Honda - Accord :: 2003 - Radio Stays On With Keys Out
Mar 21, 2013
My 2003 Honda Accord radio will turn on while the car keys are not in the car. It's been happening for months now. If I leave the radio powered on while the car is off it will drain the battery by the time I try to start it again in the morning. If I turn the radio off before the car keys are out I can still see the radio receiving power (the clock on the display lights up).
I had a different issue about a year ago where if the radio was on it would make really loud popping noise then go silent. I could usually get it back by turning it of an on several times. I it to a car audio shop who soldered the connections in the radio and I haven't had the problem since. After this I also had an iPod/iPhone adapter installed. It seems as though the issue with the radio staying on may have started somewhere around that time.
What could be causing this? The guy at the car audio shop says that he thinks the radio is just bad and that Honda had a huge problem with radios in Accords from that year. However I don't want to spend money to put a new radio in only to have the same issue after.
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I have a 2003 Honda Accord LX with 96K miles on it. As the weather has gotten colder, my car radio is turning itself on. I walked out last week to a frigid 19 degrees here in KY to the blaring sound of my radio on in the car. There was no one in the car and no key in the ignition, rather the key was in my hand. This has continued to be a problem and occurs sporadically during the day. I have tried turning the radio on/off, keeping the volume down, but regardless, even the clock face panel turns itself on.
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The radio in my 2003 Honda Accord is blank and the mileage part of my warranty is out. The radio works, but the backlight on the lcd screen is out, what can I do to fix it? I don't know what time it is, what station is on.
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So I have a 1998 Honda Accord EX V6. When I turn off the car all the lights in the Dash are on without the key and sometimes the car stays on without the key. The only way I can turn off the car is by pressing the brakes. Don't know what exactly it can be. Also the doors and the battery light in the dash will flash when rolling the windows up or down.
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The check engine light stays on. The hood of my car was not securely locked when I purchased it, I'm sure it's due to an accident because it's damaged. Can the hood be a reason the check engine light stays on..it does not blink.
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I have an 09 Accord (LX), one day the airbag light (SRS indicator) on the dash would stay on when driving, and the Seatbelt Reminder Indicator would detect the driver's seatbelt isn't engaged, even when it is.
A day later, the seatbelt indicator resumed normal operation, but the SRS light still remained on. I took it to two separate dealers and neither of them could connect to the SRS Control Unit to pull error codes from the onboard computer. They say I need to replace the SRS Control Unit to even begin troubleshooting this problem.
Can I replace my own SRS unit without accidentally triggering my airbags? Where do I order it? How do I make sure it is the correct part? Is it easy? Or I have a separate problem?
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I bought my 1994 Accord LX new and am happy with it and the ~240K miles it has. Recently a very odd problem has emerged that is annoying...
Problem: The power to the radio cuts off now and then but only for a second. This of course always happens when I'm intensely listening to something like Car Talk. I first noticed it about 3 months ago while driving on the highway... whenever I tapped my brake peddle the radio would cut out. NOW the problem happens whenever it wants to...sometimes I go days without any problem, other times I can get a string of 5-10 failures right in a row and then it's "ok".
Here's the REALLY WEIRD thing... about 1:10 times when this happens BOTH the tachometer AND the speedometer cut out too! They drop to ZERO and then when the radio comes back on they pop back up to their proper readings... note nothing happens to the fuel or engine oil pressure gauges. The dashboard failures are what now have me worried.
What Have I done to address it? Nothing yet, not sure what to do... I cannot intentionally recreate the problem. Last time I took it to the mechanic for something else they looked at this but they couldn't recreate it. I'm afraid if I just ask someone to fix this it'll either cause a lot of hours to be racked up with no result or a lot of guesswork replacements.
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Honda accord( 2005), Engine lights off and on, Radio goes off a few seconds and then reboots by itself , ABS lights off and on, car still runs, power seems to be down slightly when engine lights comes on , stalled twice, but restarted right away. Relay switch replaced, PCM replaced( Diagnosis suggested) , problem continues.What should I check next ?
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This seems to happen a lot when it gets really cold out. Started happening a few weeks ago. Sometimes if I notice the light starts to flicker on, at a stoplight I'll open the door, push down the rubber button that triggers the light, and shut the door. It'll usually stay off for a little bit.
I noticed that there's a little dent on the door where it presses against the button, and I'm wondering if that's a possible reason why this issue is happening.
I have a 1997 Honda Accord LX....
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I have a 2004 Accord. The radio died a slow death (going on and off at will.) It's finally dead, now. The other strange thing, is the the dome light comes on when I make a left turn. The mechanic I took it too couldn't figure it out, and told me to take it to the dealer.
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I have a 2008 Phaeton 3.0TDI, a couple of weeks ago i had a problem with the car it kept loosing the memory for the keys then then boot wouldn't open then the starter battery went down etc etc... I found this to be the fuse for the starter battery, Replaced that and the car was good as gold, However since then i now have no sound on the radio when pressing sound it comes up with DSP system not available the sat nav comes up with the same not available as does the phone and the parking sensors work but no sound.,etc,
I took the car into my not very supportive VW dealer who spent 2 hours just to tell me they didn't know what was wrong and could cost a lot of money for them to find out what was.... they had no intention of doing this even if i had said yes go ahead. I have not put it into a good electrician and car audio specialist who spend half the day just to say they do not know 100% what is wrong with it... they have suggested i replace the amp.... is this a problem others have faced before I go putting more time and money into this blind...
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I replaced the valve cover gasket set and that stopped the oil leak. A few months later it looks like the vtec valve assy. is leaking. Should I replace the vtec valve assy. or just the gaskets?
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AC went out on 2003 Honda Accord with 120k miles. Mechanic checked and found bad compressor. Do they usually go bad after 8 years or that mileage? (I live in humid hot South, so AC gets used a lot.) Putting in a used compressor costs $470 with labor, 6 month guarantee, versus new compressor for $700 with labor, 12 month guarantee. Since it's the start of summer, a 12 month guarantee doesn't much more. But will used compressor last for another 5-8 years or 100k miles? When new (or originally in the car) how long do they usually last?
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I bought this car off the showroom floor with about 1,200 miles on it. Since just past 70,000 miles or so, this car has been using more and more oil between changes. It now appears to be up to about 1 quart per thousand miles, maybe just 800 miles. I don't see any sign of a leak. There now are 201,000 miles on this engine. The V-tech solenoid had to be replaced about 30,000 miles back. Timing chain has never been replaced; nothing else major has been repaired. Last new PCV valve was put in about 30,000 miles back. It didn't seem to slow down oil consumption. This oil problem is the only problem with this car, except for the V-tec before, and some rattles. Otherwise it is as reliable as any car I've ever owned, and I've been around a while.
I've read many blogs and other web pages on this, and it's a common problem with this particular Honda engine. Is there any chance that this oil usage is something besides worn piston rings? Some people seem to think it might be worn valve seals, and/or worn camshaft seals? how expensive is that to get fixed? If it's any of these things, is there really any practical solution other than a new engine, or maybe a rebuilt?
Short of thousands of $ in repair costs, would a different type of oil reduce oil consumption? I read some people saying to stay away from synthetic (why would that matter?); some talk about oil treatments; one honda service manager says he puts good old STP in a high mileage, Honda, he owns. I tried that with this car, just one application, and I didn't notice any drop in consumption, but I drive a LOT, in all types of conditions, so I don't know that I gave it a real chance to work. In such an old engine, if I experiment with these, is there any chance of doing further damage to the engine? For that matter, would switching to 5W-30 or maybe a 10-weight, possibly slow down this excessive oil usage? I really don't want to buy a new car.
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I have a honda accord 2003 ex. I bought the car over a year ago. A couple months in with the car i started to feel that the car vibrates while in idle. I replace the motor mounts and the shaking is still there. When i drive the car at night with the headlights on the shaking gets worse. If i put it in neutral sometimes there is no shaking and sometimes you can feel it a little bit. Also, in the summer when i turn on the ac the shaking gets so much worse, even if i put it in neutral the shaking is still pretty bad. One more thing, when i turn on the heat and put the car in neutral there is not too much shaking. I just don't know what to do anymore.
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My sister unknowingly grabbed her Honda Odyssey car key and used it to start and drive her Honda Civic. She didn’t realize what she’d done until she had trouble taking the key out of the ignition after driving the Civic. Now we’re wondering about these car keys and security.
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I have my Accord Automatic. Well when driving and the car goes like to a different gear, it slides. When this happens i let go of the gas and press the gas slowly again and go back up to my speed.
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I recently left my car parked at a park and ride over the holiday weekend while traveling to visit some family, and when I returned the car would not start as quickly as it had been prior to me leaving it. The car is an '03 with about 165k miles on it, battery replaced about two years ago. I do travel quite often for work, but have never noticed a drop off in crank time until this past weekend.
I did have the serpentine belt changed almost three months ago. (not saying that is in any way related to my current issue, just giving a bit of history on car maintenance). What I should have checked, (starter, battery, etc)? Should I not leave the car idle for more than a couple of days with such high miles on the engine?
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I drive a 2003 Honda Accord and it shakes violently whenever I'm accelerating between 55 and 65 mph. If you put a shaker on the passenger seat, you'd have a martini. Approaching 55, it's fine, and then it shakes as I go up to 65 and then smooths out when I pass 65. If I am cruising, but not accelerating in between 55 and 65, it stops shaking, but once I hit the gas, it shakes.
The same phenomenon occurs in both third and fourth gears, so it doesn't appear to be related to what part of the power band the car is in. This model Accord had a recall on the engine mounts, which I had replaced at no small cost already.
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I am getting a raw constant raw gas odor from under the hood - and in the cabin with the ventilation on. This happens whenever the engine is on - hot, cold, at start up or 50 miles down the road. No visible leaks, no drips - nothing. My lousy Honda dealer found nothing. Pressure check on the fuel system was fine,no leaking hoses, no check engine light, no codes. Smell seems to be coming from the behind the engine on the left side (looking at the engine from the front) - behind cylinders 1 and 2. 125k EX V6.
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I drive a 96 honda accord and my dad just got a 2003 VW golf and when i drive it it feels weird. When i hit the gas on my accord its solid and hard but when i hit the gas on the VW golf it feels loose i can hit the bottom of the car in the gas and it wont make any reaction.
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