Hyundai - Accent :: 2006 Auto Trans - Stuck In 3rd And Downshifts Badly When Coming To A Stop
Jul 4, 2015
Dad has a Hyundai Accent that hasn't had the best service history. After discovering this I started doing minor stuff (oil & filter, spark plugs, etc) on the car. The car has done 119,000km and about 2 months ago I decided to change the auto trans fluid and filter, I don't think its ever been done before and the fluid was pretty bad. I followed the tutorials exactly and everything was fine until yesterday. It seems the car get stuck in 3rd and downshifts badly when coming to a stop. When I last drove it I got home and quickly opened up the hood. I could see smoke coming from somewhere near the trans and there was a bad smell. We haven't driven the car since and I don't know what the problem is. I've checked on google and some people have used a scanning tool to get the error code, but the car doesn't throw a check engine light so will the error code be there?
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2002 Hyundai Accent with automatic transmission. This problem happens only if I floor the gas gas on the highway (trying to pass somebody or get out of the way in a hurry) or if I apply too much gas after coasting around a sharp turn. My car will then downshift with a jerk and an audible THUNK!. Right now I just avoid those situations and it shifts through all its gears fine, it only happens when I cause a sudden downshift. Transmission fluid level and color fine.
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I have an '05 accent with an auto trans. The car only has 25k on it with the original trans fluid. Every once in a while the trans will thud when coming to a quick stop. It actually doesn't even make a noise, but you can feel it going into presumably 1st gear. It only happens when I need to semi-quickly stop for a yellow light etc. right as I'm coming to a complete stop. Trans seems completely fine otherwise. Is this a normal thing? Just an older style/technology auto?
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Why my 2010 auto trans 4cyl Camry often feels like someone is applying the foot brake when I take my foot off the accelerator? Is it the auto trans downshifting? When I feel it occur and slip it into neutral, it releases and I coast freely again. It's really annoying sometimes especially as I've been driving a 1995 Camry auto for the past 15 years which does not do this.
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Accent with about 120,000 miles on it. Last summer, it started jerking badly from park to 1st and 1st to 2nd for the first five or ten minutes that I drove it. It stopped during the winter (Texas winter, so a mild fall in most places with seasons), the check engine light never came on, and the transmission fluid was fine (both color and volume), so I didn't get it checked out. Now that it's summer again, the jerking has started back up. I've also noticed in the last few weeks weak acceleration after stopping (again, usually only in the first ten minutes or so of driving). And today my check engine light came on.
I've checked the fuses, and I just got my oil changed (they said the check engine light was giving them a transmission code, but didn't elaborate). I have a leaking valve cover gasket and cracked belts that I'll be repairing ASAP. Is it possible that either of those are causing this problem?
Since I'm a single young woman, I don't want to go into a shop without being fully informed (I can't tell you how many times I've been ripped off). My research suggested a couple things:1. It might be the coil packs.2. I might need a new transmission.
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Everything was working perfectly. I stopped at McDonalds to get a bite to eat. When I left McDonalds, the car would not shift out of first gear. I have checked the transmission fluid and it appears to be good. I shifted from Park to low, and low back to park several times making sure there was no problem there. I noticed it also kicks hard when going into reverse, and it kicks hard when going into drive. When it is driven it will not shift out of first gear.
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Or just can I just replace and go. I'm having some issues with trans on my 06 gs430. It's having a downshift clunk/jerk when coming to a stop. I just purchased a used trans, but would like to see if it could be ecu related. I have seen other comments from other member that they replaced the trans, but still the issues were present. Some stated that there was some issues with the ecu holding the trans solenoid longer then the usual.
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A friend of my brother swapped an auto trans OUT of his 98 passat (2.8 L) WITH a trans code EZZ and now its stuck in 3rd and in safe mode... What could be the cause??
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe, has 99,000 miles 3.5L. After changing the alternator (alternator did die and drained my battery, the shop recharged the battery) now it seems be stuck in 3rd gear and does not wont to shift (it is a automatic). Fluids are good, transmission was flushed between 50-60,000 miles.
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I've got a 2003 Accent and my automatic transmission went out, no reverse and the only forward gear is 1st. Was thinking of pulling it and swapping it for a used, but I have been reading on here the many, many automatic transmission problems of the accent and my next thought was to just rebuild it myself. But now I'm thinking more along the of a swap from auto to manual, as I don't want to have to rebuild a transmission that is only going to have to be rebuilt again anyway. As far as stuff like the clutch pedal, linkages, gear shifter, I can get those pretty easily. Does the Accent have a hydraulic clutch?
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On my 2.5 SE auto, it feels like the car shifts into neutral at stop lights. Is this the case? If so, is this cause for concern. I know on my old Volvo S60, they removed this feature because it was causing premature wear with all of the extra shifting into and out of neutral.
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So today I noticed a weird noise coming from the back from the car when i stop like a *clack clack clack* it doesn't always make the noise so i cant replicate it, what is it? I am taking it to the dealer next week but an insight will be good....
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I have an interesting issue that happened today after filling up on the way home from work. I have a 2011 Accent; 5 speed manual with 3900 miles. I filled up my tank and then topped off a little extra (which I now know is a no no) after the pump shut off. I put the cap back on, and after getting a cup of coffee, cranked her up and started on my way home. I drove maybe 20 feet and after coming to a stop, the car stalled. I wasn't sure at this point if maybe I let off the clutch a little too much. I started right back up and drove another 20 feet to a stop sign, and she stalled out on me again.
This time, after starting right back up, I noticed the check engine light was on, and if the car idled, it stalled. This is where it gets a little interesting. I was maybe 5 miles from the dealership where I bought my car. So I made a quick trip to the dealership to see if they could get the codes to determine the problem. After parking at the dealership, I turned off the car, removed the key from the ignition for about 10 seconds, and then started up again for giggles. The check engine light is now gone, and the car doesn't stall when idle. I have an appointment to get my oil changed, and am wondering if the codes can still be pulled?
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So my 2008 accent is my daily driver. I'm nearing the 300,000 mile mark but the last 100,000 miles have been plagued with random multiple misfires. I have changed the cables, crankshaft sensor, plugs, and I've been through numerous costly coils (I keep 4 with me). All listed parts were most recently changed at the same time. Why do I misfire on nearly every commute and get stuck operating on 3 cylinders?
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My truck is starting to shift strange. As it warms up and I'm in drive, it will shift between drive and 2nd by itself. When I pull up to a stop lite, it's like it's stuck in drive and doesn't downshift. Ultimately it dies. I've checked my fluid and its fine. Any ideas? Oh and my engine light is on. Can a parts store find the code for the issue I'm having?
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My VSC and check engine light have come on. In addition now the auto trans will not shift past 4 gear with in auto or with me doing it manually. My local shop who has worked on this car before and is very good put the computer reader on it and got a P0500 for vehicle speed sensor "A". Today they put it on the real monitor and it reads a different code that says check engine code but does not reveal the code to read.
I really don't want to go to my dealer and get it hard. The car has 175,000 and until now has run great. I tried the gas cap fix to no avail. The shop did a reset when i first got there and it last 75 yards.
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I have a 2001 Hyundai Accent with 210,000 miles. I had had very few problems with the car in the past 11 years - 2 sensor problems, transmission related at 100K and oxygen sensor at 160K. I have done oil changes every 3000-4000 miles, transmission flushes every 30K, and timing belt replacements every 60K. However, within the last month, the car sometimes dies when I fast or slow brake to a stop. Due to the high mileage, I had the fuel pump and fuel filter replaced and had the timing/tuneup checked. There is no check computer light lit. What else can I check?
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I purchased a 2009 Hyundai Accent Automatic with less than 50000 Miles. I recently had to replace spark plug connector due to rats. Now, having issues with getting it to drive in the mornings. Description;I let the car warm up about 2 minutes before putting it in drive. Once I let my foot off of the brake the car begins to jolt forward and won't stop until I put my foot back on the brake. Even while holding the brake the car jolts but won't go forward. I have to put the car back in Park before it will stop. This goes on for about 15 to 20 minutes. Then, as if there were never any problems, the car drives as it is supposed to. *I have turned the car off and restarted but the car still jolts forward until it decides not to.I have checked the transmission fluid and it doesn't appear dirty but maybe low. Would low transmission fluid level cause this type of behavior? I am on a budget and a huge transmission bill is not really something I can afford right now. But I need to be able to get to work everyday. I can't imagine that the transmission is going up when the car has less than 50000 miles on it. I've had it since the middle of January.
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I have a 2007f550 auto trans with a flashing tow/haul light and a code of po791 coming up. Flashing light will clear in k/o position and remain off until placing selector in drive,after two feet or so of travel,an audible clunk and the trans acts like it is in third gear. Reverse is no change and highway will not shift into o.d. The iss "A" is listed as the culprit but ford doesn't list a iss a.
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So my car started skipping really badly about two weeks ago and sometimes even shuts off by itself. Now I've had two different mechanics try to fix this unsuccessfully. One replace the coil for two of the spark plugs and the wires for all four, didn't work. The other mechanic replaced the crank sensor, 15 minutes on the drive home from them, the skipping started again. Both mechanics found no issue driving it around right after replacing something, but the problem occurred after a day for each fix. Yesterday I put in some dry gas in the full tank, thinking it might be some bad gas or maybe I got some condensation, because the stalling didn't happen until recently when my mom filled up the gas tank completely.
Today I took the car for ride down to the end of my dead end road and the car stalled part way down, once I got to the end I put the car in park and then turned the car completely off then back on again. The car started fine and I drove back up to my house and parked in my driveway, I revved the engine in park and at around 3,000 rpm, it skipped once. I revved a few more times, but no skipping, I took it out for a ride and went about 10 miles with no skipping(but I kept the rpm under 3,000). Once i got back home I parked it and kept revving it for a few minutes even getting up to 4,000 rpm but still no skipping. I don't think the problem is fixed because both the first mechanic and the second had no issues with it right after they tried something, only for it to not have worked in the end. What it could be? This car has been my main mode of transportation so I need to get it working as fast as possible.
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My 2011 toyota tacoma auto transmission downshifts on any slight decline, even to the point of losing traction in the rear end if I am on slippery pavement. How can I disable the electronic engine brake?
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