Golf VI R :: Interior LEDs Blinking On And Off Every Few Seconds
Jul 7, 2012
Installed an ecs LED interior kit last night. Didn't go for a drive, just installed the LEDs. this morning i change some codes 1 at a time starting with rear tails byte 18. moved on to byte 4 bit 4 and made the change to allow for window up and down after the doors are opened. after making this change i noticed the interior LEDs blinking on and off every few seconds.
They didn't do that last night but I wasn't sitting in the car for a few minutes either. so i change what i did back to stock and the LEDs are still blinking. Not sure if I accidentally clicked on something I shouldn't have or what. And my computer crashed the other day and i lost my full scan and copy of coping. is this normal for LED interior lights? if not can someone hook me up with the long code for a NA car?
I did do the factory reset on the mfi computer and the rear head liner lights stopped blinking but the fronts still blink.
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I moved over some interior LED's from my past cars (MKV R32 & MK6 GTI, same fitment for basically all of the bulbs) and they're flickering a lot.
From what I've seen, it's only the dome lights -- the vanity lights, trunk lights & footwell lights are all fine...
I think it's important to note that these LED's worked fine in my past cars. I've reached out to deAutoKey to see if they can replace them...
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I'm looking for a source that sells high quality LEDs. I already have LEDs in my R but they flicker horribly. I've sent the LEDs back for replacement twice and each time they were replaced they started to flicker within a month. I don't use the lights very often but I can't deal with the flickering anymore.
I won't mention the company I purchased the LEDs from to avoid any favoritism or slander.
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I just picked up an '03 Golf and decided to put in the euro switch I had from my old Jetta. When I turn the headlights on (either parking or full) the instrument cluster blue back lighting and the red interior LEDs work only sometimes. When they work, they all work, but probably about 9 out of 10 times, they just won't come on at all, so I have to sit there turning the switch on and off repeatedly until they do come on. What could be causing this? It's definitely not a fuse since they do come on eventually, so my first thought was maybe a relay, but which one? What else could be going on?
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I want to start swapping out the stock lights for LEDs, beginning with the interior ones. I have read the de facto standard thread about LED swap here: [URL]...
For interior lights, the tacked thread mentions 39mm Festoon. However, when I go to Super Bright LEDs and put in my year, make and model (2002 EX), I get 578 LED Bulb - 8 LED Festoon - 44mm for replacement interior bulbs. Which is correct? 39mm or 44mm? Is there that big of a difference between the two? Will either size work?
I just want to make sure I order the right size to fit a 2002 EX. ETA: I want to start with ordering a few each of 5900K and 4300K just to see the difference in the truck and want to make sure I get the right ones. I don't want the Close Encounters look going on inside.
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I am looking for some feedback I'm looking to convert all my interior lights from regular bulbs to LED's I know there's a DIY thread which I read. But I want to know whats the brightest led that i can use while still fitting in my 09 camry se. (2 reading lights, 1 dome light, 2 reading rear lights, 2 Door courtesy lights, 1 trunk light, 2 license plate lights) I want those lights to blind me when I turn them on.
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Truck is a 2000 Excursion, V10 4x4 auto about 160k miles. Tried searching couldn't find anything relevant The problem is it wont start, not even a solenoid click, and the interior lights are blinking as if they were hooked to the turn signals (steady blinking and you can hear/feel the relay in the fusebox clicking). Turning on the key, hazard flashers or headlights makes the blinking go away, turning them back off starts it up again.
The blinking also effects the power windows (the windows go up about 1 inch at a time in time with the blinks). Hitting the panic button on the keyfob causes the horn to go off very faintly in time with the blinking. Disconnecting and reconnecting the battery did nothing. Checked all the fuses, they were all fine, the #1 and #2 position relays (the ones in the fusebox) are clicking in time with the blinking. The truck started doing this suddenly and with no warning (no dead batteries, jump starts or anything recently).
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My SO has a Hyundai Santa Fe - 03 2.4L with the 4 speed auto with 130500 miles.
While driving tonight, the interior lights started blinking. Which was kind of odd. Apparently when this happens, the tail lights (but not headlights) go out.
I did a quick bit of research on it and apparently there is a "bus" that goes bad and causes this. What is a "bus"? And how do I replace it? Is it something like a fuse that is getting corroded?
Also ... I think there may be something up with the a/c. When I turn on the A/C or defroster (any setting that activates the compressor), I smell a burning rubber smell in the dash. I'm not seeing the belt slip on the compressor and not hearing any slippage but there is a definite burning rubber smell. When the HVAC is on something that does not activate the AC Compressor (top vent) we do not get the smell.
Lastly, there are some transmission issues it seems. There is a shift flare between the 2-3 shift and the 3-OD shift sometimes is very firm/abrupt ... it appears to be locking the torque converter during a very hard shift.
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I have my Ex parked in the driveway, as the weather has been nice and I've been taking my motorcycle everywhere.
I went to get something out of it the other day... Opened the door and it sounds like I've left the hazards on... There's a clicking coming from the dashboard and the overhead lights, and running board lights blink. If I shut the door, it stops.
Do I need to call in a priest?
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I ordered an LED interior package from Deautokey and they also came with license plate LEDs. The interior looks great, the license plates looked great except for one thing, the right side was slightly yellower than the left. So I contacted Deautokey and they sent me two new ones:
These are identical to the original LEDs except in the old ones the squares are arranged in a diamond pattern but I don't think that matters.
Tonight, I was replacing the right side LED hoping that replacing one is all I had to do to match colors but in order to see better I kept the plate lights on. Well when I went to pull out the housing I forgot that they were still on and pulled it out anyways, there may have been a noise when that happened but I forgot.
I put the new one in, turned the plate lights back on and found that it was dim, I rotated it and same look. I tried the second replacement, equally dim, so I thought "okay, I'll just give up and put the old ones in." Did that and they are now these ones became dim!
What happened!? Did pulling it out while it was still on (only did it that first time BTW) mess something up? Did the new ones being in there mess something up? There is no warning light or message in my instrument cluster.
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I have an Avalon 2009 with the TMPS indicator blinking for 30 seconds when the car is started and won't go off.
I think this might indicate an issue with the sensor? How do I know which one and how to replace it?
Also, I cannot release the trunk from the button in the car (by my knee) or the trunk release button from the remote.
Does the TMPS light blinking and staying on has anything to do with that?
In the past, when I had a rear signal bulb went out, I couldn't scroll down my window either. Once I replaced it, I was able to.
I wonder if the trunk being locked from automatic release methods is the result of the TMPS light being on.
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I have 2006 - Toyota Camry LE and its AC light starts blinking in few seconds as soon as I start it. What could possibly be the cause of this issue?
I searched for Magnetic clutch relay for 2006 Camry, but could not find any in Auto parts dealer. Can it be Cabin filter?
Where can be the issue and where can I find the correct part?
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Any LED I can throw in the footwells / license plate area that won't throw a code? I'm using the ones from superbrightleds.
They worked everywhere except the license plate and the footwells. Everytime I get in my car I have to see (check license plate lights!) and a bulb out icon.
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So coming home from work the engine started misfiring and the Service engine light started blinking five times in staying on for five seconds and then blinking another five times in series. The car started writing very rough and stalled out every time I came to a stop which was not normal function for vehicle. Made it to the Toyota dealership. After paing the Service fee they told me it was possibly spark plugs, ignition coil pack, and an O2 sensor not functioning. I just changed the spark plugs and ignition packs three months ago. So I took the car home put new spark plugs in and a new ignition pack I ordered from Amazon and put it in cylinder for (which they told me at the Toyota dealership) and installed a new O2 sensor myself. Disconnected the battery to clear any trouble codes and restarted the engine. The problem still exists. The trouble code they gave me at the dealership was.p0304, p0138, p0110. The car is still miss firing and Service light keeps blinking.
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I just bought a 98 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4. Of course it didn't do this when we test drove it, but as soon as we put the money down the problem started. When you start the truck, the interior lights start blinking. I thought it was a door ajar warning, but after testing the doors, it doesn't stop blinking.
Sometimes it will stop when you put it in gear, sometimes it starts again. some times it stops for a few seconds and then starts again. So far it has always stopped blinking after we have driven for a little while. It seems like it will sometimes stop when I fiddle with the 4 wheel drive shifter.
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I ordered and replaced all the LEDs in the car and the license plate LEDs as well. Now I got that damn orange bulb on my dash. Anyway to clear it?
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DRLs shutting off on them? I notice it's when I hit a bump or hit the brakes hard.
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My 2008 R32 interior lights do not come on when I open the drivers side door, works OK from passenger door. I can not find the door switch. I've searched all around the door and the door frame. No luck. Also the doors will not lock, and using the key to roll up or down the windows or sunroof don't work.
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2016 Autobahn about 5 weeks old - A couple of weeks ago I noticed a DEEP pool of water in the rear passenger floorboard.
I thought a kid spilled a bottle of water or something, but now two weeks later, it's still there.
It is just water, there's been zero rain here in CA, and no recent car washing.
I believe it is from the wife's trip to work and back when she runs the AC the entire way.
I just went out and ran the ac for 20 minutes, and there is zero water dripping from under the vehicle.
1) where is the condensation drain line? I hear it's along the firewall in the engine compartment.
2) What else could cause the condensation line to drain to the interior?
3) What about the carpet? Any chance at the dealer if we push for replacement?
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I have a few bad LEDs at the bottom of each tail light. Have others had this problem? How many have to die before VW will replace them under warranty {2008 with 20K miles}
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Quick question, on my 2015 GTI, if I turn just the interior fan on (no A/C) when idling, it increases the engine RPM by 100 RPM.
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