Honda - Accord :: 2008 - SRS Light On / Loads Of Dirt Dust Behind Dash And Panels
Jan 22, 2016
2008 honda accord coupe ex-l
So, I assisted my sister in finding my nephew a used car and everything looked great on the surface as well as mechanical. We get the car home and the SRS light comes on.. I started digging into why and find there is dirt dust all behind the dash and side panels around airbags in back and pretty much everywhere below the surface.
Digging into the service records I see they did have to replace a fender liner which might have been a port of entry for all the dirt and dust. Apparently the young driver was putting in mileage on dry dirt roads without a fender liner.
I did caution against buying this car previously, even before looking at it, because it was a teenage driver, there was a minor wreck into driver's door and repairs had to be made for him running up on a curb as well. But in their desperation for a car.. they asked me to check out the mechanics of it.. i did.. they looked good.. but I missed all this dirt dust and now i feel bad.
Anyways, how to go about cleaning out all this dirt dust behind the dash, and panels of the car? I worried if I leave it there, he will experience additional expensive electronic issues.
Was thinking of taking off some side panels and dash off, and using a vacuum with a brush head to try and get it.. I could use compressed air.. but perhaps that may be potentially harmful to other electronics and connections?
As for the SRS light, i was able to count the light flashes in dash to get code 8-3 off of the flashing SRS light and a 7-1 off the ABS light. Referencing those: "Internal Failure of SRS unit".
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I just bought this '93 Accord. Nice car, well-maintained and clean. Issue is the D4 transmission light on the dash does not light up when car is shifted into D4. The car takes off well, shifts through the gears well; however, the overdrive never kicks in. D4 is running the same as D3. What is my best route to remedy?
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I started my car a few weeks ago, and the check engine light came on and the S light on my dash kept blinking. Followed by a difficulty stepping on the gas pedal. I attempted the paperclip way of scanning my OBD1 scanner. When I used it, the check engine light went off, no S light blinking anymore, and the gas pedal worked great! I also changed out my VSS (vehicle speed sensor) but the light came on anyway, and my speedometer can't read at correct speeds. Could the engine light problem be because of misfiring due to spark plugs? I don't want to keep buying parts and stuff unless I'm 100% sure it will fix the issue.
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1993 accord my d4 light on the dash is flashing and it wont shift out of park....
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I have a 98 Honda Accord in pretty good shape even though it has 340,000 miles on it. For the past month I have intermittently been having the dash idiot light that shows all 4 doors and the trunk lid is open -- coming on. In addition, the "brake" light that is just to the right of the blue "high beam" dash light, also comes on and the past week the "battery" light comes on. It also seems like the headlights slightly dim and maybe even the blower motor slows down just little. It started out lasting less than a second and now last maybe 2 or 3 seconds. I took it by one of the Advanced Auto parts stores and they did a diagnose check on the alternator, starter and battery. Everything at that moment, checked out fine. Alternator checked out good during regular operation and under loaded condition. Almost everything on the car is original except timing belt.
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My 2008 Honda Accord 's dashboard Engine Malfunction Light got lit. I have driven a further 4 kilometers and stopped at a lube station and found that oil level is a little low.
Did an engine flush and refilled with synthetic oil. The MFL light is gone after a minute of starting and it stayed out.
Now the problem that I am facing is poor gas mileage. I can literally see the fuel guage going down while driving . A full tank now gets me around 200 KM rather than 550-600 which I usually get.
Google search suggested an ECU reset. Is this safe ? or should the car need to go to the service station?
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I have a 1990 Honda Accord that I'm having a problem with. When I turn the key to start the car, the car turns over and starts great, but when I let go of the key the car immediately dies. Before I actually push the key into position III to start the car, I've discovered that I can move the key in the range between positions II and III and get the indicator lights on the dash to go on and off, so clearly there is some sort of loose electrical connection. I've discovered that if I start the car and then quickly turn the key back a ways to the point where the connection seems to be good, I can keep the car from dying and then it runs fine. Does the diagnosis of a bad ignition cylinder/switch seem to be accurate for this problem? I just don't want to replace the wrong component(s).
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I have a 2004 V6 EX Honda Accord Sedan, and I recently have been hearing a moaning/creaking noise that seems to be coming from behind the drivers side dash. It seems to happen randomly (not correlated to the brakes, turning, accelerating, etc.) and just happens every few minutes or so. Sometimes it stops for a while then starts doing it again. The sound itself only lasts about 2 seconds each time and goes from lower pitch to a higher pitch. I just had my transmission fluid drained and filled and oil changed, but this started happening right before these changes. My engine maintenance light was on, but I figured that was for my oil change or tranny fluid and it just wasn't reset (so I turned it off...maybe not a good idea), but now I'm thinking it was for the problem that's causing this sound.
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My 2003 Honda Element sometimes generates a vibration that feels just like driving down a washboard dirt road. You know one that the ridges are very close together. This only happens around 40 MPH with a load on the engine. At first I thought it was a wheel, tire or suspension issue. But I can make it stop instantly by pushing or releasing the gas pedal. So this leads me to think it is transmission related. This is a automatic. I would like to see the car sometime but would not feel right about passing on this problem without knowing the cost to fix it. Stumped in Seattle.
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Car- 2008 Honda accord lxp automatic transmission 43k miles warranty expired in Jan 2013
I had a breakdown in this car about a week ago I was driving about 20 MPH and all the sudden it sounded like something broke lose in my engine like a rock was bouncing around in there, then came a very loud buzzing sound. I parked the car and got out because it sounded like I had a branch or something stuck on my wheel. Nothing and then I hoped back in drove it very slowly and the buzzing was super loud and it was jerking then it just died. It would not start back up again.
The motor cranks, but will not turn over. I had it towed to an automotive/transmission shop and they could not get power to the car I then towed it to another autoshop he had it for two days and ran every diagnostic he could and still could not get power to the car told me I would most likely need a new computer.
I then had it towed to Honda where it is currently at. They first said that it needed a new PCM because they could get no communication with the car. I ordered a new PCM with everything.
They put in the new PCM and still the car will not work and they are not sure why? He said “every once in a while we get a car in here that kicks are ass and your car is it” Not exactly having a whole lot of confidence in this car?
Any guess on what this might be? Maybe something everyone has overlooked this far? I have had it towed to 3 different shops and everyone is pretty much stumped. So I really cant afford to continue replacing things or guessing what should I do? Or what in the HELL is wrong with this car?
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My 2008 Honda Accord grinds when I start it up, not every time, but usually when it's been sitting for hours. I used to think that I needed an oil change, because after I got one, the grinding went away. When it came back "Time for an oil change!" But I just got an oil change last week, and the grinding started again the next day. My dealership said it was no big deal and I could drive the car that way, it wouldn't hurt the car. What this might be and what I should do about it?
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I am quite displeased with the creaking and rattling noises I keep getting from my 2012 3.6 Premium's door panels and dash. I have already had these looked at by a dealership multiple times in the last year or so. Each time they "fix" it, the noises go away for some weeks and always keep coming back in one form or another.
I have an appointment with a different dealership this week. I hope they will be able to fix this for good. However, the noises have really spoiled the experience of this car. I wonder if all Passat's suffer from this issue. Just wanted to vent, don't know how else to let it out of my system
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I have an '08 Accord Cpe with a V6 and 5-speed auto. transmission. When driving on a level stretch of road trying to hold the speed at 40mph the engine speed will bounce up and down between 1400 and 1700 RPM. The engine is warm. The transmission feels like it is trying to up-shift and make the car go faster thus nearly impossible to hold the speed at 40mph. If I put the transmission in 3rd gear so it can't shift up there isn't this problem. I have also noticed a lugging or hesitating when trying to accelerate when the engine is cold. I wonder if these are related issues?
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My Honda has a pop or clunk when braking at low speeds( below 5mph) just before coming to a stop. It will pop as I start forward again (below 5mph). It only occurs when the outside temperature is above 90-95 degrees and after driving for 10-15 minutes. Dealership has looked at it twice and has not found any issue. I've changed brake pads and rotors as well as lubricated everything - didn't work. Brake performance, handling, etc isn't affected. It's highly annoying and makes me worry that something will eventually fail.
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Lately, when I put the car into Park, I often hear a short beeping noise....sometimes one tone, sometimes two. Nothing seems to be wrong with the transmission, and my mechanic has no idea what it is.
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Our 2008 Honda Accord has about 89,000 miles on it. For the last few years, it has been making a creaking/groaning sound at low speeds. Generally between 10-20 miles an hour (so you hear in more in rush hour when you are generally annoyed anyway), only when its hot (due to extensive driving or weather - we live in Texas so its awful in the summer) and it does not correlate to using the brakes. We took it to Honda and they said the "bushings" were worn but not broken so they wouldn't fix it. Our own shop has replace both front control arms. The right side they did last week and 3 days later the sound is starting up again. Its almost as if they can lube it to fix it temporarily but I'd much rather a permanent fix. My father in law suggested the struts.
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I am a grad student hoping my car will hang in there till graduation next year. I have about 227,000 miles on my Honda Accord Wagon and recently the odometer stopped working, S light started flashing, and the check engine light came on. This only happens sometimes, and the check engine light does not always come on when the S light flashes and odometer stops working. I've continued driving the car to see what happens and so far, no problems have come up. I have driven another 1000 miles and am hoping I can just ignore the problem and continue driving the vehicle since I am not in a position to fix it or get a new car.
Recently I passed my California emissions test and she seems to be running smooth. Any thoughts or warnings as to why sometimes these signals happen?
I have to drive with GPS on all the time to know my speed, but other than that I feel OK.
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We have an 07 F150 XL reg cab. Having problem with the doors rattling going down a dirt or bumpy road. They sound almost as if door weren't shut rite even though they are slammed shut. We took it in to the dealer and they said they adjusted and replaced door stops but we still have the same problem. plus they said they could not duplicate.
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I've saw several complaints about 2008 Honda Accord Popping at low braking speeds and start from stop only in hot weather. I've never saw a solution.
This is the other persons complaint: My Honda has a pop or clunk when braking at low speeds( below 5mph) just before coming to a stop. It will pop as I start forward again (below 5mph). It only occurs when the outside temperature is above 90-95 degrees and after driving for 10-15 minutes.
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My 2008 Honda Accord started burning oil at the rate of 1 quart per 2000 miles. It currently has 48,000 miles on it. The dealer told me that this is within Honda's specifications. Honda won't do any warranty work unless it is burning oil at the rate of 1 quart every 1,000 miles. The dealer service person told me that if I use their oil and filters - get my oil changes there at the dealership - it will burn much less oil. Question - if they are using some sort of high mileage oil, and it does indeed burn less oil, is this problem considered fixed? Should I hold out for some engine work before the warranty runs out? How should I approach this?
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08 Accord. After replacing the starter and cleaning the throttle body I keep having a CEL and the P0507 code.
Checked for leaks around intake, vacuum lines, etc. found none.
Tried the relearn procedure and still no luck. Car idea higher than normal ( just over 1000 rpms warm). Also feels like it wants to pull even when stopped.
So I figure I have either:-damaged the throttle body somehow cleaning it- Have incorrectly implemented the re learn procedure- missed a vacuum leak ( possible but doubtful)- or something else I don't know about
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