Lexus SC430 :: VSC / ABS Lights On After Driving A Little Bit In Cold Weather?


Jan 3, 2014

Its not super cold but in Tampa ever since I installed my headers and its 60 or below i've gotten the VSC and ABS lights on in the dash after driving a little bit. Typically this is a cold morning type thing.

I reset the lights and it went away for a few days (it also got 30 degrees warmer) once it got down to 55 the lights came back on. Parked the car went in to work and when I drove home the lights were off (without re-setting the lights).

I know the codes can mean different things. The car is driving the same as always too- I have PPE headers, Ingen Intake, and a muffler delete.

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I have an 89 Volvo 244 DL series. I have had a complete tune-up, and oil change just recently. Battery works great, plenty of voltage, even had the fuel injection cleaned out.

Problem is the car starts right up when it is cold, however, after driving it and let it set for an hour the car starts up slower and immediately it stalls out. I do it again and the same thing happens and then I leave my foot on the pedal to keep it running at a higher idle for a bit and then place into a gear & it goes without any hesitation. If by chance I do not leave foot on pedal and put it in whatever gear it immediately stalls out. I have driven Volvo's for years, from the 70's to what I have currently. I never had encounter anything like this and have dealt with many other issues and this one has me baffled.

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Prius (2004-09) :: Warning Lights In Cold Weather - Car Seems To Run (mostly) Ok?

It has been cold recently (out of the past week, highs in 20's or lower). This hasn't been as much of an issue before, but in the past week I have had the red triangle of death, brake warning light, check engine light, and VSC light all come on at the same time, three separate times. Also, the display screen shows a red outline of a car with "!" through it. Each time this has happened, the lights didn't come on as soon as the car was "Ready" but only after the gas engine was running for a minute or two.

The first time the lights came on, I was driving back from class, but after I got back to my house I did some internet research and saw it may be a low oil indicator. Checked the oil, it was almost at the bottom mark on the dipstick, and it had been over 10,000 miles since the last one (oops! we don't normally do that). After reading some stories online, I took it in to get an oil change, and the lights went off for a couple days. Second time the lights came on, I checked the oil level, it was definitely over-filled, so I took it back to Walmart and had them redo the oil so that it was at the right level. I checked the oil level before leaving the parking lot that time and it was at the top mark on the dipstick. Again, all the lights were off for a couple days.

Today, I drove my car for about an hour in the morning (temperature was around upper teens, wind chill below 10) and had no problems. Then, this evening I turn the car on and start driving out of the parking lot when the car beeps at me and flashes all of the warning lights again. I drove back to my house and it is now sitting in the driveway. I am not planning on driving it until I can have a car mechanic friend take a look at it on Tuesday, but he doesn't know anything about the hybrid system/battery.

My wife and I have also noticed that since the weather has been colder, the hybrid battery (shown on the "Energy" screen when driving) seems to be charging and discharging much faster than normal. I haven't seen it at only 1 bar or full of green bars more than a couple times in the 2.5ish years we have owned the car, but in the past two weeks it has happened 5-10 times (estimated). I am not sure if this is due to the weather, or if it could indicate a problem with the (hybrid?) battery. For obvious reasons, this makes us nervous :/

As a side note, I changed the transmission fluid sometime in December, so I was wondering if possibly I didn't put enough fluid back in. I have checked the diagnostic screen and found some codes, but most of them seem to relate to the audio, which doesn't concern me as much as the code that seems to indicate the transmission, which is why I mention the change I did a while back. I just don't know why it wouldn't have shown up until now. I'll attach some pictures I took tonight of the codes and lights.

Also, the battery is a couple years old, but after sitting for a couple hours the battery was reading 12.1 V according to the diagnostic screen, so I don't think that is the issue. We haven't had any trouble getting the car to start, and once it is running it still seems to drive normally with the warning lights on. What these codes mean, and a possible cause for the warning lights?

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I should have expected: On the last 1/2 mile or so, when driving slow on the little bit of EV left while in the forced HV mode, I accidentally accelerated too much and forced on the ICE again (it had been previously on earlier in my 22 mile commute). This time, however, it was different because it didn't shut off immediately. I think the ICE had to do a second warm up. I'll have to watch that more closely next time (darn that cold weather)!

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This problem is so un-Lexus like that I cannot believe it! - We are not talking new technology here folks! Cars have had Windshields and Dashes for over 80 years. Lexus had this problem solved when they released their first car! I have never owned a car that has done this. I am betting even a Yugo would not have this problem!

My car is going to the dealer on Monday to fix this problem. Luckily my dealer has said they have fixed this problem before and have never had it re-occur. We'll see about that! This is the only thing that is wrong with my GS350 in over a year of ownership. What I cannot believe is that Lexus knew about this problem in 2006 vehicles and it is still there in 2007! This is not rocket science! I will be very interested in hearing if this problem is truly corrected in the 2008 models!

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Now that it got colder here in NY the corners again began to pop up but today I see it's started to pop out very much in the middle of the panel which seemed fine before!! The SA had told me that this (gasket, molding) comes attached to the roof and to fix it I'd have to replace the panel! I'm scared my UL is sick of the panoramic roof just for show and wants to be able to open.

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Originally the AC wasn't working, self diagnostic test pulled code 00, compressor would kick on for about 10 seconds every time the car was started but never blow cold air.

Had an AC tech check it out, pressurize the system properly, didn't change anything at all.

Replaced the entire compressor set (expansion valve, etc…) and the AC still doesn't work, again it kicks on for the first 5-10 seconds when the car is started and this time it DOES blow cold but then shuts off. Self diagnostic code throws code 21 & 24 in both dark and full daylight.

Replaced the solar sensor today and the diagnostic code is gone (00), but nothing changed with the AC.

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