Oldsmobile - Cutlass :: 1995 - Intermittent Stalling / Shudders And Stalls Upon Restart
Jan 18, 2016
I drive a 1995 olds Supreme 3.1 that has 125,000 miles. It runs like a dream but I have been having one problem I cannot pinpoint a solution for. When started cold, it runs and drives perfectly all day long, no problem. However once it reaches operating temperature and is shut off for a short period of time, it shudders and stalls upon restart. Then it does not restart until the engine is cool. The problem has been intermittent and not as much of an issue during the winter, but as spring approaches I worry it may become a bigger problem.
It has had a recent tune up: new spark plugs, wires, radiator, hoses, fuel filter, fuel pump, air filter, and water pump. This issue existed before all these parts were replaced.
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A friend has a '90 olds Ciera with the 3800 engine. The engine will quit running at a stoplight or almost any idle speed and then will be hard to start. May have to wait a few minutes before it restarts.
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I have 93 cutlass Cierra..6 cylinder..3.3.. when it's fully warmed up it stalls out on me as I'm accelerating from a stop. but then if I wait a minute and re start it it most times will run ok.. and is loosing power sometimes, when fully warmed up she gets bogged down in pressing the accelerator....it won't stall when Idling.. only when fully warmed up when Accelerating....the engine raced the other day as if someone was stepping on the gas when I wasn't.. Only did that once..hasn't did that since.. Service engine light is on..I have new Oxygen sensor, cleaned the maf sensor..new fuel pump and new fuel filter..new plugs and wires and air filter this past summer..
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I have been having an on going issue with my 1990 Oldsmobile. It will randomly stall while I am driving. It has happened while driving at speeds ranging from 25 to 50 mph. It always happens while I am driving, not while I am stopped. First I will feel the engine buck, and then the check engine light comes on. After this, I have about 10 seconds until the car completely stalls out and I have to pull over and attempt to restart. Sometimes it will restart immediately, other times it takes a few minutes. Sometimes when it restarts, the engine will "roar" as if I were pushing the gas down while in park.
Sometimes when I get it to restart, I can continue driving and it will not happen again, but other times it will happen continuously. This has been going on for about 6 months. I have brought it to the shop several times. My mechanic had to drive it around for awhile before it would occur again and he could understand what was going on. I have had the thermostat, alternator, and throttle replaced. After getting all this work done, the problem did not occur for several months...until today.
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Have a '92 Olds Cutlass Ciera 6 cyl 3300 engine. After 20-30 mins of driving it dies when I have to stop for a light. Depressing the brake kills the engine. Starts right up after but as soon as I put it in drive, it dies. If the car sits for 20 mins or so after problem begins it's okay. If I get to an intersection and have to stop, I put it in neutral. When I have to go again I rev the engine, let it die down some and then put it in drive (hard on the car, I know, but it's only way to get going again. Once I'm moving, I can accelerate and it's okay. What is wrong with my car?
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I have a 1994 Oldsmobile Cutlass Cruiser 3.1 with an intermittent engine power loss during acceleration. Usually it occurs just after leaving a stop sign or light once or sometimes twice in a row. It is not a hesitation - it is a very abrupt loss of power. I've kept up on the standard maintenance very well and the car has 80,000 miles, so I would not suspect spark plugs, wires, or fuel filter. It does not have a tachometer, but I am 99% sure the transmission is not slipping or jumping out of gear, but that the engine is actually loosing spark or fuel. This problem is very intermittent, but it has triggered the check engine light a couple of times. The check engine light does not stay on, and when I took it to my mechanic he said to keep driving it until the light stayed on or the problem was more easy to replicate. Right now, if a mechanic went for a test drive, there is a good chance it would not show any symptoms. My mechanic did mention that it may turn out to be an ignition module.
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2003 Prius starts then stalls (shudders bad) then starts right after with no problem.
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3 mechanics can't find what is wrong but when I come to a stop sign or light my car stalls, not every time but a lot. Also, seems to happen more in cold or wet weather. So every time I stop and idle I have to quick put it into park.
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I have a 1995 GMC Sanoma, 2.2 Lt, 4 cyl, 5 spd. It has about 130K miles. Each day I drive it back and forth to work (about 30 miles one way). About 6 months ago I noticed that at about 5 miles into my drive to work it would stutter but then catch itself and go on the rest of the way with no problems. On the drive home it would do the same thing at about 8 miles into the drive. This didn't really bother me until one day instead of stuttering it stalled but I could restart it right away while coasting. It had steadily gotten worse to where I had to pull over on the side of the road and restart because it wouldn't restart right away. Nowadays I hardly drive it at all because I'm afraid it will stall and not restart at all. I have replaced the air idle control, fuel pump relay and the positive battery cable. The symptons now are basically the same but different, I can start it (anytime, morning or evening) and it will idle fine for about 5-10 minutes. It will then start to stutter and try to catch itself, the idle will then rev up to about 1500 and then come back down and stutter some more before stalling. After that it will not start back up until maybe 10 minutes after, (it acts like it is not getting any fuel) but once it starts it runs fine, I drove it around for about 20 miles and it ran real strong. The next day it went through this same cycle again.
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1997 Olds. Bravada. 4.3L original engine. 217000 miles, maintained well (routine oil changes, fluid checks, etc)
Intermittent stalls. When stalling, voltage found to drop to 0 even though radio, headlights, and dash lights remain functional. Engine will sometimes "automatically" return to running (it doesn't turn over, just runs) and the air bag light flashes, other times it needs to be restarted. No problem restarting, but may or may not stall a few seconds later. No specific action triggers the events. On a potential side note, the rear wiper motor will spontaneously start running occasionally (once per week frequency typical).
Attempted fix: cleaned both battery contacts, removed and cleaned frame ground, removed and cleaned body ground, all done with either sand paper and/or a wire brush
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99 olds cutlass, this morning I drove it and the coolant low light came on. Stopped at autozone, grabbed some coolant and tossed some in. Kept driving, light was intermittently on and off. Drove it to work and around noon filled it pretty full with coolant. Drove away at 5pm, no puddle underneath the car. Stopped to get gas, didn't notice any puddle but didn't look closely. Drove it home, parked it, went to get the mail, came back, pretty impressive puddle of coolant leaking from under the car.
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My wife and I have a 1986 Cutlass Ciera with an engine size 4 -151, 2.5L engine with 41,749 original miles. Right after the transmission shifts at around 30-35 mph it locks up (for a lack of a better word.) This lock up can continue to about 40 mph. It feels like it 'misses or hesitates' until I let off the gas and increase speed again by going faster than 40 mph.
The GM service department said there was a recall sometime ago to solve this problem but the fix was only for the larger 4 liter engine and to use this fix would damage the cars engine. They said it was not a transmission problem and that we will probably have to 'live' with this condition which is more a nusiance then anything else. They go on to say this condition will not harm the engine. Are they right with their answer or can something actually be done to fix this problem? Other than this the car runs great. It has been tuned up, all belts and hoses replaced, new thermostat, etc.
Also, when we turn on the ignition, the engine would race at 2,000 rpm until we let it warm up and then put it in gear at 1000 rpm. A new thermostat keep the idle from going so fast when we start the car. Is the fast idle normal for this age of a car or could something be done for this also.
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My wife's car is making a odd sound. I think it may be the timing belt. Her car is a 1999 Olds Cutlass v6 and I don't know if it has ever had its timing belt replaced. I can't tell from her records. So what kind of a timing belt does this vehicle have? How many miles before it should be replaced? The last question is, if she keeps on driving it, what it the worst thing that can happen?
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How do I replace the computer in the 93 cutlass ciera, 3.3 engine 6 cylinder,.I see the computer is behind the glove box..but a very tight spot.
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I have a 1992 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera 6 cyl.The car starts up and runs with no problem. However every two to three weeks while I'm driving the motor will just die on me. It doesn't matter where I am or the speed I'm driving it will stall. It takes about a minute and the car starts again, but I need to get this fixed!! My mechanic says it isn't the fuel pump, fuel filter or the crank sensor. He is a good mechanic too.
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i have 1992 v6 olds cutlass ciera. it likes to spit and sputter sometimes. no matter if it's hot or cold, up a hill or on flat, slow or stop?
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I have a 1992 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera 6 cyl. This car just all of a sudden started shuttering and not wanting to take off. It will if I floor it but will still shutter a little?
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What is the computer location on the 93 cutlass Ciera S 3.3 6 cylinder?
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I have a 64 Olds Cutlass. I drive it once a week or so. That means it sits most of the time. Lately it's been very damp and rainy. I've noticed that when I start the Olds up there is white smoke coming from the exhaust. This lasts about a minute or until the car warms up and I start driving. Then it disappears. Is this just condensation burning off or, I hope not, a blown head gasket? How can I tell the difference?
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I have a 1967 Cutlass. She ran great yesterday. Today she won't start. I have spark coming out of the coil but no spark going to the plugs. Plugs and plug wires test good as well.
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My car won't stay running. We've replaced the spark plugs, the air and fuel filter, the idle air control and beat on the catalytic converter (I know it's bad but it did make a difference).
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