My Grand Am has a bad oil leak (timing chain gasket) recently overheating and now makes a knocking noise while accelerating, especially up hills - which stinks as I live in Pennsylvania! I am pulling it apart - camshaft covers (both - its a dohc) and timing chain cover. How do I determine if its a main bearing or bent lifter rod or bad rockers?
View 7 Replies2000 Pontiac Grand AM SE 2.4L DOHC 129,000 estimated miles. After arriving home from the highway, I took notice of a noise coming the engine. Popped the hood just to hear the knocking noise. I had a mechanic from a dealership listen to it. His said it was a lifter or two. Doubtful of what he said, I got a second opinion and this mechanic said it was a rod. So, my question is this, can the rods be replaced without removing the engine?
View 3 RepliesI recently changed my oil, transmission fluid, and both coolant systems. I have a 2008 Prius, and I can hear this noise coming from the engine when I accelerate between 50-70 MPH or have the cruise control on.
I had low coolant in the ICE system earlier (didn't know there were two separate systems) and I had the red triangle light up for a moment and "Problem" appear on the LCD screen followed by an orange thermometer. I pulled over and let it cool down, and babied it home and added coolant.
My wife just handed me her 2001 BMW X5(165,000 miles...new engine at 97,000) because they offered only $2000 on a trade-in. It still looks great - better than my Tundra with numerous whiskey blisters delivered by misbehaving cows. The Beemer tires are in good shape BUT the car has developed a loud knocking noise in rear end when you accelerate from a full stop (scares the heck out of you because it sounds like the backend is going to fall off). If you accelerate slowly it doesn't always knock, but other drivers try to run over you. Just had the air levelers repaired. My local mechanic thinks it is the drive shaft but not sure and won't touch it until something breaks or falls off. My question is - if it is the drive shaft and it falls off while driving - is this going to be a dangerous problem? Our mechanic doesn't seem too concerned and just doesn't want to tear it apart to check the noise. If possible (financially) I would like to repair it but will have to drive it to a bigger town to have it done. Or should we just throw in the towel and donate it to NPR?
View 2 RepliesA couple weeks ago I started noticing a knocking noise coming from my front passenger wheel. It only happens in drive, while accelerating around corners. I checked the CV joints, all are fine, no cracked boots, moved the boots around and can hear the grease in there and no sign of a leak. The strut boot has broken however. Im thinking bad strut bearings? Since the boot is pretty much non existent it might be corrosion build up?
View 16 RepliesI've been fixing things here and there (hub bearing, struts, etc.). My latest repair is the water pump, it was howling for a few seconds during cold starts; I just replaced it today, hopefully this unit lasts for a long time.
A few days ago, I noticed this hissing noise after I turn the engine off at normal temp. Since there was a leak from the radiator drain, I thought that was it and didn't care about it. I just installed a new o-ring on the drain cock along with the new water pump. Test drove the car and it turns out the noise is still there, is it normal or not, I didn't put much attention before.
The noise can be heard from underneath and above the engine, it kinda seems to be coming from the intake BUT I find it weird since I installed a new upper intake manifold in november of 2013. It's a Dorman unit and I followed all the instructions from the kit and the workshop manual. Lower intake manifold gaskets were replaced back in november 2009 after the engine was rebuilt because of a cracked head (not sure what type did the mechanic use, back then I didn't know much about repairs). It's hard to believe that these gaskets have failed already. I also replaced the coolant elbow almost two years ago after the belt tensioner assembly failed.
I am getting a thumping noise from front tires,can't really tell which side? as i turn to left it seems to stops until i straighten wheels.
View 2 RepliesI have a 99' GTP with 199,000 miles. I drive the very bumpy roads of Chicago. Recently when I go over any small bump, large bump, or when I am going fast and break I get a knocking sound mostly out of the right rear wheel, a quieter knocking out of the left rear wheel. It just sounds like a dry knocking when you go over any little bump or inperfection in the road. I am assuming that it is the struts. I don't know if i can just replace the shock part for $50 something or if my problem needs to be solved by replacing the whole strut assembly which includes preassembled strut, coil spring, strut mount and strut bearing?
View 11 RepliesI have a '97 Saab 900 SE turbo. When it made a new rhythmic knocking noise under the hood I brought it to a few mechanics and here's what they found: the alternator's bearings are loose (that was likely the source of the noise) and it also needs the tensioner assembly (it's vibrating visibly) and idler pulley replaced. The battery was also bad, with a 17.6 meter reading (handheld meter). The battery was still under full warranty and my mechanic said it probably had one, maybe two dead cells. Never had a problem starting or running.
My question is this: how likely is it that the bad battery caused the alternator/tensioner/idler problems?
Just changed the struts, control arms (both used) and sway bar links (new) in front and when braking or accelerating there is a clunk on the right side. Checked the bolt on the control arm and its tight.
View 1 Replies2001 F-150 4.2L automatic, 189k mikes. Gas pedal would do weird knocking/vibrating. It would do it at idle & under acceleration. Gas pedal would knock & sometimes slightly move or kick back at you. Felt like someone was lightly hitting it with a small hammer. Well there is not much to the gas pedal assembly; pedal, throttle cable & mounting bolts/plate. Looking under hood, a bracket from drivers side of motor was pushing back against firewall, which was pushing into gas pedal mounting bolts. I grabbed the bracket & it came off motor. Nothing else attached to bracket. Looks like it rusted off and was pinned between motor & firewall. Well, this fixed the gas pedal problems. But now i wonder what the bracket is & whats it suppose to hold??
View 3 RepliesI have had a noise in the front of the engine of my 2002 f150 4.6 for about 2 weeks. On my way home my oil light came on made a knocking noise and shut off. The engine would not start back starter would engage but not turn motor it was seized. i called a tow truck and had it towed home. The next day just out of curiosity I tried to start it. It fired up ran and built oil pressure. If the oil pump froze will that make it . Can the oil pump make the engine act seized up?
View 3 RepliesI have 02 GT 3.8L with 130k on it. When I accelerate it shakes extremely bad and when I let off the gas it stops. Is that a broken or worn CV joint or something else. And if it is should I replace both sides?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 F150 4x4 4.6L Auto trans. 96,000 miles... I purchased it in Jan with 93,000. About a month ago it started making and occasional knocking noise coming from the engine, this noise was heard at idle in park and in drive. when I revved the motor it would go away but as the idle settle back down you could hear it again. the noise would go away as I was driving and come back with no rhyme or reason, I put a stethoscope on the engine and it seemed loudest under the oil pan. The oil gauge is up between 5/8 to 3/4. Fast forward to now, When I start it I hear a scraping almost grinding noise that resonated thru the cab it has the same intermittent characteristics. I think I am going to remove the serp belt, remove the trans inspection cover next and see what happens. Oh I did put a scan too on it, no codes but did notice 1 long term 02 sensor trim was staying around -.618 if I remember.
View 11 RepliesNoticed the other day when I was driving on the highway my truck started humming when I was accelerating past 30. From a dead stop to 30 its fine, but after it starts humming. Its only when I have my foot on the pedal. When I let off, it stops. The sound is coming from the rear/under.
View 3 RepliesThe last couple days my truck (1997 f150 4.6l) has been having starting issues. At first it would just turn over and not start then the battery would die. So i bought a new battery and yesterday now its starts sometimes but when trying to start it while its ttuning over it stops then starts turning and starts up. Then i drive wherever I am going when i get back in to start there's nothing.
Its not turning over at all but when i turn the key there is a loud single knocking noise coming from behind the dash near the passenger floor vent. Actually there ate two noise from the same area, one when i initially trun the key and another when i release the key. But after just sitting there doing this it will finally turn over and start. What this is, there are no codes being thrown besides my dreaded P0401 which i cant seem to get rid of either. Ive changed every part that has to do with the egr system and cleaned the throttle body replaced vacuum lines and still the code.
This new discussion is for owners of 2006 Grand Vitara 4x4 SUV with the automatic transmission. Experiencing a vibration while accelerating between 45-60 MPH. This is an on-going problem for many of us and we need to make sure that Suzuki of America hears us loud and clear, and develops a solution.
View 30 RepliesJust filled the darn thing 2 weeks ago and drove about 10 miles since. Got in this morning and the gauge is down to almost half. I've suspected I was losing gas somewhere but this confirms. Definitely wasn't stolen and the car was definitely not driven. No leaks either.
View 5 RepliesI have a 95 grand am that has a leak on the driver side. Every time I get in the car there seems to be water under my floor mat. I have already replaced the heater core on the vehicle because it did go bad. But this liquid is just water. It doesn't have any odor other then a smell of wet dog kinda.. I have perfect pressure on all my gauges and all my fluids under the hood are at the right level. What is going on with my car?
All i can think of is that i did drill a little 1/2in hole to run my power wire for my subs. other than that everything else is stock. Also there is no water on the passenger side, just the drivers side. I noticed when it rains a lot more water seems to be evident then before the rain.
My 2005 Grand Caravan has a leak in the A/C under the dash. The mechanics say they will need to tear out the dash to get to it and it will cost $1000. As this car needs a couple of more things and I just repaired the battery and alternator, I don't want to put this money into it. Will anything seize up if I just let it go? It's August and summer will be over soon. Can I just deal with it or will this cause further problems?
View 1 RepliesI have a oil leak that I can't seem to find the source of. The head gasket corner (driver side firewall corner) has oil on it. (3.8 SC). Or maybe the intake valley gaskets are leaking but it doesn't appear so (and the intake was done within the last 20k miles). The back side of the oil pan (toward rear of car) is wet and the oil seems to be dripping off the transmission pan somehow.
Another thing is the knock sensor between the block and transmission seems wet, not sure if the oil is coming from above that or not, would the knock sensor leak oil or coolant? (or nothing)...