Hyundai - Tiburon :: 2006 - AC Not Working When Stopped And Engine Overheating
Aug 14, 2014
My 2006 Hyundai Tiburon is having issues with the AC not working when the car is idling. In addition to the AC not blowing cold air, the engine is running hot, almost overheating,however when I get up to speed and start moving again the engine cools back down and the AC blows perfectly. I can smell the sweet smell of antifreeze coming from some where when I get out of the car and I can see that it is leaking under the hood somewhere but I don't see anything on the ground. What is going on?
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2005 Hyundai Tiburon Keeps Overheating
I live in Washington State and have a 2005 Hyundai Tiburon with less than 110,000 miles. I have had it for 5 years, and have not had any issues with the car until recently (last 2-3 months). My car overheated on me back in May while out running work related errands. I was able to leave it parked downtown while my husband took a break from his job to come pick me up. Since then, it has continued to overheat every time I drive it.
The temperature gauge climbs into, or dangerously close to, the “red Zone” within the first 10 minutes of driving. The first couple of times the car overheated, if I was using the air conditioner, it would start blowing hot air instead of cold air and the air would stay hot. Now when I drive the car with the air conditioner on and it over heats, it continues to blow cold air (if that matters at all).
My super handy husband (a certified motorcycle mechanic) has done the following in an attempt to fix the car:
•Checked coolant levels
•Topped off coolant
•Bled coolant system and added yet more coolant
•Replaced the thermostat
•Replaced the radiator cap
•Water pump was replaced November 2012 (not even a year old yet)
The radiator cap was the most recent fix. It was replaced on a Wednesday evening after testing it and finding that the existing one was not maintaining the proper PSI. The car drove great around town for two whole days without any issues (Thursday & Friday). Saturday, I decided to take it on a longer drive out of town to see if my good luck would hold…it didn’t. I drove a total of 30 miles round trip and my car started overheating after about 20. I limped back into town and barely made it back to our apartment.
My car continues to overheat!! What is going on?! So confused and frustrated I’m hesitant about taking it to a mechanic who, my husband is convinced, will just charge me to check all of the things he has already fixed.
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My A/C quits working when in stop and go traffic or at a long light. Comes back on when I get going again after a minute or 2. One shop says thermistor another says thermostat is faulty causing engine to overheat. Not sure who to believe. Car gauge never shows engine to be overheating. 2007 Hyundai Tiburon
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My 2006 Tiburon has run 70,000+ Kms and was running without any major issues until last week. Last week, it started to show starting issues. When checked, I found a cracked radiator and replaced it immediately. It solved the start up issues for the time, but the issue came back after a few weeks. My wife’s 2000 Corolla also changed radiator recently, but the issue didn’t appear so far.
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I just stopped for gas and as I was walking into the store I heard a poof sound and my car was smoking and all my coolant came pouring out from under the engine, I checked the two hoses coming off the radiator and there both connected and not wet, the leak came from somewhere other than that. 2003 Hyundai Tiburon 2.7 liter GT...
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I have 2003 Hyundai Tiburon 5 Speed. Today my wife was driving it and out of no where the car would not pick up speed like normal. we cam shift all the gears normal and the rpms go up but the speed takes time to get up there. When we parked the car i opened the hood and notice a smell and some smoke coming from under the engine block going to see a mechanic his week but what it could be.
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My engine is overheating, plenty of coolant but fan stopped working. Not sure whether to check fuse first. Dont actually know which fuse box to look in.
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Tiburon w/ ~ 78K miles. For the past several months it has been living in the garage and mostly been used to drive to and from the grocery store once every 2 weeks. I did let the maintenance lag longer than I should have. I just brought it in to get an oil changed only to be told that there was NO oil in my car. -- The oil light never came on and although there was a subtle clicking, the car really wasn't making noise any strange or loud noises, wasn't over heating, and for the most part seemed to be running perfectly fine.
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I drive a manual 2001 Hyundai Tiburon. I tried to take it on the expressway today and it took a long time for the RPMs to get high enough that I could shift gears. It seems to want to hover at about 2000. When I finally got into 5th gear, it would only go about 50-55mph with the pedal to the floor. When I turned off the AC, though, it would go about 70mph, but it lost speed quickly on hills and took a long time to regain it. I am not sure, but it seems like the gas mileage was substantially worse than it normally is. I didn't notice any new noises or smells or shakes or anything like that. The car is just really lagging and my mechanic is closed for the night. I would like to at least have a guess what it is so I don't have to worry about it all night.
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So I needed to have my clutch and slave cylinder replace on my 2000 Hyundai Tiboron about a month ago, and now I've noticed that in warmer weather the car totally loses acceleration. I took it back to the mechanic who had done the clutch work, but of course he couldn't reproduce the problem. Yesterday afternoon when it was 80+ degrees I saw the problem again, where I could push down on the accelerator and the RPMs would jump from 2.8k to about 3.8k and very little power would be transferred and very little acceleration. I then checked the car this morning while it was cool outside, and even after driving 30 miles to work over a mountain, the car had proper acceleration. So what might be causing the lose of power?
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I have leaking under my passenger and driver's side floors on my 2008 Hyundai Tiburon with 48,000 miles. I noticed a couple of weeks ago a small amount of water on the passenger side floor. It happened a few times...nothing major. It had not been raining but I had been using my A/C. Last night we had torrential downpours and my passenger side was completely flooded. The driver's side floor became wet too, but not nearly as much as the passenger side. Do you think it's something with my windshield or my A/C drain? Something else?
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I got a 2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT v6 and it starts humming after 40 mph and then the steering wheel shakes too...
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I have a 2003 Hyundai Tiburon. I have an aftermarket radio in my car that has the capability to be hooked up to a rear view camera. I did not put it in, I also do not have a back up camera. It was done before I got the car. At first it was just a quirky thing, whenever I would turn on the headlights, the radio would switch to back up mode. I would turn the radio on and then off again and everything was fine. Then every once in a while the radio and clock would reset. I kept getting annoyed with that so I left the light switch on. (When i turn my car off the headlights turn off as well) Then it occasionally started resetting when i turned the car on. Now as I drive down the road and my car has been on for 20 min, half hour, the dashboard lights turn off and the clock and radio reset.
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I have a 97' hyundai tiburon, I have multiple misfires that are p301 302 304 and rich airflow. I have changed the coil pack, spark plugs and wires, and the MAF sensor. Basically my car doesn't accelerate fast or go over 40(max), it putters when i try to accelerate.
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There is a problem in radio of my 2008 Hyundai Sonata. The radio display illuminates but does not display anything. But sometimes it displays ok magically then again problem appears. All the buttons are working and sound is ok.
But, a week ago radio stopped working at all. When i press on/off button, nothing happens. Only once in 2-3 days it works for some hours then again turns off.
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I have a 2014 TDI with 86,000 miles on it. Several weeks ago I had the heater core changed and since then the car has ran hot twice when what appears to be a regen. The heat has stopped working again. When it is running hot, I can smell a strong odor of ammonia. It does not run hot all the time. Last time it ran hot, I felt the radiator and it was not hot all over. The passenger side hose was not hot and the top of the radiator was not hot. I have taken it to the dealership several times.
At first they said that they thought that the thermostat needed changing. I declined and said that it would run hot all the time with a bad thermostat. The last time I brought it to the dealer - I stated that I think the radiator is clogged. Now they are indicating that they want to change the radiator, thermostat, heater core (again), and flush the system. The system has been pressure tested and no leaks have been found. The tech indicated that it ran hot while in the shop with the A/C on and it boiled over.
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So I noticed my temp gauge was starting to rise when I was on the freeway. I figured my fans were out but I just opened my hood and both fans were spinning. When I turned the car off both fans turned off but the temp gauge was almost into the red.
In the morning I turned on my AC and only the passenger side fan was working.
So I am not really sure what my next diagnostic step should be. The engine was not radiating any heat so I am not sure that it is even actually running that hot. Could it possibly be the temperature gauge? If I got a vagcom would I be able to check the actual temperature from there?
I am also concerned on how to find out if the fans are running at both speeds at the appropriate times.
Not sure if this is related but my cruise control stopped working a few weeks ago also.
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I have a 2004 volkswagen jetta, and it has started overheating. At first my problem was the thermostat. After that was changed out the fans stopped working correctly. It kept blowing fuses in s180 slot.
I read somewhere in another post that this is due to the fact the resistor in the low speed fan go bad, and for your car's radiator fan to go from zero to high speed, causes the fuse to blow. Also I read that when the fans start up it draws the most current, and then after it's running the current is considerably less.
This is my solution, I went to napa, and got a circuit breaker for a car, and Yes, to my surprise they make them. I picked up several a 10amp, 15 amp, 20 amp, and a 30 amp. First, I tried the 30 amp circuit breaker and it didn't trip the circuit, but when I put a regular fuse in the slot, it did trip the circuit, when I did the fan test at the thermostat switch. Next, I put the 25 amp in there and neither did it trip the circuit. When I put the 10 amp in the s180 slot, it tripped the circuit, just as the regular 30 amp fuses do. So that confirmed that the amps that were being drawn from the fans were not enough to trip a 30 amp circuit breaker.
What I did next, is I took a 20 amp circuit breaker and put that in the s180 slot. Then I hooked up vag com on my laptop to check and see how it performed with the 20 amp circuit, and these are the results.
Car Temperature in celsius
at 111 degrees the gauge was moving past the halfway point
at 115 degrees the gauge was one notch past halfway going towards the red zone
at 120 degrees the gauge was two notches past halfway going towards the red zone
at 122 degrees the fans kicked on high speed for about 30 seconds, and knocked the
temperature down to 105 degrees.
In conclusion, if the high speed on the fans work, you don't have to take those out and go and buy an expensive new fan set. Just stick a 20 amp circuit breaker in the slot, and keep using the fans that you have.
Part no: 782-3154................ Name: Circuit Breaker, 20 Amp; Blade
Note: I take NO responsibility for any damage you do to your vehicle from any information you obtained from this post. Do this at your own risk! I am not a mechanical expert but this is my solution to the overheating problems.
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Over a period of several months, my 2008 Tucson began experiencing a series symptoms, which at the time, I didn't realize were related:
The stereo would occasional freeze up. It would still play, but the volume or channels couldn't be adjusted without restarting the vehicle. The washer fluid motor stopped working. This was a continuous failure.The check airbag light came on and stayed on.
One morning, several months after the first symptom appeared, I went outside to find the hazard lights turning on and off randomly. The car would not start. I had the battery tested. It was drained, but not defective. After putting the charged battery in , the car still would not start. I had it towed to the dealer.
Immediately after the car was taken off the tow truck, it started, the check engine light was off and the washer fluid motor was working. The diagnostic computer found no codes. The dealer cleaned and reattached the ground strap, and replaced the airbag pods as a precaution.
The car ran fine for several months, but then the radio and check airbag light problem started to appear again.
I took it to my regular mechanic this time. He could not find anything wrong, but gave me a new battery to try as a troubleshooting measure.
After a few months, the problems are now starting again.
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Have a 03 Kia Optima with a 2.4L engine with 120K. The car recently started overheating occasionally mainly while stopped in traffic. Both fans are running and as soon as I get rolling, the temp gauge goes down. I've noticed that it only happens while the trans is in gear. if I put it in neutral, the temp will drop to normal.
I replaced the thermostat and radiator cap thinking these may have been contributors. I also replaced the temp sensor because it controls both the gauge & the cooling fan. Both fans operate with the a/c on but the single fan will not come on with a/c off. I tried another pcm from the salvage yard but still get the same operation. My next thought is to install a separate trans cooler to the radiator which is only 2 to 3 years old.
What could be causing this overheating & how can I fix it? When it does over heat, I usually turn the heater on full blast to bring the temp down. Car is in great shape and would like to get it back to normal.
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I have a 2006 Camry and about a month ago the key FOB stopped working. I figured 6 years old it probably needs a new battery. Changed the battery and it started working again for a couple days then stopped again. Tried about 4 different batteries that worked on other cars and they would not work. I try it every time I go to the car, and at first it would work about 1/2 the time, but worked less and less. Until it just wouldn't work. Now it will on rare occasion work again, even tried changing batteries again.
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