Headers will probably be the next mod that I do to my F, I have read a good bit about them on here, but no one really says anything about how they are doing long term ( any issues from heat on engine bay plastics after years of use) or how the coating holds up after years of use as track or DD or just anything else that seems to be an issue over time after being installed.
View 14 RepliesPPE Engineering has been getting lot's of inquires from us ISF owners about the feasibility of making an Equal Length Header for the ISF similar to the one they make for the RCF. Since I am a past customer, live nearby, have another vehicle and am a pretty nice guy they called and asked if I might be interested in having my car test fit for Equal Length Headers.
While discussing this with them, I suggested that if modified RCF Headers wouldn't fit, maybe they could accomplish the equal length task by using long tubes. Well, it seems that RCF headers will in fact fit in an ISF, and the headers they built for me were also Long Tube. How sweet is that? But, the EL, LT headers must be used with the PPE Exhaust due to the exit point of the collector.
I went for Dyno testing yesterday, and it appears I lost 7HP at the top end and gained only 1.5 lb ft of torque at the high end. I also gained grunt at the bottom. My Seat of the Pants tells me the car is faster.
I don't know why it ran out of breath at the high end. Nothing else has changed.
PPE Headers
PPE Dual Mode Exhaust - With HiFlow Cats
Takeda Intake
As far as sound goes, in the cabin with the exhaust open, the drone remains in the same area (between 1900 and 2100 RPM) but is much lower in volume. I can now carry on a phone conversion (with bluetooth hands free) with the exhaust in the open position. The volume level does increase, however, when under acceleration through that RPM range.
Now the ISF does not have a lumpy engine by any means, but it idle with the old headers, the sound (both inside and outside the car) had a sort of lumpy growling quality to it. The sound is now very smooth, again inside and outside. The harmonics seemed to have changed.
Edit - My wheels and tires have changed. I'm now running RCF wheels with larger 295 vs 285 rears, so wheel weight is up a bit!
i cant find the dyno post but didnt the isf make more power with headers and stock exhaust?
View 6 RepliesDeleting the cats from the stock headers ? would there be any power gain or loss ?
View 14 Replieshow much HP is there expected to be with adding high flow cats?
View 14 RepliesI had my local race shop install my new PPE headers and how I have a rubbing and grinding sound while taking right turns. They have had the car for a few extra days and they say they cant seem to find the cause of the problem. It rattles on a pot hole, it grinds on right turns and sometimes vibrates on highway cruise control driving.
View 14 RepliesHad to store prius for 7 or 8 months? Does the hybrid battery need to be disconnected?
View 4 RepliesI have an opportunity to get a high voltage battery from a salvage Prius. I don't need a replacement now but thought having an extra battery would be a good idea. How long can the battery be stored? Maybe switch them out every few months to keep both charged?
View 3 RepliesI got a P0430 code. My fuel trims are over 20% on both banks. A few days back I got a P0174 code but after disconnecting the battery it cleared and hasn't come back. Are these codes related in any way?
I'm a bit confused because I removed both cats and put O2 spacers in on both sides. I never get a P0420 code. Is one of the spacers not working correctly? I sent Toyota an email about the 430 code and they want to know which of the cats were removed - front or back. I didn't even there were front AND back ones! I thought there were just 2 side by side.
When I analyze the O2 readings on Torque they look pretty similar for both banks although I admit I'm not the best person to judge. Both rear O2 sensors are fairly new.
Unfortunately living in the middle of Africa I can't get hold of a smoke machine. I'd love to look for a vacuum leak, as from what I've read about the subject this might well be the cause of my problems.
One mechanic wants to put a new fuel pump in but I'd like to postpone that because it's a pricey item.
I found on internet loads of comment about this error code, but in my case the only bad thing is with fuel consumption - about 9-10 litres (!) for 100 km on motorway. Normaly it should be about 6-8 litres.
The error means: "P1128 is "Long Term Fuel Trim Too Lean". Which means the air/fuel mixture is leaner than the HO2S can compensate for."
Idle is working correctly (i think thats to do with MAF), engine start without any problems and overall car running smooth.
What can cause a bad fuel consumption? Is anything to do with a lambda (O2) sensor or it could be something else?
Do you think it would shorten the life of the hybrid battery if I make a habit of really trying to EV in the last mile of arriving home?
Tonight, I accelerated quite slow after the last stop to stay on battery, but I noticed the battery bars got down to 2.
Got to wondering, if I do this a lot, might it shorten the traction battery life such that it fails at 11 yrs, for example, instead of 14 years?
Have a system lean code popping up. long term fuel trim at idle is 14. No misfire counts. adjusted fuel trim from full rich to lean still no misfire counts. When on test drive and found after accelerating on the freeway soon as i take my foot off the gas pedal long term fuel trim jumps to 29 and multiple cylinder misfires start to occur. I take car off freeway and at stop light can feel misfire and fuel trim still at 29. coast it into the shop and at idle LTFT down to 10-14. Sprayed brake clean all over intake manifold but wasn't able to register any change in fuel trim. Fuel pressure is within spec. Cleaned MAF and Replaced with known good. LTFT still high
View 2 RepliesI've got the dreaded broken exhaust manifold studs on my 2004 F250 V10. I don't drive it much (just 50,000 miles in 10 years) and confess I've ignored the hissing for quite a while. Is there really a permanent fix for these broken studs? Or should I expect to be replacing broken studs every 2 or 3 years?
If there is a permanent fix what is it? Special studs? Special manifold? I want to keep this truck a long time and don't want to be replacing these studs every few years.
I only live 6 miles from work and I've been getting a lot of condensation gunk building up inside the filler cap and around the neck. Is there going to be any long term damage from this? Here is a picture of what I'm getting.
I know it's not coolant because I'm not loosing any and the oil on the dipstick is clean.
Since it got cold I've been taking another route to work that gets me up to 9 miles one way. Also, twice a week I take the long way home that has the engine running for a half hour but I'm still getting build up. In the winter I'm on call a lot and rarely go far from home so taking a two hour trip to really heat things up is probably not going to happen.
ETA. I change my oil every 3000 miles if that makes a difference.
I sometimes pulloff after a minute then Im off, but slowly until the engine temp gets to the middle. I won't go caveman on it until the oil temp is almost in the middle too (never quite gets to the middle for the engine oil temp)
Is this logic right? Lexus guy told me it'll warm up as you go. If it was like zero degrees out then yes Id let it idle for 10-15 minutes.
I have a lx570 2013. I bought Doug Thotley's Longtube Headers. I haven't install yet, But I am about to.
I need to get my self a set of mid pipes that would hook directly my Doug Thorley's LongTube Headers and into the oem cat back.
I looked around it I found this set. Link Below: [URL]
Also, a friend of mine of mine has a LX570 with JBA long Tube Headers (Titanium), He also wants a set of mid pipes to fit directly to his Jba long tube and into his oem cat-back.
I replaced my headers and added slp loud mouth 2 side exit now my truck is throwing every evap code o2 codes and p0010 & p0020, There is 17 codes total. The headers are obx without cats. Also added 80mm bbk throttle body and some brisk racing plugs with hot street coil packs. Truck run with all of that stuff fine but when i did the headers and cat back everything went wrong.
View 9 RepliesI'm looking at an 2009 LS460L with the touring package. I have read that the air suspension has reliability issues. Is this a common problem or just a few isolated cases?
View 10 Replieshow to find a floor jack that is low enough and has a long enough chassis to get to the central jacking points of the IS? I have 2 different models and there is no way they are long enough to reach the identified jack points but still allow for handle movement. Need to change my winter wheels and don't want to use the floor jack on the pinch weld jacking positions. Also don't really want to use the onboard jack....
View 6 RepliesI took control of a new GTI 2014 Wolfsburg last Thursday. I let my Jetta go early and was able to get into the GTI for a steal. Just got it tinted (photo above), already have a Unitronic intake on the way from CBTuning, I have KW V3's all set for installation, Stabila F+R swaybar in the garage, 034 endlinks in the garage, Whiteline W.A.L.K. kit in the garage, an SPM 3" 'track' downpipe currently on order, SPM trans and engine mounts on order, HPA puck in the garage, and am already working out plans for a custom cat-back exhaust. I will be going Stage II Unitronic for both engine and DSG and will be cleaning/tucking the bay a bit.
But first, a problem... On my first long distance drive to lower Delaware on Friday, I began hearing a 'hmm... hmm... hmm...' noise at 65+ MPH as I drove down 95. It go louder the faster I went, so I eased up figuring a tire or wheel was just screwy.
I brought it back to the dealership Friday afternoon and just had it returned today. All four tires had bald/flat spots and the front left had a nasty bubble, all of which they replaced at no cost, feeling that this was the issue and the solution.
However, I took it out tonight, about 2 hours ago, and the noise returned, the same hum at the same speed (65MPH) and up. I Google'd around and found some solutions that it could possibly just be a bad wheel bearing. The car is brand new and as of tonight, I only have 340~ miles on it. Also, the noise is not constant, but rather every other second, 'hmm.... hmm.... hmm....'.
2009 F-150 XLT Super Crew 5.4 engine. The compressor cycles, but too often to get the interior cold. It has always been like this. While still in warranty Ford said it is fine. A good mechanic hooked it up to his machines and it seemed there is a sensor that said discharge temperature was below zero. Not even close. If there is one, where is this sensor? Is there a way to bypass this proble?
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