I have a back up vehicle which my son uses occasionally. It's '1994 Mercury tracer. All the transmission fluid appears to be on the ground. Would that mean the transmission is no good! We haven't driven it but once this summer. My son bought some transmission fluid and put it in.
View 8 RepliesI have this excellent little car which has not given me any headache on its 210K miles so far. In the last four mounths, however, I started to notice that the engine starts kind of trembling on 5th gear and loses its power as if sothing chokes it, if I keep pressing the gas pedal it will make it worst, but once I let it go or shift down to 4th gear it reasumes normally for a while and then comes back again. I was told this could be a ignition coil or an axle problem.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1989 mercury tracer. The starter was just replaced and the the car started and ran fine for 3 days. Then when the car was switched on but not running after about 5 minutes, the car started itself, without touching or moving the key. Now whenever it is switched to the on position the starter goes on, and never goes off. The last time I drove it before this, after it ran for about an hour, I think the starter may have gone on, when I was a few minutes from parking it, because it started to make a lot of noise. the next day when I was checking it is when the starter engaged and started the motor with the key on but the car not running.
View 15 RepliesI have a 1999 Mercury Tracer with a 2.0 engine. 149,000 miles on the engine. Here is the trouble, it overheats at low driving speeds. My temp stays normal at idle in the driveway, normal at speeds of 35/45/55 or more. After about 10-15 minutes of driving around 25-30MPH though, the temp climbs steadily and approaches the red line. I checked my oil level and coolant level. Both of them appear to be fine. I have not noticed any leaks from the water pump area and cannot see any coolant in my driveway.
Could it be the thermostat is stuck closed? Air bubble in my coolant?
I have NOT pressure tested it yet, but I will be doing that this evening.
Recently I had a stuttering and squealing from a belt. I was able to shift into all gears with no problems. Before I could get it looked at, the squealing stopped and I was unable to go faster than 30 mph. The belt and pulley were replaced, but the car now will not shift out of 2nd gear. Transmission fluid is good, and has not been leaking. Does this indicate that I will need a new transmission? Or is there possibly a less expensive possibility? I've heard that some vehicles have what's called "limp mode". Also, is it safe to drive at 30-35 mph., and what damage might I do by driving it?
View 4 Replies1998 mercury tracer-
Car doesn't start, makes no sound at all when key is turned. After removing the key, engine light and shift light stay illuminated and the gps plugged into lighter stayed on. Normally there is no power to lighter with ignition off and key out. Headlights don't come on and remote entry doesn't work.
We tried to jumpstart-still doesn't start or make any sound at all. But the two dash lights went out once the cables were hooked to other battery. After disconnecting, dash lights remained off as well as power at lighter.
Battery voltage is 12.16v and it's only 2.5 years old.
Could it just be a bad battery?Does the fact we couldn't jumpstart it indicate a problem other then the battery?
Have vibration in steering wheel starting at around 70 mph on the highway:-This started after changing out front braked pads, but the brakes are smooth when applied with no vibration also turned rotors by hand to check for any grabbing on pad everything is fine.-Jacked up car and checked for wheel movement, everything seems tight.-Swapped tires around to see if a tire was out of balance.These are some of the things I have tried.
View 1 RepliesWife came home and said that her brake peddle went to the floor once. Truck is in the garage with a large leak of brake fluid on the ground. I ordered a new MC but not sure this is the issue. There is fluid on only the right side of the booster, all associated brake hoses and lines going into the ABS module. The module also has lots of brake fluid all over it. Looks like there has been a leak for a while. Only one flare nut coming from the MC was some what loose (I gave it about a quarter turn and it's tight now.
Booster has some rust on the front of it near the center of the MC bolt locations. Before I put this new MC on I want to be sure this is the issue. Do the ABS modules tend to leak OUT when they are failing? I see that's a common issue with the Hyundai but I don't see anything about fluid leaks externally.
The truck has about 180k miles on it. I was thinking of cleaning everything up the best I can adding some fluid and running it to see where the leak is coming from...
I have an 04 F150 5.4. Anyway drove truck about 200 miles this weekend. When I got back home, unloaded truck, noticed a fluid leak on the ground in the rear of truck. Upon further inspection, appears to be leaking from where the driveshaft meets the rear axle...looks like there's a gasket or yoke in the rear of the U joint? a little fluid dripped down and ran down to the lower portion of the "pumpkin" and made a quarter size oil patch in front of my house.
I would have definitely noticed such a stain before, since I park in the same spot at home and work every day. I drove to work today (14 miles) and looked under the truck for 15 minutes after I parked, don't see any drip, but do see remnants of a leak all over the front part of the rear axle. No way has any fluid leaked on the ground before, I 100% would have noticed a stain.
Thoughts on a fix for this? I had the clutch packs redone about 3 years ago under warranty, truck has 88k miles. No shudder when I drive from the rear axle, I'm assuming there is fluid in the rear gears, as a substantial leak I for sure would have seen on the ground. leak is 100% NOT coming from the seal on the rear axle, but in front of it where the shaft meets the axle. Possible that driving on the highway at 75MPH for 2 hours straight caused this leak, as my drive to work is mostly stop and go, both ways.
Well my car is crapping out lately,
I put a new steering rack in my mk4 1.8t jetta about a week before I parked it for winter. I went out to the garage yesterday and noticed a pool of PS fluid on the ground, I located one very small leak from the bottom banjo bolt on the rack (needs new crush washers, Was in a rush and didn't have time to pick new ones up :bang head: ).
But the part that confuses me is there is a puddle on/under the passenger side subframe, the rack boot appears to be dry, and I don't believe the new rack is faulty, they are supposed to be all tested and approved before reaching the buyer. and when I turn the car on I can't see a leak anywhere even with the wheel off and a decent view of the rack.
I have 2000 ford f350 7.3 diesel. (Approx 95,000 mi). Tried to tow heavy wood chipper out of soft backyard, truck on angle because of grade. Put in low and second for better traction. After somewhat high engine rpm tires started to move me ahead until spinning occurred upon which I would immediately stop and try again (slowly). Next thing I know trans fluid on ground and truck steaming. Let cool down, refilled trans oil to proper level, unhooked heavy load. Fluid NO longer leaking, drive home fine (towing nothing). What are my next steps? Very concerned I've done grave damage!?
View 9 RepliesI recently acquired a family car and have been experiencing some strange symptoms while driving. The car starts no matter how cold it was in Chicago this winter BUT after a few miles/10 minutes of driving the issue starts. As I approach or stop it begins to idol/rev up a few times and then die UNLESS I throw it into neutral. When I first start driving this is not an issue but without failure it starts to act up. Parking in the city = guaranteed to die at least twice in the process. This 1994 Topaz did sit unused or started most of the past 5 years.
View 2 RepliesWe have a 1994 Grand Marquis. Sometimes when driving the check engine light comes on and suddenly she doesn't want to accelerate very fast at all. If you do try to hit the gas, it sounds like the engine speeds up but there is no change in acceleration. It is also hard to get to/over 50mph. If you pull over and rev the engine a few times (slowly) there is an audible click from somewhere inside the engine. It will happen a few times and then the car seems fine. Inevitably the issue will come back a some miles down the road.It doesn't get driven every day and so far we have not had the light come on when we are near anyone that can read the error. Also, it resets and is not on if you turn the car on and off, even if the problem persists. It only comes on while driving (though it will stay on if put into park and left running). Oh, and possibly related, it seems that the air that is put out form the defroster is very damp when this happens (sometimes).
View 3 RepliesThe problem I'm having is with a 1994 mercury sable 3.8Let me start off with the things I've fixed, water pump, thermostat, radiator, complete head job done profesionally, and fan is straight wired to run on high all the time.
Now the interesting part. The car immediately overheard when the AC is turned on and only when it's on. It only overheats when your moving, not when your in park or in stopped traffic. What the heck is going on with it? All fluids are changed regularly and full. i unplugged the temp gauge sensor when running and it did not drop the needle does this mean it's bad?
My 94 accord lx just received a replacement motor and tranny from jdm auto.its from a 95 odyssey. I had to swap throttle bodies, distributor... from the old one cuz the new one didn't have cruise control components, external coil... Now its seems rather gutless and it wont down shift when in d4 or d3 unless I come to complete stop, but sometimes it stays in 4th which sucks at an intersection! Also the shifter moves freely from first to neutral without pressing the button. and of course check engine light is on constantly. I've played with tranny cables fuses are good, reset ecu, fluid is new... every thing seems fine and the tranny that we took out down shifted fine so I must be missing something simple. timing?
View 3 RepliesGot a '94 Explorer 4WD that needs a new tranny modulator. Is there an easy way to get at it on the side of the tranny? The catalytic converter heat shield is in the way and I can't seem to get it out or gain access to the modulator area without removing the catalytic converter.
View 9 RepliesThe shifter goes into the incorrect gear for what is showing on the dash.
For example:
A little left of Park = Park
Park=Reverse
Reverse/Neutral/Drive = Neutral
A little right (almost gear 2) of Drive = Drive
Once I have found the gear and the shifter is set, the handle has enough play in it that allows it to rest over the correct slot.
It started after I put the car into neutral from drive without pulling the handle back but instead just pushing it to the left. When I went to put it back into drive, it was still in neutral.
My girlfriend each week has to add at least a quart of tranny fluid. There are no apparent spots on the garage floor. The problem started last week when the engine light came on and she found herself sitting on the side of the road with her daughters in Nevada's 100+ heat.
I don't understand where the fluid could be going unless it leaks out when she is driving... but you would think that when she parks it, some would still drip off onto the floor and this is not the case.
I have a 2006 Toyota Prius, with- yes-- 175k. It runs like a gem. I'm trying to decide if I should sell it now, or if the battery pack is likely to go for another 100k...
View 3 Replies1994 Mercury Villager, driving about 10 miles to work this morning I noticed the temp gauge sitting just under the H at about the 8.5ish mile mark. All driving is on city streets from 25-35mph. When I noticed the temp I turned on the heater hoping to assist with bringing the temperature down. The air coming out was mostly cold occasionally pushing out slightly warm for a few seconds.
I got to work and checked the hoses for a leak, squeezing both the upper and lower hoses they felt empty. I added about 1-2 cups of water to the radiator and it would take no more. Started the car up and the supply hose firmed up while the return hose still felt empty. Left it like that until the end of my shift.
Started the car up and checked for any leaks, all fluids appeared to me to be topped off and I could see no leaks. Started to make the trip home and at about the 7 mile mark the temp gauge drifted out of normal. Turned on the heater and the air came out cold. About a mile later I pulled over and shut the engine off for 15-20 minutes. Started it back up and it was sitting in the normal range again, but only for about a half mile and then it started going back up. I finally got it home with the needle between normal and H, maybe closer to H than that. Opened the hood and checked for any leaks. Noticed some anti freeze had come up through the cap on the reservoir. Checked and it was cracked open around the top. The two hoses on the other hand had pressure and were fairly firm/squishy.
Just checked the oil and around the cap on the valve cover and and the oil just looks a little old. (was told by a friend to look for chocolate milk color).
When the car is idle it makes a loud noise,also it revs like 1500 and accelerates on its own. What the problem could be? 1994 mercury cougar 3.8 ....
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