Honda - Accord :: 2000 - Ignition Distributor Leaking Externally
Nov 10, 2013
Recently I went to a mechanic for an oil change and they told me that my "distributor was leaking externally" and I need to get it replace or the oil will corrode the sensor and heating bypass hose. They showed me the distributor and I did see dried oil/grease on the silver metal part of the the distributor. They told me it will cost $270, against my better judgment I agreed to it. When everything was done I asked for the old part back and they said no but after several minutes arguing I got my part back. I am very suspicious and I don't think that I actually need to get the ignition distributor replaced. Also they got the distributor from a Chinese company called World Power System. I would like to know if I got scam.
2000 Honda Accord LX 2.3L 90K miles...
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I have a 1991 Honda Accord with 250, 000 miles on the odometer.
It has happened a couple times in the past 2 months when the engine fan turns itself on after the ignition has been turned off. The latest incident was a couple days ago when the fan repeatedly turned itself on and off. I discovered by turning on the ignition to the first click would stop this. Engine temperature gauge shows engine operating temperature to be well within normal limits.
Question: why is this happening?
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My 2008 Honda Accord grinds when I start it up, not every time, but usually when it's been sitting for hours. I used to think that I needed an oil change, because after I got one, the grinding went away. When it came back "Time for an oil change!" But I just got an oil change last week, and the grinding started again the next day. My dealership said it was no big deal and I could drive the car that way, it wouldn't hurt the car. What this might be and what I should do about it?
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I drive a 97 Honda Accord and just recently started experiencing an issue where while driving, my ignition suddenly shuts off. Sometimes when this happens I'm able to turn the key and get the ignition started right back up while coasting, but usually forces me to coast to the side of the road instead to throw it in park and restart ignition (instantly, no sputtering). This problem seems to occur most frequently while driving at low speeds or stopped at a light or sign. Despite the ignition cutting, my headlights and radio, etc remain on leading me to believe that the battery is fine. I've taken it in to get it diagnosed at two different mechanics so far but they've been unable to replicate the situation and couldn't do anything. The problem is occurring more and more frequently (as much as 4 times for a 10 minute drive last night) and I'm going crazy trying to figure this out. Anything similar seen before? (spark plugs, alternator, blocked air filter, etc?).
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I have a 1996 honda accord. I recently took it into a shop because it wouldn't start and was leaking oil. They replaced the battery cable and told me I needed an axle. I then have an oil leak, and my car will still not start. I take it back, ok, they said I need an oil pan. I get the oil pan and had to take the car back 2 more times because it was still leaking oil.
The one time they put on a gasket and the next an oil drain plug. Two days later I get home and my oil light is on. There is oil all over my driveway and it is leaking everywhere. Bigger than any previous leak. They pay to have my car towed to the shop and call me the next day to say the seal fell out and this is a common problem with the 96 accords. I need a timing belt kit. They told me there was no way to notice this oil leaking from this component. Is this an accurate depiction, or am I getting the run around?
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I have a 2007 Honda Accord v6 3.0 L Coupe and I have a problem with the start up. I just bought a brand new battery for my car so I know it's not the battery. Anyway, when I turn the key in the ignition (normally) I cannot get the car to turn on, it makes an electrical screeching sound. However, when I quickly turn the key, the car turns on. I want the car to turn on normally but do not know the specific problem. I replaced the starter with a family member not too long ago, could it be that the starter was not installed correctly?
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I have a 1989 Honda Accord DX with less than 120k miles. I have two problems.
1) the low pressure hose for the power steering has worn out and is leaking by the fittings (badly) and I can't find the parts to fix it. The high pressure hose was also leaking but we found and replaced that part, and
2) I accidentally topped off the power steering reservoir with brake fluid (this was after I already knew the leaks existed).
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I own a Honda 2009 Accord EXL with about 25,000 miles. Over the last 5 years a problem has occurred randomly (at least 8 times) and up to last week I was able to over come it. The problem is: when attempting to start the car you find that the steering wheel, shift lever, and ignition key lock are all "locked" up. Nothing can be moved or turned. Thus you can not start or move the car. Up until last week I would jiggle the steering wheel or the shift lever and it would unlock. I took it to the Honda dealer after the first few times and they all but laughed at me . Then last week nothing I did could to get the devices unlocked.
I called the local dealer and he advised having it towed in, which I did. When the tow truck driver arrived he showed me the hidden compartment next to the shift lever and inserted the key. This did unlock the steering wheel sufficiently that we could get the car aligned with the tow truck. And I was able to insert the key and start the engine. But when I attempted to shift the car it acted as if it remained in neutral. In other words the engine roared but no motion no matter which gear I selected. We managed to get the car onto the tow truck and delivered to the dealer. Of course when the dealer looked at it, all was well no problem.
The dealer kept the car and "went over everything" and "found nothing wrong". They said they "have never experienced" this problem before and their home office confirmed that. The Dealer's solution: If you park the car, shift to Park, and turn it off and then turn the steering wheel counterclockwise hard, a click is heard and the whole car is locked up. The dealer showed me that by pushing hard on the brake, forcibly turning the wheel, and at the same time playing with the ignition key with a little luck it all unlocks. (Notice he did not indicate using the hidden compartment trick.)
I find it strange that the dealer has "never ever experienced this issue", yet has a "work around"!! Though I must admit it does work when you purposely "lock" the steering wheel (the random act has not occurred again so far). My question : is there some fault to the electronic (or other) sub systems which should be fixed? I just hate to have my wife out alone and run into the situation again.
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My 3.0 L Honda Accord won't start the way it should. I've included a video of the situation. I need to figure out what I need to replace. [URL] ....
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My 89 Mazda B2600i conked out on me suddenly about 10 days ago. My local mechanic replaced the distributor, cap, and rotor and the ignition coil and now it's running again. But starting it up at the mechanic's, I noticed a new faint sound like a clock ticking rapidly. From under the hood it sounds more like an exposed spark plug firing, but fainter.
After driving around to make sure I wasn't imagining it, I had the mechanic take a quick listen and look. He couldn't say for sure what it was, but said it was probably nothing to worry about.Taking a look under the hood at night, I saw lights running along the spark plug wires (continuous) and flashes of light where the spark plugs insert (frequent).
If one terminal of a volt meter is placed on the outside of the wire running from the ignition coil to the distributor and the other held in the air, the voltage rapidly builds up to 4 volts (a few seconds) and then immediately drops back to zero. This happens in roughly the same time frame as the flashes of light where the spark plugs insert, but I can't tell if it's the exact same frequency. What's going on?
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I took my car in for another oil change this month, now my car mileage is 46,000, and the technician informed me that the power steering fluid is linking and it is now necessary to replace the "rack" and "boots." The repair will cost about $1000. Though my car is no longer under warranty, the dealership agreed to pay for 50% of the repair. I have asked that the dealership pay for 100% of the repair, but I was told that they would not do that.
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I have a 1991 Accord LX wagon that is leaking coolant. I figured it out b/c there is a green fluid pooled on the floor behind the passenger's seat. Why would coolant be leaking there? I bought this car in February and have been nickeled and dimed ever since. I want to sell it and get something else but I want to get the coolant problem fixed first and need to know if this is going to be expensive.
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They replaced the gasket and seals. I also had them to replace my timing belt and water pump since it was last changed at 113K miles. I continued to find fresh oil spots on my garage floor. I returned to the auto repair shop. They inspected my car and said I need to replace the VTEC gasket. I had them to replace the VTEC gasket. A few days later, I noticed some more oil drops on my garage floor. I returned to the auto repair shop and told them to keep it until they discover where the leak is coming from. My car is currently at the auto repair shop two days later. Do you think this oil leak problem mean that the end of my car is near? Is it worth repairing?
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I have a 2003 Santa Fe, V4, 2.4L.
So the other day, my CEL and I got it scanned: p0320, or "Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction."
It was accompanied with two symptoms:
1. The car will sometimes sputter on startup, and the tachometer will be zeroed out. I have to turn the car off and turn it back on, and it will start normally, albeit with a bit of a misfire on idle.
2. The car will sometimes die while at a stop. Just like the first symptom, if I turn the car off and turn it back on, it will work normally.
I looked on here, and it seemed like everyone solved a p0320 by replacing the Ignition Failure Sensor. So that's exactly what I did. But nothing changed; I still have the symptoms, and the CEL came back on and is still reading p0320.
What should be my next step? Could it be faulty wires that give power to the Ignition Failure Sensor?
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My 2000 honda accord v6 wont start (150,000 miles). It feels like its cranking over just wont go anywhere from there. So it doesn't seem like an starter issue or battery issue. It has done this to me in the past a couple of times but after letting it sit there for a bit it started back up. The weather hasn't been an issue on the times it wanted to start or not start. I know a oil change is due and
The EGR valve needs to be cleaned/replaced but could those things make my car from not starting? When i put the key in the car and turn it to the II, the Maintenance required light comes on and the light for the key just keeps blinking.
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My car just started knocking terribly--making a really loud noise at all speed and all gears. (Not when idling, though.) It is a 2000 Honda Accord. Both the oil and the oil filter were changed about 2000 miles ago, so the oil should be good. What might be causing this?
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