IS F (2008-2014) :: Car Started To Lose Power During Nitrous Pass
Jul 26, 2015
Was doing nitrous passes the other day and all of a sudden the car started to lose power. I let off the gas and the rpm's got lower and lower, until I cut the car off. Let the car sit for a bit and tried to restart. Car will turn over but will not start. Threw two odes p0300 random misfire, and p0101 mass or volume air flow circuit range/performance problem. I also smelled slight burning for just a second. I am thinking it has to be MAF or a burned up plug. Has to be air, spark or fuel related. Any of the nitrous guys out there ever run into anything like this? Want to eliminate the small things first. Hoping there isn't a larger issue.
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Coming home from the coast last night, my car started to hiccup and lose power. I had to pull over to the side of the road as no matter how much throttle I applied the car kept losing speed. The car was acting like it wasn't getting any fuel. Once stopped on the side of the road I revved the engine for about a minute and it picked back up. I drove the remaining forty miles home without further incident. Went out today to drive to the car and my car won't start. It will turn over, but will not start... again feels like it's not getting any fuel.
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I have a 2011 Mazda 2, 1.5L w/automatic trans. The car only has 1800 miles on it. The other day i was driving it when the car started to lose power and then stalled out. I coasted to a stop. When I tried to restart the car it idled roughly and only in the 200-300rpm range. When I put in gear it would stall out. I let it sit for about 15 minutes and then was able to restart the car with no issue. Since then I put on another 40 miles with no problem.
Before the car stalled I had driven it for about 30 miles with the first 15 miles on the interstate. It was 100+ degrees outside and I was running the air. I have taken the car to the Mazda dealer but I am concerned that they will not be able to locate the problem since now the car seems to be running fine. What could be causing this problem?
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I have a 2001 F350, 7.3. My service engine light came on and immediately the truck started to run rough and lose some power. I've checked the under the cover connections and they were both connected, I replaced the cam position sensor and I still have the same problem. The worse part of the hold thing is that there are no codes stored so I'm flying bind. Where to go next.
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I have a 06 sonata v6 with 120k. Today while driving the car started to lose power then the lights on the dash board flickered radio went nuts and the car lost all power. What could be causing this? Moved battery a little bit and got power back but then started driving and it did the same thing. I did have the heater on 2. You can feel it lose power while accelerating.
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My 1999 F250 V10 has started to lose power off and on. It will run fine then when I stop at a light or sign, then when I take off it runs like I pulling something heavy. If I stop again it goes back to normal sometimes. 161000 miles. No check engine light is on. Motor idles perfect and sounds great. I don't know anything about motors...
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Very loud timing chain noise in my Mitsubishi 2.6 engine. It has 105k miles on it. I ordered a new complete timing chain kit and oil pump from an online autoparts store. The parts arrived here and scheduled an appointment to have those parts put in today. While driving the van to the repair shop, it broke down about 4 miles from my house. I started to lose power on the highway then a loud screeching noise, similar sound to a belt going bad or slipping. The temp gauge started to climb rapidly. I immediately shut off the van and pulled over. It was towed back home and wouldn't restart. Battery was weak. I charged the battery for three hours and the van started again. This time it runs incredibly rough. The whole van shakes badly when in gear (also the loud timing chain noise). I also noticed an oil leak on the ground on the passenger side, in the area of the timing chain/oil pump area.
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Went to a road course for the first time on Sunday. After about 10 laps the car started smoking bad from the exhaust. The smoke was thick and white. There were professional drivers present (driving school) as well as a lexus service manager there looking at the car after the run. The smoke was thick but without that sweet smell of coolant. This was the hardest the car has ever been run but also maintained normal oil and coolant temperatures. After a bit of resting the smoke cleared up and never came back, my drive home was 2 hours long and car still seems ok. Engine sounds good, oil very clean, what could it have been? I have no cats so its going to be more obvious than normal.
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I notice that when I pull the turnsignal switch, the "flash-to-pass" lights are considerably brighter than when I lock the switch forward for regular hi-beam. Questions:
1) does it hurt anything if you drive for a few minutes manually holding the switch towards you?
2) is there an easy wiring mod. to make the locked-on hi beams extra bright like the passing lights?
Why buy bulb upgrades if the stock ones are capable of xtra brightness? (I drive through a remote area daily in the dark that is rich with deer, and I am usually the only vehicle.)
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I recently did the NAV/DVD bypass. It worked fine and still does. Although the check engine and check VSC warning came on eventually, I reset them and did not recur and all is fine with the bypass not activated. After about several days or a week later I tried the CD player and the audio started cutting out as well as no audio from the DVD. All CDs and DVDs worked before. AM/FM/SAT/NAV audio works fine. But DVD/CD has no audio.
I found that DVD/CD audio go through the optical S/PDIF (spdif) cable. I checked it behind the unit and it looks fine, undamaged, not bent. I have not checked it on the amp side yet. Also I do not know if there's anything in between.
What the S/PDIF cable line consists of?
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My coolant was right below the low mark (it was right above 1k miles ago so it has a slight leak, but haven't checked the bottom core yet, most likely its leaking there?) so overnight it sat and in the morning ive filled it to the high mark and upon starting and warming up the engine the coolant went back to right below low. It doesn't look like its leaking at least not anywhere that fast, is this normal? I gotta check later again while car warmed up etc to check level, but how can the coolant go from being at the high mark to right below the low mark?
Regardless the radiator had previously been repaird by the lexus dealership for leaks, where it should've been replaced. Luckily lexus said they will take a look and replace, but Id rather not go through the dealership.
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I have a 2014 F150 ecoboost with a 3 inch lift and 33 inch tires. It seems that in every gear minus 6th that when I shift it shifts to normal RPMs then the truck sort of bogs down, losing 300 or so RPM, then keeps going like nothing ever happened. There are 58,XXX miles on the vehicle. I have taken it to Ford multiple times, now they are saying I probably need an aftermarket tuner to take care of the issue because of the bigger tires.
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I have a 2002 sienna that will lose power to radio, air conditioner, power windows, surges when going down the road. So far it only last for a little while. And for a while now there has been times y…
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Problem started 2 days ago, driving around and my truck would stumble and lose power. Give it gas, won't rev up but it cleared and ran fine for a mile or so then it comes back (off and on all the way home). Check engine light didn't come on the first few times, came on a couple times on the way home (maybe 4 mile trip) but goes off when the truck runs fine. Thinking it was maybe the fuel pump (got 140K on the stocker). Talked to a few friends, some thought it was algae build up in the tank that was clogging the filter on the pump, underhood filter changed a couple hundred miles ago. Looked fine with slight brown build up at bottom of bowl when I replaced it.
Ran it around yesterday with a friend of mine and his scan tool hooked up, acted up once, check engine came on for a few seconds and shutoff. No code and for some reason we couldn't get it to live data while driving. I dumped in an algae eater yesterday and left the truck overnight since I had to work. Got home this morning to run her around the block to circulate the eater. Truck started and idled fine, went to pull out and she won't rev up, pumped the gas and NOTHING! Check engine light is on now but don't have a scan tool handy to read it. I heard the truck will store the code?
What this problem might be? What's a good scan tool for our trucks that can live data as well? CPS is good and already did the UVCH mod.
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I've got an E99 powerstroke. Recently it's been getting hard to steer, if not impossible. When I'm parked i can't turn the wheel and it gets better if i Rev the engine up, driving is usually ok and going around corners. It's just low speed, low rpm that it won't.
Also every once in a while when braking it feels like i lose all power brakes. The pedal goes to the floor and the brakes let go, then i can feel the pedal pump back up and i get a good feeling brake pedal again that actually stops well. All this happens within about a seconds time. But the steering is by far the worst.
I just did the power steering flush with atf and it didn't work. I'm thinking i need a new power steering pump, but want to ask here first to make sure. The truck has 290,000 on it, and it never has been replaced to my knowledge. I bought the truck with 147,000 however so it may have been done before that.
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I just wanted to share with you all a cautionary tale about belt tensioners and idler pulleys. I am now a firm believer in installing the aforementioned items when you replace your drive belt. 15000 miles ago I replaced the drive belt and didn't heed the warning of some here on the forum.
For the last month or two I have noticed what sounded like road noise which I dismissed because I had just had new tires installed that had a more aggressive tread pattern than my previous tires, I also noted that the ECT had been a bit higher than normal, like running in the high 190's to low 200's on average.
Well while driving today I get the alternator warning light and lose power steering and soon after the brakes got stiff, this was followed by ever increasing ECT which got to 242* before I could get it off the road and shut down. It is too early to tell if the noises and the ECT temp rise were the result of this tensioner going out...
For what its worth the only tools required were a 10MM end wrench and a bit of skin to get the job done.
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I have a 99 F 250 7.3. It runs fine at idle even for a long time. When I drive around the block a couple of times it will start chugging and lose power and shut off. I have been mixing fryer oil with the diesel. I changed the fuel filter, oil change, crank sensor and fuel pump. I added 15 gallons of diesel and diesel treatment. Pulled fuel filter and bowel is full I'm not sure where to look next.
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I picked up a 2003 6.0 awhile back went ahead and did studs,gaskets, delete. Was driving it and seemed to lose power, started coughing and carrying on blowing bluish white smoke then shut off. Ended up hydrlocking #5, Oring on injector was tore when took out. Put all back together, ran horrible, did a balance test with AE, showed #3 injector, replaced, ran horrible, did AE dropped #1 injector. So in process of replacing the rest of the injectors. Just wondering why it is or was dropping them 1 at a time. Ficm was showing 47.6 to 48.6 volts, could that be it?????
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My 93 sl2 has lost power and is running hot. Would a fuel filter do this or I think cat convert or egr valve.
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My fiance is having issues with her car. It seems under acceleration to buck and lose power. I know more about 1.8t's but hers is the v6.
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i have an 04 f-150 with a 5.4 motor. about 2000 miles ago the power steering pump started to whine really loud. I sucked out the power steering fluid and started it up and the fluid that back into the tank looked like it was gritty and rusty. I replaced it out a few times and no change. I then did the job of replacing the power steering pump which was about a 5 hour job.
It was quiet for about 5 miles and the new one started whining. Every week I have been sucking out the old fluid and replacing it and it still seems to be gritty. What could I do to quiet it down? the steering works perfect btw. I am looking at selling this truck and buying an 09 or newer ford and want to quiet it down before selling it. The truck has 88,000 miles on it and i am the original owner.
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