Mercury - Villager :: 2000 - Stalls Out After Sputtering / Won't Start
Jun 16, 2011
I have a 2000 Mercury Villager with 6 cylinder engine and 117+000 miles. It stalled out on me after starting to sputter.I feels like a problem I had with a Toyota some years back. It had a distributor and the ignition module went south. But this is fuel injected. I could be ignition problem, fuel filter clogged, fuel pump problem, dirty injectors, grounding problem, or ? There was no check engine light, or any other warning light before the problem. I have done lots of car repair and maintenance and plan on fixing what I can short of a computer/ignition problem. Yes it does have gas.
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My 2000 Mercury Villager won't start the motor turns over, it just won't start. I ran the battery dead trying to start it.
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I tried spraying the throttle cable at the pedal end and linkage end with wd-40, and the problem is quite a bit better, but it still sticks at 45mph and occasionally when I first try to apply gas.
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2000 Mercury VIllager. Driving down the street and the engine just quit. Got it over to the side and tried to restart. It was cranking just fine but wouldn't start. after a bit I let it rest and tried again. It did start and I drove it back home. Service Engine soon light is now on. No battery problems or starter motor issues as it cranks find. It starts but sometimes there is a screeching noise as it kicks in. I can hear the fuel pump when I turn the key.
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2000 Mercury Villager tail lights stay on: This car is supposed to have a tail light relay. But I don't know where it is,accept 'main junction box' but I don't know where that is and which component would be the tail light relay.
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I just bought a 2000 Mercury Villager with a "leaking sunroof" but the leaks are above the front door openings & between the sunroof & windshield near the interior lights.
Friend who has another car with a sunroof says it may be the windshield?
Ford Dealer thinks it might be sunroof drains are clogged?
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I have a Villager that sometimes it turns over and starts, after driving I and shut it off it won't turn over.New battery, Relays ok,terminals good and I have 12 volts @ solenoid.
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Had a cracked windshield replaced last spring. This winter have a bad leak during rainstorms. Definitely not coolant from heater core. The insulation on the firewall, under the carpeting, gets soaked. Took it back to the glass replacement company. They sprayed water all around. Since no water appears on the top of the dash, they said it's plugged up drains at the air intakes, and bad insulation on the doors. I've cleaned all the leaves/compost away from air intake (removed wipers and cowling to do this), found one hole inside the door frame that was missing a rubber plug so fixed that. Latest rainstorm soaked the insides again. Question is where a leak like this might be coming from, and what parts do I start replacing to find out? Have glass guys redo the windshield? Get new rubber weatherstrips for the door? The car is a 1996, 110k miles, no visible rusted out parts. Never leaked at all.
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2000 Mercury Villager. There's an oil leak from the are shown in the picture. This is on the under-carriage of the car. The front of the car is to the left and It comes from the engine above and goes towards the rear of the car. You can see the oil that has seeped from the joint. What's this called? Do you think it's an easy to replace gasket of some kind?
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3 times now in the last week, my 2000 accent has stalled. each time it was at a low idle, slow moving speed. I was rolling up to a red light twice, and gliding into a parking spot the other. There was no coughing or sputtering. It just stopped. Each time, after about 20minutes or so, the car fires right up. it happened twice today after about 4 miles of driving. If the car sits for a day without running (on an off day from work) its a bit hard to start sometimes, but not consistently. Does this sound like a Crankshaft position sensor? or possible a fuel filter?
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My van had been making a screeching sound especially when it was cold. I would turn the car on to warm up and it would screech for any where from few seconds to about 1 min. when i got hotter it would only do it for a couple of seconds. the gas was low so i went ot put gas in the car and after i was driving it on the highway and it cut off on me. first the tow guy said it was the fuel pump or filter or strainer but it was one of those. I had it towed to my house and a mechanic friend said it was the t-belt not the fuel pump. i just want to know what could it be . I have a 1998 mercury villager with about 170,000 miles...
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96 Mercury Villager: moaning sound, breaking effect at same time..what? Everything is well maintained. There is obviously something that has been missed.
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Yesterday, i changed the spark plugs, spark plug wires, mass air flow sensor, air filter and replaced the in and out take coolant lines in the throttle body.
Before yesterday, i got random misfire codes that would clear and return, i have no a/c, i believe the thermostat needs replacing as the van runs hot after a while of running and quickly when idling and the upper radiator hose is hot. The van's idle is rough to the point that some one else turned up the idle so it would stop stalling so frequently, especially in reverse. it stalls very very rarely now.
then a few days a go i got a knock sensor code that clears itself and then returns.
A friend changed the distributor cap, and noticed some melting and corrosion, hence the spark plug and wire change. this friend also pulled the wiring harness for the front 3 injectors while it was running. the one on the far right created no audible engine change (also this spark plug was immaculate compared to the others), so he said it is bad (or is my friend a moron?)i had also noticed a coolant hose that would spray coolant when really hot.
So yesterday i tackled the above. In the process of doing this i had to rip the other coolant hose to remove throttle body, i replaced these with a self cut piece of 1/2 heater hose. after removing throttle body, i realized i needed a gasket. so got one of those.
a few notes:i used antisieze lube and dielectric lube on spark plugs, thread and ceramic respectively. the mass air flow sensor is used.i cleaned the throttle valve with brake cleaner (non chlorinated) because it was nasty! i did not remove the cables attached to throttle body, just moved it out of the way while working.i hand tightened everything.there were 2 skinny hoses i disconnected, one with a metal tip that went in to the large rubber air intake hose, and one that ran into the throttle body (this hose ripped like a 1/4 inch off it seemed long enough, so i did not replace). i disconnected the large air intake hose at 3 spots with pipe clamps.i disconnected 3 wiring harnesses 2 at throttle body and 1 at mass air flow sensor
Now, it seems the van is running smoother while getting gas, but rougher when idling. What did i miss? what would be causing a rougher idle? I am now at work, i will not be home till around 9 cst. So I cannot check anything.the van did throw another code, but i have not checked it yet.
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2000 Mercury Villager. Noise in the left front wheel area only. Listened to both sides and zero noise on the right side. It's a metallic scraping noise. It's increase frequency as you speed up much like a train does as it speeds up. And stops when you push on the brakes. Doesn't seem to be related to steering.
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The shifter goes into the incorrect gear for what is showing on the dash.
For example:
A little left of Park = Park
Park=Reverse
Reverse/Neutral/Drive = Neutral
A little right (almost gear 2) of Drive = Drive
Once I have found the gear and the shifter is set, the handle has enough play in it that allows it to rest over the correct slot.
It started after I put the car into neutral from drive without pulling the handle back but instead just pushing it to the left. When I went to put it back into drive, it was still in neutral.
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1994 Mercury Villager, driving about 10 miles to work this morning I noticed the temp gauge sitting just under the H at about the 8.5ish mile mark. All driving is on city streets from 25-35mph. When I noticed the temp I turned on the heater hoping to assist with bringing the temperature down. The air coming out was mostly cold occasionally pushing out slightly warm for a few seconds.
I got to work and checked the hoses for a leak, squeezing both the upper and lower hoses they felt empty. I added about 1-2 cups of water to the radiator and it would take no more. Started the car up and the supply hose firmed up while the return hose still felt empty. Left it like that until the end of my shift.
Started the car up and checked for any leaks, all fluids appeared to me to be topped off and I could see no leaks. Started to make the trip home and at about the 7 mile mark the temp gauge drifted out of normal. Turned on the heater and the air came out cold. About a mile later I pulled over and shut the engine off for 15-20 minutes. Started it back up and it was sitting in the normal range again, but only for about a half mile and then it started going back up. I finally got it home with the needle between normal and H, maybe closer to H than that. Opened the hood and checked for any leaks. Noticed some anti freeze had come up through the cap on the reservoir. Checked and it was cracked open around the top. The two hoses on the other hand had pressure and were fairly firm/squishy.
Just checked the oil and around the cap on the valve cover and and the oil just looks a little old. (was told by a friend to look for chocolate milk color).
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Every time I fill the gas tank, the car slows to a halt when the needle on the gas gauge reached 3/4 full. It doesn't shut off, but loses power for about 20 seconds, then resumes as normal until the next fill-up. The engine is a 3.3L Nissan.
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I have a 2001 Mercury Cougar 2.5l v6 with 142,000 miles. If I'm in idle, you can feel it discordantly kind of jumping. Guessing it's coming from the engine. When I accelerate, normally from 35-45 mph the engine sputters and is very jerky but then accelerates as normal. I am going through gas more than before. I've replaced the spark plugs and wires and it hasn't fixed.
It runs worse when my AC is on, guessing because it's more stress on the engine. don't know if it's relevant but I have a signal on my dashboard that shows how many miles I have left to drive with the amount of gas I currently have - and it's become way off, is totally inaccurate now. I also know I need an oil change.
Don't know a whole lot about cars, but I can't afford to have my car become out of commission. What the problem would be? The last mechanic I saw said it needs a tune up, but it was expensive so I've been trying things myself first.
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I have a 2000 Mercury Cougar with about 145k miles.
Today I was driving and when I slowed down to come to a stop it acted as if it wanted to cut off by sputtering. As I got down to about 5-10mph the engine shut off (the radio and everything else was still running) I noticed that as I was slowing down right before it shut off, the RPM was going very low, almost down to zero.
I do have check engine, and low coolant level lights on.For the check engine there are a few codes.1. Something with the catalytic convertor2. 02 Sensors3. Transmission slippage4. I think there was something else but I forgot.
I do need new motor mounts. The oil light comes only when I am idle and after driving for a good 5-10min. I changed my oil about a month and a half ago though.The only time there is issues is upon stopping. Driving and acceleration is fine.
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2000 4runner SR5. This problem has been going on for a while, it comes and goes. The truck will start stalling out, sputtering along, then pick right back up. It is like the engine is being choked for gas. It never totally fails, I just lose all engine power for a second or two, then it picks back up. Then, the check engine light will turn on.
I thought the light might be for a gas cap, so I checked that first. Unscrewed the gap and hear a very noticeable "whoosh" air noise, like air getting sucked into the gas tank. After I adjusted the gas cap, the truck starts working as normal, runs great. For a couple weeks or so. Then the same problem. And the same fix has always worked as well - the gas cap trick, thus far, has worked every time (about five times).
I took it to a mechanic and they said the codes are for the throttle and I need a new throttle body for $1500 freakin dollars. I don't doubt the throttle could probably use replacing, but I don't think that's is what is causing this issue. If the throttle was the problem, it doesn't seem like it would be a problem that comes and goes. And why does the gas cap fix work?
Things I have replaced in the few years - fuel filter about a year ago, air filter recently, evap, O2, cat, timing belt, water pump, gas cap (about a month ago). Needless to say, I got a lot of $ into it. Think it could be fuel pump?
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My 2000 Ranger standard 4.0 4x4, started spitting and sputtering the other morning just when i was gone up hills then it would quit doing it. The other evening it got to where it don't idle, missing very bad, and wouldn't even pull itself up a slight grade, and the wife said there was flames and sparks coming out the exhaust. Now it wont even try to start, it just turns over. I put a different coil pack, wires, and plugs, and still nothing. I pulled the gas line off the frame fuel filter and its shooting gas out, and I got gas to the check port on top of the engine.
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