I have a 2003 Lexus Rx 300. Last year I had new brakes and I think the rotors were worked on. I also got new tires on all 4 wheels. I have noticed a shake when I brake, mostly from high speeds. I just had the tires rotated and the shake is still there.
View 3 RepliesTaking my car to get the brakes serviced this week. Every time I brake at a high speed the car shakes. I am guessing best case scenario I get the rotors resurfaced and worse case new rotors.
View 9 RepliesI have an 05 Camry LE & when ever I'm on the highway going around 50-80mph & need to break my steering wheel starts to shake until I either stop or put my foot back on the gas. Last year my power steering rack & one of my motor mounts got replaced, & for awhile it stopped & figured because that was going out that's what was causing it.
Well about a month later it started back up & still does it, I've taken it to the dealership & have told them & they test drove it, felt the same thing I felt but didn't find anything. Is there anything else that could be causing it ? Earlier last year my bearings were lose in the front, and I managed to get my brakes stuck & had that all fixed & since then that's when it started shaking . I took it back to that shop & mention every time I go in for oil changes at my dealership, is there something else I'm not aware about that I should ask them to look at ?
Ok,I have brought my car (2005 Toyota Echo) into the shop three times and they can't figure it out. I have summer and winter tires. Last summer the summer tires were fine, the winter tires were fine, then I changed the front tires, and couldn't remove the back tires (I hit them with a hammer and 2x4 and they didn't come off). From that point on my car has vibrated at around 60mph, but not 100% of the time.
I took the car in to the mechanic, they changed the back tire for me and balanced the front...still vibrates, they then balanced the back...still vibrates. Now they say the disk rotor is bent, and want to fix that but aren't sure that will fix the problem. What's going on, I changed the front tires and now the car vibrates at high speed most of the time, but not all the time.
My wife drives a 2010 Honda Civic LX sedan with about 18k miles. She mentioned that its steering wheel started shaking a couple of weeks ago when driving at about 60 miles/hour at the same streth of the road during her daily commute. She did experience the problem during rest of her drive at lower speed. I drive the car about once a week at lower than 45 miles/hour and had no problem. I have checked the tires and noticed nothing obvious.
View 1 RepliesSo I've been driving my tiggy with the rusted brakes from when I left it for a few months during this past winter season outdoors. I had VW check on it and they said that the only way to fix the problem is to replace the brakes (rotors and pads, I assume) for over $1k. Is there really no way to maybe scrape/sand the rusts out? Right now, when I step on the brakes, I have the pulsating feel and the car shakes when coming from a high speed. At first I thought it would go away after driving it a bit and stepping on the brakes since I did just that last year when I left it for a month during the winter season as well. If the only way is to have the brakes replaced, then I guess I have to shell out the money.
View 5 RepliesI've been noticing my steering wheel shakes if i normally brake going on the highway at high speed. My friend said that it's probably your brakes and rotors. Get them replaced and resurface and that should fix the problem. Can i get some confirmation before i do this?
1. I just had my tires replace at 55k and bought this car new back in feb 09. it has 62k.
2. also i've been reading up on camries fail water pump. i'm thinking of doing this over the weekend or should i just wait until i notice some leaks?
3. lastly, any major thing i need to be aware of. i've done the normal engine oil and filter change, cabin and engine air filter change, that's about it. i hope these camries are bullet proof like the old school (92-95).
2001 F150 4x4 harsh shaking. When driving at consistent speeds the truck begins to shutter and shake, begins as a light shake and becomes extremely harsh fast. This is not like a vibration that can be felt, but a really harsh shaking of the entire truck.
The truck continues to shake after taking foot off gas and braking. It will shake harshly even when braking and slowed down to 5mph, but instantly goes away once at a complete stop. Accelerate immediately after coming to a complete stop and it completely goes away and drives normal for a day.
Check Engine light has not come on. Tachometer stays consistent RPM. Shift into neutral does not stop shaking. Only coming to a complete stop ether in drive or neutral does the shaking stop. It happens driving at consistent speeds going 35mph & 65mph, etc. Any thoughts on what the issue could be?
Car: 2003 Jetta GLS 1.8T
The car is starting to produce a heavy shake in the steering wheel when above 45mph up through highway speeds. The kicker is that the shake only occurs on-center, because turning the wheel just a few degrees off creates a relatively smooth result.
Checked the wheels for balance, tire wear [which is good, no cupping], lower control arm (LCA) bushings, and complete a lock-to-lock steering test on the ground to confirm steering rack mounting bolts are tight. What's the next pieces of hardware I'm needing to verify?
When I apply the brakes moderately at speeds between 60 mph and 80 mph, the brakes pulses and the car shakes. If I press harder, the intensity gets worse shortly and then disappears the harder I press. The front steering wheel does not shake so I believe it is the rear brake or wheels. This problem started after I changed the rear VW brakes rotors and rear VW pads and changed all four wheels with remanufactured VW Phaeton wheels. The issue must be with the wheels,brakes, or lug nuts. The tires have not been changed but they are fairly new from what I can tell. The front rotor and pads was changed by the prior owner and I've never had issue with them, they are fairly new and look to be OEM.
Prior to reinstalling the new wheels, I cleaned the rust off of the front rotor surface that makes contact with the wheel and applied high temperature paint. One of the wheels I had a run in the paint (and there is no way I can make the paint 100% the same thickness) so perhaps this has slightly misaligned the front wheels to the rotors.
When I did the brake job, I cleaned the driver side rear hub of surface rust prior to installation of the rotor. I did not clean the hub on the rear passenger side because the hub and wheel bearing was changed a few months prior. I did snap the plastic for the speed sensor for the abs on the rear passenger side. I epoxied the plastic back together and have no ABS errors when the car is scanned. Everything was torqued per VW recommendations. I also checked the calibers sliding mechanism (for left to right movement if rotor slightly warped or out of true) and they moved freely and was not locked up. The only part of the job that was not 100% by the book is I used a hand made tool to push the pistons in on the calipers so I could install the pads (I had to push and turn the piston roughly at the same time but was not 100% at the same time because the tool was hand made).
I've had the wheels professionally rebalanced balanced at a tire shop with a fairly modern balancing machine (digital computer flat screen readout). Originally the wheels was balanced with an older balancing machine and when they rebalanced it it was noted the wheels was way out of balance. I had a bad steering wheel shake and the car vibrated significantly prior to the new balance. The shaking improved greatly with the rebalancing but I could still feel a subdued shake in the seat of my pants (steering wheel shake is gone). Yesterday, I retorqued all of the lug nuts and found the driver side rear and passenger side front had one loose lug nut. Also it appeared that the lug nuts may have been installed with an impact driver and probably not torqued because some were very tight. I used a dial gauge to check both the rear tires and I have about 15-20 thousands of movement in each wheel when rocked side to side and top to bottom. Prior to tightening the lug nut on the driver rear, I had 100 thousands of side to side movement. Car now runs much smoother (maybe not as good with the original wheels and brakes but pretty good) after retorquing all the lug nuts, but the same 60-80 mph pulsing / shaking happens when apply the brakes at speed, perhaps even worse.
I've also checked the rear rotor and wheel runout with the dial gauge and I didn't have anything over 4 thousands on the rotor or wheel when rotated. My jig for the dial gauge was not the best since it was hand made and was attached to the ground instead of the car, so any dial gauge measurements could be off, but I would think they tolerances would be even better if I had a proper jig mounted to the car (not floor). The only thing that I haven't replaced is the lug nuts. Tightening them did seam to change the brake pulse behavior for the worse but did make the car run smoother. Could it be possible that the lug nuts are stretched and this is producing the behavior I'm seeing? I've head the ABS can cause a shake if the speed sensor is damaged.
I've owned the truck for 8 months, did a fair bit of maintenance in the first two months (plugs, tranny fluid change, maf cleaned, o2s replaced), 320,000km runs very well, no codes.
When the truck is in gear and I put my foot on the brake after a second or so idling, the engine shakes. Releasing the brake, the shake stops, but it does it every time. Also, the belt or one of the pulleys will squeak a bit at the same time, but only idling with the brake on.
It doesn't seem like it is a serious problem, but what and why? My instincts are telling me it may be transmission related.
At high speeds 70mph + there is a vibration with my 2006 Passat. You can definitely feel it at your feet, and slighty at the body. It is snowy and cold up here, I tried a few different roads, no change.
View 13 RepliesThe VSC light came on at approximately 62000 miles. Took it too a mechanic who put it on computer, found gas cap loose, and reconnected hose under air filter however no code shows on the computer for a fix. The VSC light still remains on. Tried all the internet fixes; pulling fuse & disconnecting battery cable. The light goes out but as soon as I move the car it comes back on. Is there anything I can do to avoid a large dollar visit to the Lexus dealer since there are no driving or stopping symptoms with the car.
View 9 RepliesMy 1999 lexus rx300 first threw a P1135 following a P0125, I tested the sensor and it was open at the heater circuit then then I was waiting the new part in the mail and during that time it kept running rough and then it threw a P0300, P0301, P0305, P0303. I was thinking that the PCM cannot monitor A/F ratio without the sensor so maybe the injector base pulse width was good enough. The misfire is are on bank 1, same as the bank 1 A/F sensor.
View 3 Replies2000 Lexus RX300 - door locks/acutators... the locks open and close perfectly with the master driver actuator lock unlock button or with the the remote IF the temp is 70 degrees or below. If the temp is above 70 degrees the the actuators for all four doors will NOT all lock..1-4 do sometimes....they vary from door to door, day to day , including the driver driver door. Actators are expensive. Because they do work when cooler it tells me they do work. Why not when warm? what do I need to do? This is my mystery
View 3 RepliesWe have a '99 Lexus RX300 with 174,000 miles (the engine has 130,000). The check engine light has been on for 2 years. The first mechanic found it was an O2 sensor and said that we didn't need to really do anything as long as the car was running good. So we didn't. Apparently a new code appears when running a diagnostic for the evap. sensor or vapor canister...is that right??? We had the evap sensor fixed..or so we thought and than tried to have the vapor canister worked on but the mechanic said the light came on.
Recently, the car has started lurching or losing power when it's warmed up and when it's accelerating. So, we took it to the Lexus dealership and 2 things were suggested
1) the vapor canister had been installed incorrectly and
2) sounds like the transmission is going.
So I have 2 questions, I think,
1) What is going on with the check engine light?
2) Does this sound like the transmission is going?
I have a 2000 Lexus RX 300 with 235,000 miles. I have been having a challenge with the "check engine" light coming on. I have taken it to a reputable mechanic several times. I had the oxygen sensor replaced, and the light went out. I had an emissions inspection, and the light came back on during the test, but it still passed, and the inspection report commented that there was a communication error, but no other problems. Every time the light comes on my mechanic puts his testing equipment on and finds no problems. I am trying to sell the car, but I am concerned that any potential buyer is going to look a the high miles and the check engine light and get scared off. The car is in great condition and looks like a very well taken care of car.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2000 lexus rx300. the steering rack was replaced 2yrs/20k ago. now, there is very slight seeping of fluid. only noticeable on on the boot and never drips onto the floor. i took it back to the dealer and they said that is normal and after 2yrs it's in very good shape. i question why if the seals are working properly then should i see this?
View 6 RepliesI just bought a 2005 RX300. It has a DVD in the glove compartment, which is not originally from Lexus, connected with the navigation screen.
When I turn it on, it starts playing the disc. But I cant find how to activate it on the navigation screen. I don't get any audio as well.
Tried the MD1 button, but it plays my flash drive, which is also in the glove compartment. Also tried CD button in different ways.
I know it is individual depending on how they install these, but what to try? There is also an remote for the DVD, but also doesn't seem to do anything about getting the audio and video on the screen.
Run my lexus around in traffic or up hills the temp gauge goes into the red, leave it running in the driveway it overheats and yes the fans work using the a/c so i know its not the fan motors the wires from both the fans go into a fan computer in the middle of the fans near the top of the radiator.....searched all over for a fan temp switch does it have one?
View 5 RepliesCurrently I own a 2000 Lexus RX 300. I just had an oil change but there is a noise by the tires only when I accelerate. When I put my foot on the brakes it stops. I am at a loss. Where would the best place to ask and get the work done.
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