Is it normal to have variable fan speeds when Ac is on? I understand on WOT Ac deactivates on some cars but when it happens I'm just cruising along coming to a stop, the fan speed increases.
View 1 RepliesSo I noticed this ever since I got my Elantra (2013). When I have Active Eco on, it seems like the AC fan speeds up and slows down a little, sporadically.
View 9 RepliesPerhaps it's always been this way but my trucks A/C fan speed seems to only blow air out on speeds 3 & 4 is this normal? I have a 2011 XLT, 5L but should be the same system no matter what motor.
View 9 RepliesI posted the following issue a year ago about my car, but the problem continues. when my 06 v8 phaeton is cold, there is variable engine rpm's with my foot steady on the gas at low speed and a flat surface. ie 1500 to 1700 to 1500 to 1700 etc. i can hear it feel it but it's subtle. the engine starts easy and runs perfect otherwise.
View 1 RepliesMost of the time my speedometer isn't working. my cruise control works the same way. i've read that it could be the cruise control module or the variable speed relay.
View 1 RepliesAs I pulled into a parking lot last night, my "check VSC" warning message came on. Simultaneously, the Parking Brake light, ABS light, Traction Control, and VSC lights came on. The car did not go into limp mode though, and the car seems to operate as normal (even when going WOT).
View 14 RepliesLS F idle at without the AC on, mine is about 500 rpm, which seems low to me, if AC is on it feels about right 750 to 800 rpm.
View 8 RepliesSo I was driving in a busy part of town today with a lot of stop and go traffic. Then this previous previous generation E class pulled up next to me and started reving it, his exhaust sounds aftermarket. I am the kind of guy that never race or drive fast on the streets, so I just ignore him. Then when it's green he pulled ahead and maintain at 30 mph or so, when I caught up he started reving again. He had his emblems shaved so I cant tell which model it was
So I was like what the hell...if he is a E350 or E500 he stands no chance, and if he is a E55 AMG the worse case it will be a close match. Different story if he is a E63, but it didnt sound like one. Since I was cruising in AUTO before, I must be at 5th or 6th. So I went into Manual, press the sport button and start downshifting......it took forever.....I was literally just waiting for it to go to 2nd before slamming on the gas...since the street in front of us is running out of room and will reach another red soon. Before I could get to 2nd, he already took off after cruising with me for a bit. When I finally got to 2nd and the engine growl started, I flew past him and let him hear the borla but we already hit the red...he turned right. I just thought I missed the fun.....
It was a hot day in LA...so the engine oil is well warmed up. And since we have so many gears, I often times find downshift sluggish and esp it cant skip gears..it has to go in sequentially. I have little to complain about the upshifts, but downshift..am I missing something here? How to speed up the downshift?I think dual clutch is way faster in both up and down....
Under acceleration when close to the limit of adhesion during high speed long sweeping turns I was noticing an oil smell last year. I can't say if it was R, L or both turning directions since its been a full winter since I have driven the car.
I'm using Mobile 1 5w30, a stock air box and I have headers. I'm also running 305 PSS tires, and a pretty well modified suspension. I have no facts to back this up but I am assuming because of my setup that I can get a little more lateral acceleration then most.
I have zero oil consumption, no leaks and good test results from Blackstone. My only thought is that I am pushing a little oil in to the crank case breathers during this hard cornering.
So I was at a track event and pushing 150 mph and heard this terrible sound. I look in rear view mirror and saw something black flying through the air. I thought it was my carbon fiber diffuser but turned out to be this.
View 12 RepliesWhile braking at very low spreads (towards the end of a stop), I get squeaking with light pressure braking. Then, yesterday it finally drove me insane. It was a lot louder than normal. Only thing different was that it was alot hotter than usual. It would squeak, as I lift off the brake lightly (while still applying pressure) to inch the car forward in traffic. I had always noticed a faint squeaking, but its now louder than what I grew accustomed to.
The dealership who installed my brakes 9800 miles ago, says there was a glazing, And they can't fix it (polish), because it's drilled rotors.
It's like a tire grinding or shuffling at low parking lot speed, hard right or left turn, more evident when slowly braking during the turn. Dealership claims the negative camber contributes to this phenomenon and that nothing can be done about it.
I realize we have about a 1.5-degree negative camber in 2011-and on IS-F (I have no mods and still running with stock Potenza RE-050s), perhaps this contributes to the feel of the tires at parking speeds.
While I was on my way to the Summit Point for a track weekend last month a CHECK SYSTEM warning light came on. I checked the code at the first Advance Auto I came across and found the codes "c0210 ABS Right Rear Speed Sensor CURRENT" and "c0215 ABS Left Rear Speed Sensor CURRENT". With the check system light on I couldn't use cruise control. I was worried that I didn't have rear ABS function, but after performing a few high speed threshold braking tests everything felt stable...so I continued and did a full 8 track sessions over the next 2 days.
The check system light came on within 40 miles of mounting new aftermarket wheels and tires. The check system light would usually go away after the car had sat for a day, but would come back on after 10-20 miles of driving.
My tags have just expired and I need to pass emissions now. I put my stock rear wheels back on so that I can avoid the codes and pass the Maryland OBDII emissions check. Everything was fine, but the check system light just came on for the first time with the stock rear wheels mounted (and before I could pass emissions)...though it took 150+ miles of driving before the check system light came on.
I would love to avoid purchasing new speed sensors, which seem to run $150+ each.
A quick internet search showed one Toyota SUV owner mostly fixed the problem by removing and cleaning the speed sensors and then dielectric greasing the connectors and coating the outside with silicon.
Just like the tittle says. My 2011 ISF with 56k miles on it is making a Clunking noise when pulling out of a parking spot or just anytime I fully steer to the left side and begin to move. If I try it in reverse it doesn't matter if I turn the steering wheel fully to left or right it makes the same noise as I begin to move at slow speed. It almost feels like something is pushing the front wheels out. During normal driving I don't feel anything at all, just as steady as solid the car can be.
Is there any common issues with ISF with premature wear of ball joints, cv joint, sway bar bushings or hub bearing?
Just curious. Are my RPM's running high? Currently I'm running 3000 rpm's at 76 mph. Is that high? Someone told me it was. (My speedometer shows I'm running 80mph but both my gps show 76mph, stock tires, 1.8T). Pretty sure I'm in range.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 Saturn sl2 (automatic 85,000 miles) and recently, I can feel the momentum of the car stop for a split second. The hesitation isn't occurring when the transmission is shifting between gears but, when I'm just at a normal speed or accelerating. The fluid is new and at the right level and there's no change in the RPMs (it doesn't rev up or drop like I would expect) and no weird noises.
This is my fourth Saturn SL and I love em but, I have a feeling that this car has had a more interesting life that the carfax printout indicated. Is carfax reliable?
When I rev the engine it momentarily goes down to below normal idling speed (sometimes it completely shuts off)then goes up to normal idle. I have found that if I press the throttle too hard before it recovers it always shuts off.
View 1 RepliesIts peak summer here and temperatures are around 50c. Recently I am experiencing a strange AC behavior! While driving, AC is blowing very cold air but while stationary air get little less cold and it feels sweaty... Also accelerating car makes AC more cold than cruising on normal speed...
I am wondering what it could be.... I had golf IV and never experienced it even it even parked under 50c summer afternoon.... Two weeks back, they have replaced my AC compressor valve... It could be a fan?
The idle speed is higher than normal, about 800-900 RPM. Whenever I stop for the traffic light, the engine will behave as if someone is pressing the gas pedal intermittently. It has new spark plug wires and coil.
View 8 RepliesMy 03 gti vr6 has issues... This only happens sometimes but if I am on the freeway even just at normal speed sometimes the motor loses power not electrical just the motor it will die then kinda sputter its way back to life. I may add that I have APR software installed.
View 2 RepliesSo I just bought a 2002 Elantra with 72k on the clock (legitimate) and I'm having issues where the car will start fine in the morning and idle normally, however, say I come back to go somewhere else about two hours later, when I start it the car will rev up to 3k and stay there for about 3 seconds and jump down to normal idle speed. What's the issue?
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