Lexus SC430 :: Passenger Side Rear Wheel Stud Replacement?
Apr 4, 2015
I need to replace one wheel stud on the passenger side rear. Read an old post that said jack up the car remove wheel spay the stud you need to knock out with WD 40 or PB Blaster. Wait 10 minutes smack it with a small sledge hammer and out it comes. Now I have done that on some older classics but is it that simple on the SC. I have not really jacked it up to give it a good inspection, but I would think you may need to remove the rear rotor and maybe the back cover I saw when I took a quick look under the car.
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I replaced my rear brake pads this weekend. I used oem pads and used the shims with CRC lubricant. I also compressed the brake calipers and made room for the new pads. I also tried to take off one of the rotors but it would not come off even with putting screws in the rotor.
Everything seemed fine and brakes were strong but when I went for a test drove there is a clicking sound at low to medium speeds come from the rear passenger side. I checked the retainer pins and they are on correctly.
What the problem may be? I would like to spin the wheel but the parking brake is on. Is it okay to take off the parking brake while jacked up if I block the wheels??
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I was not able to just hammer the old stud out because the space behind hub is too close to allow it to come out so I cut it off with a metal blade and popped each piece out easily. Now the problem is getting a new one in. I rotate the hub looking for spot it will go in easily keeping it horizontal but it seems every way is going to force it in and it will ruin the threads. The end away from the threads has the wider cap and it prevents it from going into the hole straight. It doesn't appear to be easily accessible like the older Honda's. The way they have fabricated parts in this area makes it challenging.
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Was replacing 168 bulbs tonight with led bulbs. Trunk went fine. I got a warm color that's a little whiter than stock and about twice as bright but 1/5th the power. I measured 49 ma vs 247 ma for the stock bulb. Then I went to replace the passenger door bulb. Put the led one in and it flickered on and off a few times and then went out. Figured it was a flaky loose connection. Check the contact and put the old bulb back in. Nothing. Checked the voltage at the connector. Nothing there either.
The fuse that controls that bulb has a bunch of other stuff on the same fuse which all still works, so unless there's a hidden fuse inside the door, then there's a wiring problem that just magically appeared now. I don't think there's a fancy controller. This light doesn't fade up or down and is not on a timer. It's directly controlled by the door switch and is instant on or off.
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On my 2006 SC430 the DRL's come on with the low beam lights.I assume this is standard across all second Gen SC430's. My issue is the passenger side DRL went out. The high beams worked fine, but only the drivers side DRL would work when the headlights are on (no DRL's come on with the headlights off).
So, I went to AutoZone and picked up replacement bulbs. I just put them in and the exact same thing is happening. Brights work fine, DRL only works on the drivers side. Where to even look now that I have replaced the bulbs.
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I have searched and I can only find instructions for the front. The rear is completely different right? I am assuming I need to remove the disk rotor. Can I pound out the broken stud with a sledge hammer and will the new one just fit in from behind or is there more to it?
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I recently bought a 2010 accent 4 dr. and broke a rear wheel stud. The local auto parts store lists front studs and I was told they cannot get rear ones. What is the difference?
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I broke one of my rear studs off today when I was putting my wheel back on. The rest seem okay, but I'm wondering how difficult it is to replace them? Is it as simple as hammering the broken one out and replacing it with a new one? I don't have to take the drum off, right?
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My passenger side window won't roll down. Everything else on the door works including the mirror. Guessing the motor, is there a way to check it?
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If the top is leaking on both sides by the side top front windows, is that expensive to repair? I think it might need a weather strip. In other words, when it rains, the car will leak on my thigh and or the passengers thigh.
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On my 2007 SC 430 I have a passenger headlight that appears to have a mind of its own. It works intermittently. I know that it is programmed to go off when the car is in park, but that is not what I'm talking about. When I start the car after dark both sides will be on but at some point the passenger side will go out, not all the time, but quite often. I have checked for loos wires but have not found any.
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So I've recently noticed a small "bubble" forming on the passenger side of my dash above the glove box. What this can be from or what could have caused it. I'm hoping that it doesn't have anything to do the with the airbag recall.
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My friend with a 2007 SC430 is having a recurring problem with his passenger's side headlight. The HID low beam keeps periodically going out, then will start working again. When it isn't lighting up, it's doesn't work on either the low beam or the high beam settings, while the driver's side lamp is working fine (driver's side low beam lamp is on with high beam lamp when high beams are engaged, and driver's side lowbeam lamp on as normal with low beam engaged).
He has replaced the passenger's side bulb with a Lexus OEM purchased from a dealer back in November which seemed to fix things for a while but now the problem is back again.
What the cause(s) could be and how to troubleshoot? He previously owned a 2002 SC430 for 6 years and never once had any headlight issues or even had to replace any bulbs, and the 07 is giving him this grief now after barely 3 years of owning it.
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I've only put a few thousand miles on my car since I got it last year. I noticed my wife has to slam the pass door rather hard to get it to shut. I figured the striker/latch alignment must be out of whack and didn't think much about it. The other day I started taking a look at it and realized the top of the door glass is just barely contacting the roof as it closes. The more I look at it, the more I think it's not a problem with the door or glass adjustment, but maybe the roof.
If I adjust the glass barely down, I don't get a tight seal. These are designed to just barely miss each other and there has to be some sort of tolerance stack up adjustment other than loosening the hinge bolts and re-tightening.
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My 2002 SC 430 has a rattle in the vicinity of the passenger side speaker. I have isolated it to this area because the rattle stops as soon as I turn off the sound system. How to remove the speaker grille and poke around? The grille itself does not seem to be loose.
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Any simple way to make my rear side windows go up when my top is down. I'm willing to rewire if its fairly easy.
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Recently purchased a 2002 sc430 . After an hour of driving I began to hear a buzzing or humming coming from the backseat on the passenger side . Sounds almost like a fan. Car drives just fine but the buzzing is driving me nuts.
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The closest thread I found was this [URL] ..... The straight rod that goes into the windshield from the roof, on the passenger side, does look a bit worn. should i tape it up? I started having this problem recently. Never heard this noise the past.
My sc430 is giving a loud pop right over passenger's side from roof, whenever my car goes over a bump or rough road. I think it's where the front hardtop latches are. Only on the driver's side. It's a loud pop sound.
Does this have something to do with the latch, or latch motors, that closes the power roof ? Would it work if I tighten the retractable top by turning the rubber button in the center back of the car, the one that exposes during roof operation as outlined by other posters here?
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Have a 2000 Forester with 114K. Had to replace driver's rear wheel bearing at 100k & again at 110k; when replacement bearing started to fail, ABS light came on because wheel was not spinning true! Replaced passenger's rear wheel bearing at 105k (this one is getting noisy now).
Hard to believe I got 2 "bum' bearings! Not a difficult repair, but this will be 4 bearings in less than 2 years. The car's driven on paved roads & with little load, so it's not from harsh road conditions or heavy loads.
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how to access the bulbs for the rear side marker lights?
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I just bought a 2007 Lexus ES 350 last month with 40k miles and I LOVE the car. I took it in for it's first oil change today at the dealership and they found a leak in the passenger side axle. There was grease all over the place and they told me I needed a new axle. They mentioned it looked like the damage was pretty recent. There is a remanufactured Lexus part they offered for $300. If I let them replace it, the total including an alignment will cost me $650. My question is.... Can I buy the part and replace it myself, then get the alignment done at the dealer to avoid all the labor fees. I consider myself mechanically inclined. Have done my own fair share of maintenance work from oil changes to valve cover gasket replacements.
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