Jeep - Cherokee :: 1996 - Stopped Running While Going Uphill?
Aug 23, 2011
I have 1996 grand Cherokee with 190,000 miles on it. A few weeks ago it stopped running while going up hill.It restarted after 15 minutes and ran for 2 minutes and it did that for few times till I decided to get it towed. Then my mechanic looked on it a few times and finally called me that it would run in second gear and he did not know what is exactly wrong with it. It could be driven home in 2nd gear without any issues.
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My 96 cherokee 4.o is having trouble. the motor is cranking but will not stay running unless i am pouring gas directly into the butterfly valve. it runs great while i am pouring gas into it, but it sputters out and dies once i stop. i checked to pressure in the fuel rail and gas will come out of the valve however the pressure gauge doesn't have any response. it feels like the fuel pump.
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I have had no problems out of my jeep except my check engine light came on and it was a bad 02 Sensor and I was told I didn't need to replace it. Well I was driving down the highway and all of a sudden my jeep died. The radio cut off my air and I put it in neutral and I tried to start it and it would not crank. I coasted in a drive way and it cranked and them died. Now it acts like it wants to start but it wont. Replaced the fuel filter. I am getting fuel to the fuel rail. It will not start with starter fluid. I took the crank sensor off and it replaced it and it still wouldn't crank. My fuel pump makes a whinning sound. My lights come on..My windshield wipers won't. My radio doesn't work and the inside lights well I couldn't get them to go off before I before my vehicle died on me, about 3 weeks before I just took the bulbs out. Would the 02 sensor make it not start?
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Just bought a 1996 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4.0 Auto trans. The other morning my jeep wouldn't start. Power everything works, lights work, back up lights work. Starter had been sluggish so I had it tested. Tested fine. Hook the starter back up and when I attach battery it turns over and runs constantly.
I removed the ignition wire from the starter solenoid and hooked it back up and the same thing happened. So I deduced the starter solenoid was stuck. Bought a new starter and replaced my old. Old starter was tested at autozone and it worked properly there (didn't run without ignition).
I just bought the new starter anyway. Hook up battery and same thing happens--starter turns over. How would just the cable from the battery be able to turn the starter over if it is all good?
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I have a 96 grand Cherokee Laredo, and the other day it just wouldn't start. The jeep will not turn over, so i started checking some things out and determined that it was not getting a spark. Since i replaced the distributor cap recently i figured it had to be the ignition coil, so i replaced that. Still no go, i tested to see if the ignition coil was getting a spark by using an ohm meter, and nothing.
So something is preventing the spark even getting that far. I do not know much about vehicles, and i have to think it is something in the electrical system (like a chip or something),possibly security system, or NSS.
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1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo... A week or so ago we started the Jeep up and let it warm up before leaving for work. When we put it into reverse it promptly stalled. It would then crank but not turn over. After letting it sit for a couple hours it then started fine and has run fine since. Today just a few minutes ago I started the Jeep and drove it to the front of my complex to drop my son off to the bus, after getting back into it I went to put it in reverse and it stalled. Once again it cranks but won't turn over. We initially had thought fuel line freeze the first time, but this time it seems odd having been able to drive it a short distance first..
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I have a 96 Jeep Cherokee, 2wd, 4 cylinder, manual transmission, I have had some work done on it. Recently, I had the clutch redone, then I had a tune-up and the motor mounts replaced.
After the motor mounts were done, I was unable to get the vehicle into gear. My mechanic adjusted the clutch pedal and it was running as long as I did not put it into reverse. I had driven it about 3 miles from my house, parked it.
Came out to start it a couple of hours later and it would not turn over. It wanted to start but no engagement. I had to have it towed to my house where my mechanic could check it out.
Since that time, we have determined that it is not the fuel pump, we changed out the fuel injectors, replaced the coil, replaced the crankshaft sensor and it is still doing the same thing. Have gone through all the suggested remedies.
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I have a 1996 Jeep Cherokee Sport with 153K miles. I've been on a maintenance kick lately and I'm wondering, is it reasonable to start replacing sensors before they go bad? I've replaced both oxygen sensors over the last few years but what about the others, MAPS, TPS, crankshaft position sensor, etc? The Jeep is running great but I've been driving a lot more for work and just want to keep it that way.
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(1996 Jeep V8) Dealer lets me take a Jeep home to take it to my mechanic early the next day. First time I looked at it, it coughed a bit of blue smoke, then cleared up. There's 141K on the car. Called around, the general consensus seems to be possible valve guides.
In checking it out last night noticed it was very low on oil. I added a quart and drove it around for awhile. Didn't think to check for any emissions plus I was driving around by myself. This morning I had my wife start it while I stood behind to check for the first-thing smoke. It was there, but also would give a bit of smoke when revved up.
A single bit of smoke first thing on startup doesn't seem that bad, but every time I accelerate is a concern. Plus, does that make sense? Very little smoking when level is low? Should I be suspicious?
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I have a 1996 Jeep Cherokee (sport, six cylinder, 4WD) that won't start occasionally. 98% of the time, it starts up without problem. When it doesn't work the scenario is: put the key in, dash lights up, begin to turn the ignition switch, and suddenly the whole system looses power - no lights on he dash and of course, no cranking of the engine. If I try again immediately, I either get nothing or maybe power until I start to turn the key. If I wait ~5 minutes and try again, it fires right up. This has happened in various weather conditions.
Another problem that might be related is that about 40% of the time, it cranks but won't start in PARK. If I switch to NEUTRAL and try again, it fires right up.
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1996 Grand Cherokee 4.0 liter, 156000 miles, Auto trans, It dies while driving. RPMs drop and it dies. Then starts right back up.
These things have already been replaced
cam shaft sensorcrank shaft positioning sensorfuel filterPlugs/Wires/Distributor Cap
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1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4L
Problem "Stalls at idle and at hwy speed" sometimes starts right up and sometime will not start. Sometimes it will lose acceleration but engine will still be running and you can punch the gas and it will go again.
It has been in the shop for most of the last 2 months. Driven in 3 times and hauled in twice.
Low mileage 70,000 - has been great until now - serviced regularly.
Did get new fuel pump only about 10,000 miles ago do to starting problem but in that case it just did not start.
Independent shop replaced distributor cap, rotor, coil, fuel filter. No codes and couldn't duplicate problem.
Jeep dealer replaced fuel pump (they said wiring problem), O2 sensor, engine module no help, they asked us to pick up car because it ran fine. It stalled within 2 miles of shop.
We replaced gas cap just in case.
Limped back to shop to replace crank sensor as it was suggested several places. Ran fine for about 45 minutes then back to old tricks. Relays have been checked. Still at shop trying to trace problem. At least nobody is saying they can't duplicate problem as it now stalls all the time.
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My 1996 Jeep Cherokee A/C system pushes cold air but out of the defroster vents not the A/C vents. Why this is happening? I suspect it is the slide switches for the A/C system but I am not sure and do not want to take the dash apart before I have some confirmation. I have checked the vacuum hoses with the heater/A/C system and they seem fine.
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My 1996 jeep cherokee is having a problem with the lights when I pull the plunger switch my dashboard blinker lights and high beam light come on but none of my outside lights come on besides my tail lights.
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The problem is that my headlights on my 1996 Cherokee Jeep XJ switch off unexpectedly. I can get them to come back on for extended periods by fiddling with the control knob in certain ways. This is the kind where you pull out of the knob to turn the lights on, and can rotate the knob to brighten or dim the dash.
If I pull a bit harder on the knob, the lights come on; if I twist this way just so, then off they go; that sort of thing. The fuses are fine and the contacts in the fuse box are clean. High beams work great no matter what (these are controlled from the steering column). I think the problem is at the control knob.
Now, how can I keep my headlights on when I turn them on every time without having to fight the gremlins? I think my next move is to remove the bezels and so on as best I can and get in there with some proper contact cleaner to see it's just built up gunk causing havoc. If that fails, or if that's a bad idea, what's next?
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My manual transmission 1995 Jeep Cherokee today refused to go into any gear after I had stopped for a light. After pushing it to the side of the road I was about to call AAA when it went into gear and worked perfectly thereafter. This happened once before about a month ago. What could be the problem and how likely am I to get stuck for good?
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I currently have a 1997 jeep grand cherokee that I seems to die on me. I will charge the battery to 100 percent and its actually a good battery. The vehicle will run fine and then out of nowhere it wont start. I throw the battery jump box on it and it starts. I was thinking that something has been obviously drawing power from the battery. What it could be?
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about 2 years ago, my 99 cherokee would start acting up at about 1/4 of a tank of gas...i would hit the throttle and it would lose all power like it wasn't getting any gas, it wouldn't stall out, but as soon as i would let off the throttle it would go back to running normal..... i filled the tank and it ran fine again.... i don't drive it much i've only put maybe 3000 miles on it since then, and now it's doing the same thing at half a tank now.... it even stalled out a couple times while idling..... do i need a fuel pump? a coil maybe? it usually runs great in the mornings when it's cold.... but when it gets hot out in the afternoon it starts doing it, or if its been running for a while....
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The Oil Gauge on the Instrument panel of my '99 Jeep Cherokee Classic is pegged fully to the right (TWICE the normal reading) when the vehicle is Stopped at a Light or stop sign. As I accelerate the needle drops down to NEARLY normal but pegs again as I decelerate to a stop. The engine sounds normal, operates like normal, no smells, oil level on dipstick is OK. What's up with this?
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I have a 2009 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Engine is running rough. Check engine light comes on. Code is P0152. The code is defined as high voltage on the front o2 sensor (bank 2). I hooked up the scanner again and checked the voltages. Both O2 sensors on bank 2 are never making it above 0.1V. That seems to contradict what the DTC is telling me. Is that somehow related to the fact that it is not going into closed loop? I'm a little confused.
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I own a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo V8, and there has been an ongoing problem with it stalling. The check engine light is on and it reads codes about idle control sensor and 02 sensor. I spent a lot of money having both replaced, along with an processor. I had to bring my Jeep to a dealership so they could "marry" the processor to the car. The check engine light went out for about a day, then once the computer reset, light went back on. The codes still read bad O2 and idle sensor despite them being replaced.
The problem is when the car starts cold I have to keep my foot on the gas for a couple minutes or it will stall out. Once it has warmed up the car runs good. I turned the idle pin on the front of the throttle body to try to keep from having to put my foot on the gas but it still stalls. It seems like it is working better in the cold weather. My mechanic says that I may have turned the idle too far trying to fix it and that is why it is stalling.
I just want my car to run without having to warm it up every time. It wastes time and a lot of gas. Could it be something other then what I've already replaced? I don't want to keep replacing the same things and not have it fix the problem.
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