My car's an 04 Mitsubishi Lancer ES, 4-cyl, 2.0L. So long story short, my check-engine light has been coming up every now and again for the last couple months with the code P0421, which a shop has confirmed I need a new manifold catalytic converter for (they ruled out any problems with O2 sensors).
View 2 RepliesI have a 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer ES (110,000 miles) that is working perfectly with just minor, small hiccups. A few months ago I took the temperature control console off (the giant plastic piece on the dashboard that has the ac/heater controls and knobs) to replace the wires because the fan level knob was stuck. That was successful.
However, a few weeks later the AC button is stuck on (green light on). The AC light will not turn off no matter what. I've tried to take the plastic piece apart and even unplugged the console to take a look at the actual button itself and it all seemed to be alright (im no mechanic). I've tried pushing it a hundred times, in different sequences, anything you can imagine - will not turn off. As a result, we have no heat.
Was it my fault? Did I do something? I don't know. What do you gentlemen think? I've been told that the blend door is stuck but this is a Mitsubishi and every part of it screams "Don't touch me!" so I'm slightly scared of going too far into the dashboard.
I just bought a 2000 VW passat with 63k. I had it for a week and check engine light came on. 30 v engine ....
p0431 /16815 bank 1 below threshold??
p0421/16805 bank 2 below threshold??
Cat? or 02 sensors???
I own a Lancer Evolution X and I've been having a strange issue where, when accelerating around 2500-3500 rpm a thick cloud of blueish smoke starts pouring from the exhaust for about a second or two accompanied by a loss in power. The smoke stops quickly and then it runs like normal. This only happens once in a while for a second or two. When idling there is no smoke. Or at Wot. There is no coolant mixing with oil. The oil was recently changed with the proper oil. and it still happens once in a while. I checked the turbo and there is no shaft play or oil inside of it. There is no loss of boost. Although I did see a tiny pool of oil near the turbo inlet and some more oil coating the inside of the intake pipe. is it possible that the turbo just sucks up some oil that collects at the end of the intake? the PCV line which connects to the intake appears to be letting some oil into the intake.
View 7 RepliesI've got a 2008 Mitsubishi lancer. I've noticed a gradual vibration coming from the front suspension. At first I could just hear it, but now I can feel it in my steering wheel and a little in my pedals. It doesn't vibrate when I accelerate, nor does it vibrate (too badly) when I brake, but when I'm holding the speed consistent, or letting off the accelerator is when I really feel it. I also feel it when I turn the wheel slightly to the left, but once I get past this (maybe 5 degree turn) threshold it stops vibrating. I was thinking a wheel bearing or CV joint, but wanted to confirm.
View 3 RepliesI loaned my car to a friend for 2 days. While driving, she allowed it to run out of gas. The check engine light came on as soon as gas was put into the tank and has never gone off. I now need to get inspected, but afraid it will not pass. Someone said to put "Garanteed To Pass" in the gas tank. I have never had any problems with this car. I am the original owner, and I keep the oil changed and the filter clean. The car runs perfectly with 120K miles! What should I do?
View 8 RepliesMy check engine light has been coming on and off and it seems to show P0420 for catalytic converter. The light stays off for about a week and it'll come on for a day or two and off again.
Wouldn't a failed converter stay failed? Can P0420 be triggered by loose/bad gas caps?
Replaced a bad clutch on a 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer. I have been unable to bleed the slave cylinder after replacing both it and the master cylinder. I suspect either the slave cylinder is bad, or I put the incorrect throwout bearing in when the clutch was replaced. The slave cylinder is located inside of the bell housing
View 5 RepliesThe check engine light has been coming on and off over the last month...SO, I replaced the MAF which I thought was the code 17550. After a couple hundred miles the check engine light came on again. SAME code, 17550 again...my tech is baffled.
View 10 RepliesI bought a 2005 Volvo V70 with 75,500 miles on Nov. 13. On Nov. 15, the check engine light went on, and I returned to the dealership for a solenoid replacement. The check engine light went on again on Nov. 17, oil pan replaced. On Nov. 19, the light went on again, timing belt replaced. On Nov. 22, the light went on again. Each time the code was the same--sometimes in conjunction with other codes--but one code was consistent. We returned the car on Nov. 22 and asked for a refund in keeping with the Massachusetts lemon law (an attempt at repair 3+ times). The dealer refused, saying the check engine light and computer code were not the same as an attempted repair. He took the car and said he was going to call Volvo Tech in. However, he says the light "went off" and never came back on even though his staff has test driven it 170 miles in the past three days. He's "releasing our car" to us, even though he has made no repair. Tell me--is trying to address the same computer code considered a "repair"?
View 13 RepliesWe have had a problem with our check engine light on our 2003 Mitsubishi Galant for a couple years. The light used to go on and off. Our mechanic ran the issue, checked it out, and said that it was not actually a problem with the engine but rather with the indicator light. The light was going off when there was not actually an issue. He told us it would cost about $500 to fix the problem. At the time, we decided it was not worth the money. Two months ago, we brought the car in for an oil change and the light was on. He ran the problem again, and again told us it was not a problem with the engine but with the light.
Unfortunately, it's time to get our car inspected, and the light is still on and has not gone off in two months. Since we did not want to risk getting a fine, we brought it in for the inspection, as as expected, the car failed. The inspector, a different mechanic (our regular mechanic does not do state inspections), said that our mechanic was probably wrong, that the lights do not just break and go off unexpectedly, and there is probably something wrong with the car instead.
Got these codes after my check engine light came on.Cleared the light with my OBD2 scanner several time but it kept coming back on. One week at the dealer who replaced a 'sensor' after vegging it and talking to the VW Tech line! Light came back on the same day I picked up the Touareg from the dealer :confused. Dealer thinking about what to do next.
2007 FSI V8 Touareg...
From time to time, the engine lights comes on with error code P0365, it usually disappears within two days (it disappears by itself), but it appears once per month and stays for two days.
The code scanner says :P0365 Camshaft Position Sensor B Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1)
Do I need to change the sensor? and where is it located?
my Sonata is 2009, 2.0L (Korean imported) 4 cylinder ...
I have a 99 Ford Explorer - w/217k miles. (2nd owner) .. I got an oil change 3 weeks ago, tune up 2 mos ago, and new brakes/tires within the last 6 mos, oh, and Brother-In-Law just recharged my a/c last week.
Runs well, and I hope to keep it for another few years, but having problem lately.
Check Engine light keeps coming on - I've taken it in, and they read the code, and it comes up with a misfire. Mechanic resets it, and it will stay off for a few days/weeks, and then comes back on.
I have a 2003 Prius, I had an accident and after it was fixed the check engine light started coming on. It would go off after a couple of days. The first time I took it to Autozone and the codes were P3150 & P3130, but the next day the check engine light went off. A couple of days later the light came back on....went back off....next week it stalled on the highway, but it started back up, now the codes it's reading are P1636 and P3002. It still starts up and will drive, but I'm afraid to drive it.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1997 Mitsubishi Galant with 134400 miles. Filled up the gas tank, driving home and the check engine light is on. Checked the fluids and found out that the engine oil is empty. Due for an oil change soon. Last mechanic used an expensive oil. Do expensive oils burn quickly? Mechanic said that cheaper oil change uses cheap oil...
View 8 RepliesI have a 2002 Lancer with just over 150K miles. So far, he's been pretty solid. He starts when I want him to and stops when he is supposed to. Last summer his A/C started acting up a bit. When I am in stop-and-go city traffic, everything is fine. As soon as I get on the highway and am cruising at any speed for more than 15 minutes, the A/C stops blowing cold air and just blows as if I just had the fan on, but not the A/C. If I slow down and then accelerate pretty quickly and can make him shift through a few gears, the A/C will kick back in. At first I just thought I was getting some attitude from him (his name is Miles - pretty clever for a car name, huh?) because I moved him from NW Arkansas to the Gulf Coast and he didn't like the heat and wanted me to know it. I took him in for a standard oil change and had the mechanic run an A/C diagnostic. I didn't tell him of any problem I was having because I thought it might work itself out (stranger things may have happened). He told me everything looked good: good compression, blowing at 41 degrees, something else I forgot...anyway Miles passed his A/C test.
The mechanic did tell me that the battery would need to be changed soon. Well in my highly-trained mechanic mind (I have a degree in Art History; that tells you how vast my knowledge is about all things with engines), I thought, "OK, when I replace this battery, that'll give the A/C some more power and everything will be hunky dory.? Not quite. He's still having the same problem. So my next thought was that maybe a fan belt could be slipping or stretching when I'm maintaining a constant speed. Maybe? Occasionally all the backlit instruments lose their lighting. They all come back on, but it doesn't coincide with the timing of the A/C issues. The "Service Engine Soon" light has been on for a while and the "SRS" light will come on every now and again, but that doesn't jive with the A/C timing either. But, that's the story of Miles.I'd like to keep him for another 150K if possible.
I just picked up a 2011 Ford F350 about 8 months ago. I have had troubles with the check engine light coming and going. Now it's been on for good with loss of power. I have had the codes read and they came up as the p0401 and a code about the def heater. I can not remember that code off the top of my head. After some searching I have found a video about the def heater but nothing about the Egr cooler/valve. Is there anything out there about how to clean and remove the the cooler as I will be needing to do repairs myself as the truck has no warranty.
View 10 Replies08 RX350 with ~100K miles. Two weeks ago the Check Engine/TRAC light were on, VSC light blinks, so I tightened the gas cap, and pull the negative and cleared the code. Hoping this is just a gas cap issue.
2 weeks later all those lights are back again, so my mechanic pulled the code and came up with P0128. He told me it should be the problem with the Coolant Temperature Sensor. The water pump, thermostat was replaced last year and coolant level is OK. No issue with coolant temperature and the car drives like normal. My mechanic cleared the code and told me to drive it again until the lights come back and he will pull the code again.
08 RX350 AWD
08 Avalon Touring
I own a Mitsubishi Lancer 2005 model, From the past recent days I feel some kind of missing with the car, when we try to accelerate it. It seems to be some kind of fuel injection issues. I think doing a fuel injection service would be better. I didn't have much knowledge about car repair.
View 6 Repliesi have a 2004 Mitsubishi lancer es 2.0 engine, and it's an automatic. I seem to consistently get a little under 23 mpg no matter how i drive. I've noticed that when going down the highway at 65 mph, it is at like 2900 RPM, is this normal? We also own a 2010 toyota corolla 1.8 auto and it only revs like 2400, and a 2005 xB that revs the same as the corolla, i'm just confused that with a bigger engine, it would rev so much higher.
View 6 Replies