Lexus GS 2013+ :: Exhaust Tips Beginning To Crack And Peel


May 21, 2015

Four months on and today I noticed my 3M carbon fibre wrapped exhaust tips are beginning to crack and peel in the corners. I am thinking exhaust heat finally drying the glue backing out causing them to dry up like old leaves.

Also after Plasti Dipping my logos I have had no luck with the rear tailgate F Sport logo in removing the fine SPORT centre fill cleanly to reveal the white background on my white GS. Everywhere else went perfect. Not keen on leaving a silver logo with all other blacked out on the back end.

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Son says he does not hear any noise (popping) and he does not smell any exhaust. Can we let it go? Is there a stickum repair we could try? (I was thinking of the high temperature cement I used on furnace flue metal duct, but I suspect it would not hold the pressure of the exhaust.)

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My 2007 ES UL has started to peel at the edge of the glass of the rear roof panel. It was originally just at the rear corner and I assumed it must have been scratched and the due to dryness started to peel. Then I noticed it at the other rear corner. I asked them to look at it at the dealer and the service advisor told me it was from the UV rays which dried it out, and not to worry about it. I bought and applied einszett gummi pflege stift to those corners and all seemed well.

Now that it got colder here in NY the corners again began to pop up but today I see it's started to pop out very much in the middle of the panel which seemed fine before!! The SA had told me that this (gasket, molding) comes attached to the roof and to fix it I'd have to replace the panel! I'm scared my UL is sick of the panoramic roof just for show and wants to be able to open.

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Lexus SC430 :: Crack In The Middle Of The Inside Door Panel

My '03 driver's side door has been opened enough, and unfortunately with force when it catches a wind gust or opens downhill, etc, that it's actually resulted in a lengthening crack in the middle of the inside door panel. There are two hinges that are fine, which actually keep the door attached to the car frame.

In between, on the higher side of the inside of the door, there's a 'stopper' bolted to the door, with a bracket 'inside' the door. That's where the force of the door opening is applied to the door itself, and where the crack has appeared. It's already a good 4-6 inches long, and presumably will keep going.

In my head, the options seem to be:

-wait for the stopper to fully rip a piece of the door off, at which point the door will open all the way into the car itself.

-attempt a small scale weld 'in place' with a small overlay strip across the crack.

-pull the door all the way apart to where the welder felt more comfortable doing a solid repair job.

-find a replacement door altogether.

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Mine managed to become partially dislodged by a piece of retread on the way home from WitW '13.

It's not flapping around or hitting the exhaust or anything, but I want to get it back in place. I tried to just jam it in there but it didn't want to stay. I'm thinking full removal and reinstall is my best option at this point.

I know one of the clips on the painted bumper section is cracked, so that may be some of the problem.

Hoping I can get it back in place and then use some plastic epoxy on the clip, trying not to glue the valance to the clip but repair the clip itself...

I've heard it can be a huge PITA to remove? To be fully clear here -- I'm just talking about the black plastic stuff around the exhaust. All of the painted parts are intact (other than a cracked clip that I can see on the lower plastic painted section).

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I can not get the old one off (this alone tells me it's been on there too long). The hex is 26mm and all I have is a 26mm box end. It just rounds the corners of the plastic hex off.

As the new filter has a new lid, I am using a steel chisel and hammer (in a CCW direction) at several places on the top flange. I have also smacked the top flange liberally to get it to let go of whatever is holding it.

I'm about to get out my map torch out and warm up the plastic but would rather not produce a flame on something with fuel directly behind it.

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