Nissan - Maxima :: 1993 - MAP Sensor Replaced / Hard Shifting From 1st To 2nd Gear?
Sep 1, 2015
The car wouldn't start ( just cranked a lot) I had the car towed to a local mechanic. He replaced the MAP sensor and now I've noticed 2 new problems.
1) engine idle rpms are erratic. When the car is started RPMs are at 1,500 after a few minutes they drop to normal range of 700 to 900 RPMs sometimes they drop too low and the car stalls. sometimes the RPMs surge up and down from 800 to 1,200 rpms.
2) very hard shift from 1st to 2nd gear. All the other shifts are normal. He said that he adjusted the RPMs because they were too high. I don't know how he did that because I thought that you couldn't adjust them because they are controlled by the computer.
Some other info, it has an exhaust leak (which Im going to fix) upstream of the O2 sensor, where the resonator connects to the headers. I replaced a rear brake line and while bleeding the lines I got brake fluid on the ABS wheel speed sensors. I replaced the coolant bypass hose and got water all over part of the engine compartment. It was immediately after I replaced that hose that the car wouldn't start.
Could the exhaust leak be the cause of the erratic idle rpms? Could water have gotten in a wire connector or shorted something out when I replaced the bypass hose? The bypass hose is directly above the transmission. My biggest concern is the hard shifting from 1st to 2nd gear.
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My 1993 Maxima at times will not start. There is no rhyme or reason for it not starting. Either that or I have not found a particular reason or reasons for why it will not start. Sometime it is over night and at times it may happen when it sat for a couple of hours. Took it to a garage which they check the battery, starter, ignition switch, starter relay and all was okay.
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1993 Nissan maxima
The battery went dead so I put a new battery in and a few days later I had the hood open and I had my wife start the car. I heard a loud cracking sound and saw a large bright blueish flash above and between the starter solenoid and the body of the starter.I had my wife turn the car off and start it again and it did the same thing again.
What the heck is going on?
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My daughter has a 1993 maxima SE (3.0 DOHC) that ran ok until one day when she left work and started the car it was running very rough (missing and sputtering). She had the car towed here and I looked it over,it had a lot of visible problems which I have fixed (cracked coil packs,leaking valve cover gaskets, filthy fuel filter,clogged pcv valve, oil saturated air filter,spark plugs burned down to nubs etc, I replaced all those obviously defective parts) but the car still idles very rough, idles too low RPMs (400-500 rpms), exhaust smells like raw fuel and it only gets 5 miles to the gallon on my last test drive.
I removed the intake manifold to get to the rear fuel injectors to see if they might be stuck open and leaking.The car had been sitting for about 5 days with the battery disconnected and when I removed the first injector there was no fuel in the injector or the rail and no pressure in the rail.I left the injector out overnight and the next morning there was fuel all over the top of the engine and in the fuel rail.I put the injector back in and unbolted the rail,I reconnected the battery and turned the key to start the fuel pump.I waited for about 3-4 minutes and did not see any fuel leaking from the injectors.I turned the key off and removed it from the ignition,disconnected the battery and bolted the fuel rail back down.I again removed one of the injectors and there was no fuel in the injector or the rail and no pressure in the rail.After about 2 minutes, with the key out of the ignition and the battery disconnected,I saw fuel start filling the rail and the injector port, so I quickly put the injector back in.
I`m thinking the next step would be to replace the fuel pressure regulator and recheck the injectors for leaks.Am I on the right track here with the pressure regulator? What could be causing the car to suddenly start acting this way, my daughter said the car ran fine on her way to work ( although I hardly think it could have been running "fine" with cracked coil packs,clogged air filter,worn plugs etc)...
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1993 Nissan Maxima. Great little car except when engine gets warmed up it begins to run rough and dies. At idle, when accelerating, while maintaining speed. Since its a manual it is a simple matter of dropping into neutral and it fires right up again... no problem. Then stall repeats. Went through routine steps checking plugs, filters, wires, sensors etc.. The O2 sensor (only one) is gone - as is the converter. At some point someone replaced it with a straight pipe.
After not finding a obvious answer, I began to ask around (auto-part stores, neighbors, some patrons at the saloon). Conclusion... OBD failure causing a "kill" routine which shuts off the engine. When I restart, it resets. Once it fails to enter a static state (engine is warm) it kills again. I replaced the computer with a used one "known" to operate (so the e-bay seller said) Installed it and bingo, car ran like a top for 15 full minutes - best ever. Then after 15 minutes or so, suddenly began to run rough and stalled twice before I got back home. I runs now just as before (but oh those glorious 15 minutes).
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I just recently replaced all 4 struts on a 2003 Nissan maxima with 144k and the front are fine its just the back drivers side it makes a clunk every time I hit a big pot hole or a medium sized bump the shocks are doing there job the car feels great its just I have excessive noise the top strut mount nuts were torqued in place and so was the bottom. When I put my hands on the rear driver side quarter panel and start bouncing the car it makes no sounds its only when I start driving. The strut came with the bump stop the only thing I reused was the spring and mount and bushings in between but I took pics of the strut before I compressed it and took it a apart everything is where it supposed to be I'm puzzled...
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I've been having issues with my car, i took it to Orielly's & they ran diagnostics, one of the codes said a recommended fix was replace the MAF sensor. Today I took it by an auto shop for them to look at, and the guy said it was my catalytic converter, and I mentioned the MAF sensor, he said fixing the CC would take care of the MAF sensor malfunction. So I have a couple questions...
1. Is what he said correct?
2. If you have a bad CC, does it ever NOT smell bad?
Bc I've never smelled anything other than stinky exhaust, never any rotten egg smell.
It's a 98 Nissan Maxima, 6 cyl. it has 265K miles.
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OK so my 2003 Nissan maxima is hard to start all the time after its been sitting for a few minutes like 30min or more also I'm getting a CEL light.
See the video : [URL] ....
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OK so when I'm driving on freeways or highways and I have to break hard for some reason my steering wheel always pulls in some direction I don't want it to go. forcing me to hold it straight I've lived with this problem for a while but I'm doing 500 miles trips this weekend in the car and am concerned about if I had to brake at higher speeds etc., what might cause my steering wheel to pull left and right... 2003 nissan maxima ...
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I bought a 2003 nissan maxima with 135k and it had a p0300 it had a performance k&n filter on it so i though someone might have installed it wrong or what ever so i bought the car cheap. i have replace the k&n filter with a stock 2000 nissan maxima air box with new filter i got from the junkyard it worked for the misfire calm down a little then i bought the car to a mechanic and he said because of my hard starting it could be a cam senor or crank senors so I've replaced that still no luck then he pulled out the spark plugs and they were sooty black but when i bought the car i checked and they were brand new so i swap them out with ngk platinum spark plugs then work a little but still same problem. i had a p0302,p0304,p0306 when i clear the p0300 but usually its all ways a p0300, its been a month and I am still driving like this.
SYMPTOMS:
Hard starting after 20 mins of sitting
I can smell gas from the driver seat when i start the car and open the window
Exhaust air isn't smooth but in pops
Getting like 14-15 mpg in city
When stopped at a stop light i can feel the car misfiring
WHAT I HAVE REPLACED:
Front bay 3 ngk spark plugs cylinders 2,4,6
Cylinder 4 coil
Air box
Cam sensor and crankshaft senor
Coolant temperature sensor
Battery
[URL] ....
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I've found a bad engine mount over the passenger front wheel I'm replacing (why they had to put the 5th nut holding the mount underneath the mount instead of on top like the rest, i'll never know. drilling that out and replacing with a bolt and nut on top to fix that and going to slap an engineer). There's no wheel balance issues or wobbly wheels when up on the lift. Recently replaced my spark plugs, could it be a misfire that causes this when the engine is being pushed past 3K rpms?
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I have a nissan maxima 2000 that sputters and the problem is getting progressively worse. If I am at a stoplight or just stopped with the drive gear on the car sputters. It skips almost every second, but if i put in in park the it runs smoothly. Now I notice that it is sputtering even when I am driving( it was not doing it before). I have already changed the sparkplugs and cleaned the injectors. Now I am debating whether i should change coils and boots. The repair is quite expensive so i want to make sure I am doing the right thing.
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I bought a '93 F150 4x4 this past Sunday. It has the 5.8 and E4OD. Yesterday when I started it up and drove to the tire shop for some wheel balancing, it shifted VERY hard with each shift, so hard that it concerned me. I know very little about transmissions in general, and this one specifically, aside from it being electronically controlled.
This afternoon, I drove it again and it seemed to be shifting more "normally" without shifting anywhere nearly as hard as it did yesterday. What I should check first? I bought a filter kit and will change the filter/fluid (including torque converter) as soon as I'm able.
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I drive a '93 Toyota T100 with a manual transmission. Up until recently things were going great but I've noticed it is damn near impossible to shift from reverse back into first gear when I'm pulling out of my driveway. I've also found that shifting from first gear to second has become more difficult as well though not impossible. However if I'm shifting to third, fourth, or fifth gears I don't have any problem whatsoever. I had the transmission redone about a year ago after the clutch gave out so I'm hoping its not that.
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1993 Transport 3.8 L
Starting out from stop it seemed to get noisy and was very late shifting to 2nd. Slowed down and tried again; this time it did not want to shift to 2nd at all. Brought it home slowly.
Trans fluid was right up. I did another road test, running it manually through the gears so I could easily hear and feels the shifting. 1-2-D-OD perfect; did this twice of thrice. Starting out from stop on the highway a couple times, it shifted up perfectly. I did some kick-downs and manual shifting; everything is working fine.
Could this have been a linkage problem? Could running it manually through all the gears smarted up the linkage or something? Could it be related to the 'modulator valve'?
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My Ranger had been shifting hard for quite awhile. I recently opted to go ahead and replace the clutch, throwout bearing, had the flywheel turned and replaced the pressure plate.
This just seemed to make the problem slightly worse. I thought it was possible that my master cylinder needed to be replaced (the slave was replaced two years ago and didn't appear to be leaking when I had the tranny off). I replaced the master cylinder and now the clutch won't disengage at all. I've spent several days trying different things to bleed the clutch, and I just can't get it to bleed. I took it back off and bench bled it, then put it back on and bled through the whole system. This isn't working. I've tried numerous suggestions-jacking up the back end of the truck, jacking up the drivers side of the truck, I even bought a vaccuum bleeder and used it for 2 hours just having an assistant fill up the reservoir while I sucked fluid out the bleeder valve. The best I could ever get was some resistance on the pedal, but not enough to push the disc away from the flywheel.
I took the pickup to Ford, they said they bled it and charged me 90 bucks and still couldn't get the clutch to release
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I have a 1993 4WD Toyota extended cab pickup with 200,000 miles on it that is getting hard to shift into first gear. I have to double/triple clutch run through the gears to get it to shift into first. It is not hard to shift all the time but the issue is getting more and more frequent.
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My 93 Honda Civic (manual T) is starting to be difficult to shift into gear. I mainly notice it when the car is idle and in neutral. I go to put into 1st or reverse and it won't go. I try all gears at that point, and it's the same. When it finally does go, it's a loud thud-like noise. People around look over at me! It doesn't happen every time, but I am noticing it more and more. And it's a bit scary when I have been at an intersection or something and I can't get moving. It has 189k. I have also noticed that the car is loud, too, when I am in reverse up our driveway and the clutch is slightly depressed.
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I started my car the other day and found that it only drives the first gear and I can also put it in reverse. VCDS gave me a 00281 code saying no signal from Vehicle Speed Sensor G68. I replaced the sensor, but it still doesn't go into gear beyond 1st.
VCDS gives me the following codes after replacing G68.
2 Faults Found:
00652 - Gear Monitoring
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
00281 - Vehicle Speed Sensor (G68)
03-00 - No Signal
I came across TSB 01-99-02 which says something about the codes being incorrect. It seemed a little vague about whether it is actually G38 or G22. I don't want to buy more sensors only to have it be something else. The speedometer and tach work fine so G22 doesn't seem likely to me.
The VCDS site says it could be several things including bad G68 or G38 sensor, low fluid & bad valve body. Was it the G38 sensor?
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So, I bought an used 2006 Hyundai Azera Limited few days ago. It's clean title and has 86k miles on it now.
After three days from the purchase date, my car starts causing transmission problems, hard shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear only. It's getting worse now...
Now, what should I do? ...
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Have a 2000 expedition with 84,000 miles. Tranny seems to shift hard from first to second gear. Its been 24,000 miles since my last dealer tranny service. Thinking of getting a new service now before the recommended 30,000 manual recommendation. Whats happening?
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