Mitsubishi - Galant :: 2007 - Loud Grinding Noise From Front Brakes
Jan 19, 2011
Driving in snow, braking in this car routinely handles poorly and brakes make a loud grinding sound. It sounds like the front brakes. I just had a brake job from a trusted dealer. I read the thread here on the Honda Accord that reported the same sort of brake problem. The issue is the brakes, NOT tires as that thread suggests. Braking strength is greatly impaired under these conditions. I am very apprehensive about driving in snow, and ready to trade in what is otherwise a fine car.
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So the last week and a half my car has been making a loud noise that sounds like a loud POK when my car accelerates or slows down. I am worried that there is a loose bolt somewhere and that the noise is caused by something shifting under the forces being applied to the wheels.
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I get this loud click noise coming from the front end of my vehicle when I apply the brakes. It seems to happen much more often than not, especially at low speeds. I can only describe it as some sort of loud clicky clanky sound, it's also a single sound, it doesn't go on and on and it only happens when I apply the brakes.
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I have a 1995 850. About a year ago, I suddenly had a loud grinding noise coming from my brakes. It only happened in hot weather and when the brakes seemed to be hot. Also, it only happened when I was coming to a final stop, like the last 10-20 feet. I took my car to my "trusted" mechanic. They diagnosed it as being my front pads and rotors, so they replaced them (they also felt the front vibrating.) NOW the brakes seemed okay after I got it back the second time (no loud grinding noise.)
When I got the car back, the weather was starting to cool since it was nearing winter. My winter weather is like 70's during the day, and during this time, there was no grinding. It's now starting to get hot again, and sure enough, that grinding noise is back, but not as bad as the first time a year ago. Again, it is only when the brakes heat up and I come to a final stop (the last 10-20 feet.) If I break lightly, it won't make that noise, and it takes me driving for about 15 minutes for the grinding noise to start (it sounds like metal on metal and loud.) Also, I don't feel the vibration like I did a year ago. I only drive the streets, and have not been on the freeway since I got the new brakes.
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I just bought this camry recently, it's an 2008 SE 4-cylinder with about 95k on it. Everything is fine on the car with the exception of one thing. Whenever I start it after a prolonged period of it being off, say in the morning or sometimes even having it off for an hour and then starting it again, when I start it, a loud grinding/scrapping noise comes from the front of the car.
This noise lasts for a good 30-60 seconds and as the car picks up speed it disappears. It just happens whenever I start it. Now I'm not sure that if the brakes or jammed or is it something to do with the transmission. I mention the transmission because during the drive, the car seems under a lot of pressure as if towing a large trailer and has trouble accelerating. At times when going downhill, it actually is slowing down as opposed to picking up speed and as soon as I let off the gas the speed drop from significantly.
I know this isn't normal because I used to an 2005 Camry LE 4-cylinder. So I know how the engine and transmission behave.
I took it the dealer recommended mechanic and he said that everything is fine. He's a nincompoop really. I took it to my mechanic and he said that the axle and bearing need to be changed on the passenger side and just the axle on the drivers side. My mechanic is a family friend and is skilled in his trade so I know he's not trying to shaft me.
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I have a 2000 Mitsubishi Galant 4 cylinder with 160,000 miles on it. Been maintained pretty well over the last 7 years of ownership. Recently has started burning oil and I have been putting at LEAST 2 quarts of oil in everytime I refuel. No signs of leaking and the white smoke seems to indicate oil burn. I also commute daily about 80 miles. Is it worth fixing?
Already Tried: Did a 100,000 mile tune up almost 2 years ago and was changning oil and fluids within 1000 miles of recommended change before oil started burning. (About 6-8 months ago it started) Have not taken it to the mechanic yet to see what they suggest.
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I have a 2007 Prius with 130,000 miles on it. I plan to trade in about a year, maybe a little less. I have noticed my brakes grabbing. My mechanic says that the front brakes are sort of grinding and the rear brakes are grabbing. Both are worn, the rear brakes to about 30%, front brakes to 60%. They also say they will probably last out the year. Should I put new brakes on to be safe and to be able to sell the car with new brakes, or should I just wait it out and trade it in with worn brakes?
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Yesterday, I was waiting inline at a fast food drive-thru and noticed that my A/C was not cooling (it was 100 deg outside). I then put the car in park and revved up the engine and then cool air started to come out of my A/C vents. I did that for 2-3 mins, then noticed that my temperature gauge rose almost all the way to the top (it went right under the red). At that point I took off (out of the drive thru), to get some air flowing into the radiator. Sure enough it temperature doped fast. After looking under the hood. I noticed that one of the two fans to the radiator will not turn on. I'm guessing that's what caused the over heating. I am not sure if I did any damage to the engine though, it did run really hot but not to the red mark but a hair line right under it.
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Over the winter, the A/C in my '04 Mitsubishi Galant quit working. It wouldn't blow any cold air at all, but I didn't mind too much since it wasn't hot out. In preparation for a hot NC summer, I took my car to a dealership about a month and a half ago to have the A/C fixed. They replaced the condenser, and the car started blowing cold air, but it would only do so intermittently. Two weeks later, took the car back into the dealership for them to have a look, but it blew cold air during the entire time that the mechanic was looking at it. I specifically asked about the compressor, but he said that it seemed to be fine. Since then, I've been trying to figure out what causes the A/C to stop working.
I haven't been able to find an exact cause, but the A/C will typically blow cold air when the car is not moving or when I am braking. It is also more likely to work if it isn't hot outside (which isn't exactly useful). If I am on the highway, applying the gas, or if it is hot outside, it is much less likely to work. As I am driving, I can hear the A/C click on and off; for example, if I apply the brake, I will hear the A/C click on, and it will blow cold air briefly (around 30sec - 1min or so). To complicate things, recently the A/C has blown fog in addition to cold air. This has happened three times. I'm at a loss for what the issue is...
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Gas is expensive and the empty light wasn't on THAT long so I put off refilling until I had time to swing by a place that is a couple ten cents cheaper per gallon. When the time came to go refill, the car started fine and then sputtered and stalled a before I could turn my car around. Parked the car and in desperation pouted some gas from the lawnmower tank in hoping that it would get me down the street to put some gas in, but it still sputtered and stalled.
So then I got a ride to the gas station to get a few gallons of gas that I knew was made for a car, and funneled it in. The engine still starts fine, sputters for a few seconds and stalls completely off when I start it. I decided to leave it parked for the night and see how things are in the morning. I know nothing about cars and have never had unforseen problems that have forced me to be concerned with how little I know about my 2005 Mitsubishi Galant in particular. My question is: Is something more complicated wrong with my car now that I let it run out of gas entirely, or is this just something that happens after you put gas in a bottomed out tank? Or did I do my engine dirty putting whatever was in my landlord's lawnmower can in my tank?
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My mechanic replaced my oil pump. For some unknown reason.The old oil pump locked and left me stranded on the highway. I bought a brand new one and it was installed. Now (<3months later) the oil pump has gone bad Again. What could be causing this? My mechanic is suggesting that I just change the whole engine. How can I solve this oil pump problem? Is it normal for an oil pump to go bad so frequently? how can I save my car...
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We have had a problem with our check engine light on our 2003 Mitsubishi Galant for a couple years. The light used to go on and off. Our mechanic ran the issue, checked it out, and said that it was not actually a problem with the engine but rather with the indicator light. The light was going off when there was not actually an issue. He told us it would cost about $500 to fix the problem. At the time, we decided it was not worth the money. Two months ago, we brought the car in for an oil change and the light was on. He ran the problem again, and again told us it was not a problem with the engine but with the light.
Unfortunately, it's time to get our car inspected, and the light is still on and has not gone off in two months. Since we did not want to risk getting a fine, we brought it in for the inspection, as as expected, the car failed. The inspector, a different mechanic (our regular mechanic does not do state inspections), said that our mechanic was probably wrong, that the lights do not just break and go off unexpectedly, and there is probably something wrong with the car instead.
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I have a 2000 grand am with 189000 miles and i have replaced both front wheel bearings and all of the struts. I put new brake pads on and rotated tires. I still have a horribly loud grinding noise in the front end of the car. I jacked it up off the ground and took the front wheels off and put the car in drive and the noise is still present. It gets louder the faster i go.
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I have a grinding noise coming from what I believe are the front brakes. It happens when I apply the brakes and sounds like the brake pad is worn out and there's metal-on-metal contact but when I checked the pads, they are at 80-90% (rears have about the same amount left). I hear it the loudest just before coming to a full stop, from about 20 mph down to stop. I thought it was caused by rust on the brakes but after I wore off the rust, the sound is still there.
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We have a Galant with approximately 76,000 miles. Lately, we have noticed that when it rains the car sputters and accelerates really slowly up to 30 mph. Once we get to 30, it acts normal. Sometimes if we turn the car off and then start it again, this problem goes away. My guess is it is something with the computer.
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When driving, no matter what the speed we get intermittent hesitation from the engine. Usually lasts less than 30 seconds. Today lasted 7 miles. Doesn't matter how long I've been driving. Does it whether the car is cold or warmed up. Was told the engine air filter needs cleaning. What this could be?
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About 3 months ago I threw the timing belt on my 2001 Mits Galant ES 2.4L 4cyl. I replaced the belt and 8 valves; costed me a pretty penny. Since that time I was having Idle problems. The Throttle assembly with the Idle Control valve was replaced. I have Cruise control. The car was started, it warmed up and then shut off. Attempts to keep car running on its own have failed. Is it a programming problem? Is it the computer? No codes are returned.
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Coming to a left turn signal I was anticipating it turning red on me, and I drove into the turn lane briskly 30mph and then applied brakes as I made a u-turn. It sounded like a cross between dragging the front air dam and metal on metal brake grinding as I made the turn. Stopped immediately and did not scrap the air dam and all front end components checked out, okay. Car is driving just fine now, has only done this once.
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I am getting concerned with the steering of my car due to a rather unsettling behavior that has developed within the last month or so. at first it was barely noticeable but over the last several weeks its become more pronounced and more than a bit unsettling.
This issue occurs under two conditions accelerating on a steep upward incline or accelerating to highway speeds / passing. The severity of the problem seems to be a factor of how much torque is being applied to the wheels.
When I accelerate hard the car feels like its pulling slightly to the left but as soon as I let off the gas the car seems to jerk suddenly to the right.
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On my way to the grocery store my car's RPMs started to pulse up and down (between 1 and 2) when driving. While stopped at the red light it would vibrate very hard. When i put it in park the RPMs would rise fast before i shut it off. It did the same things on the way back home plus the check engine light came on. A few hours later i put a little oil in it and drove it around my neighborhood and it didn't do any of the things it did that morning.
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My Galant is having the above problem. I am providing some details (below) related to the problem: a) Check engine light was on. I took to a repair shop. The code was non specific. They did engine tune-up. The problem was not fixed. b) I took to Mitsubishi. They could not find any specific problem. They recommended changing CAM sensor. After replacement, problem still remains. c) Recently the car doesn't want to start. Check engine light is gone. Revving is still there at start and during stops. d) I have noticed some of the coolant splashing out to the adjacent tubing during driving. The coolant chamber is empty. But the engine heating indicator is in the middle.
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