Working on a 1998 intrepid got the codes po134 po171 po154 and got all the codes taking care of except 1 po134 which it says its a oxy sensor just took it for a test drive after about 10miles it starts spewing black smoke and trying to stall out, then it clears right up after that.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 Jeep Liberty Sport 4x4. 150,000 miles. I had the ignition coil changed on cylinder #5 last weekend and then this weekend it started spewing black smoke out the tailpipe. Dealer says cylinder #2 is misfiring and he would have to replace the cylinder head. The main issue is that the part is backordered for an indefinite amount of time so I have no way to know if or when it could be fixed. If it could be fixed there wold be no guarantee it would work for much longer. It is obviously cheaper to repair the car than get a new one, but at some point the is the law of diminishing returns...
View 12 RepliesI have a 98 Dodge Intrepid and it smokes when I pull out. I was told it may be the valve seals. Is this true? Could it be the rings? It doesnt seem to smoke when I go up hills just when I pull out.. Is there an easy fix?
What are some problems I can expect with this car? I have 107,000 miles and am wondering when can I expect the timing belt to fail? What are some things I may have to fix?
I recently had a problem with my car jerking slightly on highway, and I think I've resolved this by replacing the spark plugs. It does still do it, but maybe only one or two jerks per 100 miles. It used to be one or two jerks every 30 seconds. So I think I've found at least part of the source of the jerk. I could possibly purchase new spark plug caps (wires) and hopefully that would put that problem to rest.
Dodge Intrepid ES
3.2L V6
126,000 Miles
So my car has white smoke coming from the exhaust. On start up, on warm up, on hot idle, and on cold idle. The coolant in the reservoir is quite skanky looking and I've been meaning to flush it but haven't gotten around to it. But I've done quite a lot of research lately and also just have my own personal experience (employed as a mechanic at a small engines shop for quite some time.) and I've found the most common answer would be a head gasket problem, or even more serious, a cracked block, causing coolant in small amounts to leak into the cylinders. I figured that would be the answer I would find but I like to do some research before I go prodding at my car.
The exhaust is white, not grey, not blue, not black. A nice pure white color, and obviously comes out thicker and in larger amounts when you give it some gas. Also it smells sweet. Another clue it could be coolant.
Another thing that made me worry was when I replaced the old spark plugs, they looked like they were being run in a really lean engine. Barely any carbon tracks on them, almost clean looking. Which worries me. It could be suggesting that I COULD be burning water (coolant) in my engine. The coolant level in the reservoir does go down but at a pretty small amount.
2002 Ford Ranger edge 3.0 flex ... Truck was running fine and giving me no issues. I woke for work the other day and went to get coffee and truck wouldnt start. I could hear fuel pump running and knew it wasnt that, it was acting flooded. So today I pulled fuse from fuel pump relay, and got it to start. Put the fuse back in and ran to gas station. On the way to the gas station it started running really rough, very low and rough idle, trying to stall out. I noticed it had black smoke coming from exhaust. I got it home, and got it to start barely, and it has the same very low and rough idle, but my oil gauge was going crazy, flickering back and forth all crazy, and the idol is terribly rough and eventually stalls out. Earlier today I did put new spark plugs in it, but not sure that has anything to do with the issue. I also hooked it up to a computer and it isnt throwing any codes.
View 13 RepliesI have a 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan and I am having an issue with it running a touch rich and not getting the gas mileage it should. Here we go, in March the van started to start hard and blow black smoke out of the exhaust. After a 120 mile drive back home, one morning it would not start. I pulled to a mechanic who went out and started it without a problem, he said it was flooded out and probably needed to change plugs and wires. I took it home and changed the wires and plugs. Much to my surprise, no change. The van started hard and then ran really rough with no power for a while and was polluting the air with black smoke. The average mileage was around 12 mpg. I went to the next step and changed the coil pack. No change. Finally took it in and the mechanic changed the O2 sensor and the cat converter. The can runs better but still gets around 16 mpg and still blows a small amount of black smoke. Oh yeah, the air filter is clear and there are no trouble codes either. I am thinking it could be a something with the fuel delivery system maybe?
View 1 RepliesThere's a black form around the end of my minivan tail pipe. This form is created by smoke, I can have it on my finger if I touch it (like BBQ ashes), is this normal or my minivan running rich? I don't see any black smoke coming out of the tail pipe as it is driving.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2000 Dodge Caravan SE 3.3L. The timing chain recently broke. So I replaced the timing set, cover, water pump, camshaft sensor, and oil pan. The timing is all aligned. It starts right up, but then stalls. Unplugged the front three spark plugs to see if one of those were the problem, and then it ran better and didn't stall out.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 f250 i purchased a month ago. Its been cold in Denver this last month which is why I didn't mind it much. But now that its been in the 70s im concerned. Its always the first start up that it acts up. I go to turn the truck on and it starts idling for only a sec or two, then shuts off. I crank it about 3-4 times before it actually comes on and stays on. There is black smoke not white smoke once it starts to idle. Once idling it stays on and drives the way it should. If i try to start the truck again it will do so with out hesitation. I just did a tune up at grease monkey including fuel filters and oil filter. again its the first start up always.
View 1 RepliesYesterday my car ran fine. Today it started running rough when my wife drove it. When I started it to see what was going on it ran very rough. I gave it a little gas and black smoke came out of the tail pipe and now it will not start. I can hear the fuel pump running when I turn the car on. I have spare at least at the coil pack to the wires. The check engine light is on but I don't have a tool to read it and I can't start it to go get it read.
View 11 Replies1988 4.0 - noticed fuel mileage going down and an occasional stumble for a while but now I am getting some black smoke more when I let off the throttle than when I going down the road if I rev the truck get all kind of black soot all over the floor otherwise runs fine idles fine the iac has been replaced air filter replaced check the fuel pressure regulator for any gas leaking into the vacuum line and its clean.
View 14 RepliesI have a 1988 Dodge pickup 1500 with a 5,9 gas engine. It used to pop right over all the time. Now, in the morning, I have to crank it forever until it starts, and if it sits for 1 hour or more, same thing (have to crank for a long time). It is my understanding there is a valve called a one day valve that holds pressure on the gas line. Is it possible this valve is not working properly? And if so, do I have to replace fuel pump to fix problem? once started it starts up with no problem until it sits for hour or more then hard to start.
View 15 RepliesI've been told by friends driving behind me that every time I accelerate I emit a plume of black smoke followed by a stream of black colored "water". I checked today by having the wife rev the engine to 4.5k...sure enough, black water shoots out of my exhaust, probably 3 oz. I also see a black puff of smoke which I assume is more normal than the water. Is this commonplace ?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2002 dodge intrepid that wont crank over sometimes unless I take the key and keep moving from the start position to the off position ,then it finally engages. I have replaced the battery, but I thought if it was a starter issue, it would click more than once.
View 1 RepliesI backed out of the drive way with My 96 Dodge Intrepid yesterday and when I put it in drive I noticed the CEL came was on. Seemed like it came on with in a few seconds of driving forward. I was driving slow as that is what is called for in my neighborhood and all seemed ok. About 2 minutes later when I was going about 40 I noticed the Tach was at about 3k. I seems it will not shift into 3rd. I moved the shift lever several times and it did not seem to impact anything. I immediately drove home and used my other car to go to my appointment. It did seem to shift fine other than that.It never got to warm so I did not check the fluid but I did check it a few days earlier and it was ok. We had snow the previous day and I would have noticed any leaks on the drive way, which I did look for, and did not find any.
I know I need to get the CEL read. I need to drive about 10 miles to get somewhere to do that. Is there anything else I can check or try before hand? My guess is it is an electrical issue as it happened fast with out any warning. I don't have a lot of experience with transmissions but my guess is it is a solenoid not working. It may be fried or it is not getting a signal. Possibly VSS or something in the powertrain module or what every they call it in Chrysler world?
I have 2004 Dodge Intrepid 3.5L with 153K miles. For the past tow months I am getting oil in the radiator but NO antifreeze in the oil. Oil level gets low but the transmission fluid is fine. No coolant smoke, No Oil smoke, Have been draining coolant, Passed emission 3-months ago, Gas mileage is fine @ 23MPG. I have to add about quart a month (1000?-miles). I have been using Mobile-1 synthetic since bought the car at 108K. Currently 153K miles on the engine. Two years ago water pump and timing belt was replaced. If it is the head gasket then why oil is fine and no coolant in the oil. It is Not transmission Fluid either.
View 7 RepliesI have a 1997 Dodge Intrepid automatic v6. My battery light is lightup on the dash board so I figured my battery was dying due to loss of power in the vehicle, or the alternator going out. I took off the negative wire to the battery and the car continued to run, as Ive been told that by doing this, if the car dies then the alternator is bad. I checked the battery and it reads 14 volts, so I believe the battery is good? I do have a sound system in the car and have a 1500 watt amp connected, the previous owners also had a stereo system and however they rigged there's was totally a mess as the wires were all, just a mess. As of today, the car has died, and when we jumped it it did start up, but was not able to keep power, the dash lights would not come on, basically anything that had to do with electric stuff was not working? I did just get a tune up and oil change, new spark plugs and wires, and also it has been over heating.....
View 1 RepliesHere is the history of the car. 1997 Dodge Intrepid, 3.3L V6, close to 200k miles. Bought used 8 years ago.
Engine was replaced by previous owner due to front end accident at 90k (about, memory is fuzz on the full miles). Previous owner was a sales lady and had a repair log. Kept car running like a coo-coo clock since work paid for the maintenance. Her insurance paid for the repair then her work would not continue to pay for upkeep, due to accident. Since I bought the car, I kept in the same frame of mind of maintenance and upkeep.
- Oil is changed regularly and on time (no burning or loss, still filled to levels with synthetic high mileage oil) (Color - maple syrup amber, due to be changed in 500 or so miles)
- Water pump changed 3 months ago (no oil in the res. tank)
- Alt. changed in 2006 (30 - 35k miles ago)
- Ignition Coil and spark plug wires in 2006 (30 - 35k miles ago)
- Battery replaced in 2007 with a new one)
- Spark plugs last Feb. (about 10k miles ago - Look semi clean and are all gaped still to the manual specs) as well as the 2 belts on the engine.
(Timing chain same age as the replaced engine at 90k)
- All the instrument panel lights work, as well as head, turn signals, interior and tail.
Has for a long time (4 years or so), has an engine light on for an O2 sensor (Code 0134 and the meter I have).
The exhaust system had disconnected from the Catalytic Converter (engine side) last winter (9 months or so ago) due to weathering (clamps rusted off and pipes separated). Recently I repaired this 2 weeks ago (noting heavy black soot in the pipes and around the area on the underside). Once replaced had a cloud of soot when I floor the gas hard while driving.
Yesterday while driving after 10 mins from home while accelerating I noticed a loss of power (slowing down) instinct was to press the gas, did so, and slowed down even more. Car drifted to a stop, engine power was also gone (power steering was gone also). When this happened, there was No banging, or clunks, or loud sounds, or overtly ominous clouds of smoke. Engine turned off (while costing to a stop the engine acted as if out of gas - hence no power steering). Got a tow home.
The starter turns the engine over with no clatter, banging, or clunks. No backfires or "Coughing". Same sound as of before, but won't catch and run under own power. (Still acts like no gas, but has half a tank) (battery still has a full charge - spark plugs still spark - took one out of engine while still connected to spark plug cable grounded to engine for testing. No overtly heavy gas smell or residue on plug or during test).
My friend who assisted in the exhaust repair says that it is not the Catalytic Converter being clogged (I believe it is). His suggestion is a faulty sensor somewhere else, maybe cam/crank sensor, maybe MAP sensor, maybe ignition switch, bad EGR or even a bad ASD relay. Don't want to be buying parts to no end on this, need other input to narrow down a direction.
I have a 1999 Dodge Intrepid 2.7 L DOHC that continues to run hot. I have replaced the thermostat, fans, relief value and have done a radiator flush.
After I have had these things done the car does fine for about a week then back to the same old crap. I can drive about 40 miles in the morning time nothing happens. In the afternoon about 20 miles then the temp gauge starts rising so I turn on my heater for about 5 minutes till it goes down then turn the ac back on for the next 20 miles home and does fine.
If I turn the car off for about 10 minutes or less then crank it back up the temp gauge jumps way up there I sit and let it idle till it goes back down on its own without the heater.
I recieved a smog check and I fail one small problem. but what do this code stands for PO441?
View 1 RepliesMy 01 Dodge Intrepid has a year old rebuilt engine and a yr. old master computer. Past two months, just dies while driving. Try to start and just turns over and over and over. Once it sits for two days, it will start right up first try. Twice it has died at the same spot on the highway entrance ramp! Seems like a clogged fuel filter but shop says there is plenty of fuel and good pressure. They think it is the computer and needs to be "flashed" at a dealer. I smell oil burning on the engine and the oil light keeps coming on but the oil was just changed and is still full and clean? (The first time it went in for this problem the guy just replaced a relay--doesn't show any codes).
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