Nissan - Pathfinder :: 2004 - Front Windows Keep Going Down When Engine Is Off
May 31, 2012
I have a 2004 Nissan Pathfinder and the front windows keep going down when the engine is off. It first happened two days ago and then last night as I removed the key from the ignition I would hear clicks like the turn signal and then the windows would just go down. I had to restart the car to roll back up. This happened for almost an hour until I could get the battery disconnected. I originally thought it was the keychain because it wasn't working and then the lights would flash and then windows would go down. We've had alot of rain in south Florida. Could this be the problem? If its electrical, is this an expensive problem?
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I've searched the inter tubes, trying to find out if there is a fuse or relay or even circuit breaker that needs replacing. From all I've checked, I can't find a fuse, relay or circuit breaker labeled to control window and door locks.all 4 windows don't work (with exception to front passenger window occasionally goes down but not up.)finally figured i should have come to this fine forum first! (especially after hearing 'car talk' today)some other pages with similar questions had answers referring to fuse #12 or relay F (mine aren't identified that way). I'm heading out to get a test light -- just so i can see if i can test anything...
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I have a 2002 Nissan Pathfinder 4x4 SE, and I have a strange noise emanating from the front suspension. It's essentially a creaking sound whenever going over speedbumps etc, that lasts only when crossing the bump in question. There is also a distinct ratcheting/popping sound when I more with the wheel at full lock. I've already replaced the front sway bar bushing, recently replaced the struts and springs, lower control arms, and have not noticed any shaking in the tie rods when I try to move them.
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How to stop my Pathfinder from randomly spouting it's alarm? Happens about once a day, I think it only happens when the car is locked but not quite sure.
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I have a 1999 Nissan Pathfinder. It's 4wd with a manual transmission. I was getting an intermittent problem with vibrations coming from the front passenger side wheel when driving on the highway. They recently got worse and I'd notice a slight burning smell coming from the wheel area. There would also occasionally be a metallic clicking/plonking noise coming from the wheel and a slight hissing sound. I took it into a mechanic (not my regular mechanic because he was gone for the week) and they said it has something to do with the transfer case. They said they took the front right tire off after putting it on the rack in neutral, and they couldn't get the to spin freely. They said it could be something with the drive train or transfer case, but they weren't sure without taking it apart. They said it could be something to do with the 4wd not disengaging, but again, they're not sure.
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I have a 2001 Nissan Pathfinder. How do I get to the trouble codes & how do I remove check engine light?
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When cold engine starts on the first attemp 80% of the time, when warm its about 60-70%. Sometimes it take 2-3 attemps to start. But on the second to last attemp the engine will fire very little and then knock off.
So far I replaced the distributor, spark plugs and wires, boost sensor?, fuel pressure regulator, and checked the injector ohms and fuel pressure at the engine with the old pump. After replacing the fuel filter it started fine for a few days, after replacing the fuel pump it started fine for a week. Thus making me believe it's a fuel issue. So I added check valves to the fuel line at the engine, both the supply and return lines. And still few days later it's back.
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I have a 2001 Pathfinder w/ ~190K mile on it. It has been used regularly until this past winter. It has been sitting for about 3.5 months and I'm just now getting it back on the road. The battery has been draining due to non-use but I charge it and the car will start. Today I started it and after running for about 2 minutes the engine quit. When I got in the car I noticed the strong smell of electrical burning but no smoke. I did not notice this outside of the car. Upon trying to restart the car the engine just cranks with no sign of trying to start (as if there's no spark). I suspect something (probably electrical) has failed while it was idling but what it could be.
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'04 Nissan Pathfinder 3.5L ~150k: P0011 and P0021
Friend's vehicle. OBD-II codes indicate Intake Valve Timing Control Bank1 and Bank2. Vehicle drives OK most of the time, but then has lapses of lost power where you step on the gas and the vehicle doesn't accelerate accordingly. RPMs rise, but tranny doesn't seem to shift at the right time. Overdrive button OFF doesn't seem to have any affect. Codes have been erased and returned the next day.
Is this Camshaft-related, as in Camshaft Position sensor? I had this issue with my '97 Taurus, but in that case it threw the code explicitly for the CMP sensor.
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Occasionally and randomly, my front two windows will lower themselves. Most of the time... all the way. But sometimes only half way. Both windows lower at the same time to the same degree. This happens only when parked and unattended, not when the engine is running or someone is in the car. It has happened in parking lots (outside) and also in my own locked garage with no one around. Sometimes the car is locked and sometimes (in my garage) it is unlocked. My Nissan dealer has no idea what is causing this nor how to correct it.
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We have a 1995 Nissan Pathfinder (automatic) that is having trouble starting. We can't find a pattern to when it starts and when it doesn't start so we can't diagnose the problem. When it doesn't start, here's what happens: turning the key, you can hear one soft click. Then nothing. After several or many turns of the key (and the same single click), it finally "catches" and starts. Two weeks ago, the car would not start at all. Even the following day, it wouldn't start. The lights and radio did work. We tried a jump-start and it surprisingly started right up. We immediately replaced the battery, but the problems resumed. The following have been replaced since the problems began: starter, ignition switch, battery, transmission, and the horn for the alarm has been bypassed. Note: with the old battery back in, it does work.
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Our 1999.5 Nissan Pathinder has about 148,000 miles on it. At the end of 2011, we replaced the struts, shocks, and brake pads. We also added a new in-dash stereo with GPS. At the end of 2011, the mechanic recommended replacing the ignition wires, cap/rotor, and spark plugs, all of which were OEM. The mechanic also recommended replacing the power steering belts and serpentine belts, which were cracking. We did not do these repairs in 2011.
At the beginning of February 2012, I drove the car for several miles and then parked for 30 minutes. When I re-started the car, the engine made a thumping sound and the whole car vibrated. The thumping sound was a dull sound (not a pinging). These symptoms occurred in Park. I drove about 100 feet down the parking lot (using both Reverse and Drive) and the thumping sound and vibration continued. I parked and re-started the car. The symptoms continued for about 1/2 mile driving and then went away.
The problem has occurred 2-3 times more. To my knowledge, the problem has only happened when the car has been driven, left standing for 15-60 minutes, and then restarted. Each time the problem goes away shortly after it begins. The third time the problem happened, the "Service Engine Soon" light went on. We took the car to a different garage. The computer showed two codes (Cylinder 2 Misfire, which had been tripped 3 times), and Engine Vibration.
The mechanic recommended doing the service that we had put off in 2011 (ignition wires, cap/rotor, spark plugs, power steering belts, and serpentine belts). The theory was that a misfiring cylinder may have caused the engine vibration. So, we had this service done. The next morning after picking up the car, and again after a short drive, a 30-minute delay, and restarting the engine, the problem happened again. So, it seems that the service did not fix it.
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This is a '96 Nissan Pathfinder with a manual transmission.
On a few occasions, sporadically, over the span of a couple months, my pathfinder wouldn't start on the first turn of the key... but it would on the second or third turn. When I say "wouldn't start," I mean I'd get a single click and that's it... it wasn't trying to turn over and failing. It wasn't cranking at all. The stereo and lights worked fine though.
Then, on two occasions about a week from each other, it failed to start (as above) right after a short drive but started again without issue a couple hours later. On these two occasions, I tried turning the lights on and starting and did not see the lights dim, which would seem to indicate no juice was getting to the start motor at all I guess?
Now, it seems to have just stopped starting altogether. The battery voltage seems fine. A little high even at 15V+ when measured with a multimeter.
Do these symptoms give any strong indications of what the problem might be? If I have a chance of fixing it myself, I'd like to do so. Otherwise, I'd like to have a good idea of what the problem is before having it towed somewhere.
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The A/C in my 2001 Nissan Pathfinder (~153,000 miles) only works on high as of this afternoon's commute. This seems like a common problem on older cars - what's the typical cause? Googling just gives me all sorts of answers and I would like to have some background before calling our mechanic.
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My car recently got a code for the camshaft sensor after my car died in the middle of street and the engine light turned on. I had gotten it replaced. In fact, I had both (left and right) camshaft sensors replaced and we changed out the crankshaft sensor as well. Then, a new problem comes up.
My car does not accelerate as strongly as it used to. In first gear (car is automatic), my car seems to struggle to get in 2nd gear. Imagine the feeling of your car when you keep it in 1st gear (in a stick-shift) and you KNOW that's the point of having to shift into 2nd, but you keep driving anyway. Then, once it does shift gears, my car jolts forward with a big drop in RPM. Imagine the feeling of finally shifting your manual transmission into 2nd gear and feeling that "relief" in the engine as it doesn't seem to struggle anymore. What's worse is that at higher speeds/gear my Pathfinder won't go beyond 4000 RPM. I'm driving at around 65 mph and the car is at 2500 RPM. When it hits 4000 RPM, the RPM just ticks before it and my car stutters back and forth as if I'm playing a beat with my car by hitting the breaks.
An example scenario, I'm driving on the highway and there's a slower car in front of me. I just want to pass the person and be on my way but as I press on the gas, my RPMs don't really increase as it normally would when applying more gas to go faster. Once I do finally get to 4000 RPM, my car starts to stutter or rock back and forth as if hitting an invisible wall. Are there tons of reasons that this could happen?
On the other hand, I tested my car, in park, to see if my engine would rev pass 4000 RPM, and it does. So, the problem presents itself only when I'm driving.
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I have a Nissan Pathfinder 2001 and it only works on settings 1 - 3 . When put on high the compressor turns off and no cool air . Even when turn on , the air is not cool enough. It's pretty hot in Arizona but it should cool off nice but it doesn't . Took it for a check up and it needs just a bit of refrigerant and probably the AC control might need to be replaced. But they weren't sure about it.
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is there a way to check fuel injector to make sure they are working.
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My Nissan Pathfinder (1994) makes a "clunk" sound when I go around tight corners, usually only one "clunk" per turn.
The sound occurs on tight turns at low speed (e.g. on a round-a-bout: [URL] ....) as the weight of the car shifts and leans away from the turn.
The sound seems to come from the front end, near the driver's side wheel.
My mechanic couldn't work out what was wrong. He removed, greased and reassembled the upper driver's side ball joint and then gave up.
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I have a 1998 Pathfinder with around 160,000 miles on it. This week it has had some issues with stalling when I am idling. The first time it happened, I was at a stoplight and it cut out 3 times and I was able to start it back up and drive the rest of the way home (40 miles) with no problem. The next time it started stalling out I was at a stoplight and was able to put it in neutral and rev the engine and it stayed on. I have a 45 mile commute to and from work every day, and I don't want this to happen when I am on the highway going 65mph.
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I have a 2002 Nissan Pathfinder and the Car Key FOB did a strange thing last week. Car is locked, keys are INSIDE the house and [TaTa] on its own, the FOB started to "beep" like when you click it to lock the car, made that kind of sound. Funny thing and wonder if this could be a coincidence, down the street, 8th of a mile away [or less] a house was being built. Could someone have had [maybe] an alarm system or two-way Nextel phone or SOMETHING [???] that could set it off? What can be done about it BESIDES enclosing the FOB in aluminum foil? We did that. Strangely, the beeping has stopped, which gives me the idea that it MAY have been what I suggested in the first place . . . something "signaling" it from wherever to go off!
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2000 Nissan Pathfinder, 150k miles, automaticWhen I accelerate between 2nd and 3rd (from what it feels) the whole car shakes. No matter what speed I'm already at.I recently had both CV axles replaced. Transmission fluid doesn't have any flaky stuff or anything, it's pink though. The check engine light is always on, but it starts to blink when it starts to shake between 2-3 gear.
It's been doing this for about two weeks, nothing has changed, average 15 miles a day. No weird smells from the engine, leaking radiator fluid super slowly (was told to just keep filling it)To start the car I have to press the gas slightly.That's everything I know is wrong with it. I just want the shaking to stop. Does it sound like I need new transmission fluid or something?
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