the proper level.
I looked around the engine bay but nothing was obvious. I started the car up again and the code was gone so I made it all the way home. I drove around some more and now it's showing up about every 15-20 mins. Goes away and then comes back on later. The error now is "Low oil pressure. Turn engine off immediately".
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I have a 2012 Golf tdi. Got a cel after a 300 mile highway trip.
Got it scanned by dealer, came out to be p2413. Some EGR malfunction. According to service ticket, all vw did was reset my ECM. Does that sound accurate? Car has 16k miles.
Service rep mentioned that it could have something to do with my carbonio intake. True? Or BS?
So far, 100 miles later, no cel and car seems to be running fine.
Just curious if it actually could have something to do with the carbonio, or if he was just busting my balls.
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I had HID's installed in my fogs (before haters jump in, it doesn't look remotely bad, and they're aimed down, so no glare), and I'm getting a bulb out error. I have a VAG, but I'm not seeing any long coding to disable error checking for the fogs. I have the error cancelling add on, but we forgot to install. Just curious if there's a VAG trick to disable that error before I rip the fogs out again.
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I drove the car yesterday night for about 30 mins and parked it at home and after one hour went back to start the car but it wont start. All the lights working fine it gave me an error saying check VSC system and whenever i start the car it gives me sound zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz and ends with a fan sound but wont start ...
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I have an 04 Silverado Z71. I am getting error code U1000 on my Scanner. As well as a torque converter code and a front axel code. I can not start the truck. Its as if its in a safety lock out or something.
I talked to a service tech at the lock gmc dealer and he said the U1000 code was definitely the reason it wont start. Possible bad ECM somewhere in the system.
Where can i find a full wiring schematic for my truck ?
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I have problem in my VW Passat v6 2002. When insert car key to turn on start Engine, The screen shows an error message: "immobil activated" That means: Immobilizer is activated! And after that car is auto turn off then the Engine shut down in one second with flashing key light! As the fuel tank is empty..
But When I try to start again after an hour / two hours it's works!! This situation comes up if the car was parked from last night until the moment of start on in the afternoon!!! What is strange that this problem does not occur only at the time of day warm, Between 5 and 11 o'clock in the afternoon hot days!!! Because this problem is not never happen in the evening and night.
I go to the Workshop for dellership Car Agency. They re-programmable keys, But the problem is still continuing.
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I have a 98 1.6L Honda Civic DX with 200,000 miles and standard transmission. It was running great. Then I was going up a steep hill and it lost all power plus no rev from gas peddle. after tapping the gas it started powering again. CE light was flashing and staid on. The next day the light went off but the problem kept happening and sometimes the light would come on. It started stalling in 1st gear sometimes(not having power when I first hit gas)but then it would catch and pick up. then when shifting into 2nd or third gear it would loose power again but then catch. I got codes read p0302 and p1399. problem got worse and worse. now car won't start. it turns over and almost sounds like it will, but doesn't, ignite. I also noticed there's too much oil in tank from last oil change. My mechanic has no idea.
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I have been getting random bulb out errors, usually its the front side lights and today with out turning on the lights I had rear parking light...thing is I get out of the car to check and they are lit? Faulty bulbs? stock tails and side markers but do have a bi xenon retro in the headlights using the usp hid kit in the projectors.
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I just has a gen 2 haldex and wireless controller installed. 10 minutes of driving around getting on it in sport mode, I feel a thunk from the back and when slowing down a few odd shudders. Drove it cautiously a bit more and felt fine, then harder and harder. Felt better, no understeer, seemed ok.
Got home and scanned with Vagcom, got the errors below, cleared DTC and scanned again, same errors.
Address 22: AWD Labels: None
Part No: HW0 5Ha lde x
Component: Tuning
Coding: 0000001
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 5AB1BED4953067CEBA7-800F
2 Faults Found:
16347 - Control Module - EEPROM Error
014 - Defective
02248 - Valve for Controlling Clutch Operating Angle (N373)
014 - Defective
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I am getting a CEL and the error code is p2187 engine too lean at idle. I have been reading around to try and find the issue, some seem to say PCV could be the issue. I have also read a test would be try and remove the oil cap while car is idling. I did this test and the oil cap was difficult to remove and the idle got really rough once removed.
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My r is throwing a p0601 sum error. I clear, it comes right back. I know the previous owner has it chipped at a garage that wasn't linked to any brand. I was planning on putting an apr/giac tune over it but now I can't (no money). I know this might mean I need a new ecu. Right now I plan on going to vw on monday and having them reflash the ecu bringing it back to stock...if it returns then i guess i need a new ecu... This sound right?
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