Nissan - Maxima :: 1983 - Slow To Shift Into High Gears / Works Best With Full Tank
Sep 27, 2014
My car is in great condition. 70,000 miles and I am the second owner. Every time I take it to a mechanic they can't believe how good the engine looks. But there is a mystery problem. I have been dealing with what seems to be an air leak or pressure issues. After driving for a while the car has a lazy start after a stop. The first few gears seem to not catch. If fells like there is a block in a line and it's trying to push through air or fuel to get to the 3rd gear. I have noticed on colder days the timing belt screeches a bit. When in high altitudes this problem is worse! After my last oil change they noticed a leak. Also the dipstick for my transmission fluid is broken. Although I check it regularly and that seems to be just fine. I want to get to the bottom of this!
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My 2001 altima wont shift to high gear. driving around town seems to be ok, will driving on the highway be dangerous?
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So i have this Porsche and is been passed down and how to fix it like battery and everything is nice i mean I'll work on engine next but the actual stick that changes gears can actually pop out and i mean i can still change gears it's just is there a way to make the stick stay in there.
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I own a 2003 Nissan Maxima SE with a 6-speed manual transmission. The car has just under 113,000 miles on it. I've religiously maintained the vehicle per the owner's manual and overall it is in excellent condition. In particular, we change the oil on a regular basis per the maintenance schedule. However, on several occasions we have started to hear rattling coming from the engine. The rattling occurs at all engine speeds and in all gears and it doesn't matter whether the car has just been started or if the engine has been running for a while.
When the rattling has gotten more prominent, we've taken the car to the dealership and also to our local oil change place and on both of those occasions, they've told us that the engine oil was VERY low. Also on both of those occasions, we were well within the recommended range in between oil changes (<3000-3500 miles). We have not noticed leaking oil in our driveway or in our garage. I am wondering about the potential reasons why we could be losing oil, and if we aren't seeing any in our driveway where it's going? I've mentioned this to friends and they've said it's 'burning oil' - but we're not noticing any strange smells or smoke. The car is ~10 years old but it's fun to drive and in great condition.
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When I fill the car with fuel, the check engine light will come on and stay on until I reach about 3/8 of a tank. Then it goes off until the next time I fuel. I have replaced the sending unit and gas cap to no avail. Any thoughts?
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I have a 2002 Nissan Maxima SE (Automatic) it just started to run rough and has been drinking gas at an alarming rate. Almost 1/2 tank in about 60 miles. The car doesn't seem to be running slow or smelling of gas. I was told it was fuel injection issues and have added some cleaner but I am shocked with how bad it go so quickly. I had two motor mounts replaced in the car recently (the front one a day before this started). Would they have knocked something out of wack?
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2002 Nissan Maxima with 118K miles. Heating and A/C buttons that turn the fan on different levels doesn't work. It will cut on/off but the setting can be on low and it always blows on high. The temp. is correct(heat or cold) on what we set...it just always blows on high no matter what we set. It is a bush button kind of setting not a dial that you turn.
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I have a 2002 Nissan Maxima with 118K that the heating and a/c fan always blows on high. Even when you turn everything off. I've been told it's the blower motor resistor. Is there anyway to check with a volt meter before purchasing new one? Once I buy the new one I don't think I can return
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I have a 2004 Nissan 350Z. During the first few years of the car, I always had a gas gauge that read correctly. Then, I had a recall notice about the gas tank. I took it in and got the part fixed. Now, my gas gauge does not read correctly. It rarely shows that it is full. In fact it looks like the needle "floats" up and down when I have driven it and used some of the gas.
Another thing I noticed is if the tank reads below 1/2 a tank and I go in to fill the tank, then start the car up, it looks like the needle just "sticks" and then jumps to almost full. I have put in some gas cleaners to see if that would work and it does a little but two things I would like to know:
If I decide to get this fixed, what is it that I should call this problem? When I mention it to the mechanics, they always act like I am nuts or they have never heard of this problem.
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I have a 95 F250 with 7.5 and E4OD. I was towing my Jeep and trailer out for the weekend a few months back (its been parked since) and heard some noise coming from the trailer. So at a stop light I put it in park with the engine running for a second, went to put it back into drive and it hasn't gone back into drive since. Reverse works perfectly. Fortunately I was able to back up onto the center divide, unload my Jeep and back the truck onto the trailer and tow home with my buddies Chevy. Anyways, its been dead since. Where I can start to look? None of the forward gears work at all.
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The A/C in my 2001 Nissan Pathfinder (~153,000 miles) only works on high as of this afternoon's commute. This seems like a common problem on older cars - what's the typical cause? Googling just gives me all sorts of answers and I would like to have some background before calling our mechanic.
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I've got a 2003 Xterra, RWD, manual transmission, with around 110k. It's been giving me a little trouble shifting into gears 1-3 when the weather's below 30F. It started doing this when I got the transmission fluid changed last, about 2 years ago. I took it back to the mechanic who fixed it immediately, and he changed the fluid a second time for free, but when the problem persisted, he said he had no idea. Needless to say, I haven't gone back to him. Since then, I've tried to ignore it (not too hard in sunny NC), but it's getting worse and I'm about to move to Chicago, so I think I should fix it before I move to the land of harsh winters. My first guess would be the tranny fluid weight might be a little low and I should try a heavier weight.
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2003 Nissan Xterra 2.4. It grinds when I shift gears, gears through 2nd thru 5th.
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Drove a new 1.8T VW Passat last night. 170hp/184ftpd torque. Huge difference! My Camry feels totally underpowered now. Also the transmission seems to shift into high gears way too early. Had reprogram recall done and shifting was better for a little while but now is back to being the same as before.
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My transmission had no slipping was running fine . Oil level was ok , recently added 1/2 quart , cause it has some small leaks. I go to drive away other day and none of the drive gears or reverse would engage. Mechanic thinks transmission locked up . Kind of hard to condemn my old baby considering it was running fine .
Would the TCC solenoid do this or the ECU ? I recently reinstalled the bar going to starter that was disconnected for 5+ years because i was having slow crank issues. This transmission problem occurred 2 days later. I am thinking it might have made the ECU unit go bad , since the starter had not a good ground for so long ?
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I Have a '83 Datsun 280zx and most of the electrical system doesn't work! I've checked the fuse link, ignition switch, fuse panel.
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I have an old 83 datsun pickup. It is my first car and I love it and it has more character than most people that I know. one day it just started leaking antifreeze. I looked under the hood and could see a steady leak way down on the bottom driver's side of my engine. What's the problem and how can I fix it? No matter what, getting rid of this car is not an option.
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I have a 1983 Nissan Sentra with a Hitachi carburetor. The fuel in the float bowl seems to drain completely after sitting for 48 hrs. Is this normal? If not, what is the solution to preventing this fuel loss?
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I recently bought my grandfather's old F-150, its a 1983 model with the 351w and the 7200VV carb. I replaced the distributor cap & rotor, plugs, wires, and fluids. The truck idles just fine in park/neutral, but when I shift it into reverse or drive, it stalls out. There is a valve of some kind attached to the carburetor, and it opens and closes rapidly as the truck dies (in time with its sputtering) so I think it may be the cause of the problem. I have not been able to find much info on that carburetor, but I think that valve is a fuel temperature system that meters the amount of fuel going to the carb depending on is temp. Can I replace that part without having to replace the whole carburetor?
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I have a 2011 Nissan Maxima SV that has poor gas mileage. I took it to Nissan to get checked out but they said there's nothing they could do because the car is showing no codes or no check engine light. I got my spark plugs changed, it seemed like it worked but a week or so later, it went back to how it was (the gas mileage). 2 weeks later, my mechanic checked the spark plugs in front of me, no rust or leaks on them. I burn a half tank of gas every 2 days and that's just driving local to work and back.
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The ac compressor on my 2003 Maxima keeps going out. Mechanic says the replacements are refurbrished, as the new ones are hard to find and expensive. 143,000 on the car.
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