Honda - Fit :: Engine Is Humming At Around 3800 - 3900 RPM In 5th Gear
Mar 27, 2015
I just started a daily commute of 85 miles each way and I am wondering if it is as bad for my car as it is on my mind. My question...
My car is a Honda Fit with a small 1.5L engine. I usually cruise at a constant speed of 78-79mph for about 80 miles of the commute each way. The Fit has a 5-speed and in 5th gear the engine is humming at around 3,800-3,900 RPM. The question is, as I put around 1k on my car a week, is it bad for my engine to run it this way? I've heard highways miles are better as far as brakes, starters, so on but I am wondering if I am just not driving a car suitable for my commute.
Would it be beneficial to ditch the small 1.5L engine for a bigger V6? Or, is it perfectly fine to drive at a constant interstate speed with RPMs near 4,000 RPM. What problems could this potentially cause? Any recommended maintenance tips for this type of wear and tear?
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Two control arms and a passenger side cv axle I get a bad engine vibration @3800 rpm. Feels like solid motor mounts. It goes away @4500 rpm.
The old cv axle was making noise from the inner joint and the control arm bushings were broken apart.
The engine vibration was not there with the old parts.
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Sounds like I may have a problem that is not all that uncommon i have a 94 honda accord with 100k miles, runs great, handles great
Just last week I noticed a resonant humming / growling sound coming from the engine - it's very "vocal"it only occurs around 2000 rpm, and is more pronounced when decelerating there's no apparent loss of power or fuel efficiency the sound occurs with or without the transmission engaged and seems to be worse after the car has heated up a bit
Cat converter? Intake manifold?
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My 2000 Honda CRV starts when cold, however I must continue to give it gas and it will die when I shift into Reverse or Drive. If I rev the engine, I can keep it running and it will run OK once warmed up. When I get it going, the engine will stall if I attempt to let it idle. All problems resolve themselves once the engine is warm. Several mechanics have seen the problem, but cannot determine a solution other than to let the engine warm up. I live in Boston and the combination of having to work my way out of a parking space and the enginge continously stalling when I shift into R or D is making life difficult?
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I have a 2000 Honda Accord EX v6 and I have been taking it the dealer for regular maintenance and Oil Change but today I noticed my Car would not start
I can hear the engine start , but when I put the Gear (automatic ) in either reverse or D4 the engine will stop.
Then I waited for some time and restarted it and It was OK.
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I have an 04 Accord EXV6 with 237K miles. I have recently replaced shock absorber assemblies and all 6 motor mounts / transmission mounts, which resolved most of the loud "clunking" noises. However, I now have more of a "rattle" sound which I hear when one of three things happens...First, when the engine is started (typically when the engine is cold). Secondly, when shifting between park, reverse, and drive (also, more common when engine is cold). Lastly, when driving over rough roads or potholes at slow speed. The sound is the same in each of the 3 conditions, and appears to be coming from the right side. It doesn't seem to me that any bushings, control arms. etc. would be the cause since the same sound is heard during startup or gear shifting while the car is sitting still.
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I hit a pot hole. Front left tire went flat and wheel damaged. I changed tired and wheel. After that humming or cyclic roaring sound is coming from front of car when speed goes above 30mph. Front middle or front-right side I can't really say for sure exactly from where it is coming but it is front. What it could be. It's not bad so far. I can still drive at 65mph.
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My grand prix is getting terrible mileage but runs great. Where should I begin checking. There is no codes or lights. It runs good but only gets 18-19 mpg on the hwy. I traded my wifes 97 Bonneville for this car and that big old bonnie got about 26 on the hwy with the same engine. I just assumed the gp would do at the very least the same. What do you guys get with the 98's? I don't know where to start but if it don't get better than that, I'm trading it back for a Bonneville. It has 113k on it. I have put a new Air Filter in it and Thermostat. It seems like it does not heat up very much but I guess it is ok. I put the new Thermostat in and it heats up the same. About 1/4 way up the gauge. I guess like 160-170?
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Once the car reaches about 80 miles per hour, a buzzing/humming noise is emitted from the front of the car. I can't tell whether it's from the dashboard area or the footwell area, but it sounds like it's coming from below. There seems to be an exact speed where the noise stops and ends. The car does not shake or vibrate when the noise occurs.
The noise has happened twice. Not coincidentally, those were the only two time the car has been above 75 or so miles per hour within the past few weeks. I have looked on some forums for similar happenings, and I found the answer could be bad wheel bearings.
Other problems with the car include a very-vibraty engine between 1000 & 1500 RPM, a gurgling noise at low speeds/idle, and harsh shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear.
I've posted a video on YouTube of the car making the noise. It's a little hard to hear the noise in the video: [URL] .....
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I have an 06 4-cylinder Camry LE. I recently had the belt tensioner, idler bearing, and water pump replaced under warranty. I originally went in to have it looked at because it was making a rattling/humming sound when I put it into gear, but would go away for the most part after running down the road for awhile. The other day, I had to back up to the house (on an incline) and it started making that same noise, but louder. For the most part, it goes away after driving, but I can still feel that humming vibration in the gas pedal however. I took it into the dealer and had them inspect it again. I was told that it is nothing to be concerned about. The computer was checked and came back clean. It was stated in my invoice as the following:
"Due to prolonged disconnect of the battery during previous repair. The engine needs to relearn all it's preset values. This condition is not a problem."
I have stumbled across others stating a possible valve issue, along with "you need to replace the water pump," which I already did.
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I have a 2000 grand prix gtp, I am trying to pull the motor so i can change some things up so i can race it. But how to pull the motor or transmission with it.
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I bought a gorgeous red 4.0L V-6 Mustang very cheap last week because it needed a clutch. I would not even pull the car. Little did I know that the clutch kit, including the slave cylinder and flywheel, was over $600. (But that's another story.)
The car runs now, but will not go over 3800 RPM in any gear. It had NINE codes, which they cleared. I was told that they primarily pointed to the MAF sensor. I cleaned it with the recommended aerosol. I have driven it 20 miles, and the MIL has not returned, but the little wrench symbol has. The Manual says to take it to the dealer (of course). The car seems to run fairly well, with the exception of the low rev limit. It is a "fly by wire" set up, with electronic throttle.
The cleared codes were P0102, P0113, P0135, P0141, P0155, P0161, P0403, P0443, and P0446. They actually repeated on Autozone's scanner. (My six year old Actron won't link to this car for some reason.
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The problem occurs under all conditions, cold start, hot start, weather doesn't play a factor. When you turn the key it will sometimes fire right away and then die or you'll have to turn it over for a few seconds. I now just rest my foot on the gas and press it slightly the second that it fires. It will sort of stumble and surge for a second or two and then it is fine. A few times it has died at a stop light, although not recently. It has has 45,000 miles and isn't driven very often. I've scoured the internet and have come to the conclusion that it is getting too much fuel, hence when pressing the gas to open the throttle body to let more air in works. It seems to be a rather common problem with this engine but I can't seem to find an actual smoking gun fix posted anywhere. Some suggest the fuel pressure regulator. I don't have a fuel pressure tester but I the regulator isn't leaking out of the vent tube. Coolant temp sensor maybe?
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. MK IV 1.8T .... Title says it all ....
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I picked up a 2012 2.5L SE w/ Sunroof and Nav over the Christmas holiday.
I have been driving back and forth between Dallas and Kansas for work and I've notice an "odd" noise at highway speeds. When I have the cruise control set for the upper 70's and the car is in 6th, I can hear, for lack of a better word, a hum from the rear of the car. If I switch the Tiptronic down to 5th the hum goes away. As soon as I shift back to 6th, it returns.
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My Subaru started making a noise that the mechanic can't seem to identify - I hear it when the car is in gear and moving only - it's like a humming noise that increases in frequency as the car goes faster and winds down as I approach a stop - it totally stops if the car is not moving even though the engine is running. It doesn't sound like it's coming from the tires. It's a noise that I feel like I've heard coming from a K car or a Chrysler or something. It's not a rattling but rather changes regularly with acceleration/deceleration. I was thinking it might have something to do with the turbo. The car seems a little sluggish (more than lag in the turbo, maybe?)
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My 2004 Santa Fe 2.4L manual transmission with 200,000km on it has this hard to explain noise when in gear and coasting. This is when my foot it off the gas and say I'm going down a slight incline. There is a pulsating humming noise, worse in the lower gears that coincides with the engine holding the car back. This only seems to happen during coasting and not when down gearing to slow down. And even when coasting if I press even ever so slightly on the gas so the engine is not holding the vehicle back, it goes away.
The clutch has never been replaced and I'm somewhat assuming it may be the clutch becoming worn.
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I own a 2006 mustang v6 manual. I have never had a problem with my vehicle but my wife was hit from behind and now it makes a rattle under the car when I let off the gas or rev the engine. Well, tonight it worked fine on my way home but when I got back in the car to drive I noticed the car tach when I rev will not go over 4000 rpm and will bounce. When I drive it's like there is no power to accelerate (sputter cuts in and out) and I really can't go past 25-30 mph. After I reved the engine at the said 4000 rpm bounce for a few seconds there is a odor (unknown smell but almost a burnt smell)
The strange rattle metal sound Seems like it is coming from under the car about the drivers/passenger seats, but who knows. It's just my observation. Tranny is shifting into gears fine and idel is fine
I'm gonna look at it tomorrow. I need some direction on where to start
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I have a 2002 Honda Civic EX with 146,000 miles. It started making a whining/high pitched humming type noise whenever I turned. Every now and then it makes the same noise (though not as loud) when I'm just driving straight.
When I checked my power steering fluid, it was low, so I added to it. That worked with the noise briefly, but now it's back and the fluid level is fine.
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My 2011 Traverse makes a slight humming noise when operating. Chevrolet says the steering gear is leaking. Need a new steering gear and pump. Also said it is not covered under the powertrain warranty. Our personal mechanic says it should be covered. In April they replaced the steering gear housing kit free of charge. I am an idiot when it comes to figuring out what is supposed to be covered. Why would the steering gear housing kit be covered but not the steering gear? Why would a 2011 have problems with the steering gear? I drive like a granny. Have about 62,000 miles on it.
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We just brought home a new Tiguan 2012 Automatic and when we are in Drive (D) and going about 26-30 mph the transmission stays in a high gear (5th) and makes a vibrating hum.
It happens on a flat road when someone is in front of us and forces us to stay in the 26-30mph range.
It feels like it wont drop back to 4th at this speed and is overloaded in 5th. When we give it some gas it will hum and lag even more then finallly downshift.
Tiptronic and Sport seem fine but Drive does not feel normal in this range.
When we took back to dealer at 130 miles on the odometer, the tech sat in on the drive and experienced the symptom. His conclusion was that the car is in its "Adaptive Learning" phase and it should work itself out after about 600+ miles.
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