Grease the tailshaft unit, or replace the entire shaft. I'll grease it tonight, what type of grease to use?
Lexus techs charge too much for parts/labour here, so i would like to attempt to sort this out myself.
Read the owners manual and didn't recall this bit of info on crawl mode...It sounds as if your transmission/driveline is about to ruin itself. Sounds exactly as if the fan is hitting the shroud periodically. After years of ownership and 35k miles I decided to try the crawl mode....for about 20 secs. After a quick call to my service manager he assured me "that's the way it sounds."
View 4 RepliesI've got a pretty nasty driveline clunk when going over 40mph and letting off and reapplying the accelerator. The way I'd describe it is: when I let off, it feels like something clunks forward, and when I get back on it, it feels like it clunks backwards.
So far I've had the U-joints replaced, replaced the tranny mount, greased the slip-yolk several times, and just changed the rear diff oil (and found no broken teeth or excessive wear in the gears) and it still does it.
Since I don't have a sig:
2001 Ex 4x4 7.3L PSD
5" RC Lift (but the clunking was present before the lift)
My 2007 Sonata V6 limited would produce a pop / clunk sound (sometimes 2-3 in succession) under these circumstances
- Car is coming to a stop (brake applied)
- When I release my brakes, press on the accelerator, a pop / clunk sound would ensue
It doesn't happen all the time. I noticed it's more prevalent when it's hot outside or when I've driven the car for a little bit
My mechanic re-tightened the subframe bolts and visually checked bushings / ball joints but everything seems tight.
Have 2008 Santa fe with a driveline hum noise. Originally thought is was a wheel bearing so I replaced what I thought was the suspect ones (1 in front and 1 in the back). Noise still there! Carrier bearing on the drive shaft? Front axle shaft? I'm at a lose.
View 7 RepliesI've had occasional issues the last year getting my 04 into 4WD, but at 270K on the original IWE actuators, that's probably to be expected.
I had new actuators ready to install, but took the truck out for a drive before doing the job. On a gravel road the back tires spun easily in 2WD, I switched over to 4wd and it was much harder to spin the tires- you could tell it was in 4WD- or at least seemed that way. I left it in 4WD and tried turning on a tar road and it didn't seem like it was binding at all. (I have an open diff in the rear, assume the front is the same?)
Anyway, I installed new actuators last night and took it out for another drive afterwords. I put it in 4WD and could IMMEDIATELY feel the binding when turning.
What I cant figure out is why I could NOT feel binding while in 4WD prior to the install. Could I have been in 3WD somehow? (04 Super Crew, Automatic, 4.6L, XLT- pretty basic pickup...)...
On my 07' I bought it home mid AUG. It has been getting much worse to a point there is a rear driveline vibration at all speeds above 40 and up to 70. I used to change intensity whether you are on or off the gas, and would almost vanish if in neutral. However now it is all the time.
I cannot feel any play on the u-joints, the yoke has a little play in the xfer case but is is normal like on most other trucks I have owned, and the pinion flange is nice and tight. Could this be **tight** ujoints or the driveshaft itself? It looks rusty, but there are no dents on it.
My car definitely has a driveline vibration, but the steering wheel also vibrates. All vibrations are, however, intermittent as to when they come and go, and the intensity - on both the chassis and the steering wheel - can also vary.
Tires and wheels have been ruled out with 99.9% confidence at this point... What puzzles me is how a driveline issue in a rear-wheel-drive vehicle can affect the steering wheel (even though it can certainly explain the shaking of the whole car). In the end, it's all connected to the same body, but still... I am even wondering if my car has this driveline vibration PLUS something else (e.g., control arms in the front suspension appear to be a popular replacement part in these cars according to other threads).
Here is a link to the TSIB that I borrowed from another thread: [URL] ....
2004 F150 FX4 5.4L. I drove from Vancouver to Edmonton and back this week and I started to get some issues. If I'm in overdrive at highway speeds, from about 90km/h to 120km/h give or take, which would be around 1600-2100rpm, and then I try to accelerate, sometimes on flats, rarely on downhills, but always on uphills, the truck will begin to jerk fore and aft. It feels like it's something through the driveline, either the driveshaft or the differential, but I really can't say for certain as I'm stuck in the driver's seat while this is happening.
If the truck downshifts or if I take it out of overdrive, i.e. getting the revs up high, the problem is no more. Other than the issue I'm having, it operates perfectly so this is very odd. I know that overdrive isn't a hill climbing gear, but normally an engine in the wrong gear will simply lug along until it's downshifted. The entire truck jerking shouldn't happen.
On my way to Edmonton, I noticed that this would cause one single, minor jerk. This is my way of describing it, but it was like the driveshaft had spun freely and then promptly re-engaged with the differential gear, causing a clunk. I doubt that's actually what happened, but I'm just trying to explain the sensation. It kind of feels like trailer jerking.
On the way back to Vancouver, it was a lot worse. Like I said, the whole truck would be jerking about once per second but there was one time that I found the sweet spot and it began jerking rapidly, twice per second. I threw it out of overdrive to stop this but the vibration caused the check engine light to flash a few times but it went away and didn't stay on.
What I might be up against? Been doing a little research. Seems as though this is common and it's supposedly the spark plugs, but those only have 50,000km on them.
I went to a couple custom exhaust shops to see about duals for my 04 f150. they gave me a price all were different ranging from 250 to 480 for the same set up. Cat back flow master 44 series dual out the back. I asked them if they can take the cats off and they said no and it would lose performance. is this true? i saw a couple videos on youtube.com and there was some with no cats. I kinda want to get true duals. So is it possible or not for this truck.
View 14 Replies5.4L 3v engine: The PCV is located in the drivers side valve cover. Tried to pull it out with no success and came to the conclusion that maybe it's threaded and a nut locks it in from the underside of the valve cover. Can this thing be replaced without taking off the valve cover?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2008 4wd V8 Ford Explorer Limited. About 9 months ago I had both front wheel bearings replaced. Immediately after they were replaced, I noticed a strange, new symptom. When taking off from a stop (either headed straight or turning), about 10-20% of the time I will get some wheel slippage.
I can feel the gears slipping, I don't think the tires are actually spinning and I'm definitely not flooring it and losing traction due to engine torque. When this slippage occurs, the loss of traction light goes on, and it always goes away in a matter of seconds and then everything is fine.
Once I noticed this happening I took it to the Ford dealership but they couldn't diagnose it since I couldn't mimic the problem with them riding in the car. They said it shouldn't have anything to do with the wheel bearings they replaced, but I think there may be an electrical connection that wasn't re-attached properly??
I have an 2012 isf with sikky headers and borla exhaust, and my left header hits the frame of my car when I'm taking off.
View 3 RepliesLooking at a truck at a dealership. 04 F150 Lariat 5.4 3v? 2wd SuperCrew 148k miles. Bone stock besides the bedliner.
Truck is pretty nice besides these 4 things. Kind of a shudder when taking off from a stop or a very slow speed. Adjustable pedals don't work.
New brakes, but possibly the rears are dragging a bit. Was able to turn them in neutral and the rear on jacks. Extra, guessing because of the newer looking battery, some systems lack data from the OBD2
I'm mainly concerned about the shudder from a complete stop/1-2mph. At the dealer, to leave the lot, the driveway was elevated. I think it showed very well climbing that hill. As it was noticed and played with the gas a bit. Otherwise, you stomp the gas, it may shudder for a second or two, (3-5 times?) once it hits about 3000 rpm in 1st, its fine. Only ever seemed to do it in 1st and never any other gear, never on any gear changes.
We lifted the rear end up on a jack and fiddled around. Put it in neutral and spun the wheels, tried to mess with the drive shaft... According to dad, who was looking at it with me said it was fine and that it's normal to have a little bit of slop, but I didn't notice any real slop myself, tried to push on the driveshaft on the transmission side and I think it may have moved a bit but it didn't feel loose or clang or anything. Although I didn't get to push on it too hard because he was rotating the driveshaft at the time.
I assume new fluids in engine and trans. My dad said something about old oil marks on the transmission pan area or something. Both to the fill line.
One thing that I wonder about is how long this truck has been sitting. I wonder about the differential clutches. I'm not that sure what it really has for the rear end. But google had mention of clutch packs in the rear. I wonder if because it's been sitting that the oil has settled out of the clutches or something. There was a mess of silicon on the rear diff cap area. Couldn't tell if it was new or not. I think we put 10-20 miles on it at least and only looked under it for maybe a half hour... Still did the clunk/shudder at a start from a stop, when we returned it.
So, what could be causing this clunk/chatter when talking off from a stop/1-2mph roll?
Axle wrap?
Differential Clutches?
Differential?
Driveshaft?
Transmission?
I had my local race shop install my new PPE headers and how I have a rubbing and grinding sound while taking right turns. They have had the car for a few extra days and they say they cant seem to find the cause of the problem. It rattles on a pot hole, it grinds on right turns and sometimes vibrates on highway cruise control driving.
View 14 RepliesI took apart the whole center console and then got to the harness which then I cut the speed sensor and then grounded the park brake bothe wires are violet/purple on the #59 harness which is the biggest harness on the back of the nav unit. It was working and everything was fine, I was ready to run wires for the double pole switch and then the DVD had no sound so then I tried several things and still didn't kick in so then I left it that way and waited till the morning and its like the DVD has a back up speed sensor that kicked in so when you come to a complete stop it works.
I know of another speed sensor 2 but that controls the nav so we dont mess with that wire.
Taking apart the car was easy 4 screws and 1.5million clips and snaps.
I have a noise problem in the front area. It sounds like a airplane taking off and landing. The sounds happen when the SUV is moving, even at rolling speed. It started with a very low noise which at first I thought might be a tire issue but about a month later it was very obvious that it isn't. (This is my wife's SUV, she just drive).
The SUV idles and drives fine still with front oem shocks. I have not inspect the breaks or rotors yet but they are breaking just fine with no squeak. It did get a aftermarket axle shaft on the right side. The noise is about even on both side.
Well I figured out a way to do fluid change without taking down the pan... just use a pump and suction out and then refill with pumper...
View 6 RepliesI've been getting some "heat shield like" sounding rattle from the underside of the car when taking off. It seems to be coming from under the engine area, I don't think it's the heat shield over the cat since I've had that before and that was the first thing I checked, it's all tight. Is there another shield under the engine that can cause this?
View 3 RepliesThe start up messages take way too long to clear, during which time they obscure the top section of the backup camera? I first get "phone connection successful..." followed by "transfer complete". Between the two messages, the top 15-20% of the backup camera screen is obscured. And it's really that top sliver of the screen that allows you to see more than 4 feet behind the car. I suppose I should just be more patient, but 10 seconds (I've timed it) is an eternity to wait after starting the car before you can start backing out.
So I just back out as if I don't have a camera using my mirrors and looking over my shoulder (which I did for my previous 30 years of driving before getting my GS so I guess it's not THAT big of a deal). I just find it really annoying to put a backup camera in the car and then obscure it with messages. It's interesting that Lexus feels it's important to tell me that my phone has been connected for a full 10 seconds. It would be more interesting to know if I was about to back up into something.
2005 5.4L She would have a hard time starting before but after I replaced and fixed everything below she was running really good. Now back to sputtering, taking a long time to start and now not starting at all.
I have replaced; Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter, FPDM, Plugs and COP's, FRP Sensor, followed the power wire from the FDPM and found it corroded bad so I replaced it, also changed the ground location on the FDPM, I have checked all the wires from the FDPM to the drivers seat, checked all fuses.
I have power to FPDM and I have the diagram for the plug but how can I test (hotwire) the Fuel Pump without lowering the fuel tank? What should be the voltage coming from the FPDM plug? not sure about pin 1 & 6.
How can I test the FRP sensor? what are the specs for voltage?