Lexus SC430 :: Random Hiccups And Engine Hitches During Acceleration
Oct 16, 2012
Over the last few months I was having a problem with my 2002 SC430 with 130,000 miles having random hiccups and engine hitches during acceleration and even at random times while on the highway or around town. My average 10 minute trip around town would have at least 10 hiccups, all random and during no specific style of driving. No one wants a stuttering engine!
After reading some of the threads here there were several options...
1. Do a system reset by using only the key turned on and pressing on the gas pedal for thirty seconds. While optimistic, this didn't solve the problem...
2. Many threads suggested that it may be my TPS (throttle position sensor) so I started shopping around for a sensor to install myself. They run for about $75 online and are a pretty easy install..but I wanted an official opinion so I went into my local lexus dealership to ask them if this was the best course of action...
The solution: Apparently, the 430 engine is a notorious carbon producing engine so, as my local lexus mechanic explained, this carbon can build up in the throttle body, affecting how the mass air flow sensor (MAFS) is read. My mechanic recommended having a FUEL INJECTION SERVICE. This service cleans the fuel deposits in fuel injectors and carbon build-up in cylinder heads and in the throttle body plating.
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I own a 2002 SC430 with 20,200 miles on it which I purchased new. The other day the check engine light came on. I checked it with the code reader and got the following 2 codes. P0300 (random multiple misfired detected) and C1201 (engine control system malfunction). The car ran great before, now running real ruff and when you drive it has less power.
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I got 2002 SC430 with 59,000 Miles, all of the sudden my car doesn't have any acceleration at all. When I press gas paddle it doesn't do anything, but engine stay on. I couldn't get any error codes since I changed batteries to make sure if it wasn't the battery..
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I have just noticed a random knock on front end on 2002 430 sc when going 5 to 10 mph and turning steering wheel to left or right...sounds like metal to metal and shifting or movement knock ... turning left, sound on passenger side; turning right, sound on drivers side..brake system checked out ok; had struts, plates and insulators changed; checks were made on torques to all front suspension bolts and everything is tight and no movements in bushings and etc.. totally baffled and really an annoying sound......ball joints are tight and no movement.
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The particulars are 2003 Camry, 4 cyl, manual trans. When it gets to be 90 degrees or hotter outside, the car hiccups when accelerating through 2800 rpm. That is the most common scenario. Pretty much any gear and the problem gets worse the hotter to outside air. It never throws a code or check engine light. It doesn't stall although it feels like an instantaneous loss of ignition. I can set the cruise control and it will periodically happen when driving through the desert. It repeats as often as it wants to....no overall pattern, uphill or flat, no difference. Dealer says nothing is wrong since it won't throw a code. No issue in the winter, only hot summer driving.
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As I have experienced hesitation on acceleration from a stop, I found a TSB # L-SB-0154-10, that addresses this condition for the 2010 SC430. It was issued in 12/1/2010. I am not sure if it would apply to any other years. The TSB entails re-flashing he PCM with updated software.
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I've looked at [URL] at the three primary hitch receivers for the 2013 RX 350; Curt, Hidden, Draw-tite.
From the side profile picture which etrailer displays for each, the Curt has one hole and the other two have two. Those two appear to be different sizes. The one on the Curt seems to appear smaller than the larger of the other two holes on the other two hitch receivers.
I called etrailer and the person I spoke with could not tell me why they were different, they just read the specs I see on the page, tongue weight, load, blah, blah.
With my hitch, I will need to haul a Yakima trailer, about 450 Ibs total, it is a very lightweight trailer, or a 2" Yakima bike rack. Maybe some day, I'll need to haul something of substance, but I have no plans.
I'm also wondering if a hitch which is recessed back, will it be difficult to work the pin in and out?
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I took my first road trip with my family in our new LS460L up through Donner's Pass and into Reno. This car just gobbles up miles. But what I did notice is that going through the mountain pass, the car barely hiccups through the curves and hills. Before you know it, you're pulling lateral g's.
The other thing I notice is that it's really easy to get comfortable in this car. It's just pure smooth silk. Makes me want to go into a trance. I'm not talking about the crap that BMW drivers throw at Lexus cars about detachment etc. Personally I love the smoothness.
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I've got a 2010 Hyundai Santa Fe with the 2.4L engine. Funny thing happened on the highway. Driving along with the cruise on, the engine 'hiccups'. Almost like a quick hesitation or someone lightly tapping the brakes.
Got it home and ran the usual tests. Computer showed no trouble codes. Checked the oil. Checked the air filter. All normal.
Turned the car on and tested it in park. Gave it some gas, and took the engine up to 3k RPMs...after a few seconds, it did the hiccup thing again. I watched the RPMs dropped from 3k to 2.5k, and then rebounded to 3k. We could also hear a slight and single 'knock' each time the RPM's would drop. I noticed the A/C was on, so I turned it off, and the problem went away. Turned the A/C back on, and the problem came back. I did that about 5 times to confirm it, and every time the problem occurred, the A/C had to be on.
Now, of course the car has 61.5k miles, and we're the second owners, so bye bye warranty. The car was in for repairs at the dealership when the head control unit for the A/C had issues. Of course now we ask them if the problem is related to their repair will they cover the costs, and they say the best they can do is ask Hyundai to cut down the expenses (even though the repair was done within the last 10k miles)?!
My guess is the compressor has kicked the bucket. Of course, I'm not sure if maybe it's the idle motor not operating like it should or if the car even HAS an idle motor to work with the RPMs when the A/C is on.
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2005 3.5L FWD. 5 days ago I left the house, the engine was running smooth at idle but having hiccups when accelerating. Check engine light went on when accelerating but going off at idle. Turned around at the first stop light, parked the car home and pulled code P0302 misfire on #2 . Figured it's most likely the coil, was going to order one next day but to my surprise, no more check engine light next day and engine has been running smooth since then. Probably drove 100 miles since with no issues. I have 6 spark plugs waiting to be replaced but it's too cold to do it right now unless it's an emergency. Car has 105k miles now, spark plugs were changed at 63k. Was this just a fluke and P0302 will probably not come back or should I not risk it and just go ahead and replace the coil? If I end up replacing the coil, should I do one coil or all three?
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So I went on a little trip about 500 km away.. when i got there everything was normal.. next day while hanging with my buddies my Engine light, VSC and VSC OFF light came on.. I wasn't pushing the car or anything, driving normal and going around 120 to 135 kph on hwy there. Usually people would panic but in the past I have had cars that got these lights and usually its just a sensor.
I mean the car drives perfectly normal, i have driven it 900 km after the light, the temperature doesn't rise, there is no leaks anywhere, there is no smell, engine oil is all there, everything seems perfectly fine. I read a few threads referring to the oxygen sensor? I am thinking of getting that replaced.. how many are there that I would have to change? Also someone mentioned ABS sensor in another thread.. not sure what that has to do with the engine, i mean ABS has its own light right?
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I've got a GTI with a lot of engine vibrations, and I'm not sure if it's something to worry about or even if it's somewhat normal. I have 23,000 miles, Stage II for most of that. My motor ticks obviously but they all do. The idle is smooth (mostly, the needle never fluctuates it's idling at a specific RPM perfectly) but I feel little hiccups and inconsistencies in my steering wheel at a stop light.
Could this be bad motor mounts? Could this be a valvetrain issue? Is there any way to debug this?
I first noticed the issue (it might have been happening beforehand, but never noticed it) after getting my 20k dealer service. Until then I was changing my oil and filter every 6k with motul specific 5W-40. Could they have used a different weight of oil that might simply be changing the way the motor feels?
It seems the idling vibration characteristics of my motor have changed, and I'd like to fix the issue if one exists to prevent future damage to the motor.
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For the past month or so, my RX has been making this weird vibration and noise from the under body near the engine (maybe transfer case?) It is usually when it's cold and at low speed. But sometimes it does it even when the engine's warmed up for couple minutes.
I did change the transfer case fluid and rear differential about 3 months ago. Not sure if this is related.
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Noticed a slight vibration from my engine at idle. Nothing too overbearing but just had a concern. How much should I expect if the engine mounts need replacement? Parts? Labor?
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My check engine light just turned on recently. Just hit 115K miles on my SC430 a few weeks ago. Is there a service that I'm missing? Running absolutely fine, oil change recently as well.
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I have a 2003 SC430 with 170,000 miles on the odo. When at idle, the car shakes a little. I notice it the most when at a red light. But if I put the car in N, the shaking goes away. It happens with the most severity when in D and with my foot on the brake. I'm assuming the shake is normal for a car of this age and mileage, but i'd like to eliminate it.
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When I am driving at a higher speed and I need to pass someone or accelerate, the engine bogs down. I push the peddle to the floor and nothing. This does not happen all the time but it happens. But when I accelerate from a light or lower speeds there does not seem to be an issue. I recently had the value gaskets replaced because of a small oil leak and it seems this problem began after then. I have taken it back to the shop but the problem does not duplicate itself when they test drive it.
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My engine coolant is low, so I just picked some up from toyota to top it off. The bottle says to see the owner's manual for the proper ratio. I don't have mine handy. The best I could find was this PDF posted by Bob. But it doesn't have the ratio. What it should be?
[URL]....
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About month ago, the CHECK ENGINE, VSC, and VSC OFF lights came on in the dash of my '03 SC430 (~175k miles). Took it to the dealer and they read the codes; indicating a bad O2 sensor. They replaced it, and the lights went off. A few days later, the lights came back on. The lights remained ON until this past weekend.
On Sunday, i went to start the car in the morning and the thing wouldn't turn over. Turns out the battery was dead. The label indicated it was 5yrs old. So i bought a new battery. After installation, i noticed the error lights were no longer illuminated on the dash, but just figured it was due to the fact that the battery was disconnected during installation. But after driving it extensively since then, the lights have remained off.
Something else i've noticed since installing the new battery is the lack of the "rotten egg" smell from the exhaust. Before the change, i noticed a significant decrease in acceleration and the emissions smelled very bad. But for the past few days, i've noticed a dramatic increase in power and cleaner smelling emissions. Not sure if they're related...
Could the check engine lights have been the result of my battery dying? I'm not sure why they haven't come back on since the battery replacement. Nor a reason why i'm noticing improved performance and better smelling emissions.
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Started up the SC 430 (2002) and a clicking noise is coming from the engine. After engine is warmed up noise settles down. Have 71212 miles
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My '06 SC has about 72k miles and I've notice of late after starting it, it initially idles at about 1,200 RPM and tends to stay there until after driving and warmed up and then goes down. It used to start up at 1,200 RPM and after a very brief period of time would settle at 1,000 or 800 RPM, I can't recall exactly. My question is, is this normal related to the life of the engine, or do I have a sensor or other type of issue that can be addressed.
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