Honda - Accord :: 1994 LX - Muffler Rusted Out Inside / Minor Oil Leaks At Two Different Engine Gaskets


Aug 8, 2011

I have a great running 1994 Accord LX with 140k miles, but plan to trade it in within the next 12 months. It has the following two flaws that I'm trying to decide whether or not to repair:

(1) Muffler is rusted out inside (but sound doesn't bother me)
(2) Very minor oil leaks at two different engine gaskets

Should I invest in either of these repairs or just ride it out?

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I took my car in to the shop to get an oil change and fix a scraping noise from a rear brake (just a bent backing plate), and when I went to pick it up the guy basically advised me to avoid putting any more money into the car as it has severe corrosion on the engine cradle. He went on to tell me to start looking for a new car. Fairly inevitable given its long life (nearly 170k miles) and exposure to harsh winters. Basically most of the front suspension is also in pretty bad condition.Thing is, I'm a grad student who drives this thing about once a week for <5 miles on average, and I don't really want to deal with the hassle of replacing my car at the moment. I'd like to get some more input into how long I can keep safely driving it under these conditions.

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Sounds like I may have a problem that is not all that uncommon i have a 94 honda accord with 100k miles, runs great, handles great

Just last week I noticed a resonant humming / growling sound coming from the engine - it's very "vocal"it only occurs around 2000 rpm, and is more pronounced when decelerating there's no apparent loss of power or fuel efficiency the sound occurs with or without the transmission engaged and seems to be worse after the car has heated up a bit

Cat converter? Intake manifold?

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Since the car was parked during the storm, I don't see how the water could have gotten in there except via one of the light assemblies or by getting past the gasket. In other words, it wasn't blown up into the trunk from the roadway. The puzzler is that the carpet in the car was dry when I found the water. I googled this for hours and I don't find others with 2015 trunk leak complaints. All the complaints are for earlier model Accords.

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Honda Accord 1994 EX

Problem: over past two weeks (around 200 miles) car's acceleration became less and less effective. Need to rev car to higher and higher rpms to accelerate and shift into higher gears. Now it's hard to get up a hill, in 2nd gear at 5000 rpm.

I don't have a compression tester.

-Car starts fine. No pings.
-Exhaust blows fine and no smoke.
-Checked for vacuum hose leaks, none at all.
-Spark plugs look fine, there's no oil in spark plug wells.
-No check engine lights. '
-Oil on oil stick normal color.

But ...

-Recently coolant ran low. But engine temperature never shot up.
-Recently (over 2 weeks) oil went from full to near empty. Oil light didn't go on.Lights on my dash work (abs, brake, etc.)

Given loss of coolant and oil, I though it would be blown gasket. But spark plugs and wells look clean, and there's nothing whitish in oil. Maybe coolant and oil loss are due to running car harder to accelerate.

-If cat was clogged, would exhaust blow well? If I drill hole in front of cat, will it run normal? (don't worry, I'll get it changed, or fix it.)
-If fuel pump the problem, wouldn't I hear it on start up?
-If battery and/or battery cable bad, wouldn't car have trouble starting and revving up?

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My 1994 Silverado 1500 has been running rough, chugging, smelling gassy and sometimes quitting while idling. We replaced the plugs and wires. This didn't actually work, but while testing it, it started to overheat. We added water and the water squirts out everywhere from the bottom of the engine. So there are 2 problems...

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Alright, car's overheating, but generally not at under ~55mph or so. When I hit the highway and accelerate, the thermostat climbs and hovers 3/4s of the way to red. But only sometimes. Sometimes, often when I'm going down a hill, it will swings down to normal. Once it's gotten hot, if I take it off the highway and am idling or driving in the 15-40mph range, the temp gauge will spike. But only sometimes. Sometimes I'll hear the fans kick in while it's idling/overheating. The temperature will go back to normal, and then rise again and stay there or spike (seemingly randomly). It's never reached all the way to the red, but it toes the line. And I take the darn thing into the shop and it refuses to overheat.

I've taken the radiator reservoir out and there seems to be green fluid (antifreeze/coolant?) in the water (have flushed it repeatedly)...and over the course of several weeks, the water level itself will go down. Both fans and the thermostat have been replaced in the last 6 months. Additionally, the timing belt and serpentine belt have been replaced within 5 months, as have affected pistons.((S/N--RPMs are really....low? ~2500 @ 75mph? but don't seem to correlate w/temperature. would they effect it?)

I took it into my shop and they said "we ran all the tests and couldn't find anything wrong." Cool? I'm at a loss..

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I bought my 1994 Accord LX new and am happy with it and the ~240K miles it has. Recently a very odd problem has emerged that is annoying...

Problem: The power to the radio cuts off now and then but only for a second. This of course always happens when I'm intensely listening to something like Car Talk. I first noticed it about 3 months ago while driving on the highway... whenever I tapped my brake peddle the radio would cut out. NOW the problem happens whenever it wants to...sometimes I go days without any problem, other times I can get a string of 5-10 failures right in a row and then it's "ok".

Here's the REALLY WEIRD thing... about 1:10 times when this happens BOTH the tachometer AND the speedometer cut out too! They drop to ZERO and then when the radio comes back on they pop back up to their proper readings... note nothing happens to the fuel or engine oil pressure gauges. The dashboard failures are what now have me worried.

What Have I done to address it? Nothing yet, not sure what to do... I cannot intentionally recreate the problem. Last time I took it to the mechanic for something else they looked at this but they couldn't recreate it. I'm afraid if I just ask someone to fix this it'll either cause a lot of hours to be racked up with no result or a lot of guesswork replacements.

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